i;x   LIRRIS 


SAN    C.ARI.OS      17(><> 


ROBERT  ERNEST  COWAN 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON 


William  Clayton's  Journal 


A  Daily  Record  of  the  Journey  of  the  Original 
Company  of  "Mormon"  Pioneers  from 
Nauvoo,  Illinois,  to  the  Valley 
of  the  Great  Salt  Lake  • 


PUBLISHED  BY  THE 
CLAYTON  FAMILY  ASSOCIATION 


SALT  LAKE  CITY,  UTAH: 
THE  DESERET  NEWS 

1921 


Copyright,  1921 

by 

Lawrence  Clayton 
Trustee  for  the 
Clayton  Family  Association 

All   rights   reserved 


Foreword 

William  Clayton  was  one  of  the  remarkable  char- 
acters  of  early    Utah   history.      Born  in  the   county   of 
Lancashire,  England,  July  17,  1814,  he  was  educated  in 
one  of  the  schools  of  his  native  town,  and  grew  to  man- 
hood with  a  love  for  books  and  nature.   An  early  convert 
of  the  Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of  Latter-day  Saints,  he 
conducted  one  of  the  first  companies  from  England  to 
Xattvoo,  and  there  became  one  of  the  trusted  secretaries 
of  the   Prophet  Joseph   Smith.     With  the  exodn<-   f'-om 
Xauvoo,  he  was  Clerk  of  the  Camp  of  Israel,  and  when 
the  Mormon  pioneers  left  Winter  Quarters  in  April,  18-1-7, 
g»  he  was  appointed  by  Brigham  Young  one  of  the  historians 
~^_of  that  noted  company.     His  journal  of  that  memorable 
=  expedition  over  the  plains  is  one  of  the  most  valuable 
o  diaries  we  have  of  that  early  period  of  western  history. 

J  He  kept  careful  account  of  the  distances  traveled  each 

_ 

gj  day,  and  :his  writings  are  full  of  descriptions  of  the  coun- 
ts try  over  which  they  traveled.  He  has  noted  the  topo- 
graphy, the  fauna  and  flora  of  the  trail ;  and  his  descrip- 
tions of  the  activities  of  the  company  indicate  a  well 
trained  intellect  in  social  study.  His  language  is  simple 
and  direct,  and  his  care  in  keeping  each  day's  distance 
and  important  facts  of  the  journey  show  order  and 
method. 

His  hymn,  "Come,  come,  ye  Saints"  takes  its  place  as 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  hymns  of  western  history,  for  it 
is  full  of  joy  fulness,  and  expresses  an  optimism  and  faith 


iv  FOREWARD 

in  God  that  will  always  be  an  inspiration  to  the  one  who 
sings  it.  It  indicates  that  William  Clayton  had  much  of 
the  artistic  in  him,  although  we  do  know  that  he  took  a 
virile  part  in  the  activities  of  life. 

His  journal  should  be  read  by  all  people  who  are  in- 
terested in  the  west's  development.  It  is  certainly  one  of 
the  distinct  contributions  of  that  early  day,  and  shows 
that  -a  man  of  strength  of  character  wrote  it.  It  will  in- 
spire many  people  to  a  greater  love  and  regard  for  the 
work  of  the  pioneers  of  Utah. 

LEVI  EDGAR  YOUNG. 
Salt  Lake  City,  Utah,  April,  1921 


William  Clayton 

Born  in  England,  1814;  died  in  Utah,  1879 

The  Claytons  of  England  originally  came  from 
France.  During  the  time  when  William  the  Conqueror 
and  King  Harold  were  quarreling,  a  call  came  from  the 
former  for  volunteers  among  his  chieftains  to  go  to  war. 
A  man  named  Robert  was  among  those  who  responded. 
Robert  was  skilled  in  arms. 

After  the  Battle  of  Hastings  in  1066,  in  which  Rob- 
bert  rendered  heroic  service,  William  the  Conqueror  con- 
ferred upon  him  the  English  Manor  of  Clayton  as  a  mark 
of  merit.  Robert  was  afterwards  known  as  Robert  de 
Clayton  and  Lord  of  the  Manor  of  Clayton.  From  Lord 
Robert  Clayton  came  all  the  Claytons  of  England  and 
America  and  by  genealogical  research,  the  line  has  been 
brought  down  to  the  subject  of  this  sketch. 

William  Clayton  was  born  July  17,  1814,  in  the  vil- 
lage of  Charock  Moss,  Township  of  Penwortham, 
County  Palatine  of  Lancaster,  England.  He  was  the  son 
of  Thomas  and  Ann  Critchley  Clayton,  who  were  born 
in  Lancashire,  England.  William  was  the  eldest  of 
fourteen  children.  Three  of  these  children  died  in  in- 
fancy and  were  buried  in  England  Through  the  influ- 
ence of  the  eldest  son,  the  father,  mother  and  surviving 
children  joined  the  Church  of  Jesus  Christ  of  Latter-day 
Saints  and  came  to  America.  The  mother  died  in 
Nauvoo,  Illinois,  July  15,  1848,  and  the  father  in  St. 
Louis,  Missouri,  June  16,  1849.  A  brother  James  died  in 


vi  WILLIAM  CLAYTON 

Winter  Quarters,  November  28,  1847.  The  remainder 
of  his  brothers  and  sisters  survived  the  persecutions  of 
mobs  and  the  early  privations  of  the  Church  and  came  to 
the  valley  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake  with  the  pioneers  of 
Utah. 

William  Clayton  first  heard  the  Gospel  preached  in 
England  by  Heber  C.  Kimball  and  Orson  Hyde.  With 
his  wife,  Ruth  Moon  Clayton,  whom  he  married  in  Eng- 
land, October  9,  1836,  he  listened  to  the  teachings  of 
these  missionaries,  but  he  was  not  easy  to  convert.  His 
wife  received  the  Gospel  first,  and  many  evenings  had 
to  be  spent  before  William  Clayton  became  a  believer  in 
"Mormonism."  He  was  ordained  a  Priest  December  25, 
1837,  and  a  High  Priest,  April  1,  1838,  at  which  time 
he  was  appointed  with  Willard  Richards,  Counselor  to 
Joseph  Fielding  who  presided  over  the  Church  in  Europe. 

September  8,  1840,  he  left  England  in  the  packet  ship 
North  America,  arriving  in  New  York,  October  11,  1840, 
and  in  Nauvoo  November  24,  1840.  In  this  city,  he 
became  a  trusted  friend  of  the  founders  of  the  Church. 
so  much  so  that  on  February  10,  1842,  he  was  appointed 
secretary  to  Joseph  Smith  the  Prophet.  October  7,  1842, 
he  became  Temple  Recorder  and  Recorder  of  Revela- 
tions. In  1842,  he  became  Tresaurer  of  the  City  of 
Nauvoo.  These  appointments  are  indicative  of  the  zeal 
with  which  William  Clayton  served  the  Church  through- 
out his  life. 

What  of  the  personal  characteristics  of  our  subject? 
As  will  appear  from  his  portrait  on  the  frontispiece,  Wil- 
liam Clayton  did  not  tend  to  frivolity  or  mirth  but  rather 
to  seriousness  and  earnestness.  Yet  he  was  witty  and 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON  vii 

had  a  keen  sense  of  humor.  In  the  home  he  was  not 
demonstrative ;  although  he  had  great  love  for  his  home 
and  family  and  provided  well  for  their  comfort.  He  was 
methodical,  always  sitting  in  his  own  arm  chair,  having 
a  certain  place  at  the  table  and  otherwise  showing  his 
love  for  order,  which  he  believed  the  first  law  of  heaven. 
His  person  was  clean  and  tidy ;  his  hands  small  and  dimp- 
led. He  wore  very  little  jewelry  but  what  little  he  had 
was  the  best  money  could  buy.  He  would  not  carry  a 
watch  that  was  not  accurate,  and  his  clothing  was  made 
from  the  best  material.  His  children  remember  him  best 
in  black  velvet  coat  and  grey  trousers  and,  in  cold 
weather,  a  broad-cloth  cloak  in  place  of  overcoat. 

The  man-timber  in  William  Clayton  came  from 
sturdy  trees.  His  character  was  above  all  littleness.  He 
believed  that  what  was  good  for  him  was  good  for  all 
men,  and  that  the  measurement  of  our  lives  was  based 
upon  our  daily  conduct  towards  each  other.  To  him  that 
was  God's  standard.  He  believed  in  perfect  equity  in 
the  adjustment  of  the  affairs  of  life.  Had  he  loved  money, 
he  could  probably  have  had  it  because  of  his  education, 
and  executive  ability.  But  he  cared  little  for  material 
gain,  centering  his  zeal  in  the  pursuit  of  honor  and  right. 

William  Clayton  was  honest  and  nothing  to  him 
could  justify  an  untruth.  He  deplored  waste  or  extrava- 
gance, yet  he  never  withheld  from  a  neighbor  in  distress, 
or  from  the  widow  or  orphan.  Many  are  those  who  knew 
his  generosity.  When  his  harvest  was  gathered,  bushels 
of  grain  and  fruit  found  place  among  those  of  scanty 
store.  And  many  pairs  of  shoes  and  much  warm  cloth- 
ing were  given  to  comfort  the  needy.  Nor  was  the  home- 


viii  WILLIAM  CLAYTON 

less  forgotten,  but  the  orphan  was  given  a  home  and  joy 
by  his  own  fireside. 

His  religion  was  deeply  rooted  and  nurtured  by  as- 
sociation with  and  testimony  of  an  eye  witness  to  the  liv- 
ing God.  His  love  for  Joseph  Smith  was  love  seldom 
shown  in  man  for  man.  Few  men  possessed  stronger 
faith  and  courage.  These  qualities  alone  could  inspire 
a  man  under  heart-rendering  circumstances,  to  write 
such  hymns  of  faith  and  comfort  as  "Come,  come,  ye 
Saints,"  and  "The  Resurrection  Day." 

The  record  of  William  Clayton  in  Utah  kept  pace 
with  that  of  previous  years.  His  home  was  open  al- 
ways to  his  friends  who  loved  to  gather  there  for  social 
hours.  Civic  welfare  always  interested  him.  He  was 
a  musician  and  played  in  the  pioneer  orchestra  and  that 
of  the  Salt  Lake  Theatre.  He  was  a  lover  of  community 
features  and  took  part  in  dramatic  functions. 

He  was  treasurer  of  Zion's  Cooperative  Mercantile 
Institution,  Recorder  of  Marks  and  Brands,  Receiver  of 
Weights  and  Measures,  and  was  Territorial  Auditor.  His 
love  for  education  prompted  many  sacrifices  and  he  tried 
hard  to  give  his  children  the  essentials  of  good  school- 
ing- 
He  had  a  strong  will,  although  a  tender  conscience. 
Cowardice  had  no  place  in  him.  Truly  he  could  say,  "My 
heart  is  fixed.  I  know  in  whom  I  trust."  Joseph  Smith 
believed  that  they  should  meet  and  associate  in  the  Ce- 
lestial Kingdom  of  God  as  they  had  here. 

William  Clayton  died  December  4,  1879,  in  Salt  Lake 
City.  Services  were  held  in  the  Seventeenth  Ward 
Chapel  at  which  his  own  funeral  hymn  was  sung.  He 

left  a  large  posterity. 

VICTORIA  C.  McCuNE, 

Salt  Lake  City,  Utah,  June,  1921 


Editor's  Note 

The  descendants  of  \Yilliam  Clayton  have  in  "recent 
years  formed  themselves  into  an  organization  known'  as 
the  "Clayton  Family  Association."  This  book  is  offered 
to  the  public  by  the  Asociation  with  the  thought  that  a 
document  of  such  faithful  description  and  fine  spirit 
would  be  welcomed  by  all  people  who  might  be  interested 
either  in  the  Pioneer  Period  of  Western  History  or  more 
particularly  in  the  exodus  of  the  "Mormon"  people  from 
Missouri  to  the  valley  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake.  It  is  dif- 
ficult to  understand  why  the  "Journal"  was  not  published 
years  ago  and  it  seems  to  require  somewhat  of  an  apology 
that  this  interesting  record  should  have  remained  so  long- 
unknown  and  be  now  brought  out  with  considerable  haste. 
In  the  effort  to  have  it  ready  for  distribution  to  the 
members  of  the  Clayton  Family  Association  on  the  anni- 
versary of  the  birth  of  their  forefather  on  July  17th,  there 
has  been  a  sacrifice  of  care  and  deliberation  in  the  prepar- 
ation of  this  first  edition  which  is  hoped  the  reader  will 
overlook  upon  consideration  of  the  facts.  This  lack 
of  time  and  care  will  show  itself  more  in  the  text  than 
in  any  other  particular.  Much  of  the  proof  reading  was 
done  by  the  undersigned  on  board  train  between  Salt 
Lake  Lnd  California.  To  say  the  least,  such  surroundings 
are  not  conducive  to  the  most  finished  work.  It  is  hoped 
that  this  circumstance  will  also  make  the  reader  more 
tolerant  when  encountering  mistakes  in  the  text,  ob- 
viously the  result  of  hasty  proof  reading.  At  a  later  date 


x  EDITOR'S  NOTE 

a  second  edition  will  do  better  justice  to  the  author  of  the 
"Journal"  and  will  show  more  consideration  for  the  fine 
taste  of  the  reader. 

LAWRENCE  CLAYTON. 
Salt  Lake  City,  Utah,  June,  1921. 


William  Clayton's  Journal. 


NAUVOO,  ILLINOIS. 

SUNDAY,  FEBRUARY  8,  1846.  At  the  office  all  day 
packing  public  goods,  evening  at  Farr's  writing  out  a 
letter  of  instruction  to  trustees. 

MONDAY,  QTH.  At  the  office  packing.  At  3:30  the 
temple  was  seen  on  fire.  Women  carrying  water. 

TUESDAY,  lOra.  At  the  temple  packing,  also  Wed- 
nesday llth. 

THURSDAY,  12TH.     At  home  preparing  to  move. 

FRIDAY,  13xH.  Sent  four  loads  of  goods  over  the 
river.  Loading  and  packing. 

SATURDAY,   14TH.     Packing  and  seeking  letters. 

SUNDAY,  15xH.  Riding  around  to  get  teams  and 
things  together.  Sent  two  teams  over  the  river. 

MONDAY,  16TH.  Still  loading  teams,  also  Tuesday 
17th. 

WEDNESDAY,  18TH.  Got  about  ready  to  go  over  the 
river.  Evening  President  Brigham  Young,  Heber  C. 
Kimball,  J.  M.  Grant  and  some  of  the  pioneers  came  to 
hurry  us  over.  N.  K.  Whitney  also  came  in.  We 
conversed  together  some.  They  .state  the  brethren  have 
made  a  perfect  waste  of  food  and  property  in  the  camp. 

THURSDAY,  19TH.  This  morning  the  ground  is 
covered  with  snow.  It  is  so  win-dy  they  cannot  cross 
the  river.  Continued  to  snow  all  day.  Evening  went 
2 


2  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

to  Elder  Babbit's  to  supper  with  Elder  Kimball.  Presi- 
dent Young-  was  there,  Backenstos,  J.  M.  Grant  and 
some  others. 

FRIDAY,  20rn.  The  weather  is  very  cold  and  windy. 
Impossible  to  cross  the  river.  Spent  the  day  running 
after  things  to  get  ready,  fixing  wagons  and  chopping 
fire  wood. 

FRIDAY,  27xn.  We  have  spent  the  past  week  wait- 
ing for  crossing  over  the  river.*  It  has  been  hard  frost 
and  much  snow.  .  This  morning  I  concluded  to  start 
over  the  river  and  began  early  to  send  my  teams.  About 
noon  I  crossed  with  my  family  and  then  rested  the  teams 
and  soon  after  went  on  to  the  camp  where  we  arrived 
a  little  before  four  o'clock.  Bishop  Whitney  concluded 
to  .stay  at  the  river  until  morning  because  some  of  his 
teams  could  not  get  over.  When  we  got  to  the  camp 
we  were  received  with  joy  and  formed  in  the  company  of 
the  band.  The  weather  is  still  very  cold  especially  during 
the  night.  The  distance  from  Xauvoo  to  this  place  is 
called  seven  and  a  half  miles. 

SATURDAY,  28rn.  A.  M.  arranging  my  tents,  etc. 
At  twelve  was  sent  for  to  council  and  about  two  the 
band  was  requested  to  go  and  meet  bishop  Whitney  and 
his  teams.  Wre  went  and  met  him  five  miles  from  the 
camp.  We  played  some  time  and  then  returned  to  the 
camp.  President  Young.  Heber  C.  Kimball,  P.  P.  Pratt, 
Orson  Pratt  ami  others  accompanied  us.  At  night 
played  with  the  band. 

SUNDAY,  MARCH  1,  1846.  A.  M.  preparing  to  march 
to  the  next  encampment.  At  ten  a  lecture  was  given 
by  Elder  Kimball  and  about  one  the  company  proceeded 

Mississippi. 


W-ILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  3 

to  the  next  camp  about  four  and  a  half  miles,  where  we 
arrived  in  good  season. 

MONDAY,  2ND.  Started  this  morning  for  another 
camp  about  eight  miles  where  we  arrived  about  five  P. 
M.,  the  roads  being  somewhat  hilly  and  muddy.  The 
band  played  at  night.  During  the  day  the  artillery  com- 
pany broke  into  our  ranks  several  times  and  broke  a 
number  of  our  wagon  boxes.  At  night  they  complained 
of  us  at  headquarters,  but  after  hearing  our  story  the 
matter  stood  about  right. 

TUESDAY,  3RD.  Proceeded  on  our  journey  through 
Farmington  about  eight  miles  to  a  place  where  bishop 
Miller  was  encamped  and  arrived  in  good  season.  The 
band  played  at  night. 

WEDNESDAY,  4TH.  This  morning  we  concluded  to 
stay  a  day  and  fix  up  some  wagons  which  were  broken. 
A  number  of  the  citizens  from  Farmington  came  to  the 
camp  and  gave  a  very  pressing  invitation  for  the  band  to 
go  to  Farmington  and  play  some.  Accordingly  about 
three  o'clock,  the  band  started  and  arrived  at  Farming- 
ton  about  4:30  p.  m.  We  played  at  the  principal  hotel 
and  then  went  to  the  school  house  and  played  till  nearly 
dark.  The  house  was  filled  with  men  an-d  women,  the 
leading  people  of  the  place.  We  then  retruned  to  the  hotel 
where  they  had  provided  us  with  a  good  supper.  They 
also  gave  us  $5  in  money.  Kay*  sang  a  number  of  songs. 
At  eight  o'clock  we  returned  and  when  we  left  they  gave 
us  three  cheers.  When  we  arrived  at  the  camp  we  mec 
thirty  of  the  guard  just  starting  out  to  meet  us.  The 
President  felt  uneasy  at  our  staying  so  long  and  was 
sending  the  men  to  protect  us. 

*John   Kay. 


4  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

THURSDAY,  STH.  Proceeded  on  our  journey. 
Grassed  the  Des  Moines  river  at  Bonaparte  and  after- 
wards had  a  very  bad  road  up  the  bluff  for  several  miles 
which  detained  us  until  late  in  the  afternoon.  We  stopped 
awhile  to  feed  the  band  teams  inasmuch  as  they  had  none 
this  morning".  We  then  started  and  went  to  the  next 
camping  ground,  making  the  day's  journey  about  six- 
teen miles. 

SATURDAY,  7xH.  Proceeded  about  eight  miles  to  a 
camp  ground  near  to  a  Dr.  Elberts  where  the  band 
camped.  President  Young  was  behind  and  when  he  ar- 
rived he  went  on  about  eight  miles  farther.  The  band 
went  to  work  splitting  rails  for  corn  and  made  before 
dark,  about  130.  In  the  evening-  Dr.  Elbert  and  some 
others  came  to  hear  the  band  play.  Kay  sang-  some 
songs  which  pleased  them. 

SUNDAY,  STH.  Waited  for  orders  from  headquart- 
ers. Many  of  the  citizens  came  to  hear  the  band  play 
and  gave  us  a  very  pressing  invitation  to  go  to  Keo- 
saugua  and  give  a  concert.  About  noon  word  came  th.it 
we  should  follow  on  to  the  camp.  We  immediately 
struck  tents  and  started  and  we  arrived  at  the  main  can*]) 
about  five  o'clock.  Some  of  the  citizens  from  Keo- 
saugua  followed  us  waiting  for  an  answer  whether  we 
would  give  a  concert  as  soon  as  we  arrived  at  the  camp. 
I  asked  the  President  whether  the  band  should  go  to 
Keasaugua  to  give  a  concert.  He  advised  us  to  go  and 
I  immediately  sent  out  the  appointment  and  then  we 
pitched  our  tents  forming  a  line  on  the  road  opposite 
to  the  President's  company. 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  5 

MONDAY,  9xH.     Spent  the  day  chiefly  preparing  for 
the  concert  and  attending  on  my  family. 

TUESDAY,   lOra.     The  weather  still  continues  fine. 
Spent  the  morning  preparing  for  the  concert  and  abouc 
one  o'clock  p.  m.  started  in  company  with  the  brass  band 
for  Keosaugua.     I  rode  in  Elder  Kimball's  wagon  with 
William  Kimball,  J.  Smithies  and  Wm.  Pitt.     The  dis- 
tance from  the  camp  to  Keosaugua  is  about  ten  miles, 
the  camp  being  at  a  place  called  Richardson's  point.    We 
arrived  at  Keosaugua  about  three  o'clock  and  being  re- 
quested we  went  through  the  town  and  played  some.  One 
of  the  grocery    keepers  invited  us  to  play    him  a  tune 
which  we  did.    He  then  invited  us  in  and  offered  to  treat 
us  to  anything  he  had.  We  each  took  a  little  and  then 
the  next  grocery  keeper  sent  an  invitation  for  us  to  play 
him  a  tune.    We  did  so  and  he  also  gave  us  anything  he 
had.    A  beer  keeper  next  .sent  word  that  he  did  not  want 
us  to  slight  him  and  we  went  and  played  him  a  tune  and 
then  took  some  of  his  cake  and  beer.  We  then  marched  up 
to  the  Des  Moines  hotel  near  the  court-house  where  we 
had  ordered  supper  and  after  eating  we  went  to  the  court- 
house to  prepare  for  the  concert.     At  seven  o'clock  the 
house  was  crowded  and  we  commenced,  playing  and  sing- 
ing till  about  9 :30.    The  audience  seemed  highly  pleased 
and  gave  loud  applause.     About  the  close  one  of  the 
citizens  got  up  and  said  it  was  the  wish  of  many  that 
we  should  repeat  the  concert  the  following  evening  and 
he  took  a  vote  of  all  who  wished  us  to  go  again.     The 
vote  was  unanimous.    We  made  nearly  $25.00  clear  of  all 
expenses.    We  .started  back  for  the  camp  soon  after  ten 
and  arrived  about  one  o'clock  all  well  and  pleased. 


6  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

WEDNESDAY,  HTH.  In  the  morning"  I  reported  to 
President  Young  our  success  and  the  request  of  the  citi- 
zens of  Keosaugua  and  he  advised  us  to  go  again.  We 
accordingly  started  about  eleven  o'clock.  I  again  rode 
with  William  Kimball,  Horace  Whitney  and  James 
Smithies.  When  we  arrived  we  were  welcomed  again 
with  the  same  kind  feelings  as  yesterday.  Pitt  had  a 
severe  chill  all  the  way  and  when  we  got  there  it  com- 
menced raining'  and  made  it  very  unpleasant.  The 
house  was  again  filled  but  we  only  made  $20.00  besides  all 
expenses.  We  learned  that  there  is  a  party  of  socialists 
there  and  they  and  the  priests  are  much  opposed  to  each 
other.  We  also  learned  that  a  man  named  McCully  was 
in  jail  close  by  under  sentence  to  be  hung  on  the  4th  of 
April  for  murdering  a  man  and  a  child.  I  did  not  feel 
so  well  at  the  concert  as  on  the  night  previous  on  sev- 
eral accounts.  We  started  back  between  eleven  and 
twelve  and  got  to  the  camp  about  three  o'clock. 

THURSDAY,  12xn.  The  band  moved  to  better  ground 
about  one  quarter  of  a  mile  farther.  The  heavy  rains 
had  made  it  very  muddy  and  unpleasant,  all  our  bedding 
and  things  being  wet. 

FRIDAY,  13xn.     Went  hunting. 

SATURDAY,  14xn.     Wrote  a  letter  to  Diaritha. 

SUNDAY,  15xn.     In  camp  all  day. 

MONDAY,  16xn.  Some  of  the  citizens  of  Keosaugua 
came  again  to  request  us  to  give  another  concert.  We 
agreed  to  go  tomorrow  evening. 

TUESDAY,  17xn.  Started  for  Keosugua  with  Pitt, 
Hutchinson,  Kay,  Smithies  and  Egan.  I  took  my  music 
box  and  china  to  try  and  sell  them.  We  arrived  in  good 


WILLIAM.  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  7 

season  and  soon  learned  that  the  priests  had  been  hard 
at  work  preventing  the  sectarians  from  coming  to  the 
concert,  saying  that  it  was  an  infidel  move  consequently 
there  \vcre  not  many  present.  We  had  far  the  best  con- 
cert which  lasted  till  nine  o'clock.  We  then  went  over 
to  the  hotel,  took  supper  and  played  for  a  private  party  till 
about  three  o'clock.  We  only  cleared  from  both,  about 
S7.00  over  expenses  but  were  well  treated. 

WKDNKSDAY.  18TH.  It  rained  last  night  and  this 
morning  again  and  we  almost  concluded  to  go  to  Fair- 
field,  but  finally  determined  to  return  to  camp.  We  visited 
with  a  Mr.  Bridgman  who  treated  us  very  kindly.  Bought 
about  eight  bushels  of  beans  and  some  articles  for  Presi- 
dent Young  and  then  returned  to  camp.  It  rained  some 
again  today.  We  got  back  about  five  o'clock.  After  dark 
Dr.  Elbcrt  came  to  see  my  china  and  said  if  I  would  take 
it  over  tomorrow  he  would  buy  it. 

THURSDAY.  19Tii.  Went  to  ask  council  whether  i 
should  go  to  sell  my  china.  Saw  Heber  who  advised  me 
to  go.  A  few  of  us  started  and  soon  met  President 
Young  who  said  we  had  better  go  back  and  go  with  the 
camp  who  were  then  starting  on  their  way.  We  accord- 
ingly turned  back  our  horses  and  struck  tents  in  a  hurry. 
At  twelve  o'clock  we  started  on  our  journey.  After  travel- 
ing about  six  or  seven  miles  we  had  to  go  up  a  very  bad 
bluff  which  took  us  till  five  o'clock.  President  Young's 
company  went  ahead  of  us  and  camped  three  miles  from 
the  bluff.  Some  of  our  teams  gave  out  and  we  only  went 
about  a  mile  from  the  bluff  and  camped  in  a  little  point  of 
timber  a  little  from  the  road.  Our  teams  were  very  tired. 

SATURDAY,  21  ST.     We  started  early  in  the  morning 


8  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

and  soon  came  up  with  the  main  body  of  the  camp.  1 
rode  ahead  about  three  miles  to  hunt  my  cow.  We  did  not 
have  her  last  night  being"  with  the  main  camp.  We  trav- 
eled nine  or  ten  miles  and  then  rested  our  teams.  We 
started  again  and  traveled  three  miles  farther  where  we 
found  the  President  and  Heber  camped  on  the  brink  of 
a  long  bluff.  We  concluded  to  go  to  the  other  bank  which 
we  did  and  camped  in  a  good"  place.  In  the  evening  the 
band  went  and  played  for  the  President  and  Heber  and 
then  went  to  a  farmer's  house  at  the  owner's  request  about 
three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  camp  to  play  for  his  fam- 
ily. He  promised  to  give  us  some  honey  if  we  woukl  play 
for  him.  We  played  about  an  hour  and  then  left  but 
neither  saw  nor  heard  anything  of  the  honey.  We  learned 
afterwards,  however,  that  Hutchinson  had  a  pail  under 
his  cloak  and  got  it  full  of  honey  after  the  rest  had  left  the 
house  and  kept  it  to  himself,  very  slyly. 

SUNDAY,  22ND.  Started  again  and  soon  came  to  the 
Shariton  bottoms  which  is  a  very  low  land  for  about  four 
miles.  The.  road  was  bad  and  it  took  us  sometime  to 
crass.  While  on  the  bottom  Root  and  Davis  came  again. 
Root  had  asked  permission  of  President  Young  to  go 
back  to  his  family  some  days  ago  but  it  seems  things  did 
not  go  to  suit  him  and  he  followed  his  team  again.  It  took 
sometime  to  go  up  the  bluff.  We  had  to  let  the  teams 
down  into  the  Shariton  river  by  ropes  and  also  helped 
them  up  again  by  the  same  means.  Our  company  got 
over  in  good  season  but  we  concluded  to  camp  after  get- 
ting up  the  bluff  as  it  would  take  till  night  for  the  whole 
to  get  up.  I  spent  the  day  helping  the  teams  till  I  was 
so  sore  and  tired  I  could  scarcely  walk. 


WILLIAM   CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  9 

MONDAY,  23RD.  In  council  with  Brigham,  Heber, 
and  others.  We  found  that  Miller's  company  had  gone 
still  farther  about  eight  miles  instead  of  waiting  till  we 
overtook  them  so  that  we  could  organize.  I  wrote  a  let- 
ter to  them  saying  if  they  did  not  wait  or  return  to  or- 
ganize, the  camp  would  organize  without  and  they  be  dis- 
fellowshiped.  We  concluded  to  stay  at  this  place  a 
few  days  to  buy  corn  to  last  to  Grand  river  but  we  found 
corn  scarce  and  26c  a  bushel,  the  farmers  having  ad- 
vanced on  account  of  a  disposition  to  speculate. 

TUESDAY,  24xn  and  WEDNESDAY,  25xn.  At  the 
camp  writing,  etc.  It  rained  considerably. 

THURSDAY,  26xH.  Evening  in  council.  Wrote  a 
long  letter  to  be  sent  to  Emmet's  company  by  John  But- 
ler and  James  W.  Cummings.  This  morning  wrote  an- 
other letter  to  P.  P.  Pratt,  Orson  Pratt,  George  Miller 
telling  them  they  must  wait  for  us  or  come  back  to  organ- 
ize. The  letters  were  sent  by  Smithies.  He  met  them  on 
the  way  and  about  noon  P.  P.  Pratt,  Orson  Pratt,  John 
Kay  and  G.  Miller  came  into  camp  and  at  1.00  P.  M.  the 
council  met.  The  brethren  plead  that  the  charges  in  the 
letters  were  unjust.  They  had  not  striven  to  keep  out  of 
the  way  but  had  done  all  for  the  best.  The  whole  camp 
accordingly  was  organized,  A.  P.  Rockwood  over  1st  50; 
Stephen  Markham,  2nd  50;  Young,  3rd  50;  Howard  E. 
Kimball,  4th  50;  Charles  C.  Rich,  5th  50;  Charles  Cris- 
man,  6th  50.  Each  fifty  had  also  appointed  a  contracting 
commissary  for  the  purpose  of  contracting  for  work  and 
grain  as  follows:  Henry  Sherwood  1st  50;  David  H. 
Kimball  2nd ;  Wm.  H.  Edwards  3rd ;  Peter  Haws  4th ; 
Joseph  Worthen  5th ;  Samuel  Gully  6th.  It  was  under- 


10  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

stood  that  I  continue  to  .preside  over  the  band  and  in  the 
absence  of  Brother  Haws  over  the  whole  fifty.  After  this 
there  was  appointed  for  each  fifty  a  distributing-  commis- 
sary to  distribute  feed  in  camp  as  follows :  Charles  Ken- 
nedy for  1st  50;  J.  M.  Grant  2nd  50;  Nathan  Tanner  3rd 
50;  Orson  B.  Adams  4th  50;  James  Allred  5th  50;  Isaac 
Allred  6th  50.  The  brethren  then  gave  the  following  in- 
structions for  the  whole  camp  with  orders  that  same  be 
observed  hereafter,  viz.  No  man  to,  set  fire  to  prairies.  No 
man  to  shoot  off  a  gun  in  camp  without  orders.  No  man 
to  go  hunting  unless  he  is  sent  and  all  to  keep  guns, 
swords  and  pistols  out  of  sight.  There  was  then  appointed 
a  clerk  for  each  fifty  as  follows :  John  D.  Lee  Young,  1st 
50;  John  Pack  2nd  50;  Lorenzo  Snow  3rd  50;  Geo.  H. 
Hales  4th  50;  John  Oakley  5th  50;  A.  Lathrop  6th  50. 
The  council  then  adjourned  to  meet  at  Shariton  Ford 
camp  on  Monday  at  10  A.  M.  We  then  returned  to  our 
camp  where  we  arrived  just  at  dark. 

SATURDAY,  28xH.  In  camp  making  out  forms  for 
clerks  of  50's  and  also  copied  letter  to  James  Emmet. 

SUNDAY,  29rn.  Making  forms  for  clerks  of  50's 
and  felt  quite  unwell  all  -day  with  bad  cold. 

MONDAY,  30rn.  Met  with  the  council.  The  guard 
and  pioneers  were  divided  and  distributed  amongst  the 
several  companies  of  50's.  It  was  also  agreed  that  com- 
pany No.  4  should  go  on  to  the  next  camp  tomorrow  and 
the  remainder  of  the  day  following.  Jackson  Redding 
sold  one  of  Keller's  horses  for  one  yoke  of  oxen,  leaving 
me  as  bad  off  for  teams  as  before. 

TUESDAY,  31  ST.  It  was  concluded  we  could  not  get 
ready  to  move  until  tomorrow.  O.  P.  Rockwell  arrived 


WILLIAM'  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  11 

(vith  the  mail.  I  received  a  letter  from  Diantha  and 
father.  President  Young  received  one  from  the  trustees, 
one  from  Matlock  and  one  from  E.  Pratt  which  I  read  in 
council.  I  was  ordered  to  write  an  answer  to  the  trustees' 
and  Matlock's  letter,  but  being-  late  I  left  it  till  morning 
when  I  was  quite  unwell.  I  got  two  new  teamsters,  Levi 
Kendall  and  Swap. 

WEDXKSDAY,  APRIL  IST.  President  Young  also  sent 
me  two  yoke  of  oxen,  wagon,  and  Brother  Jones,  the 
owner,  to  assist  me.  We  divided  the  load  out  of  the  spare 
wagons  putting  a  yoke  of  oxen  to  each  and  about  1 1 :00 
o'clock  started  on  our  journey.  Mother  was  very  sick, 
and  could  not  bear  to  ride.  She  walked  all  the  way.  I 
felt  very  unwell  myself,  having  much  pain  in  my  limbs. 
The  roads  were  bad,  but  we  arrived  in  camp  about  2:00 
o'clock  and  got  on  good  ground.  After  getting  our  tents 
fixed,  fires  made,  etc.,  I  went  to  wrestling,  jumping  etc., 
to  try  to  get  well.  I  over-exerted  myself  without  any 
symptons  of  perspiration  and  was  so  sick  after  I  had  to 
go  to  bed. 

THURSDAY.  2xo.  I  was  very  sick  all  day  and  un- 
able to  write  the  letters  or  meet  with  the  council.  O.  P. 
Rockwell  started  back  to  Nauvoo  with  letters.  One  of 
the  Brother  Hales  arrived  to  say  to  his  brother  who  drives 
team  for  Pitt  that  his  family  is  very  sick  and  wants  him 
to  go  back  but  we  cannot  spare  the  team  and  he  says  it  is 
no  use  for  him  to  go  back  without  it.  At  night  I  wrote 
again  to  Diantha  and  sent  it  by  Brother  Hale  who  returns 
tomorrow. 

FRIDAY,  3RD.  This  morning  it  was  decided  to  start 
early  so  as  to  get  over  the  bad  roads  and  also  travel  about 


\ 


12  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

fifteen  miles.  We  had  to  send  a  wagon  and  team  to  fetch 
the  eight  bushels  of  corn  which  some  of  the  band  earned 
by  playing  last  night.  We  started,  however,  about  eight 
o'clock.  The  roads  were  very  bad  and  when  we  had  trav- 
eled about  three  miles  it  began  to  thunder  and  rain.  The 
clouds  gathered  fast  and  it  soon  showed  signs  for  heavy 
rain  the  whole  day.  We  reached  Bishop  Whitney's  camp 
about  noon  and  rested  our  teams  while  the  rest  came  up. 
We  then  started  again  in  the  heavy  rain  and  bad  roads  and 
traveled  about  three  miles  to  Bishop  Miller's  camp.  We 
had  a  very  bad  bluff  to  rise  and  had  to  double  teams  to  get 
up.  On  the  top  I  met  Heber  camped.  He  selected  a 
camping  ground  for  us  and  advised  us  to  go  no  farther. 
President  Young  has  gone  on  six  or  seven  miles.  It  was 
about  5 :00  o'clock  before  all  our  teams  got  up  and  it 
rained  heavily  all  the  time.  Mother  walked  all  day  again 
in  the  rain.  I  was  very  sick  myself  and  unable  to  do  any- 
thing. Yesterday  the  portion  of  the  guard  detailed  to  our 
company  joined  in  with  us,  being  Orvil  M.  Allen  and 
eight  men.  They  reported  themselves  destitute  of  every- 
thing and  said  they  had  lived  a  week  on  corn  meal  gruel, 
Stout  and  Hunter  having  made  tjjem  serve  as  their  body 
guard  and  used  them  very  hard.  I  dealt  out  some  of  my 
own  flour  and  bacon  to  them,  determined  to  comfort 
them  some  if  I  could  and  not  being  willing  to  see  any- 
one in  our  company  suffer  while  I  have  anything  left.  It 
Continued  to  rain  all  night  very  hard. 

SATURDAY,  4xn.  This  morning  all  our  clothing, 
beds  and  bed  clothing  were  drenched  and  it  has  continued 
to  rain  all  day.  I  have  been  sick  again  all  day  especially 
towards  night.  I  was  so  distressed  with  pain  it  seemed 


\YILLT.\M  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  13 

a*  though  I  could  not  live.  I  went  to  bed  and  put  a  bag 
of  hot  salt  on  my  chest  which  seemed  to  give  me  some 
ease  but  I  suffered  much  through  the  night,  and  it  con- 
tinued to  rain  until  after  midnight.  We  put  an  extra 
cover  on  our  sleeping  wagon,  which  kept  out  the  rain. 
We  have  only  slept  in  the  wagon  three  nights  but  have 
slept  under  a  tent  on  the  wet  ground.  Haw's  company 
are  now  formed  with  us,  making  our  50  nearly  complete. 
A  number  of  the  company  feel  unwell  on  account  of  the 
rain  and  wet. 

SUNDAY,  STH.  This  morning  I  feel  a  little  better 
and  the  day  is  fine  and  pleasant.  I  have  spent  the  day 
writing  in  this  journal,  having  written  from  memory  all 
since  the  date  of  March  9th.  Some  of  the  dates  may  not 
be  correct  but  the  matters  recorded  are  true.  It  is  now 
1 :00  o'clock  P.  M.  There  is  a  meeting  at  Elder  Kimball's 
camp  but  I  am  sent  here  in  this  wagon  to  fetch  up  this 
record.  My  health  is  somewhat  better  for  which  I  feel 
thankful.  Elder  Kimball  says  we  had  better  not  attempt 
to  move  tomorrow.  We  can  get  corn  within  ten  miles 
from  here  an-d  he  will  help  us  to  means.  We  have  now 
to  lay  in  corn  to  last  till  we  get  to  Grand  River  about  fifty 
miles  farther,  there  being  no  farms  on  the  road.  On  Fri- 
(]ay  evening  I  appointed  Charles  Terry  captain  of  my 
ten  and  Henry  A.  Terry  clerk  and  my  brother  James  to 
attend  on  my  family  agreeable  with  the  orders  of  the 
President  that  I  may  be  able  to  spend  my  time  writing 
for  the  council  and  camp  and  attend  councils.  Elder  Kim- 
ball  instructed  the  captains  of  tens  to  call  their  com- 
panies together  at  4 :00  o'clock.  Agreeable  with  this,  the 
band  assembled  in  front  of  mv  tent  and  administered  the 


14  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

sacrament.  Wm.  F.  Gaboon  and  Charles  A.  Terry  offici- 
ated. I  spoke  about  three  quarters  of  an  hour  on  various 
subjects  touching"  on  our  journey  and  the  policy  we  ought 
to  use.  etc.  After  I  had  done  Elder  Haws  spoke  on  some 
subjects  and  the  meeting  adjourned.  The  captains  then 
went  over  to  Elder  Kimball's  camp  about  sending  foi 
corn.  We  concluded  to  send  four  teams  for  our  50,  Cap- 
tain Eg-an  and  Haws  then  went  through  the  camp  to  .see 
if  they  could  obtain  some  money.  Haws  obtained  $31.45 
and  Egan  $9.00.  T  sent  $14.00  by  Egan  for  some.  Wrote 
to  Diantha. 

MONDAY,  6m.  It  has  rained  again  the  last  night 
and  continued  to  rain  all  day  very  heavily.  The  camp  is 
very  disagreeable  and  muddy.  I  spent  the  day  reading. 
About  5  :00  o'clock  the  clouds  began  to  break  and  it  looks 
more  likely  for  being  fair.  In  the  evening  Elder  Kimball 
came  over  and  the  band  met  opposite  Hutchinson's  wagon 
and  played  .some.  After  that  the  quadrille  band  met  in  my 
tent  and  played  on  the  violins.  All  the  time  we  were  play- 
ing the  lightning  occasionally  broke  forth  from  the  north- 
west and  at  8 :00  o'clock  we  dispersed  just  as  the  storm  ap- 
proached. Before  I  got  to  my  tent  the  wind  arrived  and 
soon  blew  a  perfect  gale  with  heavy  rain,  hail,  lightning 
and  thunder.  It  continued  for  an  hour  and  then  abated 
some.  All  the  tents  in  our  company  except  mine  and 
Pack's  were  blown  down.  The  rain  beat  through  the 
wagon  covers  and  drenched  the  families  and  effects.  It 
was  the  most  severe  storm  we  have  experienced  and  with 
such  wind  it  seems  impossible  to  preserve  our  little  cloth- 
ing and  provisions  from  being  spoiled.  But  in  the  midst 


WII.T.TAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  15 

of  all,  the  camp  seems  cheerful  and  happy  and  there  are 
but  few  sick. 

TUESDAY,  /TII.  This  morning  it  is  fair  but  cold  and 
windy.  The  ground  is  frozen  stiff  and  considerable  ice. 
Many  of  the  tents  are  still  lying  flat  and  everything 
around  shows  that  the  storm  was  very  severe.  A  number 
of  the  band  have  no  meat  and  some  no  flour  nor  in  fact 
scarcely  any  provisions  and  several  have  had  little, — only 
what  I  have  given  them  out  of  the  stock  I  laid  in  for  my 
family.  I  have  this  morning  given  the  guard  the  bag  of 
flour  Miller  left  and  a  piece  of  pork  and  also  a  piece  to 
Redding.  The  day  continued  fine  but  roads  almost  im- 
passable. Evening  the  baml  played  some. 

WEDNESDAY,  STH.  This  morning  the  ground  was  hard 
again.  But  the  weather  looks  more  for  rain.  I  went  out 
with  Captain  Cahoon  and  President  Haws  to  look  out  a 
better  camp  ground  and  we  concluded  to  move  on  a  little 
farther  west  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  It  took  the  com- 
pany all  day  to  move,  it  being  almost  impossible  to  move 
the  loads  even  with  tripling  teams.  About  five  o'clock 
Egan  and  the  teams  came  back  with  fifty-seven  bushels  of 
corn.  He  had  to  give  21c  a  bushel  for  nearly  all  of  it. 
Elder  Kimball  came  over  soon  after  to  see  if  he  could  not 
get  some  of  it.  While  we  were  talking  President  Pratt 
and  his  company  arrived  and  reported  that  their  teams 
have  had  no  corn  since  yesterday  morning  neither  could 
they  get  any.  Heber  remarked  that  he  would  say  no 
more  about  us  letting  him  have  any  although  we  had  only 
enough  to  feed  five  ears  a  feed  every  three  days,  and  a 
journey  of  about  fifty  miles  before  we  can  get  any  more 
with  bad  roads.  We  let  Parlev  have  one  load.  Heber 


16  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

csme  with  me  to  our  camp  and  handed  me  a  letter  from 
President  Young  requesting  us  all  to  go  on  which  I  read 
to  the  company.  I  felt  very  unwell  again  and  went  to 
bed  early. 

THURSDAY,  PTH.  This  morning  we  concluded  to 
pursue  our  journey,  President  Kimball  and  his  company 
started  out  about  seven  o'clock.  President  Pratt  started 
out  with  his  company.  Our  company  waited  for  the  lat- 
ter to  start  in. its  place  till  after  eight  o'clock  and  then 
we  went  on.  The  roads  were  very  bad  indeed.  About 
noon  it  commenced  raining  heavily  which  made  the  roads 
still  worse.  We  had  calculated  to  go  about  eight  miles  to 
timber  but  after  toiling  till  about  four  o'clock  and  having 
traveled  only  about  five  miles  and  our  teams  being  en- 
tirely worn  down  we  turned  out  of  the  road  to  a  little 
branch  of  water  to  camp.  Several  of  my  teams  stuck 
and  we  had  to  work  till  dark  to  get  part  of  them  to 
camp  and  two  wagons  we  were  compelled  to  leave  over 
night.  Quite  a  number  were  obliged  to  stay  back  on  the 
prairie  and  Charles  Hale  did  not  come  more  than  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  from  where  we  started  this  morning. 
Elder  Kimball  has  camped  one  and  a  half  miles  farther 
on  the  open  prairie  and  many  of  his  teams,  are  yet  be- 
hind. P.  P.  Pratt's  company  are  here  with  us  as  well  a* 
George  Miller's  company  except  those  behind  on  the 
prairie.  It  continued  to  rain  very  heavily  until  night.  We 
could  not  make  a  fire  and  had  little  for  supper,  our  pro- 
visions being  in  one  of  the  wagons  back.  This  is  the 
most  severe  time  we  have  had  but  yet  the  camp  seems 
in  good  spirits. 

FRIDAY,   lOrn.     The  weather  is  yet  very  wet  ruin 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  17 

gloomy.  I  spent  the  morning  talking  to  Margaret.  At 
seven  o'clock  a  gale  struck  up  and  blew  our  tents  over. 
\Ye  then  concluded  to  move  a  few  rods  lower  out  of  the 
wind.  Before  we  got  moved  the  wind  moved  to  the  we-^t 
and  it  grew  very  cold.  Our  teams  are  gone  back  to  fetch 
some  of  the  wagons  left  last  night.  It  rains  and  blows 
very  badly  and  is  very  severe  on  our  women  and  teams. 
Margaret  and  Lidia  are  out  all  the  time  and  continually 
wetting  both  feet  and  all  over.  We  expect  Robert  Bur- 
ton's, one  of  Peck's,  Peart's  and  my  wagons  in  to-night. 
One  of  mine  was  fetched  early  in  the  morning.  Our 
teams  fare  hard  with  wet  and  cold,  having  very  little  corn. 

SATURDAY.  HTH.  This  morning  rode  with  Egan  to 
help  to  get  Brother  Peart's  wagon  out  of  the  slough.  It 
took  five  yoke  of  oxen  and  twelve  men  to  draw  it  our. 
The  roads  are  yet  very  bad  but  it  is  fair  and  very  cold. 
\Ye  sent  twelve  yoke  of  oxen  to  bring  up  Peck's  and 
Charles  Male's  wagon.  They  got  in  late  at  night. 

SUNDAY.  12-m.  This  morning  before  I  got  up,  P. 
P.  Pratt  called  and  said  that  President  Young  wants  the 
council  to  meet  at  Heber's  camp  at  ten  o'clock.  I  started 
out  with  Captain  Egan  .on  foot  and  arrived  in  season. 
Had  some  conversation  with  Ellen  Sanders  Kimball  and 
then,  went  to  council.  It  was  decided  to  change  our  route 
and  take  a  more  northern  one  to  avoid  the  settlement^. 
\\'e  will  go  to  Grand  River  and  there  enclose  a  space  of 
land  about  two  miles  square  and  put  up  some  twenty 
log  houses  for  a  resting  place  for  the  companies.  A  com- 
pany starts  out  in  a  day  or  two  to  .seek  out  the  location 
amongst  whom  are  the  President,  Heber  and  others  of 
the  twelve.  A  company  will  also  be  sent  west  to  Judge 


IS  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

Miller's  to  go  to  work  for  feed,  etc.  After  council  I  took 
dinner  with  Heber,  the  President  being  with  us.  I  then 
wrote  a  letter  to  the  trustees  and  returned  with  Captain 
Egan  to  our  camp  and  soon  after  went  to  bed.  The  day 
has  been  fine  but  cold. 

MONDAY,  13TH.  Finished  my  letter  to  Diantha  and 
then  went  over  to  Peck's  blacksmith  shop.  We  had  con- 
cluded not  to  leave  till  morning.  While  there  a  message 
arrived  saying  that  Haws  has  sent  eight  yoke  of  cattle  to 
help  us  on.  We  then  concluded  to  start  forthwith,  being 
noon.  But  although  we  had  so  many  extra  teams,  we 
bad  to  leave  three  wagons  in  camp  over  night.  Four  of 
my  folks  walked  all  the  way  but  .still  it  was  hard  for  me 
to  get  along.  Keller  had  to  stay  back  over  night.  I  ar- 
rived at  Locust  Creek,  being  about  four  miles  journey, 
about  six  o'clock  and  sent  the  cattle  back  for  Peck  and 
Steven  Hales  but  they  did  not  return  till  morning.  In 
the  evening  the  band  played  some.  James  broke  his 
wagon  tongue.  We  camped  a  little  north  of  President 
Heber's  camp. 

TUESDAY,  14xH.  The  weather  is  again  very  fine.  Be- 
cause some  of  the  wagons  did  not  come,  Egan  and  I  con- 
cluded to  go  and  meet  them  and  not  start  farther  until  to- 
morrow. We  met  the  teams  close  by  and  then  took  a 
northern  course  a  hunting.  We  saw  only  squirrels  and 
I  got  five  of  them.  About  noon  we  returned  and  found 
the  camp  mostly  gone.  Orders  had  come  from  the  Presi- 
dent for  the  whole  to  move  to  his  camp  today.  Charles 
Terry  and  Henry  were  gone  a  hunting  which  detained 
me  till  about  three  o'clock.  James  and  I  then  started 
with  the  four  wagons.  They  overtook  us  when  we  had 


\VILLIA.\E  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  19 

got  about  one  half  mile.  We  found  the  road  very  bad 
and  had  to  double  teams,  our  horses  being  so  badly  worn 
down.  Charles  Terry  broke  a  wagon  tongue. 

WEDNESDAY,  15TH.  Last  night  I  got  up  to  watch, 
there  being  no  guard.  The  cattle  and  horses  breaking 
into  the  tents  and  wagons.  I  tarried  up  then  called  S. 
Hales  and  Kimball.  This  morning  Ellen  Kimball  came 
to  me  and  wishes  me  much  joy.  She  said  Diantha  has 
a  son.  I  told  her  I  was  afraid  it  was  not  so,  but 
she  said  Brother  Pond  had  received  a  letter.  I  went  over 
to  Pond's  and  he  read  that  she  had  a  fine  fat  boy  on 
the  30th  ult.,  but  she  was  very  sick  with  ague  and 
mumps.  Truly  I  feel  to  rejoice  at  this  intelligence  but 
feel  sorry  to  hear  of  her  sickness.  Spent  the  day  chiefly 
reading.  In  the  afternoon  President  Young  came  over 
and  found  some  fault  about  our  wagons,  etc.  In  the 
evening  the  band  played  and  after  we  dismissed  the  fol- 
lowing persons  retired  to  my  tent  to  have  a  social  chris- 
tening, viz.  William  Pitt.  Hutchinson,  Smithies,  Kay, 
Egan,  Duzett,  Redding,  William  Cahoon,  James  Clayton 
and  Charles  A.  Terry  and  myself.  We  had  a  very  pleas- 
ant time  playing  and  singing  until  about  twelve  o'clock 
and  drank  health  to  my  son.  We  named  him  William 
Adriel  Benoni  Clayton.  The  weather  has  been  fine  but 
rains  a  little  tonight.  Henry  Terry's  horses  are  missing 
and  have  been  hunted  today  but  not  found.  This  morning 
I  composed  a  new  song — "All  is  well."  I  feel  to  thank 
my  heavenly  father  for  my  boy  and  pray  that  he  will 
spare  and  preserve  his  life  and  that  of  his  mother  and 
so  order  it  so  that  we  may  soon  meet  again.  O  Lord 
bless  thine  handmaid  and  fill  her  with  thy  spirit,  make 


20  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

her  healthy  that  her  life  may  be  prolonged  and  that  we 
may  live  upon  the  earth  and  honor  the  cause  of  truth.  In 
the  evening  I  asked  the  President  if  he  would  not  suffer 
me  to  send  for  Diantha.  He  consented  and  said  we 
would  send  when  we  got  to  Grand  River. 

THURSDAY,  16TH.  This  morning  prepared  to  pro- 
ceed on  our  journey  but  a  span  of  horses  in  our  com- 
pany in  care  of  Henry  Terry  being  missing  we  concluded 
not  to  start.  I  sent  out  three  men  to  hunt  them.  Soon 
after  they  were  brought  into  camp  by  another  person.  I 
then  sent  Henry  Terry  to  hunt  for  the  men  but  it  was  after 
two  o'clock  before  they  returned.  We  fed  a  little  corn  and 
then  started.  The  company  is  far  ahead  of  us.  We 
traveled  very  slowly  our  teams  were  so  weak.  However, 
we  soon  came  into  sight  of  the  camp  but  it  was  six  o'clock 
before  we  got  there,  having  traveled  about  seven  miles. 
The  camp  was  formed  on  a  beautiful  prairie,  President 
Young's  camp  being  on  a  little  eminence.  President 
Kimball's  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  north  of  his  and 
ours  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  east.  There  is  some  little 
grass  for  our  cattle  here,  but  little.  We  sent  those  of  our 
company  about  a  mile  southeast  and  had  a  guard  over 
them  through  the  night.  President  Haws,  Captains  Egan 
and  Kay  and  Jackson  Redding  went  out  a  hunting. 
George  Hale's  cattle  were  so  worn  down  that  they  could 
not  get  along  and  when  within  about  a  mile  of  camp 
about  fifteen  of  the  brethren  went  to  help.  They  took  a 
rope  and  fixed  it  on  the  wagon,  loosed  the  cattle  and 
brought  it  in  themselves,  singing  all  the  way.  At  night 
the  band  played  and  then  I  retired  to  bed. 

FRIDAY,   17TH.     This  morning  very  fine.     Some  of 


WILLIAM   CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  21 

the  camp  started  very  early  on  the  way.  I  was  ready 
about  eight  o'clock  but  was  detained  on  account  of  Cap- 
tain Haws,  Egan  and  others  having  gone  hunting.  I  left 
Margaret  to  drive  my  team  and  sent  them  on  and  I  drove 
the  cattle  on  foot.  We  formed  our  encampment  on  a  high 
dry  place. 

SUNDAY,  19xH.  While  the  rest  are  gone  to  meeting 
I  turned  to  unpacking  and  took  an  inventory  of  church 
property.  It  took  ttfl  about  four  o'clock  to  get  through. 
Daniel  Spencer's  company  had  arrived  about  five  o'clock. 
Porter  Rockwell  and  Edwin  Cutler  arrived  with  the 
mail.  Received  a  letter  from  Diantha  confirming  the 
birth  of  my  son.  also  a  letter  from  A.  W.  Babbit  on  some 
business.  Went  to  see  the  President  to  show  him  the  in- 
ventory but  could  not  find  him.  About  dark  he  sent  for 
me  and  I  went  again  but  he  was  gone  and  I  did  not  see 
him.  My  mare  got  in  a  mud  hole  last  night  and  is  very 
badly  strained.  Evening  went  to  council  and  read  many 
letters  and  wrote  one  to  Elder  Hyde. 

MONDAY,  20m.  At  nine  o'clock  went  to  council. 
Had  to  read  some  letters  and  several  pieces  from  papers. 
A  report  was  read  of  all  those  who  are  able  to  fit  them- 
selves for  the  mountains.  A  law  was  made  on  motion 
of  President  Young  that  any  person  who  interrupts  the 
council  hereafter  by  talking  or  otherwise,  shall  be  de- 
prived the  privilege  of  the  council  till  the  council  see 
proper  to  admit  him.  The  public  teams  being  brought 
together,  the  bishops  took  a  list  of  them  to  be  disposed 
of  at  Grand  River.  After  council  I  went  to  work  to  assort 
the  articles  to  be  sold,  etc.  Wrote  to  Diantha. 

TUESDAY,  21  ST.    This  morning  the  main  body  of  the 


22  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

camp  are  gone,  but  I  am  obliged  to  tarry  and  pack  up 
the  public  goods  again  and  re-load  my  wagons.  I 
weighed  most  of  our  loads  and  it  took  until  night  to  get 
through.  Charles  Terry's  horse  and  one  of  mine  are  un- 
able to  drag  any. 

WEDNESDAY,  22ND.  I  had  intended  to  start  early 
this  morning  but  our  horses  were  away  which  detained  us 
till  nearly  nine  o'clock.  About  that  time  we  started  and 
traveled  slowly  about  four  and  a  half  miles.  We  then 
stopped  at  11:30  and  thought  we  would  rest  our  teams 
and  get  them  cooled  off.  The  sun  was  very  warm  and 
they  sweat  considerably.  Word  came  that  O.  P.  Rock- 
well was  on  his  way  and  would  call  for  letters.  We  in- 
tended to  wait  until  he  came.  I  wrote  a  short  letter  to 
A.  W.  Babbit  and  one  to  father  but  Porter  failed  to  call, 
and  at  two  o'clock  we  started  again.  We  traveled  until 
about  three  o'clock  when  we  passed  Orson  Pratt  who  had 
concluded  to  stay  a  piece  east  of  where  the  camp  had 
tarried  last  night.  He  said  all  the  grass  was  eaten  up  for 
several  miles  around.  We  concluded  to  go  beyond  the 
timber  where  the  main  camp  stayed  last  night  but  tried 
to  find  grass  for  our  teams.  We  started  onward.  At 
the  creek  watered  our  teams  and  rested  awhile.  We 
then  went  on  about  a  mile  and  a  half  and  found  good 
grass  and  much  of  it.  We  at  once  concluded  to  tarry 
there.  We  had  put  a  little  wood  into  our  wagons  to  cook 
with.  We  arrived  on  the  ground  about  six  o'clock  and 
then  got  the  best  camp  ground  we  have  had  for  some 
time. 

Three  of  our  teams  were  behind  when  we  arrived. 
Horlick  got  in  about  a  half  an  hour  after  us  and  then 


WILLIAM   CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  23 

afterwards  Swap  and  Jones  arrived  at  7  :30  o'clock.  We 
are  all  comfortable  but  very  tired,  having  traveled  about 
ten  miles.  My  wife  Ruth  walked  all  the  way  and  myself 
also.  The  rest  walked  by  turns.  We  have  seen  many 
rattlesnakes  today.  The  weather  is  very  fine. 

THURSDAY,  23RD.  This  last  night  has  been  very 
stormy  with  heavy  thunder,  hail,  rain  and  wind.  The 
thunder  and  lightning  was  very  loud  and  the  rain  fell 
in  torrents.  The  weather  continues  cold  and  cloudy  with 
some  fine  showers.  There  appears  some  heavy  rain  in 
the  east  and  north.  Grass  looks  green  and  the  cattle  have 
filled  themselves  well.  We  started  about  ten  o'clock  and 
soon  found  that  last  night's  rain  had  made  the  roads  much 
worse.  After  traveling  about  four  miles  we.  stopped  to 
graze  our  teams,  being  one  o'clock.  While  resting  Elders 
Taylor  and  Orson  Pratt  passed  on  horseback.  At  three 
o'clock  we  started  again  and  about  four,  came  to  the 
President's  camp.  He  was  just  returning  from  an  ex- 
ploring tour  to  find  out  better  roads.  His  camp  was  on 
the  east  of  a  piece  of  timber.  He  gave  orders  to  move 
to  the  other  side  of  the  timber  about  a  mile  from  where  he 
then  was.  We  concluded  to  move  on  and  finally  camped 
on  the  next  ridge  southwest  of  his.  Our  teams  are  tired 
and  there  is  not  much  grass.  A  number  of  the  horses 
have  been  bitten  by  rattlesnakes  and  one  is  dead.  There 
are  a  great  number  of  these  snakes  on  these  prairies. 
The  President  says  the  road  to  the  next  timber  is  all 
ridges  and  hollows  and  will  be  hard  on  teams.  We  got 
camped  about  5 :30  p.  m.,  and  before  we  got  fixed  a 
thunder  storm  came  on  with  heavy  rain  but  it  was  soon 
over  and  the  evening  afterwards  was  fine. 


24  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

FRIDAY,  24rn.  This  morning  the  President's  com- 
pany made  a  bridge  over  a  creek  and  started  again  on 
their  journey.  Four  of  my  horses  were  missing  and  I 
sent  men  to  hunt  them  and  went  myself.  They  were  found 
about  ten  o'clock.  We  tarried  until  about  twelve  to  rest 
and  then  started.  We  went  abtmt  two  miles  and  stayed 
until  four  o'clock  to  graze  our  teams  and  then  went  on 
again  and  about  six  o'clock  got  to  timber.  I  went  to 
hunt  a  camping  spot  with  Egan.  We  saw  some  women 
who  told  us  Grand  River  jyas  only  a  mile  ahead  and  that 
the  other  companies  were  required  to  go  down  there. 
We  started  and  soon  arrived  at  the  main  body  of  the 
camp.  We  formed  on  the  south  side  of  the  camp.  The 
ground  here  is  rich,  timber  good,  and  the  prospects  good 
for  heavy  crops.  Here  we  calculated  to  tarry  a  while, 
fence  in  a  piece  of  land  and  those  who  are  not  prepared 
to  go  through'to  tarry  and  raise  crops.  Wild  onions  grow 
in  abundance.  The  weather  has  been  fine  today.  Even- 
ing those  of  the  band  who  are  here  went  to  Bishop  Mil- 
ler's tent  and  played  for  the  President  and  a  Mr.  Bryant 
who  lives  about  thirty  miles  from  here.  Pitt,  George, 
Charles  and  Steven  Hales  and  William  F.  Gaboon  art 
way  back  as  yet  as  well  as  Heber's  company. 

SATURDAY,  25TH.  This  morning  started  by  daybreak 
fishing.  About  7 :30  the  President  sent  for  me.  I  came 
back  but  he  was  gone.  President  Haws  is  regulating  the 
company  to  watch  our  teams  and  also  go  to  making 
rails  etc.  The  morning  is  fine.  About  nine  o'clock  Ken- 
dall one  of  my  teamsters,  brought  one  of  the  horses  he 
drives  into  camp  which  had  been  bitten  by  a  rattlesnake. 
His  nose  had  begun  to  swell  badly.  We  got  some  spirits 


WILLLUL  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  25 

of  turpentine  and  bathed  the  wound,  washed  his  face  in 
salt  and  water  and  gave  him  some  snakes  master  root 
boiled  in  milk.  He  yet  seems  very  sick.  Our  men  have 
made  a  pen  for  the  cattle  at  night.  I  feel  quite  unwell  to- 
day. Spent  the  day  chiefly  reading.  Evening  Kennedy 
came  to  look  at  our  horse  and  says  they  have  given  suf- 
ficient of  the  master  root  to  kill  four  well  horses.  The 
horse  looks  very  sick  and  is  already  scarcely  able  to  stand. 
The  band  played  a  few  tunes  at  night.  About  nine  o'clock 
it  rained  somewhat  and  continued  to  shower  through 
the  night.  Pitt  arrived  in  camp  this  afternoon. 

SUNDAY,  26TH.  The  first  news  I  heard  this  morning 
was  that  the  horse  was  dead.  This  is  a  very  unlucky 
circumstance  for  me  for  I  am  already  very  deficient  in 
teams.  Moreover,  three  of  my  teams  leave  me  here,  viz. 
Horlick,  Chas.  A.  Terry  and  Jones  with  their  wagons 
and  teams.  I  shall  then  have  about  quarter  teams  enough 
to  draw  the  loads.  I  have  about  three  thou- 
sand pounds  of  church  property  besides  my  own  goods. 
I  see  little  chance  of  my  moving  from  here  at  present. 
The  morning  was  wet  but  it  cleared  off  and  continued  so 
all  day.  I  spent  the  day  reading  and  writing  while  the 
rest  went  to  meeting.  Evening  was  sent  for  to  go  to 
council.  Read  a  letter  from  O.  Hyde  stating  that  they 
had  had  an  offer  of  two  hundred  thousand  dollars  for 
the  temple.  He  wrrites  of  hard  times  in  Nauvoo.  The 
council  selected  one  hundred  men  to  make  rails,  forty- 
eight  to  build  houses ;  twelve  to  dig  wells ;  ten  to  build  a 
bridge  and  the  rest  to  go  to  farming. 

Steven  Markham,  C.  C.  Rich,  L.  C.  Wilson,  James 
Pace  to  oversee  the  rail  cutting.  Brigham  Young,  Heber 


2f>  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

C.  Kimball,  P.  P.  Pratt  and  Geo.  A.  Smith  the  house 
building.  A.  P.  Rockwood  to  boss  bridge  building.  Presi- 
dent Young  to  boss  him  and  the  whole  camp  and  Jacob 
Peart  to  boss  well  digging.  The  council  decided  to  wait 
until  morning  to  decide  relative  to  selling  the  temple. 
After  we  adjourned  I  went  into  my  wagon.  I  wrote  a 
long  letter  to  Diantha.  It  was  about  ten  o'clock  when  T 
got  through. 

MONDAY,  27xH.  Rained  all  day.  At  6:00  a.  m., 
went  to  meeting.  The  men  were  divided  out  to  work  and 
commenced  operations  and  had  to  quit  on  account  of  rain. 
After  breakfast  went  to  council,  when  it  was  voted  to 
sell  the  temple,  signifying  as  to  the  reason,  it  will  be  more 
likely  to  be  preserved.  It  is  as  lawful  to  sell  it  to  help  the 
poor  saints  as  to  sell  our  inheritance.  We  do  it  because 
we  are  compelled  to  do  it.  I  was  ordered  to  write  an 
answer  tp  Elder  Hyde's  letter  which  I  did,  saying  finally, 
if  the  temple  was  sold,  $25,000  must  be  sent  for  the  benefit 
of  the  camp.  The  balance  to  be  left  at  the  disposal  of 
elder  Hyde,  Woodruff  and  the  trustees  and  to  be  appro- 
priated to  help  away  those  who  have  labored  hard  to 
build  the  temple  and  the  faithful  poor  of  the  saints.  Spent 
the  balance  of  the  day  packing  up  china  and  crockery  to 
be  sent  by  Egan. 

TUESDAY,  28TH.  Weather  very  wet.  Moved  up  on 
higher  ground.  Spent  the  morning  unpacking  chests 
for  files  and  supplies.  Afternoon  unloading  wagon  to 
send  a-trading.  The  weather  very  wet  until  night. 
President  Young  called  over  and  said  we  had  better  not 
send  Egan  until  the  weather  settles.  The  quadrille  band 
have  gone  to  give  concerts  in  the  Platte.  They  had  to  draw 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  27 

their  wagons  across  the  river  by  ropes  the  water  was  so 
high. 

WEDNESDAY,  29TH.  It  still  continues  to  rain  and  the 
ground  is  getting  quite  soft  and  muddy.  Spent  the  day 
setting  men  to  fixing  yokes  and  bows.  Walked  out  about 
a  mile  to  the  bluff  west  of  us.  It  ceased  raining  about 
eleven  o'clock  and  continued  fair  through  the  day. 

THURSDAY,  30m.  Unpacking  and  re-packing  chests 
all  the  day.  It  continues  to  rain  more  or  less  and  the 
weather  looks  bad.  Ruth  is  quite  unwell. 

FRIDAY,  MAY  1,  1846.  This  month  brings  the 
damp  wet  weather.  Chas.  Shumway  and  George  Lang- 
ley  start  for  George  Herring  this  morning  being  instruc- 
ted to  bring  him  on  to  Council  Bluffs.  Spent  the  day 
preparing  for  Egan  to  start  trading.  He  has  gone  with 
Jackson  Redding  and  has  taken  $288.00  of  church  prop- 
erty besides  two  span  of  horses  and  harness  and  near 
$60.00  of  mine.  Afternoon  packing  chests,  etc.  The 
weather  finer  and -fairer. 

SATURDAY,  2ND.  The  day  is  fine.  Preparing  some 
for  Horlick's  return  to  Nauvoo  on  Monday.  Wrote  to 
Diantha.  Selling  shoes. 

SUNDAY,  SRD.  The  morning  fair,  windy  and  cloudy, 
southeast  wind.  Spent  the  morning  making  a  list  of  all 
the  company  who  have  made  their  reports,  also  fixing 
tents.  At  ten  o'clock  went  to  meeting.  O.  Spencer  talked 
a  while  and  was  followed  by  President  Young  who  ex- 
horted the  camp  to  diligence  in  getting  in  crops  for  that 
will  be  our  salvation  the  next  winter.  He  said  no  com- 
pany should  start  from  here  until  the  south  field  was 
made  and'  some  houses  built.  It  commenced  raining  as 


28  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

the  meeting  closed  and  about  three  o'clock  a  thunder 
storm  came  on  which  lasted  till  near  five  o'clock.  I  spent 
the  afternoon  reading.  Soon  after  five  it  cleared  off  some 
and  the  sun  shone  again.  While  at  supper  President 
Young  called  and  stated  that  he  wished  that  I  should 
go  to  council  with  him.  I  started  and  the  council  met 
opposite  his  tent.  It  was  decided  that  his  fifty  build  the 
bridge  tomorrow  and  all  the  rest  to  make  rails  and  also 
that  Sherwood  and  Orson  Pratt  go  about  twenty-five  or 
thirty  miles  southwest  to  seek  out  another  section. 

MONDAY,  4xH.  Finished  my  letter  to  Diantha  and 
sent  it  by  John  Richards.  Horlick  has  concluded  to  tarry 
till  my  wagons  are  fixed.  I  spent  the  day  examining  my 
flour  and  crackers  and  helping  to  fix  the  tent  as  consider- 
able of  my  crackers  and  flour  are  damaged  on  account  of 
having  poor  wagons.  I  dreamed  last  night  that  I  saw 
Diantha  and  her  babe.  Her  babe  was  dressed  in  white 
and  appeared  to  be  lying  down  with  its  eyes  closed.  She 
was  bent  over  it  apparently  in  sorrow.  When  I  went  to 
her  she  flew  to  me  earnestly  but  the  babe  seemed  to  be 
kept  still  and  asleep,  and  I  awoke.  This  dream  has  troub- 
led me  considerably.  Evening  met  the  clerks  of  50's  in 
my  tent  and  instructed  them  how  to  make  their  reports, 
etc. 

TUESDAY,  STH.  The  weather  very  fine.  I  spent  the 
day  preparing  to  enter  the  reports  on  the  record.  Went 
over  to  J.  D.  Lee's  and  learned  that  some  of  the  clerks 
had  been  to  the  President  and  told  him  that  I  had  or- 
dered that  they  should  include  in  their  reports  each  wife 
a  man  has.  I  did  not  do  any  such  thing,  only  re- 
quested each  name  should  be  in  full  according  to  the 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  & 

order  of  a  previous  council.  The  President  said  it  did 
not  matter  about  the  names  being  in  full  but  I  think  in 
after  days  it  will  prove  it  does.  Dr.  Richards  thinks  as 
I  do.  The  President,  I  understand,  appeared  quite  angry. 
Many  of  the  band  are  entirely  destitute  of  provisions 
and  my  flour  is  so  nearly  down  I  have  Concluded  to  eat 
biscuit.  I  have  given  the  band  considerable  of  my  bis- 
cuit already.  At  nine  o'clock  fixing  my  wagons.  Ex- 
pected a  storm  which  soon  afterwards  commenced,  rain- 
ing and  thundering  very  hard.  Raining  most  of  the 
night. 

WHO. \Ksn.\Y,  6x11.  Writing  in  the  camp  record.  In 
the  afternoon  a  storm  arose  emitting  very  violent  wind, 
thunder,  lightning,  rain  and  hail.  Many  tents  blew  over. 
One  of  mine  blew  over  and  most  of  our  articles  were 
wet  and  some  nearly  spoiled.  I  have  been  informed 
that  Esther  Kay  has  been  offering  bitter  complaints  be- 
cause they  do  not  fare  as  well  as  some  others.  The  hint 
was  thrown  at  Margaret  and  she  understood  that  it  was 
for  me.  I  have  today  let  Miss  Kay  a  pair  of  shoes  and 
took  down  a  large  bag  of  biscuits  and  divided  it  amongst 
those  who  are  needy.  I  have  all  the  time  let  them  have 
Hour,  sugar,  bacon  and  other  things  as  I  had  them  and  to 
hear  of  dissatisfaction  because  I  will  not  let  them  have 
the  last  I  have  grieves  me.  I  have  given  to  the  band 
as  near  as  I  can  estimate,  twelve  hundred  pounds  of 
flour,  about  four  or  five  hundred  pounds  of  bacon  besides 
much  of  other  things.  Towards  evening  it  did  not  rain  so 
much  but  continued  hard  after  we  went  to  bed.  The 
wind  was  very  severe,  almost  as  bad  as  I  ever  saw  it  for 
about  a  half  an  hour. 


30  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

THURSDAY,  ?TH.  This  morning  it  is  dull,  cloudy  and 
cold.  About  nine  o'clock  commenced  raining  again.  I 
have  again  given  Sister  Kay  a  quart  cup  full  of  sugar. 
I  have  spent  the  day  entering  reports  on  record. 

FRIDAY,  STH.  The  weather  fine  and  pleasant.  Spent 
the  day  fixing  wagon  covers  and  wagons.  Andrew  Ca- 
hoon  arrived  from  Nauvoo  with  the  mail  but  no  letter 
from  Diantha  or  father.  He  says  the  troops  arrested 
O.  P.  Rockwell  last  Thursday  evening  and  took  him  to 
Carthage  and  thence  to  Quincy  jail.  It  is  doubtful 
whether  he  will  now  escape  their  cruel  vengeance.  This 
morning  the  mare  had  a  colt.  I  have  felt  quite  unwell  all 
day.  Evening  went  to  President  Young's  to  get  records 
to  look  for  a  deed  from  Hiram  Kimball  to  Ira  S.  Miles. 
Searched  till  near  ten  o'clock  but  the  deed  is  not  on  rec- 
ord. Kimball  seems  disposed  to  take  all  the  advantages 
he  can  from  everyone. 

SATURDAY,  9Tii.  Morning  fixing  wagon  cover, 
counseling  with  Wm.  Cahoon  and  then  was  called  aside 
by  the  President  to  read  two  letters  from  Sister  Harris 
and  her  son.  Dr.  Richards,  John  Smith  and  Heber  were 
present.  Afternoon  went  fishing.  The  weather  fine  and 
no  wind. 

SUNDAY,  lOri-i.  Wrote  a  letter  to  Diantha,  one  to 
trustees,  one  to  father,  one  to  Brother  Burdick,  one  to 
Thos.  Moore  and  one  to  John  Everett.  Keller  returned 
with  thirteen  bushels  of  meal  and  250  pounds  of  bacon 
from  the  guard,  having  been  gone  twelve  days.  Evening 
went  to  council  to  Heber's  tent.  Samuel  Bent  having 
been  appointed  at  today's  meeting  to  preside  over  those 
left  on  his  arm,  he  chose  David  Fullmer  and  Ezra  T. 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  31 

Benson  for  counselors.  P.  P.  Pratt  was  advised  to  start 
as  soon  as  possible  for  Platte  River  to  take  all  who  were 
prepared  to  go. 

MONDAY,  HTH.  Morning  distributing  meal  and 
bacon  to  the  band.  Afterwards  the  President,  Heber, 
and  Dr.  Richards  came  and  took  some  cordage.  After- 
noon weighing  and  loading. 

TUESDAY,  12TH.  Sent  Keller  and  Corbite  to  the 
mills  to  try  and  get  flour,  meal  and  two  cows.  Weigh- 
ing and  packing.  About  nine  was  sent  for  to  go  to  coun- 
cil. I  >vaited  about  two  hours  before  anything  was 
done.  The  vote  for  Ezra  T.  Benson  to  stay  as  counselor 
for  father  Bent  was  rescinded  and  it  was  voted  to  take 
Aron  Johnson  in  his  place.  A  letter  of  authority  was 
written  for  father  Bent  by  Dr.  Richards  but  he  made  me 
copy  it,  and  afterwards  when  the  President  spoke  to  him 
to  write  to  O.  P.  Rockwell  he  favored  me  to  do  that  al- 
though I  left  three  men  waiting  to  weigh  my  loading 
and  load  my  wagon.  The  fact  is  I  can  scarcely  ever  go 
to  council  but  Dr.  Richards  wants  me  to  do  his  writing, 
although  I  have  more  writing  to  do  as  clerk  of  the  camp 
than  I  can  possibly  do.  Moreover  I  have  to  unpack  the 
chest  and  wait  on  all  of  them  with  the  public  goods  in 
my  charge  which  keeps  me  busy  all  the  time.  Presi- 
dent Young.  Heber,  Dr.  Richards  and  Bishop  Whitney 
have  all  made  out  to  get  lumber  sawed  to  make  their 
wagons  comfortable  but  I  can't  get  enough  to  make  a 
hind  board  for  one  of  my  wagons,  which  has  none.  They 
are  tolerably  well  prepared  with  wagons  and  teams  but 
I  am  here  with  about  five  tons  of  stuff  and  only  six  wagons 
and  five  voke  of  oxen  to  take  it.  I  have  dealt  out  nearlv 


32  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

all  of  my  provisions  and  have  to  get  more  before  I  can 
go  on.  It  looks  as  if  I  had  to  be  a  slave  and  take  slave's 
fare  all  the  journey  for  it  has  worked  that  way  so  far. 
After  council  I  was  weighing  and  loading,  etc.,  until  night. 
We  had  some  rain  at  night. 

WEDNESDAY,  13TH.  The  morning  fair,  but  cloudy. 
Still  loading  my  wagons  and  preparing  to  move.  Presi- 
dent Young  and  Hebers  companies  have  gone  and  left 
me.  I  asked  Jones  and  Terry  what  provisions  I  should 
have  to  leave  them  while  they  put  in  the  crops.  They 
concluded  that  25  Ibs.  of  corn  meal  each,  and  from  25 
to  50  Ibs.  of  bacon  for  three  of  them  would  be  enough  for 
twenty  days.  I  think  so,  for  we  do  not  use  as  much  meat 
in  the  same  time  in  my  whole  family  and  as  to  25  Ibs.  of 
corn  meal  each  for  so  long  a  time,  it  is  far  more  than  my 
family  can  have.  I  have  also  to  supply  Horlick  with 
provisions  to  take  him  back  to  Nauvoo  and  have  kept 
four  of  them  since  they  came  here  while  they  are  to  work 
for  themselves.  All  this  continues  to  weaken  my  hands 
for  the  journey.  I  have  to  get  three  new  teamsters  and 
also  feed  them  while  the  others  are  living  on  my  food. 
Markham  came  in  the  evening  and  said  the  President 
had  sent  word  to  father  Bent  to  raise  cattle  enough  to 
take  my  load  to  the  new  place  tomorrow  morning  but  I 
cannot  go  because  my  horses  have  gone  to  the  mill  for 
meal.  Evening  it  commenced  raining  again  and  rained 
nearly  all  night. 

THURSDAY,  14-TH.  This  morning  is  fair,  but  cloudy 
and  like  for  more  rain.  Jones  has  concluded  to  leave 
for  Nauvoo  this  morning  and  leave  his  son  to  plant  for 
him.  I  have  given  him  and  Charles  A.  Terry  a  letter  of 


WILLIAM   CLAYTON'S  JOURXAL.  33 

recommendation.  Jones  asked  me  and  said  I  would  have 
to  leave  him  some  provisions  while  he  put  in  his  crop- 
hut  1  do  not  feel  to  do  it  for  I  think  it  is  far  more  reason- 
able  that  the  company  for  whom  he  has  been  working 
should  supply  him  instead  of  me  doing  it  out  of  the  little 
provisions  1  have.  I  have  left  Charles  and  Henry 
Terry  50  Ibs.  of  meal  and  14  Ibs.  of  bacon  besides  board- 
ing them  two  weeks  while  they  have  been  working  on 
their  farm.  I  went  to  see  Brother  Bent  about  the  teams 
and  from  him  learned  that  he  could  only  raise  three  yoke 
of  oxen  and  no  wagon.  I  went  to  see  Crisman  who  had 
promised  two  yoke  and  told  him  I  should  start  in  the 
morning  then  went  and  spent  the  day  fixing  the  loads, 
etc. 

FRIDAY.,  15TH.  This  morning  Crisman  called  and 
said  he  should  not  let  his  cattle  go  until  Brother  Miller 
returned.  I  then  concluded  to  take  what  teams  I  had 
and  take  my  wagons  and  go  on  a  few  miles.  I  borrowed 
two  yoke  of  oxen  from  Sister  Kay  and  started.  We  got 
the  wagons  over  the  river  and.  on  the  bluff  about  a  mile 
and  then  stopped  to  let  the  teams  feed.  I  walked  on  and 
met  Brothers  Miller,  Pitt,  Kay.  and  Hutchinson  with  a 
large  drove  of  cows  and  cattle.  I  told  Brother  Miller 
my  situation  and  the  request  of  the  President  but  I  could 
get  no  satisfaction.  \\&  moved  on  with  half  of  the 
wagons  and  I  selected  a  spot  over  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
from  timber.  They  then  went  back  for  the  other  wagons 
and  got  them  all  up  about  six  o'clock.  Reddings  have  come 
here  also,  and  Sister  Egan  with  one  or  two  others. 

SATURDAY,  16x11.  This  morning  is  fine  but  the 
weather  doesn't  look  like  being  fair  long.  I  have 

4 


34  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

concluded  to  send  two  wagons  through  and  wait  until 
the  teams  return  before  I  can  move  farther.  Swap  and 
Conrad  are  gone  with  all  the  teams  I  have  and  I 
have  sent  A.  Johnson's  cattle  back  because  they  were 
useless  unless  I  could  have  more.  The  day  was  very 
warm.  I  spent  the  day  mostly  reading.  Afternoon  Du- 
zett,  Hutchinson  and  Pitt  arrived  with  their  wagons. 

STNDAY,  I/TH.  Spent  the  day  mostly  reading. 
Weather  very  warm.  Afternoon  Bishop  Miller's  com- 
pany passed  but  he  did  not  leave  me  any  cattle  although 
he  has  plenty  and  many  cows.  This  agrees  with  his 
course,  for  from  about  two  months  before  we  left  Xauvoo 
to  the  present,  he  has  done  nothing  but  for  himself. 

MONDAY,  ISrn.  Morning  went  on  the  road  about 
two  miles  to  see  if  I  could  meet  Keller  and  Corbitt.  It 
rained  and  thundered  .some  and  continued  cloudy  through 
the  day. 

TUESDAY,  19Tii.  Spent  the  morning  reading,  after- 
wards went  fishing.  Some  teams  returned  from  camp 
and  said  that  some  from  Xauvoo  had  arrived  there  which 
started  two  weeks  ago  last  Saturday  and  that  Elder  Hyde 
had  advised  all  the  saints  to  move  over  the  river  as  fast 
as  possible  from  Xauvoo,  and  they  have  their  ferry  boats 
constantly  employed.  A  number  are  already  on  their 
way  here. 

WKI>. \K.sn.\y.  20ru.  This  morning  is  very  rainy  and 
cold.  Spun  twenty  yards  of  fish  line  and  tied  on  eleven 
hooks.  Swap  and  Conrad  returned  soon  after  eleven 
o'clock.  They  say  the  camp  is  about  thirty  miles  ahead. 
They  confirm  the  report  of  some  having  arrived  from 
Xauvoo  and  sav  thev  were  told  that  mv  father  is  on  his 


WILLIAM.  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  35 

way  here.  The  roads  are  lined  with  teams,  etc.,  qn  the 
other  road  north  of  this.  Horlick  came  this  afternoon 
for  more  victuals.  Although  he  is  a  good  wagon  maker 
arxl  carpenter,  he  is  either  unwilling  to  work  or  the  camp 
at  the  farms  is  unwilling  to  board  him  for  his  work  which 
I  hardly  believe.  It  seems  as  though  teamsters  are  re- 
solved to  live  on  me  till  they  eat  all  I  have  and  I  now 
lack  about  three  thousand  Ibs.  of  provisions  to  proceed 
with.  I  can  learn  of  no  one  who  has  fed  his  teamsters 
as  long  as  I  have  after  they  stopped  teaming  and  more- 
over, the  teamsters  started  with  church  property  but  I 
have  sustained  them  out  of  my  own  provisions.  Towards 
evening  it  was  fair  but  still  threatens  to  rain  again.  I 
cannot  yet  learn  a  word  from  Diantha  but  think  she  mu^t 
be  on  her  way.  My  family  is  yet  in  good  health  except 
Margaret  who  looks  sick  but  doesn't  complain. 

TurusDAY,  21sr.  Continued  raining  this  morning 
but  about  noon  it  began  to  be  fine.  About  five  o'clock  a 
heavy  thunder  storm  came  up  and  it  started  raining 
heavily.  Storm  after  storm  kept  coming  far  into  the 
night.  \Yilham  F.  Cahoon  called  on  his  way  up  between 
the  two  companies.  He  wanted  some  salt  but  I  had  none 
for  him. 

FRIDAY,  22xn.  This  morning  fine  but  cloudy, 
ground  wet  and  soft.  Wrote  some  in  the  camp  record. 
About  nine  o'clock  started  on  the  road  to  look  for  a  good 
camp  ground.-  James  started  at  the  same  time  on  horse- 
back to  see  if  he  could  meet  Keller.  I  went  about  three 
miles  and  waited  till  he  returned  but  no  news  from  Kel- 
ler. T  concluded  to  move  my  camp  about  three  miles  and 
sent  James  back  to  load  up  and  come  on.  I  waited  until- 


36  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

they  came.  It  was  after  five  o'clock  before  they  came  up, 
the  loads  being  heavy  and  the  teams  weak,  the  loads  being 
too  heavy  for  them.  We  are  now  camped  on  a  very  pleas- 
ant spot  not  far  from  timber.  We  have  camped  near  the 
summit  of  a  ridge  where  we  can  .see  a  long  way  on  both 
the  roads  leading  to  Miller's  mill  and  to  trie  next  camp. 
Soon  after  we  arrived  Horace  Whitney  passed.  I  sent 
word  to  the  President  to  send  me  more  teams.  I  told 
Horlick  we  could  not  board  him  any  longer  and  gave 
him  a  line  to  father  asking  him  to  board  him  until  he  re- 
turns. Have  borrowed  some  meal  from  Edward  Martin 
to  get  along.  If  Keller  doesn't  come  soon  we  shall  have 
to  obtain  something  to  eat  somewhere  or  go  short.  We 
have  nothing  left  to  eat  but  some  corn,  and  being*  short 
of  milk  we  can  not  cook  it  to  our  advantage.  James  and  I 
were  consulting  just  at  dusk  as  to  the  wisdom  of  one  of 
us  starting  out  to  try  and  meet  Keller  and  Corbitt  or  see 
if  we  could  learn  something  of  them.  We  both  felt  positive 
they  had  lost  their  horses.  While  we  were  talking  we  saw 
Keller  and  Horlick  riding  up  from  the  first  farm.  From 
Keller  we  learned  they  had  got  horses  and  loads  and  were 
coming  on  the  other  road  and  would  wait  till  we  came  up 
to  meet  them  if  we  thought  best.  He  said  the  guard  had 
all  returned  and  were  with  the  wagons.  This  was  joyful 
news  to  us  and  I  felt  my  heart  much  relieved. 

SATURDAY,  23RD.  James  started  out  early  to  meet  the 
wagons.  After  breakfast  we  started  on  the  road  and 
while  standing  Keller  came  up  and  said  it  was  about 
four  and  a  half  miles  to  where  the  other  road  joins  the 
main  road.  I  started  ahead  on  foot  and  after  traveling 
about  three  miles  came  up  to  the  teams  where  they  had 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  37 

waited  on  the  road.  When  1  got  up  the  guard  seemed 
pleased  to  see  me.  Captain  Allen  had  bought  about 
thirty-six  bushels  of  meal  and  200  Ibs.  of  bacon.  They 
would  not  receive  any  pay  for  it.  They  have  been  faithful 
and  diligent  and  have  done  much.  There  is  yet  $12.00  due 
them  from  the  meal  and  they  are  determined  I  shall  have 
that  too.  When  my  teams  came  up  \ve  put  the  meal  in 
the  wagons  and  started  on.  We  went  about  a  mile 
farther  to  Peter's  Bridge  where  we  concluded  to  camp 
for  the  night.  \Ve  arranged  our  loading  and  I  conclude  1 
to  let  Brother  Allen  have  the  wagon  and  team  in  his 
hands  which  is  church  property  to  send  back  to  Nauvoo 
for  his  family.  The  guard  made  out  a  list  of  provisions 
which  they  wished  me  to  leave  them  which  was  indeed 
very  little.  I  gave  them  four  pairs  of  shoes  and  prob- 
ably three  bushels  of  meal  which  is  all  the  remuneration 
they  would  accept  for  all  they  had  brought.  They 
seemed  well  satisfied. 

SUNDAY,  24rH.  This  morning  I  gave  certificates 
of  discharge  to  A.  Keller,  John  Horlick,  Orville  Allen, 
M.  A.  Dodge,  Tollman,  Starks,  Mecham,  Bartlet  and  P. 
R.  Wright.  Keller  and  Horlick  started  immediately  for 
Xauvoo  and  Wright  and  Dodge  soon  after.  I  concluded 
to  move  on  about  two  miles  to  where  Hutchinson  and 
Duzett  were  in  camp.  I  started  out  on  foot  and  most  of 
my  family  soon  after.  It  soon  began  to  rain  and  rained 
till  T  was  wet  through.  I  traveled  on  about  four  and 
a  half  miles  but  could  see  no  camp  near  timber.  I 
stopped  to  rest  at  a  post  .put  up  by  Stewart  where  the 
Racoon  fork  led  off.  While  there  Josiah  Arnold  passed 
on  his  wav  to  Miller's.  From  him  I  learned  that  there 


38  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

was  a  camp  ground  about  a  half  a  mile  farther.  I  went 
on  and  waited.  Before  any  of  the  wagons  arrived  James 
came  up.  Soon  after  news  arrived  that  Swap  had  broke 
his  wagon  tongue.  I  sent  James  to  help  bring  on  the 
loads.  We  only  started  with  three  wagons  and  left  three 
back  with  Corbitt  and  Martin.  The  teams  worked  hard 
all  day  and  at  half  past  nine  the  last  team  arrived  having 
taken  all  day  to  travel  about  five  miles. 

\UOXDAY,  25xH.  This  morning  I  sent  James  and 
Corbitt  to  go  and  trade  three  horses  and  some  harness 
for  cows.  About  noon  I  started  out  with  two  wagons 
and  left  one  and  about  three  loads  of  stuff  in  care  of  two 
of  the  guard.  After  we  had  traveled  about  three  miles  I 
met  a  messenger  from  the  camp  who  handed  me  two  let- 
ters, one  was  from  Diantha  and  one  from  Brother  \Yhit- 
aker  concerning  a  piece  of  land.  We  went  on  about  a 
mile  and  crossed  a  creek  where  we  waited  to  rest  our 
teams.  When  I  read  Diantha's  letter  it  gave  me  painful 
feelings  to  hear  of  her  situation.  After  resting  about  an 
hour  we  went  on  about  four  miles  farther  and  camped 
near  Father  Baker's  camp  on  a  creek.  It  was  night  be- 
fore we  got  supper  over.  I  found  several  men  going  back 
to  Nauvoo  for  their  families. 

TUESDAY,  26xn.  Wrote  an  answer  to  Whitaker's 
letter  and  also  one  to  Diantha.  We  started  on  about  eight 
o'clock  and  found  the  road  bad  and  many  bad  creeks 
where  the  bridges  had  been  washed  away.  After  travel- 
ing two  miles  one  of  my  wagons  loaded  with  corn  meal 
was  upset  in  a  hole.  But  after  about  an  hour's  labor  we 
got  the  loading  in.  The  wagon  was  not  much  damaged. 
We  proceeded  about  three  miles  farther  and  met  two 


WILLIAM;  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  39 

men  with  six  yoke  of  oxen  which  President  Young  had 
sent  to  meet  us.  This  was  a  great  relief  to  us  for  we  saw 
that  we  could  not  get  to  camp  to-day  because  of  our 
teams  being  so- worn  down.  We  rested  our  teams  about  an 
hour  and  then  started  on  at  a  good  pace.  We  found 
several  more  very  bad  creeks  to  pass  but  we  did  not  have 
much  difficulty.  Duzett  and  myself  drove  the  cows.  E  !- 
ward  Martin  drove  his  horses.  About  sundown  we  ar- 
rived in  camp,  having  traveled  about  thirteen  miles.  This 
place  is  called  Mt.  Pisgah  and  is  a  very  beautiful  situa- 
tion, the  prairie  rolling  and  rich,  skirted  with  beautiful 
groves  of  timber  on  the  main  fork  of  the  Grand  river. 
Soon  after  we  arrived  Elder  Kimball  came  to  welcome  us 
to  camp  and  then  came  Elder  Richards  and  family  and 
President  Young  who  all  seemed  glad  to  see  us  in  camp. 
WEDNESDAY,  27m.  This  morning  my  horses  and 
one  cow  and  several  of  the  oxen  are  missing.  I  went  to 
see  Bishop  Whitney  about  getting  teams  to  send  back  for 
the  loads  remaining  but  could  get  no  satisfaction  from 
him.  I  went  back  and  unloaded  two  wagons  on  the 
ground  and  about  the  same  time  saw  the  President  who 
said  he  would  send  for  them.  Elder  Kimball  sent  one 
wagon  and  the  President  sent  two.  President  Young  said 
they  intended  to  take  the  church  property  in  their  wagons 
and  take  it  on  to  Council  Bluffs  but  I  must  go  with  them 
and  leave  James  and  Corbitt  and  Egan  to  bring  on  the 
wagons  they  have,  etc.  I  cannot  think  they  under- 
stand my  situation  in  regard  to  the  teams  or  they  would 
make  some  definite  move  about  it.  They  intend  to  start 
in  a  day  or  two  and  I  tried  to  fix  the  wagons  in  good 
order  but  had  no  chance  to  get  even  one  fixed.  Spent 


40  \VIU.IAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

the  day  fixing"  up  my  tent  and  had  to  get  a  new  pole. 
Heber  took  my  other  one.  Afternoon  it  commenced 
gathering  for  a  storm  and  we  had  barely  time  to  get  the 
tent  up  and  the  things  under  it  before  it  began  to  rain 
and  continued  till  I  went  to  sleep.  George  Herring  and 
Snumway  arrived  here  last  night.  I  spoke  with  them  to- 
day. 

THURSDAY,  28xH.  The  morning  dull  and  foggy, 
ground  wet,  etc.  Went  fishing  some.  Evening  played 
with  Hutchinson  and  Pitt.  All  my  oxen,  horses  and  the 
cow  were  found.  I  went  out  this  morning  hunting  for 
them  on  foot.  Evening  raining. 

FRIDAY,  29xH.  The  weather  fine,  cool,  and  windy. 
Talked  with  Heber  some.  He  says  I  shall  have  teams. 
One  of  my  wagons  came  in  this  morning. 

SATURDAY,  30rn.  Went  and  borrowed  a  robe  and 
ornaments  from  Aaron  Farr  then  rode  with  Dr.  Richards 
about  three  miles  on  the  prairie.  There  were  five  others 
and  among  them  President  Young.  Two  tents  were 
brought  and  we  fixed  them  up  and  then  met  and  clothed. 
There  were  President  Young,  P.  P.  Pratt,  J.  Taylor,  Geo. 
A.  Smith,  A.  Lyman,  John  Smith,  N.  K.  Whit-iey.  D. 
Spencer.  O.  Spencer,  C.  C.  Rich,  E.  T.  Benson,  Wm. 
Huntington  and  myself.  Clothed  and  having  offered  up 
the  signs,  offered  up  prayer,  Heber  C.  Kimbau  being 
mouth.  We  then  conversed  awhile  and  appeared  again, 
Geo.  A.  Smith  being  mouth — A.  P.  Rockwood  and  Wm. 
Kimball  were  guarding  the  tent.  Prayers  were  offered 
that  we  might  be  delivered  from  our  enemies  and  have- 
teams  to  go  on  our  journey,  etc.  About  two  o'clock  we 
returned  to  camp.  Many  of  the  teams  were  coming  in 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  41 

T'ii<l  among-  the  rest,  the  teams  sent  back  for  my  loading 
which  all  arrived  tonight. 

STXDAV,  31sr.  Having  heard  that  Egan  was  near  I 
started  out  to  meet  him.  The  morning"  was  fine  hut  about 
eleven  o'clock  it  began  to  thunder.  I  went  about  two 
miles  and  before  I  got  back  without  seeing  Egan  it  rained 
heavily.  I  was  wet  through.  I  called  at  the  meeting  while 
President  Young  was  speaking.  It  rained  nearly  all  the 
afternoon.  Xoal  Richards  died. 

MONDAY,  JUNE  1,  1846.  Was  wet  in  the  morning 
and  windy  all  day.  The  council  got  me  four  wagons  and 
seven  yoke  of  oxen  to  take  church  property. 

TUESDAY,  2.\D.  Still  windy  but  fair.  President 
Young  has  again  stated  I  lack  some  cattle  yet.  Fixing 
my  wagon,  etc.  Have  about  teams  enough  but  lack 
teamsters. 

WEDNESDAY.  SRD.  Fixing  my  wagons.  Concluded 
to  start  on.  My  teams  were  scattered  but  we  started  with 
what  we  had.  We  got  over  the  river  at  three  o'clock. 
one  yoke  of  cattle  still  missing.  I  sent  the  men  hunting 
for  them  but  they  were  not  found. 

THURSDAY,  4-TH.  Again  sent  the  men  hunting  cat- 
tle. The  day  was  very  cold  and  windy,  almost  as  cold  as 
winter.  I  spent  the  day  fixing  a  wagon  for  Diantha  ex- 
pecting her  on  in  about  two  weeks.  Lucy  Walker  called 
in  this  afternoon  and  expressed  sorrow  on  account  of  the 
treatment  of  Heber's  family  toward  her.  Amos  Fielding 
called  on  his  way  to  the  President's  camp.  Towards 
evening  it  rained  and  there  was  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
rainbows  I  ever  saw  in  my  life.  We  could  see  its  bril- 
liant reflection  within  a  few  rods  of  us.  In  the  evening 


42  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

Douzett  came  for  his  cow  which  had  tarried  writh  ours. 
He  concluded  to  stay  over  night.  My  teamsters  returned 
without  finding-  the  cattle. 

FRIDAY,  STH.  Sent  all  the  men  expect  James  Doug- 
las to  hunt  the  cattle.  About  nine  o'clock  my  adopted 
son  Thomas  Corbich  returned  with  them.  I  then  waited 
till  two  o'clock  for  the  men  to  return,  three  of  them  being 
still  absent.  I  have  now  eleven  wagons,  sixteen  yoke 
of  oxen,  six  cows,  five  horses,  and  six  teamsters,  besides 
my  brother  James,  whose  names  are  Conrad  Neil,  Levi  N. 
Kendall,  James  Douglas,  Milton  F.  Bartlett,  Willard 
Smith,  and  A.  E.  Hinkel,  four  of  the  latter  are  new  to  me 
and  do  not  seem  to  know  much  about  teaming.  At  two 
o'clock  I  concluded  to  start  on  and  after  about  an  hour's 
preparation  we  started.  The  men  took  two  teams  each. 
I  drove  the  cows  on  foot.  The  roads  are  a  great  deal  bet- 
ter. We  traveled  about  six  miles  and  camped  on  a  hill 
beyond  nice  timber.  Pitt  is  here  and  Brother  Taylor's 
camp.  Amos  called  on  his  way  back  to  England.  He 
stayed  and  conversed  a  while.  I  will  here  say  that  the 
oxen  put  in  by  Brothers  Olive  and  Rich  to  take  church 
property  are  very  poor  and  some  of  them  scarcely  of  any 
use.  We  arrived  here  about  half  past  six  o'clock.  The 
day  has  been  cold,  fine  and  fair. 

SATURDAY,  6rn.  The  morning  very  fine.  We  started 
out  at  eight  o'clock ;  Pitt  joined  with  us.  I  went  on 
foot  to  drive  the  cows.  About  ten  o'clock  we  had  a  little 
rain.  After  traveling  about  .seven  miles  we  arrived  at  a 
piece  of  timber  where  the  patriarch  John  Smith  was  rest- 
ing. We  concluded  to  rest  our  teams  here  and  stopped 
at  half  past  eleven.  At  one  o'clock  we  started  again  and 


WILLIAM!  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  43 

soon  after  had  a  heavy  thunder  shower.  I  was  about  a 
mile  ahead  of  the  wagons  and  having  no  shelter  was  soon 
completely  drenched  with  rain.  It  got  very  cold  while 
raining.  As  soon  as  the  wagons  came  up  we  stopped 
till  the  shower  was  over  which  did  not  last  long.  We  then 
pursued  our  journey  and  at  six  o'clock  camped  on  the 
open  prairie  a  long  way  from  timber,  having  traveled 
about  sixteen  miles.  After  the  shower  the  day  was  fine. 
I  was  very  tired  and  wet  and  after  eating  a  little  went  to 
bed.  Vilate  Ruth  is  weaning  from  the  breast  today  which 
makes  her  cry. 

SUNDAY,  7TH.  Inasmuch  as  we  were  not  near  tim- 
ber we  concluded  to  travel  on  till  we  found  some.  We 
started  at  eight  o'clock  and  traveled  till  two,  being  about 
nine  miles,  when  we  came  to  a  little  grove  of  timber  and 
just  beyond  a  bad  bottom  of  prairies.  I  concluded  to  pass 
this  and  camp  on  the  adjoining  ridge.  I  drove  the  cows 
all  day  on  foot.  My  feet  were  sore  and  blistered.  The  day 
was  very  fine.  Sometime  after  we  arrived  Father  John 
Smith  came  and  camped  just  below  us. 

MONDAY.  STH.  The  weather  fine.  Traveled  about 
ten  miles,  the  roads  being  very  hilly  and  uneven.  We 
camped  on  a  bottom  near  timber.  I  went  fishing  and  had 
good  success.  I  drove  the  cows  till  noon  then  rode  with 
family. 

TUESDAY.  9rn.  Weather  fine  and  hot.  Went  fish- 
ing at  daybreak  with  James  and  had  good  luck.  At  nine 
we  went  on.  I  rode  again.  Afternoon  three  Indians  over- 
took us  and  begged  some  bread.  We  camped  on  a  bot- 
tom beside  Coleman  and  others,  having  traveled  about 
twelve  miles.  Two  Indians  are  here  and  we  have  learned 


44  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

their  camp  is  only  three  miles  from  us.  President  Young 
left  word  to  go  in  companies  from  here  to  avoid  being 
plundered  by  the  Indians.  We  had  our  cattle  tied  up 
and  a  guard  over  them  through  the  night. 

WEDNESDAY,  lOra.  Went  fishing  at  daybreak  and 
caught  thirty-six.  Weather  hot.  We  started  about  nine 
o'clock  and  found  the  roads  good  but  over  hills  and  ra- 
vines all  the  day.  At  six  o'clock  we  camped  in  sight  of 
the  Pottawattamie  Indian  village.  When  about  two  miles 
from  it  they  discovered  us  coming  and  we  soon  saw  a 
number  of  them  riding  towards  us.  Some  had  bells  on 
their  horses  which  frightened  our  horses  and  cattle. 
James  and  I  took  the  horses  and  let  the  others  take  the 
oxen  the  best  way  they  coukl.  Some  of  the  Indians  fol- 
lowed our  wagons  and  inquired  often  for  whiskey.  We 
had  to  pass  some  timber  and  a  river  before  we  arrived 
at  their  village  which  is  situated  on  a  very  beautiful  ridge 
skirted  by  timber  and  beautiful  rolling  prairie.  Before 
we  arrived  at  the  timber  it  seemed  that  the  whole  village 
had  turned  out,  men,  women,  and  children,  some  on 
horses  and  many  on  foot.  Their  musicians  came  and 
played  while  we  passed  them.  They  seemed  to  escort 
our  wagons  and  asked  if  we  were  Mormons.  When  we 
told  them  we  were  they  seemed  highly  pleased.  It  took 
us  some  time  to  cross  the  bridge  over  the  river  and  then 
we  were  perfectly  surrounded  by  Indians  apparently  from 
curiosity  and  friendship.  They  watched  us  cross  the 
bridge  and  others  followed  on  with  us.  The  boys  seemed 
to  learn  the  words  our  teamsters  used  to  drive  the  cattle 
and  would  run  and  in  their  way  help  to  drive.  They  mani- 
fested every  feeling  of  friendship  and  nothing  unkind 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  45 

or  unfriendly  transpired.  Soon  after  we  passed  the 
bridge  we  were  met  by  Jas.  W.  Cummings  and  the  breth- 
ren from  Shariton  Ford  with  John  L.  Butler  to  bring 
Emmet's  company  to  meet  us.  The  cattle  have  been  with 
Emmet's  company  from  the  time  they  left  Nauvoo.  The 
road  leads  within  about  two  hundred  yards  of  the  In- 
dians and  I  wanted  to  go  about  two  miles  farther  to  save 
the  necessity  of  having  a  guard  but  soon  after  we  left  the 
village  we  had  to  ford  a  stream  which  was  deep  and  bad 
to  cross.  I  then  concluded  to  camp  on  the  ridge  above 
the  ford  and  in  sight  of  the  village,  being  about  a  half 
or  three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  them.  Many  of  them 
followed  us,  men.  women  and  children  and  watched  all 
our  movements  but  about  dark  all  departed  in  peace. 
They  seemed  well  pleased  with  their  visit.  They 
certainly  showed  every  mark  of  friendship  ann 
kindness  imaginable  and  treated  ,us  as  brothers.  \Ve 
learned  that  the  chief's  daughter  was  buried  today.  We 
have  traveled  about  fifteen  miles.  From  Cummings  we 
learned  that  Emmet  had  left  his  things  belonging  to  the 
company  with  him.  Part  of  the  company  has  crossed  at 
St.  Louis  and  are  now  on  the  line  here.  The  agent  of 
the  U.  S.  refuses  to  let  them  pass.  The  other  part  of  the 
company  are  thirty  miles  below  the  bluffs  expecting  us 
to  cross  there. 

THURSDAY,  HTH.  Many  of  the  Indians  again  came 
to  the  camp  with  the  same  friendly  feeling.  Some  squaws 
came  to  trade,  We  started  soon  after  nine,  the  weather 
being  very  hot.  We  traveled  over  about  five  miles  of  very 
uneven  road.  The  rest  was  good.  We  had  to  travel  till 
late  before  we  came  to  water.  We  camped  on  a  small 


46  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

creek  where  Coleman  and  Tanner  were  camped,  having 
traveled  about  fourteen  miles. 

FRIDAY,  12TH.  Traveled  about  three  miles,  the 
weather  being  very  hot.  We  camped  on  a  beautiful  ridge 
where  the  main  body  had  evidently  left  but  little  before, 
beside  a  large  rapid  stream.  I  concluded  to  .stay  here 
until  Monday  to  rest  our  teams  and  give  their  shoulders 
a  chance  to  heal,  several  of  which  were  very  sore. 

SATURDAY,  13TH.  Fixing  a  wagon,  etc.  The 
weather  very  hot.  Evening  killed  one  of  our  cows.  The 
mosquitoes  here  began  to  be  very  troublesome,  there 
being  so  many  of  them  and  so  bloodthirsty. 

SUNDAY,  14-TH.  The  weather  very  hot  and  the  mo- 
squitoes tremendously  bad.  This  morning  I  weighed 
bread  for  each  man  at  the  rate  of  a  half  a  pound  a  day. 
They  seem  very  much  dissatisfied  and  growl  to  each  other 
very  much.  I  weigtted  for  my  family  of  ten  as  much  as 
I  weighed  for  six  teamsters.  They  wrere  dissatisfied  but 
we  had  some  left.  They  have  hitherto  had  all  they  wanted 
three  times  a  day  and  above  this  have  eaten  up  a  bag  of 
crackers  unknown  to  me  which  I  had  reserved  for  the 
mountains.  The  mosquitoes  being  so  bad,  I  concluded 
to  go  on  a  little  piece.  We  started  at  1 :00  P.  M.  and 
traveled  until  four  when  we  arrived  at  a  small  clear 
stream  having  traveled  about  six  miles.  I  camped  here 
and  in  the  evening  told  the  men  a  part  of  what  I  thought 
of  their  conduct. 

MONDAY,  15TH.  The  morning  cooler  but  mo- 
squitoes bad.  Our  horses  were  missing  and  we  were  de- 
tained till  ten  o'clock  before  we  could  start.  The  horses 
had  gone  back  to  where  we  left  yesterday.  We  traveled 


WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  47 

till  sundown  before  we  came  to  water,  being  about  twelve 
miles.  \Ve  camped  near  to  C.  L.  Whitney. 

TUESDAY,  16TH.  Started  at  7.30  and  traveled  about 
twelve  miles  when  we  came  in  sight  of  the  Missouri  river 
and  the  main  camp  about  five  miles  farther.  We  soon 
learned  that  some  of  the  camp  were  coming  back  to  find 
water.  There  being  no  water  where  we  were,  we  moved 
back  about  two  miles  to  a  spring  an<l  there  camped  ex- 
pecting to  stay  until  we  should  learn  what  to  do. 

\\'i:])M:si).\v.  I/TH.  This  morning  Kay  and  Du- 
zett  rode  up  and  said  they  were  anxiously  expecting  us 
at  the  camp  and  wanted  us  to  go  immediately.  I  went 
to  the  camp  with  them  to  look  out  a  place  while  my  men 
yoked  up  and  brought  the  wagons.  When  I  arrived  I 
saw  1  leber.  He  seemed  pleased  to  see  me  and  went  with 
me  to  look  out  a  place  to  camp.  I  fixed  a  spot  between 
President  Young's  camp  and  Bishop  Miller's.  Heber 
said  the  twelve  had  an  invitatioa  to  go  to  the  village  to 
the  agent's  to  dinner  and  they  wanted  the  band  to  go 
with  them.  I  went  back  to  meet  the  wagons  which  had 
been  detained  on  account  of  some  of  the  cattle  being 
missing.  As  soon  as  my  wagons  arrived  I  got  ready 
and  started  in  Heber's  carriage  with  Heber.  Bishop  Whit- 
ney, and  Smithies.  Edward  Martin.  Pitt,  Hutchinson,  Kay 
and  Duzett  rode  in  the  other  carriage.  When  we  arrived 
at  Mr.  Mitchell's,  the  agent's  place,  we  were  introduced 
to  him  one  by  one.  We  then  played  and  Kay  sang  until 
about  five  o'clock  when  we  returned.  This  village  is  sit- 
uated but  a  little  distance  from  the  river,  probably  fifty 
rods.  It  is  composed  of  twelve  or  fifteen  blocks,  houses 
without  glass  in  the  windows,  and  is  tlie  noted  place 


48  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

where  the  Lamanites  for  years  held  their  council.  The 
inhabitants  are  composed  of  Lamanites,  half  breeds  and 
a  few  white  folks.  I  had  an  introduction  to  Sarrapee  an 
Indian  trader.  We  arrived  home  just  at  dusk. 

THURSDAY,  ISxn.  Fixing  a  wagon  all  -day.  Even- 
ing went  fishing.  Spoke  to  Bishop  Whitney  about  some 
more  teams. 

FRIDAY,  19xn.  Fixing  wagons  and  preparing  to 
send  off  some  things  to  trade.  Evening  went  fishing. 
Went  with  the  band  to  hold  a  concert  at  the  village.  Many 
went  from  the  camp.  The  Indians  and  half  breeds  col- 
lected $10.10  and  gave  it  to  us  and  the  agent  Mr.  Mitchel 
gave  a  dinner  to  all  that  came. 

SUNDAY,  21sr.  At  home  until  evening.  At  5:00  met 
with  the  brethren  of  the  camp  and  acted  as  clerk  while 
they  selected  men  to  build  the  boat. 

MONDAY,  22ND.  Fixing  my  wagons.  The  day  was 
windy  and  cold.  I  was  informed  yesterday  that  Diantha 
is  twenty  miles  back  from  Mt.  Pisgah  with  her  father 
still  farther  back.  They  have  sent  her  chest  on  to  Pisgah 
and  she  is  with  Loren.  I  partly  made  up  my  mind  to 
start  in  the  morning  and  bring  her. 

TUESDAY,  23m  This  morning  I  got  my  food 
ready  to  start  after  Diantha  but  Yilate  Ruth"  seemed  quite 
sick  and  I  concluded  not  to  start.  We  took  the  teams 
and  went  to  the  village  to  pick  gooseberries  but  it  rained 
nearly  all  the  time  we  were  gone.  I  bought  a  scythe  and 
some  other  things  and  tried  to  trade  a  watch  for  a  yoke 
of  cattle.  Major  Mitchel  offered  me  three  yoke  for  the 
gold  watch.  We  got  home  about  3  :00  o'clock.  I  then 
went  and  told  the  President  about  Mitchel's  offer  and  he 


WILLIAM   CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  49 

told  me  to  sell  it.  It  was  so  cold  and  wet  and  windy  we 
went  to  bed  early  and  soon  after  we  got  to  bed,  Heber 
and  Dr.  Richards  came  to  my  wagon  with  two  letters 
from  Diantha,  one  dated  Nauvoo,  May  17,  1846,  the  other 
Big  Prairie,  June  18th.  She  tells  that  she  is  sent  on  by 
her  father  and  is  with  Loren  and  is  very  anxious  that  I 
should  bring  her  or  send  for  her.  I  made  up  my  mind 
to  start  tomorrow.  The  night  was  very  storm}'  with 
strong  winds  and  heavy  rains. 

WEDNESDAY,  24iH.  The  morning  wet  and  cold.  I 
went  over  to  President  Young  and  told  him  where  I  was 
going  and  what  for.  He  said  he  would  get  the  cattle 
for  me.  I  also  spoke  to  Heber  and  he  said :  "Go  and 
prosper."  At  1 1 :00  I  went  to  council  and  President 
Young,  Kimball  and  Taylor  concluded  also  to  go  to 
Pisgah  after  the  cannon.  I  started  at  two  o'clock  ;t 
then  being  fair.  At  five  o'clock  I  passed  Father  Knowl- 
ton's  company  thirteen  miles  from  camp  and  at  seven 
passed  Laharpe's  company  and  inquired  of  Brother 
Burgham  and  Freeman  about  Diantha  but  could  not  learn 
much  from  them.  Brother  Ezra  Bickford  was  here  on 
his  way  back  to  Nauvoo.  He  said  he  was  tired  from 
riding  on  horseback  and  asked  if  I  would  let  him  go 
with  me  to  Pisgah  and  use  his  horse  in  the  wagon.  I 
told  him  to  come  on.  I  soon  found  it  made  a  difference 
in  the  load.  We  went  on  about  two  miles  and  stopped 
at  dark  on  the  middle  of  the  prairie  near  no  water.  After 
feeding  we  lay  down  to  rest.  We  had  several  heavy 
showers  through  the  night. 

THURSDAY,  25xH.  This  morning  arose  at  four 
o'clock  and  moved  our  wagon  a  little  to  fresh  grass  to  let 

5 


50  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

the  horses  feed,  they  being  tied  to  it.  It  is  fair,  but 
cloudy.  We  started  again  at  5  :30  A.  M.,  traveled  till  10 :00 
then  rested  till  2 :00  and  then  traveled  until  dark,  making 
thirty-one  miles.  We  camped  just  beyond  the  Indian  vil- 
lage in  the  midst  of  a  severe  thunder  storm.  It  rained 
most  of  the  day  and  the  roads  were  bad. 

FRIDAY,  26TH.  Did  not  start  until  after  seven. 
Morning  fair,  roads  bad.  After  traveling  about  ,six  miles 
we  found  Horace  Clark  and  others  camped  on  one 
side  of  a  small  stream  and  Orson  Spencer  on  the  other 
side.  The  creek  was  full  of  water  to  the  bank  and  in  the 
deepest  place  about  six  feet  over  the  bridge  and  a  part 
of  the  bridge  washed  away.  We  tarried  until  3  :00  o'clock 
and  then  concluded  to  try  to  get  over.  Walter  L.  Davis, 
and  Wm.  D.  Huntington  volunteered  to  help  us  over.  We 
unloaded  the  wagon  box  for  a  boat,  taking  a  few  of  our 
things  over  at  a  time.  When  we  got  them  all  over  we 
swam  the  horses  over,  loaded  up,  and  at  5.00  o'clock 
started  again  and  went  till  near  nine  having  traveled  about 
sixteen  miles. 

SATURDAY,  2/TH.  The  day  was  fine  and  we  traveled 
about  thirty-eight  miles  and  camped  on  the  prairie  about 
eight  miles  from  Pisgah.  During  the  day  we  passed  some 
U.  S.  officers  on  their  way  to  see  President  Young  and  the 
council.  We  afterwards  learned  that  they  professed  to 
be  going  to  the  authorities  of  the  church  by  order  of  che 
President  of  Lhe  United  States  to  raise  five  hundred  vol- 
unteer Mormons  to  defend  Santa  Fe,  etc. 

SUNDAY,  28rH.  At  daybreak  it  rained  again.  We 
started  at  four  o'clock  and  arrived  at  Pisgah  at  eight. 
Had  some  conversation  with  Father  Huntington  and  C.  C. 


WILLIAM   CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  51 

Rich.  We  fed  and  at  nine  .o'clock  started  again.  \Ve 
soon  ,saw  Brother  Woodruff.  He  was  glad  to  see  me  and 
we  conversed  together  some  time.  From  him  I  learned 
that  Missouri  had  sent  up  a  committee  to  Pisgah  to  search 
for  forts  and  cannon,  etc.  He  says  the  Missourians  are 
terrified  and  many  are  moving  from  the  back  to  the  in- 
terior settlements.  He  also  stated  that  we  have  a 
friend  in  the  British  Parliament  and  the  British  had  held 
a  private  council  in  relation  to  the  treatment  of  the  U.  S. 
towards  us.  Britain  is  making  great  preparations  for 
war.  They  have  sent  ten  thousand  troops  to  Canada  and 
a  fleet  around  Cape  Horn  to  Oregon.  They  are  intend- 
ing to  arm  the  slaves  of  the  south  and  have  their  agents 
in  the  Indian  country  trying  to  bring  them  in  war  to  fight 
the  U.  S.  After  we  left  Elder  Woodruff  we  passed  on 
and  soon  met  Sister  Durpee  and  Brother  Lott  and  his 
company.  He  said  Diantha  was  back  about  four  miles. 
Soon  after  we  met  Orville  Allen  and  from  him  learned 
that  Diantha  was  back  at  least  twelve  miles.  We  con- 
tinued on  and  at  two  o'clock  fed.  We  arrived  at  Father 
Chase's  between  four  and  five  o'clock.  Diantha  was  very 
glad  to  see  me  and  burst  into  tears.  My  little  boy  is  far 
beyond  all  my  expectations.  He  is  very  fat  and  well 
formed  and  has  a  noble  countenance.  They  are  both 
well  and  I  feel  to  thank  my  heavenly  Father  for  his  mer 
cies  to  them  and  Father  Chase  and  to  his  family  and  may 
the  Lord  bless  them  for  it,  and  oh  Lord,  bless  my  family 
and  preserve  them  forever.  Bless  my  Diantha  and  my 
boy  and  preserve  their  lives  on  the  earth  to  bring  honor 
to  Thy  name  and  give  us  a  prosperous  journey  back  again 
is  the  prayer  of  thy  servant  William.  Amen.  At  night 


52  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

we  had  a  heavy  thunder  storm.    It  rained  very  heavily. 

MONDAY,  29xH.  The  morning  is  cool  and  cloudy, 
the  ground  very  wet.  Brother  Bickford  is  gone  to  Nau- 
voo.  Left  Father  Chase's  company  about  10.30  A.  M. 
They  kindly  furnished  us  with  bread  stuffs  sufficient  to 
last  us  to  camp.  We  arrived  at  Mt.  Pisgah  and  .stayed 
near  Father  Huntington's. 

TUESDAY,  30rH.  This  morning  in  council  with  Pres- 
ident Huntington,  Rich  and  Benson  until  nine  o'clock  A. 
M.  Took  breakfast  with  Elder  Rich  and  then  started  on. 
We  passed  Brothers  Woodruff,  and  Lott  and  their  com- 
panies about  twelve  miles  from  Pisgah.  After  traveling 
about  twenty-six  miles  we  turned  onto  the  big  prairie  for 
the  night.  The  weather  fine  and  roads  good. 

WEDNESDAY,  JULY  1,  1846.  P.  P.  Pratt  passed 
about  six  o'clock.  We  afterwards  learned  that  he  was 
going  on  express  to  Pisgah  to  raise  the  500  volunteers  to 
go  to  Santa  Fee.  After  traveling  about  seven  miles  \vt 
rested  with  Brother  Weeks  and  ate  breakfast,  then  went 
on  till  two  o'clock  and  stopped  to  feed.  We  continued  on 
till  dark,  having  traveled  about  seventeen  miles. 

THURSDAY,  2ND.  Having  lost  the  horses  during  the 
night  I  went  back  four  miles  to  hunt  them.  I  met  some- 
one and  enquired  about  them,  asking  if  he  had  not  seen 
them.  Went  back  to  camp  and  ate  a  little  and  afterwards 
found  them  about  a  mile  west.  We  started  about  ten 
o'clock  and  at  sundown  passed  the  Indian  village  and  the 
stream  at  which  we  previously  camped.  We  camped 
about  two  miles  west  of  the  Indian  village. 

FRIDAY,  SRD.  Started  early  and  went  about  four 
rhiles  to  a  creek  where  we  ate  breakfast.  The  dav  verv 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  53 

hot  but  we  traveled  about  twenty-five  miles.  We  met 
President  Young,  Heber  Kimball,  and  Dr.  Richards  going 
back  to  raise  volunteers.  They  feel  that  this  is  a  good 
prospect  for  our  deliverance  and  if  we  -do  not  do  it  we  are 
downed.  We  went  on  and  camped  near  Hiram  Clark 
and  took  supper  with  him. 

SATURDAY,  4xH.  This  morning  my  horses  were 
missing  and  five  from  Clark's  company  were  missing.  I 
found  them  a  little  west  of  the  camp  and  started  on. 
Diantha  having  eaten  nothing  this  morning  I  tried  to  buy 
some  bread  but  could  not  get  it  till  I  got  home.  I  ar- 
rived at  three  o'clock  and  found  my  little  Vilate  sick,  the 
rest  all  well.  I  went  over  to  Council  at  Captain  Allen's 
tent. 

SUNDAY,  STH.  At  home  all  day.  Conrad  has  left 
and  gone  to  Elder  Hyde's.  The  weather  is  very  hot.  My 
traders  have  got  back  and  brought  twenty  bushels  of 
corn,  but  only  one  of  wheat. 

MONDAY,  6xn.  Spent  the  day  fixing  wagons.  Day 
very  hot.  Bishop  Whitney  called  to  see  us.  They  are 
getting  over  the  river  as  fast  as  possible  but  it  is  slow 
work. 

THURSDAY,  9xn.  Spent  the  two  previous  days  fix- 
ing wagons  and  today  I  went  down  to  the  river  to  see 
about  crossing,  etc.  Took  my  family  with  me. 

FRIDAY,  lOm.  Fixing  my  wagons,  also  Saturday 
unpacked  the  dry  goods  wagon  and  repacked  it. 

SUNDAY,  12xH.  Went  to  the  meeting  at  Elder  Tay- 
lor's camp.  In  the  evening  President  Young,  Kimball 
and  Richards  returned.  They  requested  me  to  go  to 
Taylor's  to  council.  I  went  and  tarried  till  dark,  wrote 


54  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

a  letter  to  the  Quadrille  band  to  meet  tomorrow  also 
wrote  orders  for  all  the  men  in  camp  to  meet. 

MONDAY,  13xH.  Went  to  the  general  meeting  and 
played  with  the  band  and  then  kept  minutes.  They  got 
three  companies  of  43  each  and  half  of  a  fourth  com- 
pany. All  my  teamsters  have  enlisted.  I  am  now  desti- 
tute of  help.  Edward  Martin  is  advised  to  go  and  leave 
his  family  in  my  charge.  I  have  still  four  yoke  of  oxen 
missing  and  I  do  not  know  where  to  find  them.  Last 
night  James  was  seized  with  a  fit  and  is  quite  unwell  to- 
day, mostly  insensible.  Vilate  Ruth  is  quite  sick  and  on 
the  whole  my  situation  is  rather  gloomy.  The  meeting 
adjourned  at  five  till  tomorrow  at  eight,  after  which  the 
company  danced  till  dark. 

TUESDAY,  14xH.  I  went  over  to  meeting  this  morn- 
ing and  told  the  President  my  situation.  He  consented 
for  me  to  go  back  to  my  camp  to  see  to  things.  I  came 
back  but  feel  very  unwell.  Martin's  youngest  child  died 
at  1 :30  p.  m. 

WEDNESDAY,  15TH.  Went  with  Edward  Martin  to 
bury  his  child  on  a  high  bluff  south  of  the  camp.  We 
buried  it  between  two  small  oak  trees,  a  little  east  of 
them,  the  babe's  head  to  the  east.  After  returning  Heber 
sent  word  for  us  to  cross  the  creek  to  the  other  bluff 
where  Elder  Taylor  is  camped.  We  got  some  of  the 
cattle  together  and  took  part  of  the  wagons  over  and 
then  returned  for  the  remainder.  As  soon  as  we  got 
there  a  message  came  that  the  President  wished  the 
band  to  go  to  the  village.  We  accordingly  started  but 
when  we  got  there  we  found  nobody  there  and  after  a 
little  trading  we  returned  home. 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  55 

THURSDAY,  16xH.  Hunting  my  horses  to  take 
Diantha  to  see  her  father's  folks  who  arrived  yesterday. 
In  the  afternoon  we  started  out  and  went  about  three 
miles  from  here.  They  appeared  very  glad  to  see  us.  \Ye 
got  home  again  at  dark. 

FRIDAY,  I/TII.     Went  fishing. 

SATURDAY,  18TH.  Went  to  the  village  to  play  with 
the  band  for  the  volunteers.  They  danced  till  near  sun- 
down when  we  returned  home. 

SUNDAY,  19TH.  In  the  wagon  till  evening.  Sister 
Farr  came  to  see  us.  Diantha  and  I  went  home  with  her 
in  the  evening. 

MONDAY,  20rn.  In  the  morning  fixing  for  our  con- 
cert. Afternoon  the  band  came  with  their  wives  and  we 
played  and  danced  till  dark.  President  Young  made  some 
appropriate  remarks  exhorting  the  saints  to  prayer,  etc. 

TUESDAY,  21sT.  This  morning  it  rained  very  heavily. 
Went  to  council  at  Elder  Pratt' s  camp.  The  council  ap- 
pointed a  council  of  twelve  to  preside  here,  viz.  Isaac 
Moreley,  Geo.  W.  Harris,  James  Allred,  Thos.  Grover, 
Phineas  Richards,  Herman  Hyde,  Wm.  Peck  Andrew  H. 
Perkins,  Henry  W.  Miller.  Daniel  Spencer,  J.  H.  Hales 
and  John  Murdock.  I  wrote  a  letter  informing  them  of 
their  appointment  also  instructing  them  not  to  let  any  pass 
over  the  river  unless  they  could  be  in  time  to  go  to  Grand 
Island  and  cut  hay,  to  watch  over  the  church,  establish 
schools  for  the  winter,  etc.  I  spent  the  remainder  of 
the  day  at  the  creek.  I  asked  the  President  what  I  should 
do  but  could  get  no  answer.  I  have  not  been  able  to  get 
any  satisfaction  from  any  of  the  council  as  to  what  I 
should  do  and  am  totallv  at  a  loss  to  know  whether  to 


56  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

tarry  here  or  go  on.  My  provisions  are  nearly  out  and 
my  teamsters  all  gone  an*d  nearly  all  the  cattle  strayed 
away  and  no  one  to  hunt  them  except  James  and  Corbitt 
and  they  are  sick. 

WEDNESDAY,  22ND.  Fixing  a  wagon  for  Margaret 
and  re-loading  some  wagons. 

THURSDAY,  23RD.  Unpacking  church  property. 
Found  considerable  of  it  very  much  damaged  with  wet. 
I  put  it  out  and  dried  it  well  and  repacked  it.  Evening 
went  with  Diantha  to  see  her  folks. 

FRIDAY,  24-TH .    Regulating  the  loading,  etc. 

SATURDAY,  25TH.  Bought  357  pounds  of  flour  ut 
$2.50  per  hundred  and  carried  it  about  three  hundred 
yards  to  my  wagons  then  spent  the  day  fixing  wagon 
covers.  Evening  went  to  Brother  Farr's.  About  11:00 
o'clock  a  storm  arose  and  it  soon  began  to  rain  heavily 
and  a  while  after  blew  a  perfect  hurricane.  The  thunder 
was  awful  and  the  rain  poured  in  torrents  for  about  a  half 
an  hour. 

SUNDAY,  26TH.  This  morning  the  tent  is  down, 
wagons  drenched  and  everything  looks  gloomy  enough. 
Scarcely  a  tent  in  the  camp  was  left  standing  and  many 
wagon  covers  torn.  A  report  is  circulated  that  a  cow 
was  killed  by  lightning.  Much  damage  is  done  to  wagons, 
provisions,  etc.  The  cow  was  killed  about  200  yards 
west  of  my  wagons.  There  was  a  tout  struck  also  but 
no  persons  hurt.  I  went  to  meeting  and  heard  Benson 
and  Taylor  preach.  Afternoon  at  my  wagons.  Even- 
ing Bishop  Whitney,  President  Young  and  Kimball 
called.  I  made  out  a  bill  of  goods  for  them  to  send  east 


\\  ILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  57 

by  Robert  Pierce.  They  ordered  me  to  go  down  to  the 
river  tomorrow. 

MONDAY,  27 in.  Loading  wagons,  packing,  etc., 
preparing  to  start.  Last  night  I  engaged  Pelatiah  Brown 
as  a  teamster.  We  started  soon  after  noon.  I  drove  the 
cows  and  James,  Corbitt  and  Brown  the  teams  with  twelve 
wagons.  We  had  to  leave  one  cow  four  yoke  of  oxen 
and  two  horses  on  the  ridge,  being  missing.  We  got 
down  about  six  o'clock.  Bishop  Whitney  passed  anr] 
said  I  should  not  get  over  the  river  tomorrow  and  I  sup- 
pose we  shall  have  to  wait  some  days.  James  and  Cor- 
bitt are  both  sick  and  discouraged  on  account  of  having 
so  little  help  and  so  many  cattle,  etc.,  to  look  after.  They 
have  a  hard  time  of  it  but  I  can  see  no  prospects  of  its 
being  better. 

TUESDAY,  28iH.  James  and  Corbitt  started  back  to 
hunt  the  cattle.  I  went  to  the  village  and  received  $12.00 
of  Larpey  for  the  cordage  I  sold  to  Allen,  $3.50  is  yet 
my  due.  I  then  went  and  bought  some  flour  of  Tanner. 
While  we  were  weighing  it  a  storm  arose  and  it  rained 
and  thundered  and  lightninged  throughout  the  day  and 
nearly  all  night.  I  have  not  seen  more  rain  fall  in  a  long 
time. 

WEDNESDAY,  29iH.  Got  the  balance  of  the  flour 
making  889  Ibs.,  most  of  it  at  $2.50  and  200  Ibs.  at  $2.00. 
Afternoon  went  to  the  village  with  Alice,  Diantha,  and 
Margaret.  There  saw  President  Young  and  Heber.  They 
have  just  bought  a  pony  and  some  cloth,  etc.,  and  seem 
to  have  money  enough  but  there  is  none  to  buy  me  flour. 
I  yet  lack  about  a  ton. 

THURSDAY,  30xn.     At     home  all     day.     Unpacked 


58  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

mother's  wagon  and  found  many  things  wet  and  dam- 
aged. 

FRIDAY,  31  ST.  Attending  to  wagons,  cattle,  etc.,  all 
day. 

SATURDAY,  AUGUST  1,  1846.  This  morning  I  went 
to  the  river  to  see  how  soon  we  could  cross  and  learned 
there  was  a  prospect  of  our  crossing  this  evening  or  to- 
morrow morning.  I  then  went  back  to  my  camp  and 
we  started  with  the  wagons  a  few  at  a  time.  My  brother 
James  is  lame  in  bed.  Pitt  is  lame.  Brown  is  lame  and 
Corbitt  nearly  spent.  About  noon  we  got  all  the  wagons 
to  the  river  and  Corbitt  returned  to  take  the  cattle  to 
grass.  I  went  to  Larpey's  and  got  the  balance  of  the 
money  then  went  to  Mitchel's  to  try  to  trade  my  music 
box  for  a  cow  but  did  not  succeed. 

SUNDAY,  2ND.  Preparing  to  cross  the  river.  Pelat- 
iah  Brown  went  swimming  all  the  forenoon  and  when 
Corbitt  asked  him  to  help  with  the  teams  he  swore  he 
would  not  if  Jesus  Christ  would  ask  him.  I  told  him 
if  he  did  not  feel  like  helping  us  he  could  go  somewhere 
else,  I  did  not  want  him.  He  went  and  I  am  again  left 
without  a  teamster.  I  will  here  say  that  Brown  will  not 
work  only  when  he  has  a  mind  to  and  during  the  last 
week  when  James  and  Corbitt  and  Pitt  were  all  gone 
he  would  go  to  the  river  swimming  instead  of  attend- 
ing to  the  cattle  and  I  may  as  well  be  without  a  teamster 
as  have  a  man  who  will  go  away  in  a  cramp.  About  noon 
we  crossed  three  wagons  over  and  kept  to  work  until  we 
had  got  them  all  over  which  took  us  till  dark.  We  had 
to  crowd  our  wagons  together  in  the  road  just  above  the 
river  on  account  of  its  being  stopped  up  by  other  wagons. 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  59 

\Ye  could  not  get  our  cattle  to  grass  and  they  have  had 
none  since  last  night,  but  having  a  few  bushels  of  corn 
we  gave  them  five  ears  a  piece.  After  supper  I  went 
fishing  with  Wm.  F.  Cahoon  and  others  until  two  o'clock 
but  had  very  poor  luck. 

MONDAY,  3RD.  Started  this  morning  to  get  our 
wagons  on  the  prairie.  The  road  is  very  narrow  and  bad, 
up  steep  bluff's  and  very  muddy.  It  took  four  yoke  of 
oxen  to  take  a  very  light  load.  When  we  had  got  four 
of  the  wagons  up  eight  yoke  of  Bishop  Whitney's  cat- 
tle came  to  help  us  and  afterwards  nine  yoke  of  President 
Young's  and  Kimball's.  We  got  to  the  prairie  about  noon 
and  stopped  to  feed  our  cattle.  I  sent  on  five  wagons 
with  the  teams  sent  to  help  us  and  after  feeding  about  an 
hour  started  with  the  remainder.  I  drove  the  spare  cat- 
tle and  horses.  We  got  the  wagons  to  camp  about  six 
o'clock.  One  of  President  Young's  oxen  killed  himself 
when  going  to  drink,  being  so  eager  he  pitched  into  the 
creek  and  broke  his  neck.  When  we  got  to  camp  we 
were  all  completely  tired.  My  feet  were  sore  and  my 
limbs  ached  and  had  to  go  to  bed.  We  camped  on  the 
north  end  of  Heber's  company.  We  have  left  nine  head 
of  cattle  over  the  river  yet  and  there  is  little  prospect  of 
being  able  to  find  some  of  them. 

TUESDAY,  4-TH.  This  morning  Heber's  company  have 
moved  on  about  two  clays  journey  and  again  left  me 
here  alone.  I  loaned  C.  L.  Whitney  three  yoke  of  oxen 
to  help  him  through.  They  are  gone  to  find  a  place 
within  thirty  miles  of  here  to  winter.  T  spent  the  day  do- 
ing little,  being  so  unwell. 

WEDNESDAY,    STH.     Moved     down  a     little     nearer 


60  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

water.  There  spent  the  day  fixing  Ruth's  wagon.  Cor- 
bitt  has  gone  over  the  river  to  hunt  cattle  and  in  the 
evening  returned  with  one  yoke. 

THURSDAY,  6TH.  Putting  covers  on  Margaret's  and 
mother's  wagons,  etc.  Afternoon  writing  copy  of  the  re- 
turns of  companies. 

FRIDAY,  ?TH.  Spent  the  forenoon  writing  copy  of 
return  of  companies  of  the  U.  S.  army.  About  noon  two 
of  Heber's  teamsters  came  with  some  cattle  to  help  me 
to  the  main  camp.  I  left  off  writing  and  went  to  putting 
the  wagons  in  order.  While  fixing  a  chicken  coop  I 
struck  my  forehead  with  a  hammer  which  disabled  me 
from  work  the  remainder  of  the  day. 

SATURDAY,  STH.  This  morning  we  arose  about  three 
o'clock  and  while  some  took  the  cattle  to  graze  the  rest 
got  the  wagons  loaded,  etc.,  ready  to  start.  We  got 
away  soon  after  sunrise.  I  rode  a  mule  and  drove  the 
cows.  We  traveled  about  nine  miles  before  we  came  to 
any  water.  Here  we  took  the  teams  from  the  wagons  to 
a  spring  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  road.  The 
cattle  seemed  tired  but  one  of  the  teamsters  said  it  was 
only  about  three  miles  farther  and  should  soon  be  there. 
We  concluded  to  go  on  without  stopping  to  feed.  But 
before  we  had  proceeded  far  some  of  the  cattle  gave  out, 
the  day  being  very  hot,  and  before  we  got  to  camp  sev- 
eral yoke  gave  up  entirely  and  were  left  on  the  road  and 
brought  afterwards.  One  of  the  cattle  died  almost  as 
soon  as  they  took  him  from  the  wagon,  being  about  a 
mile  from  camp.  Two  or  three  others  were  not  ex- 
pected to  live.  When  we  arrived  Heber  wanted  us  to 
form  on  his  north  line  but  we  could  only  get  half  of  our 


WILLIAM   CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  61 

wagons  into  the  space  left  for  the  whole  of  them.  I  then 
moved  over  to  the  south  side  and  formed  next  to  D.  Rus- 
sell. We  got  our  tent  up  but  can  have  no  fire  until  Mon- 
day. The  cattle  are  so  tired  we  will  not  use  them.  I 
feel  about  sick  myself.  Heber's  camp  is  formed  in  a  kind 
of  parallelogram,  each  wagon  camped  in  a  perfect  line 
with  the  others.  The  square  in  the  center  is  about 
twenty-five  rods  long  and  fifteen  rods  wide. 

SUNDAY,  9xH.  Writing  copy  of  return  of  compan- 
ies of  U.  S.  army  all  day. 

MONDAY,  lOxn.  Attending  to  various  business  about 
the  wagons  all  day. 

TUESDAY,  HTH.  Last  night  I  had  a  severe  chill  and 
felt  sick  all  day  mostly  with  high  fever.  Quite  unable  to 
work. 

WEDNESDAY,  12rH.  Quite  sick,  very  bad  fever  all 
day. 

SUNDAY,  16xH.  Since  Wednesday  have 
even  been  out  of  bed,  but  kept  with  raging  fever  all  the 
time.  Twice  Heber  has  rebuked  my  fever  but  it  has  re- 
turned. Through  fear  and  persuasion  of  my  family  I 
have  taken  some  pills  and  medicine  given  by  Dr.  Sprague, 
but  seem  to  grow  worse  all  the  time.  Today  I  have  been 
very  sick.  Towards  evening  my  folks  concluded  to  get 
me  out  of  the  wagon  into  the  tent  where  they  had  pre- 
pared a  bed.  Soon  after  I  got  into  the  tent  President 
Young,  Dr.  Richards,  G.  A.  Smith,  Orson  Pratt,  Lorenzo 
Young  and  others  called  to  see  me.  When  they  had  been 
in  a  few  moments  President  Young  called  O.  P.  Rock- 
well into  the  tent  and  the  feelings  we  had  on  seeing  him 
cannot  be  described.  He  has  been  in  prison  some  time 


62  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

but  when  his  trial  came  on  there  was  no  one  to  accuse 
him  and  the  judge  discharged  him.  The  brethren  all  laid 
hands  on  me  and  rebuked  my  disease  in  the  name  of  the 
Lord,  President  Young  being  mouth.  I  immediately  felt 
easier  and  slept  well  all  night  being  the  first  sleep  I  had 
had  of  any  account  for  three  days  and  nights. 

SUNDAY,  23RD.  During  the  past  week  I  have  gained 
slowly  and  have  been  able  to  walk  about  some.  I,  how- 
ever, feel  very  weak  and  broken  down. 

MONDAY,  24-TH.  Reading  some  and  fixing  a  little 
at  my  violin.  Feel  very  little  better  but  have  a  better 
appetite. 

TUESDAY,  25TH.  We  had  a  thunder  storm  last  night. 
I  do  not  feel  so  well  this  morning  but  took  a  walk  into 
the  woods.  I  had  a  very  sick  day  all  da  y 

WEDNESDAY,  26xn.  The  morning  very  cool  and 
cloudy.  Let  T.  Corbitt  have  a  pair  of  shoes. 

THURSDAY,  27'rii.  Diantha  was  taken  very  sick  and 
continued  for  four  or  five  days. 

SATURDAY,  29TH.  At  night  I  was  seized  with  fever 
again  and  very  sick. 

SUNDAY,  30rii.  Had  chill  and  fever,  the  chill  held 
me  four  or  five  days. 

THURSDAY,  SEPTEMBER,  lOra.  I  still  continue  very 
weak  and  troubled  with  pain  in  stomach,  etc.  President 
Young  and  Dr.  Richards  called  and  brought  me  a  letter 
from  David;  also  said  they  had  got  me  employment  writ- 
ing at  a  dollar  a  day  or  3  c.  on  every  hundred  words  copy- 
ing. 

SATURDAY,  12TH.  Still  quite  unwell.  President 
Young  brought  me  $8.00  in  money,  one  half  dollar  bogn- 


\VILL1AM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  63 

and  soon  after  Dr.  Richards  sent  me  some  letters  to  copy 
which  I  did. 

TUESDAY,  15TH.  This  evening  I  copied  a  letter  to 
Joseph  F.  Herring  and  having  no  one  to  send  it  by  I  took 
it  to  council  myself.  Before  I  got  half  way  there  my  knees 
failed  me  and  it  was  with  great  difficulty  I  got  there  and 
home  again.  When  I  got  back  to  Pitt's  shanty  my  spirit 
failed  me  for  I  was  not  aware  of  my  weakness. 

SATURDAY,  19TH.  Since  Tuesday  I  have  scarcely 
been  out  of  bed,  but  today  I  feel  some\vhat  better  again. 

SUNDAY,  20rH.  A  little  better.  I  have  been  told 
that  President  Young  has  virtually  cursed  all  who  have 
gone  to  Missouri  or  those  who  shall  go  hereafter. 

MONDAY,  21sx.  This  evening  about  ten  o'clock  all 
the  men  of  the  camp  were  ordered  up  armed  to  meet  in 
this  square  forthwith.  I  got  up  and  after  a  very  little 
while  quite  a  company  of  the  brethren  got  together.  Presi- 
dent Hales  informed  them  that  the  President  had  received 
a  letter  from  Mr.  Sarpey  informing  him  that  two  gentle- 
men from  Missouri  had  informed  him  confidentally  that 
the  Missourians  had  got  out  writs  for  the  twelve  and 
others  and  were  coming  with  a  large  force  on  the  west 
side  of  the  river  to  attack  the  camp  by  surprise,  etc.  He 
advised  the  brethren  to  have  their  arms  clean  and  their 
ammunition  ready  at  a  moments  warning,  to  pray  with 
their  families,  keep  dogs  tied  up  at  nights,  etc.,  etc.  The 
company  was  then  dismissed  except  a  guard  for  the  camp. 

TUESDAY,  22xix  This  morning  the  brethren  were 
ordered  to  meet  at  the  springs  below  here  at  nine  o'clock. 
At  the  sound  of  the  drum  the  brethren  met  and  here  or- 
ganized into  four  battalions,  one  of  artillery,  and  three  of 


64  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

infantry.  There  were  about  three  hundred  brethren  pres- 
ent. The  President  then  stated  that  he  had  received  a 
letter  from  Sarpey  informing  him  that  two  gentlemen, 
confidentially,  from  Missouri  had  informed  him  that  the 
Missourians  were  collecting  with  the  sheriff  of  Missouri, 
their  head  designing  to  attack  the  saints,  that  they  had 
writs,  etc.,  for  the  twelve  and  others.  He  had  ordered 
out  the  brethren  that  they  might  be  ready  in  case  of 
necessity  and  advised  them  to  organize  and  be  prepared. 
Markham  was  elected  Colonel  over  the  batallions  Hosea 
Stout,  Lieutenant  Colonel  over  the  battalions  and  over 
the  first  battalions  and  over  the  first  battalions  of  in- 
fantry. John  Scott  was  elected  1st  major  and  major  over 
the  artillery.  Henry  Herriman  2nd  major  to  take  com- 
mand of  the  2nd  battalion  of  infantry  and  John  S.  Glea- 
son  3rd  major  over  the  3rd  battalion  of  infantry.  After 
organizing  the  President  addressed  the  companies  and 
then  dismissed  them.  It  was  advised  to  quit  leaving  and 
move  the  encampment  to  the  fort  on  the  river.  A  num- 
ber of  teams  moved  this  afternoon. 

WEDNESDAY,  23RD.  This  morning  President  Young 
and  many  others  have  moved  down  to  the  river.  Heber 
told  me  to  wait  till  the  lots  were  selected  and  he  would 
let  me  know  when  to  move.  My  health  is  improving. 

THURSDAY,  24iH.  Very  cold  all  day.  I  did  not  feel 
so  well.  I  have  been  told  that  Daniel  H.  Wells  and  Wil- 
liam Cutler  have  arrived  in  camp  and  brought  a  report 
that  there  has  been  a  battle  fought  in  Nauvoo  and  some 
of  the  brethren  killed. 

FRIDAY,  25TH.  I  learned  today  that  the  mob  had  made 
it  known  that  they  were  coming  to  drive  out  the  "Mor- 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  65 

mons."  The  Governor  sent  an  officer  to  raise  volunteers 
to  disperse  the  mob,  but  the  mob  learning  this  they  came 
sooner  than  they  had  calculated.  The  brethren  being  ap- 
prised of  the  intentions  of  the  mob  prepared  to  meet  them 
as  well  as  their  circumstances  would  permit.  Some  of 
the  new  citizens  also  made  preparations  to  join  the  breth- 
ren. They  made  five  cannon  shot  of  an  old  steam  boat 
shaft.  They  also  filled  some  barrels  with  powder,  old 
iron,  etc.,  which  were  buried  in  the  pass  to  the  city  which 
could  be  fired  by  a  slow  match  but  this  was  of  no  avail 
as  some  traitors  informed  the  mob  of  it,  hence  they  did 
not  come  into  the  settled  part  of  the  city.  On  Saturday 
the  12  hist,  the  mob  made  their  appearance  being  about 
twelve  hundred  in  number.  The  brethren  and  some  of 
the  new  citizens  in  the  whole  about  one  hundred  and  sixty 
went  to  give  them  battle,  but  many  of  the  new  citizens 
and  some  of  the  brethren  when  they  saw  the  numbers  of* 
the  mob  fled  and  left  about  one  hundred,  nearly  all  breth- 
ren to  fight  the  enemy.  The  mob  had  pieces  of  cannon. 
They  met  near  Boscow's  store  on  Winchester  street. 
The  cannon  of  the  mob  were  two  blocks  from  the  breth- 
ren and  the  other  part  of  rifle  men  one  block  from  them. 
The  mob  fired  a  number  of  times  into  Barlow's  old  barn 
expecting  many  of  the  brethren  were  concealed  there  but 
in  this  they  were  disappointed,  the  brethren  chiefly  lying 
down  on  the  ground  behind  some  shelter  and  fired  in  that 
position.  They  fought  one  hour  and  twenty  minutes  when 
the  mob  offered  terms  of  compromise  which  were  these, 
that  all  the  "Mormons"'  should  leave  the  city  within  five 
days  leaving  ten  families  to  finish  the  unsettled  business. 
The  brethren  consented  to  this  inasmuch  as  they  had  been 


66  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

well  informed  that  1500  more  were  coming  to  join  the 
mob  and  they  had  nothing  to  expect  from  the  authorities 
of  the  state.  Lyman  Johnson,  one  of  the  twelve,  headed 
a  party  of  the  mob  from  Keokuk,  Iowa  territory.  Three 
of  the  brethren  were  killed,  viz.  William  Anderson,  his 
son,  and  Norris,  a  blacksmith.  Three  others  wounded. 
The  mob  would  not  own  to  any  of  their  party  being  killed 
but  one  person  saw  them  put  sixteen  men  into  one  wagon 
and  handled  them  more  like  dead  persons  than"  wounded. 
The  ground  where  they  stood  was  pretty  much  covered 
with  blood,  so  that  there  is  no  doubt  they  had  many  slain 
or  wounded.  They  had  150  baggage  wagons.  Esquire 
Wells  took  command  of  the  brethren  and  rode  to  and 
fro  during  the  whole  battle  without  receiving  injury,  al- 
though the  balls  whistled  by  him  on  every  side.  Amos 
Davis  fought  bravely.  While  running  across  a  plowed 
field  he  stumbled  and  fell  on  his  left  arm  which  formed 
a  triangle  with  his  head.  As  he  fell  a  cannon  ball  passed 
through  the  angle  of  his  arm  between  that  and  his  head. 
Hiram  Kimball  received  a  slight  wound,  with  a  musket 
ball  on  the  forehead.  The  mob  fired  sixty-two  shots  with 
the  cannon  and  ten  rounds  with  the  muskets  making  12, 
000  musket  balls  only  killing  three  and  wounding  three. 
The  brethren  did'  not  fire  so  much  in  proportion  but  did 
much  more  execution.  Truly,  the  Lord  fights  the  battles 
of  his  saints.  The  cannon  of  the  brethren  was  not  of 
much  service,  they  would  not  carry  more  than  a  quarter 
of  a  mile,  whereas  those  of  the  mob  would  hold  well  a 
half  a  mile.  They  shot  nine  balls  through  a  small  smith 
shop,  one  through  Wells'  barn  and  one  at  his  house 
but  the  ball  struck  the  ground  in  front  of  his  house  and 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  67 

glanced  through  the  well  curb.  The  mayor  of  Quincy 
watched  the  battle  from  the  tower  of  the  temple  and 
owned  that  history  never  afforded  a  parallel.  The  breth- 
ren then  began  to  get  their  families  and  effects  over  the 
river  where  they  remain  in  a  suffering  and  destitute  con- 
dition until  wagons  and  means  are  sent  from  the  saints 
to  their  relief.  On  the  Thursday  following,  the  mob 
1200  strong,  entered  the  city.  'Tis  said  from  good 
authority  that  such  is  the  distress  and  sufferings  of  the 
saints  as  actually  to  draw  tears  from  this  mob. 

SATURDAY,  26TH.  Russell  told  me  that  he  had  se- 
lected three  lots  for  us  and  we  could  go  as  soon  as  we 
had  a  mind  to.  He  saw  Heber  on  the  subject.  I  made 
up  my  mind  to  start  on  Monday  for  Winter  Quarters. 

SUNDAY,  2/TH.  This  morning  Brother  Smithies 
came  with  six  yoke  of  Heber's  cattle  and  said  we  must 
be  ready  to  start  in  five  minutes  while  he  went  to  water 
his  cattle  and  although  we  had  everything  unprepared  we 
were  ready  before  he  got  back.  I  felt  well  enough  to  drive 
a  team.  We  took  six  wagons  down  and  camped  on  the 
same  block  with  Heber  in  Cape  Disappointment.  James 
and  Pitt  went  back  to  wait  for  Corbitt  who  was  herding 
cows  and  in  the  evening  returned  with  three  more  wagons. 

MONDAY,  28TH.  Got  the  balance  of  the  wagons  and 
poles,  etc.  down.  I  copied  three  letters  for  Dr.  Richards. 

TUESDAY,  29xn.  Corbitt  has  started  down  into  the 
country  to  fetch  potatoes,  etc. 

SUNDAY,  NOVEMBER.  IST,  1846.  During  the  last 
month  several  times  I  have  been  very  sick  and  then  again 
would  be  somewhat  better.  I  still  continue  to  be  feeble 
and  unable  to  work.  I  have  one  house  nearly  finished 


68  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

and  shall  in  a  few  days  occupy  it.  Thomas  Corbitt  has 
been  down  the  river  to  fetch  a  load  of  corn  on  shares  but 
President  Young  told  me  to  take  the  whole  of  it  for  which 
I  feel  very  grateful.  I  have  sent  my  cattle  to  the  rushes 
to  be  wintered,  having  but  eight  tons  of  hay  although 
James  and  Corbitt  worked  from  twenty-six  to  thirty  days 
but  Russell  and  Rolfe  have  contrived  to  work  it  into  their 
hands,  taking  as  Rolfe  said,  half  of  Corbitt's  hay  for  herd- 
ing my  cattle  while  he  was  in  the  hay  field.  I  think  this 
is  as  wrong  a  piece  of  business  as  has  been  played  on  me 
through  the  journey. 

WINTER  QUARTERS 

FRIDAY,  JANUARY  1,  1847.  Morning  at  the  store. 
At  2  :00  P.  M.  went  with  Diantha  to  her  father's  and  par- 
took of  a  roast  turkey  for  dinner.  At  4 :00  met  the  band 
at  the  Basket  Shop  and  played  about  an  hour  and  a  half. 
The  basket  makers  made  each  of  us  a  present  of  a  new 
basket  and  showed  their  gratitude  various  ways.  At 
6:00  met  with  the  band  at  Father  Kimball's  and  played 
for  a  party  till  after  one  o'clock.  President  Young  and 
Kimball  danced  considerable  and  all  seemed  to  feel  well. 

SATURDAY,  THE  2ND.  At  the  store  regulating  the 
books  and  making  out  Whitney  and  Woolley's  account 
current,  etc.  About  2  :00  P.  M.  Sarah  came  and  said  her 
mother  wanted  me.  Moroni  had  fallen  into  the  fire  and 
burned  himself  very  badly.  I  went  home  and  found  as 
she  said.  All  over  the  left  side  of  his  head  burned,  hfs 
face  very  badly  burned,  large  blisters  round  his  left  eye. 
I  immediately  applied  some  consecrated  oil  and  ordered 
them  to  keep  it  on  all  the  time.  I  then  returned  to  the 
store.  Evening  President  Young  came  and  took  his  hard- 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  69 

ware  bill,  domestic  drilling,  etc.  About  8:00  P.  M.  I  went 
home. 

SUNDAY,  3RD.  Moroni's  face  seems  much  better,  all 
except  around  his  left  eye  which  looks  very  bad.  I  wa*> 
at  the  store  all  day  working"  at  Whitney's  account  current 
which  seems  very  bad  to  regulate.  Evening  Heber,  his 
wife  Ellen,  Sarah  Ann  and  Sister  Whitney  came  in  to 
trade  and  remained  till  about  ten  o'clock. 

MONDAY,  4-TH.  At  the  store  all  day.  Evening  wait- 
ing on  Orson  Pratt  and  Amasa  Lyman.  Paid  my  tax  to- 
day. S2.1/i^  to  I.  C.  Wright. 

TUESDAY,  STH.  At  the  store  all  clay.  Evening  the 
band  met  at  my  house. 

WEDNESDAY,  6xH.  At  the  store  all  day,  the  weather 
extremely  cold. 

THURSDAY,  7TH-  At  the  store,  the  weatiier  still  colder 
than  yesterday.  Evening  went  to  Sister  Bud's  and  took 
supper  of  turkey.  Afterwards  went  to  Leonard's  and 
played  for  them  with  Hutchinson  and  Smithies  till  12  :00 
o'clock. 

FRIDAY.  STH.  At  the  store  again,  the  weather  still 
colder.  Evening  the  band  met  at  my  house  and  played 
some. 

SATURDAY,  9rn.  At  the  store  all  clay.  Quite  unwell 
till  9:00  P.  M. 

SUNDAY,  10TH.  At  home  mostly  all  day.  About 
2:00  P.  M.  went  to  Hutchinson's  to  dinner. 

MONDAY.  HTH.  At  the  store  all  day,  the  weather 
more  moderate.  Margaret  and  her  boy  doing  well.  Last 
night  Pitt  returned  from  Missouri. 

TUESDAY.  12TH.  This  morning  Ruth  began  to  feel 
unwell.  I  went  to  the  store  and  continued  settlements  as 


70  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

usual.  Brothers  Lee  and  Russell  returned  from  Missouri, 
having  obtained  change  for  the  checks.  About  4:00  P.  M. 
President  Young  and  J.  D.  Lee  came  to  Bishop  Whitney's 
and  I  received  in  gold  $496.17,  and  in  silver  $1,080.52  out 
of  three  checks  which  Lee  took  value  $2,447.32,  the  bal- 
ance to  be  accounted  for  hereafter.  Soon  as  I  was  through 
receiving  the  money,  I  was  informed  that  my  folks  had 
sent  for  me  and  I  went  home  soon  after,  found  that  Ruth 
had  brought  forth  a  son  twenty  minutes  after  5.00  P.  M. 
She  had  a  pretty  hard  time,  but  feels  comfortable  as  can 
be  expected.  The  boy  is  named  Newel  Horace.  Even- 
ing I  met  with  the  band  at  Johnson's  and  played  till  about 
11 :00  p.  m.  The  house  was  very  much  crowded  and  not 
much  room  to  dance,  but  they  kept  it  up  freely. 

WEDNESDAY,  13xH.  This  morning  Ruth  feels  more 
comfortable.  At  the  store  all  day  waiting  for  Lee  and 
Russel  to  settle.  Evening  Russel  came  and  I  received 
from  him  in  gold  $177.50,  and  in  silver  $363.19.  He 
also  accounted  for  $150.00  paid  to  Heber  and  $30.00  to 
Daniel  Russel  out  of  a  check  value  $732.53  leaving  him 
deficit  $11.84.  Spent  the  evening  at  home. 

THURSDAY,  14xH.  At  the  store  paying  out  a  pait  cf 
the  money,  expecting  before  I  made  final  payments  to 
settle  with  Lee  and  Egan. 

FRIDAY,  15TH.  Spent  an  hour  with  Lee  and  Egan 
at  my  house  but  did  not  accomplish  much  towards  a  set- 
tlement. Afterwards  at  the  store  paying  out  money  set- 
tling, etc.,  filled  bills  for  Pisgah  £  Garden  Grove. 

SATURDAY,  16™.  At  the  store  again  paying,  set- 
tling, etc.,  all  day.  The  weather  very  cold.  My  folks  do- 
ing well. 


AY  ILL  I  AM!  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  71 

SUNDAY,  17x11.    At  home  mostly  all  day. 

MONDAY,  18xn.  At  the  store  all  day,  mostly  paying 
money  to  the  .soldiers'  wives. 

TUESDAY,  19xn.    At  the  store  paying  money,  etc. 

WEDNESDAY,  20xn.    At  the  store  paying  money,  etc. 

THURSDAY,  21  ST.    At  the  store  paying  money,  etc. 

FRIDAY,  22xi>.  At  the  store  paying  money,  etc. 
ICveiiing  went  with  Hutchinson  to  Packer's  party  and 
played  for  the  party  in  the  smoke  till  near  midnight. 

SATURDAY,  23RD.  At  the  store  all  day  paying  money, 
etc.  Evening  met  with  Pitt  and  Hutchinson  at  the  council 
house. 

SUNDAY,  24xn.  Headache  all  day  having  taken  cold 
last  evening.  Mostly  at  home.  A  few  hours  at  the  store, 
over  the  river  and  back.  Night  played  with  Pitt  awhile. 

MONDAY,  25x11.  At  the  store,  very  busy  paying 
money,  etc.  Snowed  some  and  is  cold.  Whitney  let  me 
have  some  goods.  Evening  walked  alone. 

TUESDAY,  26xH.  At  the  store  till  2 :00  p.  m.  After- 
ward went  with  the  Quadrille  Band  to  the  Council 
House  agreeably  to  previous  notice  and  played  for  a 
party  of  men  (70's)  and  their  families  who  had  assisted 
in  building  the  house.  They  danced  till  about  midnight. 
\Ye  had  plenty  to  eat  and  drink  through  the  interview 
and  a  very  pleasant  party. 

WEDNESDAY,  27xn.  At  the  store  again  till  noon.  At 
2 :00  p.  m.  at  the  Council  House  with  the  Quadrille  Band 
and  played  for  another  company  of  those  who  had  as- 
sisted in  building  the  house.  We  had  plenty  of  refresh- 
ments and  a  very  sociable  party  as  on  yesterday.  Broke 
up  again  about  midnight. 


72  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

THURSDAY,  28TH.  At  the  store  till  noon,  and  then 
at  the  Council  House  with  the  Quadrille  Band  playing 
for  the  third  party  of  those  who  had  assisted  in  building 
the  house,  together  with  the  poor  basket  makers. 

FRIDAY,  29iH.  At  home  and  the  store.  Felt  quite 
unwell. 

SATURDAY,  30m .  At  the  store  all  day  settling  and 
paying  money  to  soldiers'  wives. 

SUNDAY,  31sx.  At  home  all  day.  Dined  with 
Diantha,  Ruth,  Margaret  and  mother  Farr  on  a  turkey. 

'MONDAY,  FEBRUARY  IST,  1847.  At  the  store  all  day 
settling  accounts,  paying  money,  etc. 

TUESDAY,  2ND.  At  the  store  till  noon.  Afterwards 
at  the  Council  House  with  the  Quadrille  Band  playing 
for  Brigham's  family  generally. 

WEDNESDAY,  3RD.  At  the  store  till  noon.  After- 
wards at  the  Council  House  with  the  Quadrille  Band  to 
play  for  a  family  meeting  of  the  Young  family.  Presi- 
dent Brigham  Young  was  quite  sick  and  seemed  very 
low  spirited.  After  the  meeting  had  been  opened  by 
prayer,  the  President  called  on  his  brothers  to  stand  up 
by  him  in  the  center  of  the  room  which  they  did  accord- 
ing to  age.  John  Young  took  his  place  at  the  head,  then 
Phineas,  Joseph,  Brigham  and  Lorenzo.  The  President 
then  called  on  Heber  to  take  his  place  in  the  line  inasmuch 
as  he  had  been  recognized  about  fifteen  years  as  a  member 
of  the  Young  family.  He  took  his  place  between  Joseph 
and  Brigham.  The  President  then  said  this  was  the  first 
time  that  father  Young's  boys  had  been  together  in  the 
same  capacity  for  a  number  of  years,  etc.  After  a  few 
remarks  the  remainder  of  the  evening  was  spent  by  par- 


WILLIAM   CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  73 

taking  of  a  good  supper  and  cheerful  dancing  till  about 
two  in  the  morning,  when  the  party  broke  up  in  the  best 
of  spirits  and  good  feeling. 

THURSDAY,  4'rn.  At  the  store  mostly,  evening  at 
home. 

FRIDAY,  STH.  At  the  store  till  noon,  then  with  the 
Quadrille  Band  to  play  for  the  Silver  Greys  till  midnight. 

SATURDAY,  6rH.    At  the  store  all  day. 

SUNDAY,  ?TH.    At  home. 

MONDAY,  STH.    At  the  store  all  day. 

TUESDAY,  9xH.  At  the  store  till  10:00  a.  m.  Then 
went  with  the  Quadrille  Band  in  Eldridge's  carriage  to 
play  round  the  city,  but  the  weather  was  so  cold  we  could 

not  play  much.     At  2:00  p.  m.,  met  with (no  pages 

from  here  until  April.) 

into  camp  from  England  which  will  probably  detain  the 

camp  a  few  days. 

FRIDAY,  APRIL  9'rn.  Went  with  the  Quadrille  Band 
over  the  River  as  the  twelve  do  not  start  for  the  Horn 
today.  We  played  in  the  boat  as  we  crossed,  but  in  re- 
turning the  wind  was  high,  the  boat  heavily  loaded  with 
cattle  and  dangerous  crossing. 

SATURDAY,  lOrn.    At  home  nearly  all  day. 

SUNDAY,  HTH.  At  home  and  Farr's.  I  told  Winslow 
Farr  concerning  Hosea  Stout's  threats  to  take  my  life 
after  the  Twelve  are  gone,  etc.  He  called  at  night  on  his 
return  from  the  Council  and  told  me  to  be  on  my  guard. 

MONDAY,  12TH.  At  home  all  day.  Thomas  and 
James  had  planted  a  number  of  garden  seeds  on  Satur- 
day. Today,  they  are  cutting  wood  and  preparing  to  go 


74  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

to  the  farm  tomorrow.  I  have  no  hay,  neither  can  I  get 
any  for  my  cows  and  horses. 

TUESDAY,  13Tii.  At  home  most  of  the  day.  Thomas 
and  James  started  for  the  farm.  Evening  went  to  the 
store  and  told  Brigham  and  Heber  about  Hosea  Stout's 
calculations,  etc. 

WEDNESDAY,  14xH.  This  morning  severely  pained 
with  rheumatism  in  my  face.  At  11:00  a.  m.  Brigham 
and  Dr.  Richards  came.  Brigham  told  me  to  rise  up  and 
start  with  the  pioneers  in  half  an  hour's  notice.  I  de- 
livered to  him  the  records  of  the  K.  of  G.  and  set  my 
folks  to  work  to  get  my  clothes  together  to  start  with 
the  pioneers.  At  two  o'clock  I  left  my  family  and  started 
in  Heber's  carriage  with  Heber  and  Wm.  Kimball  and 
Ellen  Sanders,  Bishop  Whitney  and  Lyman  went  out  with 
us  in  another  wagon.  We  went  about  19  miles  and 
camped  on  the  prairie.  After  supper  Heber  prayed  and 
we  retired  to  rest. 

THURSDAY,  15xH.  After  eating  and  prayers  by 
Bishop  Whitney,  started  at  half  past  seven  and  got  to 
the  Elk  Horn  at  11 :30.  We  were  all  across  at  12:00  and 
there  we  overtook  Brigham,  G.  A.  Smith,  E.  T.  Benson 
and  Amasa  Lyman.  We  arrived  at  the  pioneers  Camp 
about  3  :00  p.  m.  This  camp  is  about  twelve  miles  from 
the  Elk  Horn  and  about  47  from  Winter  Quarters.  I 
spent  the  evening  with  Aaron  Farr,  Horace  Whitney  and 
Jackson  Redding. 

FRIDAY,  16xH.  This  day  is  gloomy,  windy  and  cold. 
About  8:00  a.  m.  the  camp  was  called  together,  and  or- 
ganized two  Captains  of  100's  viz.  Stephen  Markham  and 
A.  P.  Rockwood  were  appointed,  also  five  captains  of 


\\TLLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  75 

50's  and  14  Captains  of  10's.  There  are  143  men  and 
boys  on  the  list  of  the  pioneer  company,  three  women 
and  Lorenzo  Young's  two  children.  There  are  73  wagons. 
O  P.  Rockwell  has  gone  back  to  camp  with  J.  C.  Little. 
Bishop  Whitney,  Lyman,  Wm.  Kimball  and  J.  B.  Noble 
returned  from  here  to  Winter  Quarters.  The  following 
is  a  list  of  all  the  names  of  this  pioneer  company.  To 
wit : 

Wilford  Woodruff,  John  S.  Fowler,  Jacob  Burnham, 
Orson  Pratt,  Joseph  Egbert,  John  N.  Freeman,  Marcus 
B.  Thorpe,  George  A.  Smith,  George  Wardle,  Thomas 
Grover,  Ezra  T.  Benson,  Barnabas  L.  Adams,  Roswell 
Stevens,  Amasa  Lyman,  Sterling  Driggs,  Albert  Carring- 
ton,  Thomas  Bullock,  George  Brown  Willard  Richards, 
Jesse  C.  Little,  Phineas  H.  Young,  John  Y.  Greene, 
Thomas  Tanner,  Brigham  Young,  Addison  Everett,  Tru- 
man O.  Angel,  Lorenzo  Young  and  wife,  Bryant  String- 
ham,  Albert  P.  Rockwood,  Joseph  L.  Schofield,  Luke 
Johnson,  John  Holman,  Edmund  Elsworth,  Alvarnus 
Hanks,  George  R.  Grant,  Millen  Atwood,  Samuel  Fox, 
Tunis  Rappleyee,  Harvey  Pierce,  William  Dykes,  Jacob 
Weiler,  Stephen  H.  Goddard,  Tarlton  Lewis,  Henry  G. 
Sherwood,  Zebedee  Coltrin,  Sylvester  H.  Earl,  John 
Dixon,  Samuel  H.  Marble,  George  Scholes,  William 
Henrie,  William  A.  Empey,  Charles  Shumway,  Thomas 
Woolsey,  Chancy  Loveland,  Erastus  Snow,  Andrew 
Shumway,  James  Craig,  William  Wordsworth,  William 
Vance,  Simeon  Howd,  Seeley  Owen,  James  Case, 
Artemas  Johnson,  \Villiam  A.  Smoot,  Franklin  B.  Dewev. 
William  Carter,  Franklin  G.  Losee,  Burr  Frost,  Datus  En- 
sign, Franklin  B.  Stewart,  Monroe  Frink,  Eric  Glines, 


76  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

Ozro  Eastman,  Seth  Taft,  Horace  Thornton,  Stephen 
Kelsey,  John  S.  Eldredge,  Charles  D.  Barnum,  Alma  M. 
Williams,  Rufus  Allen,  Robert  T.  Thomas,  James  W. 
Stuart,  Elijah  Newman,  Levi  N.  Kendall,  Francis  Boggs, 
David  Grant,  Heber  C.  Kimball,  Howard  Egan,  William 
A.  King,  Thomas  Cloward,  Hosea  Gushing,  Robert 
Byard,  George  Billings,  Edson  Whipple,  Philo  Johnson, 
William  Clayton,  Appleton  M.  Harmon,  Carlos  Murray, 
Horace  K.  Whitney,  Orson  K.  Whitney,  Orrin  P.  Rock- 
well, Nathaniel  Thomas  Brown,  R.  Jackson  Redding, 
John  Pack,  Francis  M.  Pomroy,  Aaron  Farr,  Nathaniel 
Fairbanks,  John  S.  Higbee,  John  Wheeler,  Solomon 
Chamberlain,  Conrad  Kleinman,  Joseph  Rooker,  Perry 
Fitzgerald,  John  H.  Tippets,  James  Davenport,  Henson 
Walker,  Benjamin  Rolfe,  Norton  Jacobs,  Charles  A. 
Harper,  George  Woodard,  Stephen  Markham,  Lewis 
Barney,  George  Mills,  Andrew  Gibbons,  Joseph  Han- 
cock, John  W.  Norton,  Shadrach  Roundy,  Hans  C.  Han- 
son, Levi  Jackman,  Lyman  Curtis,  John  Brown,  Mathew 
Ivory,  David  Powell,  (Hark  Lay,  Oscar  Crosby,  blacks) 
Joseph  Mathews,  Gilbroid  Summe,  John  Gleason  Charles 
Burke,  Alexander  P.  Chessley,  Rodney  Badger,  Norman 
Taylor,  (Green  Flake,  black)  Ellis  Eames. 

There  were  72  wagons,  93  horses,  52  mules,  66  oxen, 
19  cows,  and  17  dogs,  and  chickens. 

The  names  of  the  females  in  this  camp  are : 
Harriet  Page  Young,  Clarissa  Decker,  and  Ellen 
Sanders.  The  names  of  the  children  are  Isaac  Perry 
Decker  Young  and  Sabisky  L.  Young,  making  a  total  of 
148  souls  who  have  started  to  go  west  of  the  mountains 
as  pioneers  to  find  a  home  where  the  saints  can  live  in 


WILLIAM   CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  77 

peace  and  enjoy  the  fruits  of  their  labors,  and  where  we 
shall  not  be  under  the  dominion  of  gentile  governments, 
subject  to  the  wrath  of  mobs  and  where  the  standards  of 
peace  can  be  raised,  the  Ensign  to  nations  reared  and  the 
kingdom  of  God  flourish  until  truth  shall  prevail,  and 
the  saints  enjoy  the  fulness  of  the  gospel. 

The  following  are  the  names  of  the  Captains  of  50's 
as  appointed  at  this  organization,  viz.  Addison  Everett, 
Tarlton  Lewis.  James  Case.  John  Pack  and  Shadrack 
Roundy.  The  Captains  of  10's  are  as  follows : 

\Yilford  \Yoodruff,  Ezra  T.  Benson,  Phineas  H. 
Young,  Luke  Johnson,  Stephen  H.  Goddard,  Charles 
Shumway,  James  Case,  Seth  Taft,  Howard  Egan,  Apple- 
ton  M.  Harmon.  John  S.  Higbee,  Norton  Jacobs,  John 
Brown,  Joseph  Mathews.  For  the  names  of  the  guard 
and  the  gun  division  see  under  date  of  April  30th. 

Stephen  Markham  was  appointed  the  Captain  of  the 
Guard  and  ordered  to  select  out  of  the  camp,  fifty  men 
for  guard,  such  as  he  had  confidence  in  who  are  to  be 
considered  as  a  standing  guard,  to  attend  to  the  wagons 
each  night,  twelve  of  them  to  stand  at  a  time,  and  to 
have  two  sets  each  night,  that  is,  12  each  watch  to  stand 
half  the  night.  In  cases  where  the  horses  and  cattle  are 
tied  some  distance  from  the  wagons  at  night,  an  extra 
guard  is  to  be  selected  from  the  balance  of  the  company 
or  camp,  the  standing  guard  not  being  permitted  to 
leave  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  the  wagons.  After 
the  organization  was  over,  I  wrote  a  letter  to  Diantha, 
and  put  it  into  the  hands  of  Bishop  Whitney,  together 
with  the  one  I  received  yesterday  from  father  and  I. 
McEwan,  also  the  one  from  Ellen  to  James.  Up  to  12:00 


78  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

a.  m.  I  had  no  place  to  put  my  trunk  and  clothing,  and 
did  not  know  what  to  do  with  them.  However,  soon 
after  Heber  told  me  to  put  them  in  Appleton  M.  Har- 
mon's wagon,  which  was  done.  At  2  :00  p  m.  the  camp 
started  out  to  proceed  on  the  journey.  I  bid  farewell  to 
to  Bishop  Whitney  and  his  brother  Lyman  and  son 
Joshua,  who  all  returned  from  this  place,  also  Wm.  H. 
Kimball  and  Joseph  B.  Noble.  We  traveled  about  three 
miles  and  encamped  in  a  line  about  six  hundred  yards 
from  timber,  where  there  is  plenty  of  cotton  wood  and 
some  rushes.  This  night  I  slept  with  Philo  Johnson, 
but  having  only  one  quilt,  and  the  night  severely  cold, 
I  suffered  much,  and  took  a  very  bad  cold.  The  country 
in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Elk  Horn  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  I  ever  saw.  The  bluffs  on  the  east  are  nicely 
rolling  and  beautifully  lined  with  timber,  and  some  very 
nice  cedar  groves.  From  these  bluffs  a  little  above  the 
ferry  you  can  see  the  meanderings  of  the  Platte  River, 
and  the  beautiful  level  bottom  on  the  north  of  it,  about 
fifteen  miles  wide  for  many  miles  up  the  river.  The  Horn 
is  a  beautiful  river  about  150  feet  wide  and  about  four 
feet  deep. 

SATURDAY,  I?TH.  This  morning  the  weather  Is 
severely  cold,  with  a  strong  wind  from  the  north  and 
northwest.  We  started  out  at  nine  o'clock  and  traveled 
till  near  12:00  the  distance  being  about  seven  miles.  We 
camped  close  by  a  cottonwood  grove,  and  the  brethren 
fell  hundreds  of  them  to  feed  their  teams  and  save  corn. 
There  is  a  small  lake  close  by  but  the  water  is  not  good 
and  the  brethren  go  to  the  river  about  a  half  a  mile.  At 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  79 

5 :00  p.  ni.  the  camps  were  called  together  and  organ- 
ized in  military  order  as  follows  : 

Brigham  Young.  Lieutenant  General. 

Stephen  Markham,  Colonel. 

John  Pack  and  Shadrack  Roundy,  Majors. 

The  Captains  of  10's  to  be  captains  of  10's  in  this 
order,  except  John  Pack,  who  being  appointed  major, 
Appleton  M.  Harmon  was  appointed  captain  in  his  stead. 

Thomas  Bullock,  clerk  of  the  camp.  Thomas  Tan- 
ner captain  of  the  cannon  with  the  privilege  of  choosing 
eight  men  to  manage  it  in  case  of  necessity.  The  Presi- 
dent then  said :  "After  we  start  from  here,  every  man 
must  keep  his  loaded  gun  in  his  hand,  or  in  the  wagon 
where  he  can  put  his  hand  on,  it  at  a  moment's  warning. 
If  they  are  cap  locks,  take  off  the  cap  and  put  on  a  little 
leather  to  keep  wet  and  etc.  out.  If  flint  locks,  take  out 
the  priming  and  fill  the  pan  with  twine  or  cotton,"  etc. 

The  wagons  must  keep  together  when  traveling,  and 
not  separate  as  they  have  previously  done,  and  every 
man  to  walk  beside  his  own  wagon,  and  not  leave  it  only 
by  permission.  A  while  before  evening  one  of  the  trad- 
er's wagons  came  from  the  Pawnee  village,  loaded  with 
furs  and  peltry,  and  camped  about  one  quarter  of  a  mile 
below  us.  At  night  Eames  and  Hanson  played  some  on 
their  violins.  All  peace  and  quietness.  At  night  I  slept 
with  Egan  in  Heber's  wagon.  Heber  being  gone  to  sleep 
with  President  Young. 

SUNDAY.  18TH.  This  morning  I  wrote  a  letter  for 
Heber  to  his  wife  Yilate.  which  was  sent  by  Brother 
Ellis  Eames  who  has  concluded  to  go  back  on  account 
of  poor  health,  spitting  blood,  etc.  He  started  back  with 
the  trader's  wagon  about  eight  o'clock  a.  m.  The  wind 


80  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

this  morning  east  and  southeast  and  very  cold,  with  a 
slight  shower  of  snow.  At  10:00  a.  m.  seven  more  trad- 
ers' wagons  came  in  and  stopped  about  one  quarter  of 
a  mile  below  us,  soon  after  six  mules  loaded  with  robes 
and  furs.  These  traders  say  they  have  come  from  the 
Pawnee  village  in  two  days.  Brother  Roundy  got  some 
Pmffalo  meat  from  them  and  gave  me  a  little,  which  I 
thought  tasted  very  good.  I  commenced  writing  Heber's 
journal  and  wrote  considerable.  He  wants  me  to  write 
his  journal  all  the  journey.  I  also  wrote  considerable  in 
this  book.  Afternoon  the  weather  more  moderate  and 
pleasant,  the  wind  has  changed  near  south  and  the  sun 
shines.  I  walked  with  Horace  Whitney  to  the  river 
which  is  about  a  half  a  mile.  At  4:30  p.  m.  father  James 
Case  was  cutting  a  cottonwood  tree  to  brouse  his  horses, 
and  just  as  it  fell  the  wind  struck  it  and  threw  it  directly 
contrary  to  the  direction  he  intended  it  to  fall.  The  con- 
sequence was,  one  of  the  limbs  struck  an  ox  on  the  neck 
and  knocked  him  down.  His  right  eye  was  knocked 
down  in  the  socket  out  of  sight.  The  ox  doesn't  seem 
seriously  hurt  otherwise.  About  10  minutes  after  it  was 
done,  the  eye  turned  back  to  its  place,  and  the  ox  seems 
to  have  sustained  little  injury.  At  5  :00  p.  m.,  the  officers 
of  the  camp  met  with  President  Young,  and  he  told  the 
order  for  traveling  and  camping  hereafter,  which  was 
communicated  to  the  companies  by  the  Captains  of  10's 
as  follows: 

At  5  :00  in  the  morning  the  bugle  is  to  be  sounded  as 
a  signal  for  every  man  to  arise  and  attend  prayers  be- 
fore he  leaves  his  wagon.  Then  cooking,  eating,  feed- 
ing teams,  etc.,  till  seven  o'clock,  at  which  time  the  camp 


WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  81 

is  to  move  at  the  sound  of  the  bugle.  Each  teamster  to 
keep  beside  his  team,  with  his  loaded  gun  in  his  hands 
or  in  his  wagon  where  he  can  get  it  in  a  moment. 
The  extra  men,  each  to  walk  opposite  his  wagon  with  his 
loaded  gun  on  his  shoulder,  and  no  man  to  be  permitted 
to  leave  his  wagon  unless  he  obtains  permission  from  his 
officer.  In  case  of  an  attack  from  Indians  or  hostile  * 
appearances,  the  wagons  to  travel  in  double  file.  The  ^r 
order  of  encampment  to  be  in  a  circle  with  the  mouth  of 
the  wagon  to  the  outside,  and  the  horses  and  stock  tied 
inside  the  circle.  At  8 :30  p.  m.  the  bugle  to  be  sounded 
again  at  which  time  all  to  have  prayers  in  their  wagons 
and  to  retire  to  rest  by  nine  o'clock.  Tonight  I  went  to 
bed  about  seven-thirty  o'clock  suffering  severely  with 
pain  in  my  head  and  face.  I  slept  with  Philo  Johnson. 

MONDAY,  19xH.  At  5  :00  a.  m.,  at  the  sound  of  the 
bugle  I  arose,  my  face  still  paining  me  very  badly.  After 
eating  breakfast,  I  started  out  on  foot,  before  the  wagons 
started,  with  my  rifle  on  my  shoulder.  At  7  : 15  the  wagons 
began  to  move  and  at  7 :30  were  all  formed  in  double 
file  and  proceeded  on.  After  traveling  about  eight  miles 
we  arrived  at  a  number  of  small  lakes,  where  were  many 
ducks.  A  number  of  the  brethren  shot  at  them  and  killed 
several.  At  1 :15  p.  m.  we  arrived  at  a  bend  in  the  river 
where  a  small  stream  runs  around  an  island. 

\Ye  stayed  here  to  feed  awhile,  having  traveled  about 
fifteen  miles  mostly  a  western  course  with  the  wind  south. 
The  roads  very  good  and  the  country  very  level  on  these 
flat  bottoms  of  the  Platte  river  which  bottoms  appear  to 
be  from  ten  to  fifteen  miles  wide.  Soon  after  the  camp 
was  formed,  O.  P.  Rockwell,  Jackson  Redding,  ami  J.  C. 


82  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

Little  came  in  from  Winter  Quarters.  They  arrived  at 
2:10.  They  have  found  Dr.  Richard's  mare  which  was 
lost  east  of  the  Elk  Horn  and  brought  her  to  camp.  They 
brought  me  a  line  from  Diantha  and  one  from  Ruth  and 
Margaret.  In  the  last  was  a  very  gentle  piece  of  informa- 
tion which  has  caused  me  to  reflect  much,  and  proves 
to  me  that  Ruth  and  Margaret's  virtue  and  integrity  have 
for  the  last  year  been  far  superior  to  mine.  In  my  letter 
to  them  I  requested  them  to  attend  to  family  prayer  in 
my  absence,  a  thing  which  I  have  neglected  since  leav- 
ing Nauvoo.  They  informed  me  that  they  had  done  that 
when  I  was  at  home  but  unknown  to  me,  and  they  had 
then,  and  still  continue  to  bear  me  up  before  their  Heav- 
enly Father.  Oh,  what  integrity,  what  faithfulness.  I  feel 
unworthy  to  possess  two  such  treasures,  but  still  feel  to 
try  to  reward  them  for  it,  and  may  my  Father  in  heaven 
bless  them,  and  all  my  family  and  let  his  angels  guard 
them,  and  me  during  my  absence  that  we  may  all  be  per- 
mitted to  meet  again  and  enjoy  each  other's  society  in  thi.° 
world  for  many  years  to  come,  and  eternal  in  the  world  to 
come.  O !  Lord,  grant  this  prayer  of  thine  unworthy  ser- 
vant, and  fill  my  family  with  peace  and  union,  and  open 
a  way  that  they  may  have  the  necessaries  and  comforts 
of  life,  and  Thy  name  shall  have  the  praise,  even  so, 
amen. 

I  received  by  Porter,  some  few  fish  hooks  and  lines, 
a  ball  of  fish  line  and  three  pencils,  but  no  small  hooks 
nor  knives  or  wafers.  At  twenty  minutes  after  3  :00  p. 
m.  the  wagons  began  to  move  again,  in  the  same  ordet 
as  this  morning  and  traveled  until  6:00  p.  in.  when  we 
arrived  at  a  very  pretty  open  view  of  the  Platte  river. 


Wri.LTAM  CLAYTON'S  JOl'RXAL.  83 

and  the  encampment  was  formed  in  a  semi-circle  on  its 
banks,  having'  traveled  since  noon,  about  five  miles,  and 
in  the  whole  day  20  miles,  over  the  same  kind  of  dry, 
level,  sandy  bottom.  The  river  here  appears  to  be  about 
a  mile  wide  but  very  shoal.  There  is  not  much  timber 
where  we  are  camped,  and  the  water  is  pretty  muddy.  I 
walked  some  this  afternoon  in  company  with  Orson  Pratt 
and  suggested  to  him  the  idea  of  fixing  a  set  of  wooden 
cog  wheels  to  the  hub  of  a  wagon  wheel,  in  such  order 
as  to  tell  the  exact  number  of  miles  we  travel  each  day. 
He  seemed  to  agree  with  me  that  it  could  be  easily  done 
at  a  trifling  expense.  After  the  encampment  was  formed, 
I  went  to  Brother  Luke  Johnson  and  asked  him  to  draw 
my  tooth  which  has  pained  me  so  much  for  a  long  time. 
\Yhile  I  was  speaking  to  him  Stephen  Markham  came 
up,  and  wanted  him  to  take  his  team  and  the  Revenue 
Cutter — the  name  by  which  the  leather  boat  is  called-  - 
back  about  two  miles,  as  they  designed  to  seine  in  one  of 
the  lakes.  Brother  Luke  Johnson  drives  the  team  which 
draws  the  boat  and  rides  in  the  boat  as  in  a  wagon.  I 
concluded  I  would  go  and  watch  them  fish  and  started 
out  on  foot.  I  overtook  Markham  and  John  S.  Higbee 
and  in  our  conversation  I  mentioned  to  Brother  John  S. 
Higbee  the  same  idea  I  had  advanced  to  Orson  Pratt, 
and  he  also  seemed  to  coincide  fully.  After  arriving  at 
the  lake  they  launched  the  boat  and  made  three  hauls. 
They  only  caught  a  snapping  turtle,  four  small  turtles,  one 
duck,  two  small  cat  fish,  and  two  creek  suckers.  They 
then  concluded  to  return  and  I  started  on  foot  again  with 
two  rifles  to  carry.  I  got  back  to  camp  before  they  over- 
took me  and  being  perfectly  tired  and  very  footsore,  went 


84  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

to  bed,  but  had  no  rest  on  account  of  the  severe  pain  in 
my  head  and  face. 

TUESDAY,  20in.  Arose  at  5:30,  my  head  and  face 
very  bad  indeed.  I  ate  but  little  breakfast,  although  we 
had  a  couple  of  ducks  and  a  snipe.  We  started  out  at 
7:30,  the  morning  pleasant  except  a  strong  west  wind. 
At  9:15  arrived  at  Shell  creek,  which  is  about  six  or 
eight  feet  wide,  and  a  poor  bridge  over  it,  but  all  the 
wagons  got  well  over.  This  is  about  five  miles  from 
where  we  camped  last  night.  We  then  passed  through  a 
small  grove  of  timber,  and  entered  again  upon  the  wide, 
open  prairie  bottom.  At  11 :30  we  stopped  beside  a  small 
slough  or  lake  to  feed  and  eat,  etc.,  being  five  miles  from 
Shell  creek.  While  stopping  here,  three  deer  passed 
about  half  a  mile  west  of  the  wagons.  O.  P.  Rockwell 
and  Thomas  Brown  chased  them  on  horses  four  or  five 
miles,  'but  did  not  succeed  in  taking  any  of  them.  The 
wind  has  fallen  considerably  and  it  is  very  warm  and 
dusty.  At  1 :00  p.  in.  started  again,  the  horse  teams  tak- 
ing the  lead,  traveled  about  ten  miles  farther  and  en- 
camped near  a  cottonwood  grove  on  the  banks  of  the 
river.  The  encampment  wras  formed  about  half  past  five. 
Tanner's  bellows  and  anvil  were  set  up  and  a  number  of 
tires  set  before  dark. 

John  S.  Higbee,  Luke  Johnson,  S.  Markham,  and 
some  others,  started  ahead  of  the  camp  about  noon,  and 
went  about  two  miles  farther  than  this  place  to  a  lake 
with  the  boat  and  seine.  They  took  over  200  very  nice 
fish,  and  arrived  with  them  about  the  time  the  camp  was 
formed.  The  fish  were  distributed  around  the  camp 
according  to  the  number  of  persons  in  each  wagon,  gen- 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  85 

erally  two  to  a  wagon,  and  the  brethren  enjoyed,  a  good 
supper  on  fish.  I  went  to  the  river  and  washed  my  feet 
which  were  very  dusty  and  sore.  I  also  washed  my  socks 
as  well  as  I  could  in  cold  water  without  soap.  After 
Brother  Luke  Johnson  had  got  through  distributing  fish, 
I  went  and  a^Vrrl  him  trr  draw  my  tooth.  He  willingly 
agreed  and  getting  his  instruments,  I  sat  down  in  a  chair, 
he  lanced  the  gum,  then  took  his  nippers  and  jerked  it 
out.  The  whole  operation  did  not  take  more  than  one 
minute.  He  only  got  half  the  original  tooth,  the  balance 
being  left  in  the  jaw.  After  this  my  head  and  face  pained 
me  much  more  than  before.  I  ate  but  little  supper  and 
then  lay  down,  but  could  not  sleep  for  pain  till  near  morn- 
ing. The  evening  was  very  calm  and  pleasant. 

WEDNESDAY,  21sT.  Arose  at  5:00,  my  face  easier, 
but  swollen  and  my  gums  raw.  Took  breakfast  on  fish 
and  coffee,  but  ate  no  bread,  it  being  very  dry  and  hard. 
I  could  not  bear  to  put  it  in  my  mouth.  At  seven  started 
on  foot ;  the  ox  teams  being  gone  ahead.  Some  appear- 
ances of  rain,  and  a  slight  showrer  fell.  Wind  northeast 
and  pretty  cool.  At  ten  minutes  to  nine  'an  Indian  rode 
up  to  the  first  wagon  and  appeared  very  friendly.  Soon 
after  six  or  eight  others  came  running  on  foot.  They 
I  came  from  the  timber  about  a  mile  to  the  left.  At  10:00 
we  arrived  at  a  fork  in  the  road,  the  one  on  the  left  lead- 
ing to  the  new  Pawnee  village,  and  the  one  to  the  right 
leaving  the  village  some  distance  to  the  south.  A  con- 
sultation was  held  by  President  Young  with  father  Case 
relative  to  the  roads  crossing  the  river,  etc.,  when  it  wis 
concluded  to  take  the  right  hand  road.  We  proceeclc  I 
accordingly  and  at  12:00  came  in  sight  of  the  new  Pawnee 


86  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

village,  in  an  open  spot  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Loop 
Fork,  between  two  bodies  of  timber.  The  village  appeared 
to  be  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  south  of  the  road  we 
were  on.  At  12:30  we  were  opposite  the  village,  and 
could  then  see  distinctly  upwards  of  100  lodges  set  pretty 
close  together,  and  appeared  to  be  ranged  in  several  lines, 
and  set  in  good  order.  We  proceeded  until  we  arrived 
at  a  long  narrow  lake  by  the  side  of  the  timber  and  near 
to  the  river.  At  1 :00  p.  m.  the  encampment  was  formed 
on  the  bank  of  the  lake  and  a  guard  instantly  placed  at 
the  passes,  as  many  of  the  Indians  had  followed  us,  al- 
though they  had  to  wade  the  river,  but  it  is  very  shoal. 
One  of  the  Indians  presented  several  certificates  from 
persons  who  had  previously  traveled  through  their  vil- 
lage, all  certifying  that  the  Grand  Chief  of  the  Pawnees 
was  friendly  disposed,  and  they  had  made  him  presents 
of  a  little  powder,  lead,  salt,  etc.  Heber  gave  them  a 
little  tobacco,  and  a  little  salt.  President  Young  gave  to 
the  chief,  some  powder,  lead,  salt  and  a  number  of  the 
brethren  gave  a  little  flour  each.  The  old  chief,  however, 
did  not  seem  to  think  the  presents  sufficient,  and  said  he 
did  not  like  us  to  go  west  through  their  country,  he  was 
afraid  we  should  kill  their  buffalo  and  drive  them  off. 
Brother  Shumway  told  him  we  did  not  like  buffalo,  but 
this  does  not  appear  to  give  him  much  satisfaction.  How- 
ever, there  was  no  appearance  of  hostility.  In  fact,  all 
that  came  to  camp  seemed  highly  pleased  to  shake  hands 
with  our  brethren  and  would  run  from  one  side  to  another 
so  as  not  to  miss  one.  A  number  of  the.  squaws  were 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake  with  mattocks  digging 
roots.  Brother  Shumway  says  there  are  about  twelve 


WILLIAM   CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  87 

thousand  of  the  Pawnees  in  this  neighborhood,  and  it  is 
reported  that  there  are  five  thousand  warriors.  We  did 
not  see  many  of  them.  Larpy  is  at  their  village  trading, 
-aid  it  is  uncertain  whether  he  will  endeavor  to  use  an  in- 
fluence for  us  or  against  us.  We  have  no  fear,  however, 
because  their  only  object  appears  to  be  plunder,  and  it  is 
the  calculation  to  be  well  prepared  by  night  and  day.  Dur- 
ing the  resting  hour  I  spent  the  time  writing  in  my 
journal.  At  2:15  p.  in.  the  ox  teams  started  out  again 
and  the  horse  teams  soon  after.  The  weather  had  been 
calm  and  pleasant  for  a  few  hours,  but  about  2 :00  or  a 
little  before,  some  heavy  clouds  began  to  gather,  anu 
thunder  was  heard  at  a  distance.  About  2:30  the  ram 
began  to  descend  heavily,  accompanied  by  heavy  peals  ot 
thunder'  and  vivid  lightning  which  continued  till  about 
4:00  o'clock.  A  strong  north  wind  blew  up,  the  rain 
and  thunder  ceased  and  the  weather  grew  very  cold.  We 
traveled  till  5:30  and  the  encampment  was  formed  on 
the  Loop  Fork  of  the  Platte  river.  After  the  encamp- 
ment was  formed  and  teams  turned  out,  the  brethren 
were  all  called  together  and  some  remarks  made  by 
President  Young,  advising  them  to  have  a  strong  guard 
round  the  camps  tonight.  He  called  for  volunteers  to 
stand  guard  and  about  100  volunteered  amongst  whom 
were  all  the  twelve  except  Dr.  Richards.  This  guard  was 
divided  into  two  companies  of  fifty  each,  one  company 
to  stand  the  first  half  the  night,  and  the  remainder  the  last 
half.  Those  of  the  twelve  who  stood  took  the  first  watch 
till  1  :00  o'clock.  Brigham  and  Heber  both  stood  on  guard. 
Out  of  the  companies  a  party  were  stationed  as  a  picket 
guard  some  distance  from  the  camp,  the  balance  stood 


88  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

near  the  camp.  The  night  was  very  cold,  with  a  strong 
wind  from  the  northeast,  and  in  the  middle  of  the  night, 
it  rained  considerable.  Our  course  this  morning  was 
about  west.  This  afternoon,  northwest.  We  are  now 
within  three  miles  from  the  bluffs  on  the  north.  We 
have  traveled  today  about  twenty  miles,  the  roads  being 
good  and  very  level.  The  grass  here  is  short  but  looks 
good.  The  buffalo  grass  is  very  short  and  curly  like 
the  hair  on  a  buffalo  robe.  The  spring  grass  doesn't 
seem  to  be  as  early  here  as  at  the  Elk  Horn,  and  the  last 
year's  growth  not  being  burnt  off,  will  be  rather  a  disad- 
vantage to  the  spring  companies.  I  have  noticed  all  the 
way  on  this  bottom  from  the  Elk  Horn,  that  the  ground 
is  full  of  wild  onions  which  appear  far  richer  and  larger 
than  any  wild  onions  I  ever  saw.  I  have  no  idea  that 
corn  would  grow  here  for  the  land  is  very  dry  and  loose 
and  sandy,  and  appears  poor.  The  country  is  beautiful 
and  pleasing  to  the  eye  of  the  traveler,  although  you  can 
only  see  one  kind  of  scenery  for  several  days. 

THURSDAY,  22ND.  Arose  soon  after  5  :00  a.  m.,  my 
face  very  painful  again  caused  by  the  cold.  There  has 
been  no  trouble  from  the  Indians  and  all  is  peace  and 
safe.  The  cannon  was  prepared  for  action,  and  stood  all 
night  just  outside  the  wagons.  There  was  considerable 
joking  this  morning  on  account  of  two  of  the  picket  guard 
having  their  guns  stolen  an<]  Colonel  Markham  having  his 
hat  stolen.  The  owners  were  found  asleep  while  on  guard 
and  those  who  found  them  so,  took  their  guns  to  be  a 
warning  to  them,  but  it  is  difficult  for  men  to  keep  awake 
night  after  night  after  traveling  20  miles  in  the  day,  tak- 
ing care  of  teams,  cooking,  etc.  At  7:30  the  camp  pro- 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  89 

ceeded  again.  I  went  ahead  on  foot.  About  one  quarter 
of  a  mile  from  where  we  camped  is  one  of  the  prettiest 
beds  of  nettle  I  have  seen  for  some  time.  Our  road  this 
morning  lay  beside  pretty  heavy  timber,  and  about  a 
westerly  course.  After  traveling  two  miles,  crossed  Look- 
ing Glass  creek,  a  small  stream  about  a  rod  wide,  but 
easily  forded.  I  still  went  ahead  on  foot  and  at  9  :45  sat 
down  on  an  Indian  grave,  on  top  of  a  mound  from  whence 
is  a  splendid  view  of  the  surrounding  country  for  many 
miles.  From  southeast  to  southwest  you  can  see  the 
course  of  the  Loop  Fork  for  a  number  of  miles.  North- 
west a  level  prairie  about  four  miles  and  then  a  range 
of  timber.  The  bluffs  on  the  north  about  seven  miles 
distant,  and  on  the  east  a  level  prairie  for  about  twenty 
miles.  At  this  place  there  is  a  range  of  what  appears  to 
be  mounds  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  long,  running  from 
northeast  to  southwest.  At  12:15  we  arrived  on  the  east 
bank  of  Beaver  River,  having  traveled  about, ten  miles. 
This  stream  is  about  twenty  to  twenty-five  feet  wide ; 
swift,  clear  water  and  pleasant  tasting.  The  banks  are 
tolerably  well  lined  with  timber.  Here  we  stopped  to 
feed.  Some  of  the  brethren  went  to  fix  the  fording  place 
a  little,  the  banks  are  steep  on  each  side  and  the  water 
a  little  over  two  feet  deep.  At  2 :00  p.  m.  started  again, 
the  ox  teams  first.  When  passing  the  river  a  number  of 
the  brethren  stood  on  the  west  bank  with  a  long  rope 
which  was  hooked  to  the  wagon  tongue  and  they  assisted 
the  teams  up  the  bank.  The  wagon  I  rode  in  crossed  at 
two  minutes  after  2:00,  and  in  a  little  while  all  were 
safely  over.  We  proceeded  on  till  half  past  five,  when 
we  arrived  at  the  Pawnee  Missionary  station  which  is 


90  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

about  seven  miles  from  Beaver  River.  The  country  this 
afternoon  was  more  uneven,  there  being  many  steep 
Ditches  and  rises.  The  grass  appears  longer  and  there  is 
much  rosing  weed.  The  soil  looks  black  and  no  doubt 
would  yield  a  good  crop  of  corn.  This  missionary  sta- 
tion was  deserted  last  fall,  and  Brother  Miller's  company 
being  camped  here,  they  carried  the  missionaries  and  their 
effects  to  Bellview  on  the  Missouri  river.  This  is  a  very 
beautiful  place  for  a  location.  On  the  north  and  west  it 
is  surrounded  by  bluffs,  on  the  south  by  the  Loop  Fork  at 
about  there  quarters  of  a  mile  distance.  On  the  east  by 
descending  prairie.  The  Plumb  Creek  runs  through  it, 
and  but  a  few  rods  from  the  missionaries'  house.  Its 
banks  are  lined  with  a  little  timber.  There  is  also  a  steep 
bank  on  each  side,  and  between  these  banks  in  the  valley 
which  is  a  few  rods  wide,  the  Sioux  have  practiced  com- 
ing down  when  they  nave  made  their  attacks  on  tnc 
Pawnees.,  The  ravine  is  certainly  well  calculated  to 
shelter  an  enemy  from  observation  when  designing  to 
make  a  sudden  attack.  There  are  a  number  of  good  log 
houses  here,  considerable  land  under  improvement  en- 
closed by  rail  fences,  and  a  good  quantity  of  hay  and 
fodder,  large  lots  of  iron,  old  and  new,  several  plows  and 
a  drag.  All  apparently  left  to  rot.  There  are  also  two 
stoves,  etc.  The  government  station  is  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  below,  or  south  where  father  Case  lived  as  govern- 
ment farmer  and  received  $300.00  a  year  for  it.  but  when 
Major  Harvey  learned  at  the  last  payday,  which  was 
last  November,  that  father  Case  had  joined  the  ''Mor- 
mons" he  very  politely  dismissed  him  from  the  govern- 
ment service.  The  Sioux  came  down  sometime  aex)  and 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL  91 

burned  up  the  government  station  houses,  blacksmith 
shop  and  everything,  but  the  missionary  station  they  did 
not  touch.  This  place  according  to  my  account  is  134 
miles  from  Winter  Quarters,  and  a  lovely  place  to  live. 
Before  dark  the  President  called  the  camp  together,  and 
told  them  they  might  use  the  fodder  and  hay  for  their 
teams,  but  forbade  any  man  carrying  anything  away,  even 
to  the  value  of  one  cent.  He  said  he  had  no  fears  of  the 
Pawnees  troubling  us  here,  but  we  had  better  be  prepareo 
lest  the  Sioux  should  come  down  and  try  to  .steal  horses. 
A  guard  was  selected  and  a  picket  guard  to  watch  the 
ravine  to  the  north.  The  cannon  was  also  prepared  and 
Brother  Tanner  drilled  his  men  to  use  it  till  dark.  At 
9  :00  p.  m.  I  retired  to  rest  and  slept  well  through  the 
night.  The  variation  of  the  compass  is  about  12  degree? 
at  this  place. 

I  again  introduced  the  subject  of  fixing  machinerv 
to  a  was'on  wheel  to  tell  the  distance  we  travel,  describ- 
ing the  machinery  and  time  it  would  take  to  make  it, 
etc.,  several  caught  the  idea  and  feel  confident  of  its 
success. 

FRIDAY,  23  RD.  Arose  this  morning  at  5  :30,  my  face 
bad  again  through  sleeping  cold.  The  air  chilly  but  a 
very  pleasant  morning.  President  Young,  Heber  and 
others  are  gone  to  the  river  to  ascertain  where  we  can 
best  ford  it.  There  is  a  ford  a  little  distance  from  here, 
and  another  about  four  miles  above,  but  the  latter  is  in 
the  neighborhood  of  another  band  of  the  Pawnees  and 
they  are  desirous  to  avoid  it  if  possible.  They  started 
out  on  horseback  at  a  quarter  to  eight  and  the  camp  re- 
mained here  till  they  returned.  Some  are  working,  some 


92  WILLIAM    CLAYTON  S   JOURNAL. 

fixing  wagons,  etc.  The  day  is  now  warm  and  very  pleas- 
ant. I  went  to  Plumb  creek  and  washed  my  feet  which 
are  very  sore.  The  brethren  returned  at  a  quarter  to 
12:00  and  reported  that  we  would  have  to  go  about  four 
miles  and  there  build  a  raft.  Tarlton  Lewis  was  ap- 
pointed to  superintend  the  building  of  the  raft.  Presi- 
dent Young  then  stated  in  regard  to  the  plows,  iron,  etc., 
which  lies  around  here,  for  the  government  is  owing 
father  Case  considerable  for  services,  and  he  has  the  priv- 
ilege of  taking  this  for  his  pay.  He  will  do  it  and  if 
the  brethren  want  the  iron,  etc.,  they  can  have  by  haul- 
ing it,  one  half,  and  father  Case  the  other  half,  and  he 
(Case)  will  write  and  inform  them  what  he  has  done.  I 
started  on  foot  about  12  :00  o'clock  and  viewed  the  ruins 
of  buildings,  etc.,  which  the  Sioux  have  burned.  There  is 
a  large  quantity  of  good  bar  iron,  and  a  number  of  plows, 
which  the  brethren  put  into  their  wagons  on  the  terms 
proposed  by  father  Case.  Two  miles  from  Plumb  creek, 
passed  another  creek  not  very  good  to  ford,  although  it 
is  narrow  but  sandy.  Two  miles  farther  arrived  at  the 
intended  crossing  place,  but  the  prospect  looks  dull  for 
rafting  on  account  of  sandbars  and  very  rapid  current. 
My  feet  were  so  sore  and  blistered  I  could  not  walk  for 
some  time  after  I  got  there.  The  sun  is  very  hot  and  no 
wind.  At  3  :20  the  wagons  arrived  and  prepared  to  ford 
the  river.  Luke  Johnson  was  the  first  who  went  over, 
leaving  the  boat  on  this  side,  and  although  he  had  no 
load,  nor  even  a  wagon  box,  it  was  with  difficulty  he  got 
over.  Orson  Pratt  started  next  with  a  part  of  his  load. 
When  he  had  got  in  about  a  rod,  his  horses  began  to  s'nk 
some  in  the  sand  and  they  could  not  draw.  A  number  of 


WILLIAM!  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  93 

the  brethren  jumped  in  and  lifted  at  the  wheels,  etc.,  ti'1 
they  got  him  to  the  bar  in  the  middle.  lie  then  started 
for  the  other  bar  and  about  half  way  across  his  horses 
sank  in  the  quicksand  so  badly  that  one  of  them  fell  down- 
A  number  of  the  men  immediately  went  to  his  assistance 
and  took  them  off  the  wagon  and  led  them  across  to  the 
sand  bar.  President  Young  went  over  in  the  boat  and 
took  the  loading  out  of  the  carriage  into  the  boat.  The 
carriage  was  drawn  to  the  sand  bar  by  men  with  a  long 
rope.  The  brethren  then  assisted  Elder  Woodruff's  team 
over  in  the  same  way,  also  John  Pack's  and  Words- 
worth's. President  Young  then  ordered  that  no  more 
wagons  should  go  over  that  way,  but  move  up  the  river 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  and  camp  until  morning.  The 
camp  was  formed  about  5 :30  p.  m.  The  river  is  not 
more  than  two  feet  deep,  but  there  are  a  great  many 
beds  of  quicksand  which  are  dangerous  to  teams,  and 
calculated  to  shake  a  wagon  to  pieces.  They  make  a 
noise  when  crossing  the  quicksands  as  if  they  were  going 
over  a  stone  pavement. 

The  country  here  is  indeed  beautiful  and  appears  rich, 
but  there  is  very  little  timber.  After  crossing  Plumb 
creek,  there  is  plowed  land  for  nearly  two  miles  on  the 
right  but  not  fenced.  It  apears  to  have  yielded  a  good 
crop  of  corn.  The  land  on  the  left  to  the  river  is  level  and 
beautiful  for  a  farm.  We  are  now  camped  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  old  Pawnee  village  on  a  splen- 
did table  of  land,  level  and  pleasant  as  heart  could  desire. 
It  is  not  much  over  three  quarters  of  a  mile  wide  and 
shielded  on  the  north  by  beautiful  rolling  bluffs  and  on 
the  south  by  the  Loop  Fork  of  the  Platte.  From  this 


94  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

bank  can  be  seen  the  timber  on  the  banks  of  the  main 
Platte,  the  bottom  from  here  to  it  appears  very  level. 
There  is  something  romantic  in  the  scenry  around  here, 
and  the  prospect  cannot  well  be  exaggerated. 

In  the  evening  the  captains  of  tens  were  called  to- 
gether and  a  vote  taken  to  build  two  light  rafts,  Tarl- 
ton  Lewis  to  superintend  one  and  Thomas  Woolsey  the 
other.  As  many  loads  of  property  as  can  be  carried  over 
in  the  boat  will  be  done,  and  the  teams  with  empty 
svagons  will  ford  it.  It  is  said  that  by  going  over  several 
times  with  teams  the  sand  will  pack  down  and  be  good 
crossing,  several  of  those  who  have  been  across  believe 
this  from  today's  experience  and  they  calculate  to  give 
it  a  fair  trial  tomorrow.  Amongst  the  rest  of  those  who 
waded  the  river  to  help  the  wagons  over,  Brother  Kim- 
ball  joined  and  assisted  one  team  to  the  other  side,  and 
then  returned  in  the  boat  with  President  Young. 

SATURDAY,  24xn.  Arose  soon  after  5:00.  Morning 
fine,  but  cool.  One  of  Phineas  Young's  horses  was 
choked  to  death  last  night.  It  appears  he  was  tied  to  a 
stake  with  a  chain  near  a  steep  hole  in  the  ravine,  and 
either  stepped  back  or  lay  down  and  rolled  over  into  the 
hole,  and  the  chain  being  short  he  was  choked  to  death, 
having  no  power  to  extricate  himself.  This  is  a  grievous 
loss  for  there  are  no  more  teams  in  the  camp  than  what 
are  absolutely  necessary,  and  in  fact,  there  are  hardly 
enough  to  get  along  very  comfortably.  By  request  of 
Brother  Kimball,  I  went  up  to  the  old  Indian  village  im- 
mediately after  breakfast  to  take  a  view  of  it,  and  write 
a  description  as  near  as  circumstances  would  permit  which 
is  as  follows : 


\YTI.T.TAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  95 

This  village  is  situated  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Loop 
Fork  of  the  Nebraska  or  Platte  river,  about  four  miles 
southwest  of  the  mission  station  on  Plumb  creek  and  138 
miles  from  Winter  Quarters.  The  Pawnee  nation  is 
divided  into  four  bands.  The  names  of  the  bands  are 
the  Grand  Pawnee,  the  Loop,  the  Tappas,  and  the  Re- 
publican, ^"hen  the  nation  settled  in  this  region  the 
Grand  Pawnees  and  the  Tappas  located  on  the  west  bank 
of  Plumb  creek  and  the  Loops  located  on  this  spot  and 
were  afterwards  joined  by  the  Republicans.  \Yhen  the 
Sioux  made  war  on  the  Indians  at  the  first  settlement 
and  destroyed  their  village,  the  Grand  Chief  saw  that 
his  party  were  unable  to  cope  with  their  hostile  foes  alone, 
and  it  was  concluded  that  the  four  bands  should  locate 
together  on  this  spot,  but  notwithstanding  this,  the  Sioux 
succeeded  in  burning  this  village  last  summer  during  the 
absence  of  the  Pawnees  when  on  their  hunt.  They  re- 
built most  of  it  again,  but  last  fall  the  Sioux  made  an- 
other attack  and  burned  the  whole  village  except  one 
dwelling  or  lodge,  which  is  not  harmed.  There  are  three 
or  four  others  but  partially  destroyed,  the  rest  are  en- 
tirely demolished  and  levelled  with  the  ground.  The 
Pawnees  then  moved  to  the  place  where  we  passed  them 
a  few  days  ago,  and  are  dwelling  in  their  lodges  made 
of  hides,  etc.  The  name  of  the  Grand  Chief  is  Shefmo- 
lan,  who  is  also  the  superior  chief  of  the  Pawnee  band. 
All  documents  or  treaties  made  by  the  nation  are  signed 
by  this  chief  and  the  nation  is  then  bound  by  them.  The 
head  chief  of  the  Loup  band  is  named  Siscatup,  the 
other  chiefs,  father  Case  did  not  recollect  their  names. 
From  him  I  obtained  this  information.  There  is  a  part 


96  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

of  the  Lotip  band  on  the  main  Platte,  some  distance  from 
here,  who  have  never  yielded  to  the  government  treaties, 
but  stand  out  from  the  rest  of  the  nation  and  spend  their 
time  mostly  in  plundering  other  tribes  as  well  as  travelers. 
They  frequently  go  as  far  as  the  Cherokee  nation  to  rob 
and  plunder.  All  the  Pawnee  nation  are  noted  for  their 
love  of  plundering  travelers  of  their  horses  and  mules. 
but  not  often  anything  else. 

On  the  east  and  west  of  the  village  is  a  beautiful 
level  bench  of  prairie  extending  many  miles,  and  to  the 
ridge  of  bluffs  which  run  east  and  west  touching  within 
a  mile  of  the  village.  On  the  top  of  the  bluffs  can  be 
seen  a  number  of  Indian  graves.  To  the  northwest  about 
a  mile  distant,  and  at  the  foot  of  the  bluffs  is  an  ex- 
tensive corn  field,  the  stalks  still  standing.  On  the  south 
is  a  beautiful  view  of  the  nice  level  prairie  extending 
to  the  main  branch  of  the  Platte,  the  timber  on  the  banks 
can  be  faintly,  but  plainly  seen.  The  Loup  Fork  is  prob- 
ably about  400  yards  wide  at  this  place  and  very  shoal, 
except  a  narrow  channel  near  the  shore  on  this  side 
which  is  probably  three  feet  deep.  The  bottom  is  mostly 
quicksand  and  not  safe  fording.  About  half  the  surface 
from  bank  to  bank  is  sand  bars  which  appear  above  the 
surface  of  the  water  mostly  on  the  south  side.  There 
are  several  small  islands  and  a  little  timber  to  the  right 
or  west.  The  village  occupies  a  space  of  about  40  acres 
of  land,  and  is  mostly  enclosed  by  a  ditch  about  five  feet 
wide,  and  a  bank  inside  the  ditch  about  four  feet  high, 
running  from  the  bank  of  the  river  around  the  village  till 
it  again  strikes  the  bank,  and  when  perfect,  has  formed  a 
good  fortification.  A  number  of  lodges  are  built  outside 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  97 

the  ditch  on  the  east  and  on  account  of  want  of  room  in- 
side when  the  bands  from  the  other  village  joined  them. 
The  village  is  composed  of  about  200  houses  or  lodges 
varying  in  size  but  all  similiarly  constructed,  as  appears 
from  the  remnants  of  some  left  standing.     While  I  take 
this  sketch,  I  sit  in  the  one  left  unharmed,  which  it  is 
said  was  owned  by  the  chief  Siscatup.  and  as  the  lodges 
are  all  constructed  in  the  same  manner,  only  differing  in 
size,  I  will  endeavor  to  describe  the  way  in  which  this  is 
built.     In  the  first  place,  the  earth  is  dug  out  a  little, 
slanting  to  the  depth  of  about  18  inches  in  the  form  of 
a  perfect  circle  about  44  feet  in  diameter.    This  forms  the 
floor  of  the  dwelling.     Then  there  are   17  crotch  posts 
let  into  the  floor  in  a  direction  slanting  outward  so  that 
the  top  of  the  crotch  is  about  perpendicular  with  the  out- 
side of  the  circle,  the  foot  being  set  about  18  or  20  inches 
from  the  base  of  the  circle.    These  posts  are  arranged  at 
about  equal  distances  from  each  other  around  the  circle. 
In  the  crotches,  poles     are  laid  across  from     crotch  to 
crotch,  and  are  sufficiently  high  for  the  tallest  man  to 
stand  upright  under  them.     At  the  distance  of  18  or  20 
inches  from  the  outside  of  the  circle  are  many  smaller 
poles  let  into  the  surface  of  the  ground,  on  an  average  of 
about  a  foot  apart  and  leaning  inward  so  that  the  top  of 
the  poles  rest  on  the  cross  pieces  which  are  supported  by 
the  crotcres.  The  space  between  the  foot  of  these  poles 
and  the  edge  of  the  circle  forms  a  bench  for  seats  entirely 
around  the  house,  and  there  is  room  sufficient  for  more 
than  a  hundred  men  to  seat  themselves  on  it  very  com- 
fortably.    On  the  outside  of  these  last  mentioned  poles 
are  laid  a  number  of  still  smaller  poles  horizontally  from 


98  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

bottom  to  top  from  about  9  inches  to  a  foot  apart,  these 
are  lashed  fast  to  the  upright  poles  by  strings  made  of 
bark.  On  the  outside  of  these  is  laid  a  thick  layer  of  long' 
prairie  grass  and  occasionally  lashed  through  to  the  up- 
right poles  also.  The  whole  is  then  covered  with  earth 
about  two  feet  in  thickness  at  the  bottom  and  gradually 
thinner  towards  the  top.  This  forms  an  enclosure  when 
completed  around  the  whole  area  about  seven  feet  high, 
a  place  being  left  sufficiently  large  for  the  door.  The 
next  process  is  to  place  erect  ten  upright  poles  or  crotches, 
very  stout,  being  about  a  foot  in  -diameter  about  seven 
feet  nearer  the  center  of  the  circle  than  the  first  crotches. 
These  are  set  perpendicular,  deep  in  the  ground 
and  also  arranged  at  about  equal  distances  from  each 
other,  and  form  a  strong  foundation  which  is 
the  design  and  use  to  which  they  are  appropriated.  On 
the  top  of  these  pillars  are  also  horizontal  poles  laid  strong 
and  firm,  the  top  of  the  pillars  being  about  ojeven  or 
twelve  feet  above  the  floor.  Long  small  poles  are  then 
laid  from  the  outside  horizontal  poles  over  the  inner  ones 
and  sufficiently  long  to  meet  at  the  top  within  about  two 
feet  of  each  other,  forming  a  hole  for  the  smoke  from 
the  fire  to  ascend  through.  Th^c^  1ong  poles  are  laid 
pretty  close  together  all  around  the  building,  and  across 
them  smaller  ones  are  lashed  with  bark  as  in  the  first  in- 
stance, only  they  are  much  closer  together.  The  opera- 
tion of  lashing  on  a  layer  of  long  grass  and  finally  cov- 
ering the  whole  with  earth,  completes  the  roof  of  the 
building.  The  door  or  entrance  is  a  long  porch  formed 
by  placing  in  the  earth  four  upright  posts  or  crotch-?- 
far  enough  apart  to  extend  outwards  from  the  circle, 


WILLIAM.  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  99 

about  18  or  20  feet.  There  are  four  upright  crotches 
on  each  side  the  porch  and  in  the  crotches,  poles  are  laid 
horizontally  as  in  the  other  parts  of  the  building.  The 
process  of  lashing  sticks  across,  then  a  thick  coat  of  long 
grass  and  lastly  a  stout  coat  of  earth,  is  the  same  as  the 
other  parts  of  the  building.  The  roof  of  the  porch  is 
flat  and  is  about  seven  feet  high  and  six  feet  wide.  The 
porch  is  dug  down  about  half  as  deep  as  the  main  building, 
making  a  short  step  at  the  mouth  of  the  porch  and  another 
one  at  the  entrance  into  the  house.  The  fire  has  been 
made  in  the  center  of  the  house  directly  under  the  hole 
in  the  roof. 

At  the  farther  side  of  the  building,  exactly  opposite 
the  porch,  is  a  projection  of  sod  left  about  a  foot  from 
the  outside  of  the  circle  which  is  said  to  have  been  the 
seat  of  the  chief,  and  over  which  hung  his  medicine  bag 
and  other  implements. 

The  crotches  are  arranged  so  that  there  is  a  free 
passage  to  the  center  of  the  hall  from  the  porch  one 
standing  on  each  side  at  the  entrance  about  six  feet  apart 
and  the  others  apppear  to  be  arranged  from,  them.  The 
smaller  houses  have  not  so  many  pillars  sts  this  one.  Some 
have  eight  in  the  center  and  sixteen  outside  the  circle. 
Others  have  four  in  the  center  and  ten  outside.  The  en- 
trances are  also  smaller  'in  proportion,  but  all  are  con- 
structed on  the  same  principle.  It  looks  a  little  singular 
to  note  that  nearly  all  the  entrances  to  these  lodges  front 
to  the  southeast,  except  in  one  or  two  instances  where 
they  front  in  other  directions  for  lack  of  room.  It  is 
probable  that  this  is  done  to  avoid  the  effects  of  the 
severe  cold  northwest  winds  so  prevalent  in  winter. 


100  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

Adjacent  to  each  lodge  is  a  stable  or  pen,  which  has 
been  designed  for  keeping'  horses  in.  These  are 
mostly  left  unharmed.  They  are  constructed  by  placing 
poles  upright  in  the  ground  from  two  to  three  inches  in 
diameter  as  close  together  as  possible  and  about  ten  feet 
high.  About  five  or  six  feet  above  the  ground  cross  poles 
are  laid  horizontally,  and  each  of  the  upright  poles  are 
firmly  lashed  to  the  cross  poles  by  strips  of  bark,  so  as  to 
make  them  firm  and  secure  them  from  being  moved  out 
of  their  place.  The  stables  are  mostly  built  square,  with 
a  door  left  on  one  side  sufficiently  large  to  admit  a  horse. 
There  are  some  circular  stables  but  not  so  many  as  the 
square  ones.  The  horses  appear  to  have  been  penned  in 
by  placing  loose  poles  across  the  doorway,  for  there  is 
no  other  sign  of  a  door  visible. 

Around  each  lodge  there  are  also  several  cachets 
where  corn  and  other  necessities  are  deposited.  The 
cachets  are  large  holes  dug  in  the  ground,  or  rather  un- 
der the  ground,  the  entrance  being  only  just  large  enough 
to  admit  a  common  sized  man.  They  are  made  pretty 
much  after  the  shape  of  a  large  demijon.  The  cachets 
are  generally  about  six  feet  high  inside  and  about  fifteen 
feet  in  diameter ;  there  is  a  gradual  slope  from  the  mouth 
to  the  extreme  corner  and  a  little  bowing,  which  forms 
the  roof.  The  surface  of  the  earth  above,  at  the  mouth, 
is  about  two  and  a  half  or  three  feet  deep.  Some 
of  these  are  said  to  be  capable  of  holding  a  hundred 
bushels  of  corn,  and  when  filled  there  is  a  thick  coat  of 
grass  laid  on  the  top  and  the  mouth  then  filled  up  nicely 
with  earth,  and  when  finished  a  stranger  would  not  have 


WILLIAM   CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  101 

the   least  suspicion  that  there  was  a  storehouse   full  of 
corn  under  his  feet. 

I  finished  taking  the  foregoing  sketch  soon  after 
noon,  and  then  had  intended  to  go  on  the  bluffs  and  ex- 
amine the  Indian  graves,  but  it  being  very  warm,  and 
perceiving  the  teams  crossing  the  river  very  rapidly,  I 
returned,  and  found  most  of  the  teams  over.  They  com- 
menced crossing  about  eight  o'clock,  some  unloaded  their 
goods  on  the  bank  which  were  carried  in  the  boat  to  the 
sand  bar,  the  teams  going  down  to  the  ferry  to  cross. 
After  a  few  wagons  had  gone  over,  it  was  perceived  that 
they  went  over  with  less  difficulty,  and  by  doubling  teams 
they  soon  took  over  the  loaded  wagons  without  much 
difficulty.  I  prepared  to  wade  over  the  river,  inasmuch  as 
the  wagon  I  am  with  was  gone  over,  and  in  fact,  all 
Heber's  wagons  were  over  except  one,  but  Jackson  Red- 
ding brought  me  Porter  Rockwell's  horse  to  ride  over, 
and  I  mounted  and  proceeded.  I  found  the  current  strong 
indeed,  and  about  as  much  as  a  horse  could  do  to  ford  it 
without  a  load.  I  soon  got  over  safe  and  wet  only  my 
feet.  At  3  :00  p.  m.  the  last  wagon  was  over  on  the  solid 
sand  bar,  and  about  four  o'clock  all  the  wagons  and  teams 
were  safely  landed  on  the  bank  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Loop  Fork  without  any  loss  or  accident,  which  made  the 
brethren  feel  thankful  indeed.  A  little  before  four,  the 
wagons  started  on  to  find  a  better  place  to  camp  and  feed 
for  our  teams,  where  we  can  stay  comfortable  until  Mon- 
day and  give  the  teams  a  chance  to  rest,  for  they  as  well 
as  the  men  are  very  tired  by  wading  against  the  strong 
current  on  the  quick  sand.  The  bottom  land  on  this  side 


102  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

is  more  sandy  than  on  the  other  side,  but  the  grass  ap- 
pears higher  but  not  so  thick  on  the  ground.  The  bluffs 
on  the  other  side  look  beautiful  from  here,  and  the  In- 
dian graves  show  very  plain.  We  went  on  about  three 
miles  and  camped  beside  a  small  lake  near  the  river.  I 
traveled  this  on  foot.  Soon  as  we  arrived  Porter  Rock- 
well discovered  that  there  were  many  sun  fish  in  the  lake. 
I  took  a  couple  of  hooks  and  lines,  handed  some  to  him, 
and  went  to  fishing  myself  with  the  others  and  we  had 
some  fine  sport.  I  caught  a  nice  mess  which  Brother 
Egan  cooked  for  supper,  and  although  they  were  small 
they  made  a  good  dish.  Many  of  the  brethren  caught  a 
good  mess  each.  Brother  Higbee  came  down  with  the 
seine  and  made  two  hauls  but  caught  none  on  account  of 
the  grass  in  the  bottom  of  the  lake.  We  have  good  rea- 
sons to  suspect  that  we  are  watched  by  the  Indians  as 
their  footsteps  have  been  seen  on  the  bluffs  south,  ap- 
parently very  fresh,  but  the  guard  are  faithful  and  we 
have  no  fear.  The  cannon  was  prepared  again  so  as  to 
be  ready  in  case  there  should  be  an  attack.  Evening  I 
walked  over  to  Orson  Pratt's  wagon,  and  through  his 
telescope  saw  Jupiter's  four  moons  very  distinctly  never 
having  seen  them  before.  I  went  over  to  my  wagon  and 
looked  through  my  glass  and  could  see  them  with  it,  but 
not  so  distinct  as  with  Orson's.  The  evening  was  very 
fine  and  pleasant.  About  ten  o'clock  retired  to  rest  in 
good  health  and  spirits,  thankful  for  the  mercies  of  the 
day  that  is  past. 

SUNDAY,  25xH.  Arose  soon  after  five,  shaved  and 
changed  some  of  my  clothing.  The  morning  very  pleas- 
ant, wind  west.  Our  course  for  the  last  seven  miles  has 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  103 

been  about  southwest.  We  are  about  14  miles  from  the 
main  branch  of  the  Platte  river  and  it  is  said  that  if  we 
travel  on  this  fork  one  hundred  miles  farther,  we  shall 
then  be  not  over  thirty  miles  from  the  main  branch.  This 
morning  saw  four  antelope  on  the  other  bank  of  the  river 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  northwest.  Afternoon  Elijah 
Newman  was  baptized  by  Tarlton  Lewis  in  the  lake  for 
the  benefit  of  his  health.  Brother  Newman  has  been 
afflicted  with  the  black  scurvy  in  his  legs  and  has  not  been 
able  to  walk  without  sticks,  but  after  being  baptized  and 
hand's  laid  on  him  he  returned  to  his  wagon  without  any 
kind  of  help  seemingly  much  better.  Soon  after  5  :00  p. 
m.  a  meeting  was  called  at  the  wagon  of  President  Young, 
and  remarks  made  by  several,  and  instructions  by  Presi- 
dent Young  chiefly  in  reference  to  the  guard  and  the 
folly  of  conforming  to  gentile  military  customs  on  an 
expedition  of  this  nature.  After  dark  the  twelve  and 
some  others  met  together  opposite  the  President's  wagon 
to  select  men  to  go  a  hunting  buffalo,  etc.,  as  we  proceed 
on  the  journey.  It  was  ascertained  that  there  are  eight 
horses  in  the  company  which  are  not  attached  to  teams. 
Then  eight  men  were  selected  to  ride  on  horseback,  viz., 
Thomas  Woolsey,  Thomas  Brown,  John  Brown,  O.  P. 
Rockwell,  John  S.  Higbee,  Joseph  Mathews.  Then  there 
were  selected  eleven  men  to  hunt  also  on  foot,  viz.,  John 
Pack,  Phineas  H.  Young,  Tarlton  Lewis,  Joseph  Han- 
cock, Edmund  Ellsworth,  Roswell  Stevens,  Ed'son  Whip- 
pie,  Barnabas  L.  Adams,  Benjamin  F.  Stewart,  Jackson 
Redding  and  Eric  Glines.  It  was  also  voted  that  the 
twelve  have  the  privilege  of  hunting  when  they  have  a 
mind  to.  After  some  remarks  and  cautions  in  regard 


104  \YILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

to  chasing  the  wild  buffalo,  the  company  was  dismissed, 
and  I  retired  to  rest  soon  after  nine  o'clock,  the  evening 
being  very  fine  and  pleasant. 

MONDAY,  26xH.  This  morning  about  3  :30  an  alarm 
was  sounded.  I  immediately  got  out  of  the  wagon  and 
learned  that  three  of  the  guard  who  were  stationed  to 
the  northeast  of  the  camp  had  discovered  some  Indians 
crawling  up  towards  the  wagons.  They  first  received 
alarm  from  the  motions  of  one  of  our  horses,  and  noticing 
this  they  went  towards  the  spot  and  listening,  heard 
something  rustle  in  the  grass;  they  first  suspected  they 
were  wolves  and  fired  at  them.  Only  one  gun  went  off 
and  six  Indians  sprang  up  and  ran  from  within  a  few 
rods  of  where  they  stood,  another  gun  was  then  fired  at 
them  and  the  camp  alarmed.  A  strong  guard  \vas  placed 
all  around,  and  a  charge  of  cannister  put  in  the  cannon. 
The  day  was  just  breaking  when  this  took  place  and 
the  moon  had  just  gone  down.  The  air  being  extremely 
cold  and  fires  put  out,  I  retired  into  the  wagon  till  morn- 
ing and  arose  again  at  half  past  five.  After  daylight, 
the  footsteps  of  the  Indians  could  be  plainly  seen  where 
they  had  come  down  under  the  bank  and  sometimes 
stepped  into  the  water.  No  doubt  their  object  was  to 
steal  horses,  and  they  had  a  fair  privilege  if  the  guard 
had  been  found  asleep,  for  the  camp  was  only  formed  hi 
a  half  circle  and  some  horses  were  tied  outside.  How- 
ever, the  prompt  reception  they  met  with  will  have  a 
tendency  to  show  them  that  we  keep  a  good  watch  and 
may  deter  them  from  making  another  attempt.  Orders 
were  given  for  the  tens  to  assemble  for  prayers  this  morn- 
ing, instead  of  two  in  each  wagon,  which  was  done.  Presi- 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.          105 

dent  Ynung  told  me  this  morning  that  as  soon  as  my 
health  will  permit,  he  wants  me  to  assist  Brother  Bullock 
in  keeping  minutes,  etc.,  as  Brother  Bullock  is  hard  run, 
having  to  take  care  of  a  team  and  attend  to  other  chores. 
The  camp  started  out  about  8.00  A.  M.  I  started 
at  7.30  on  foot  and  traveled  four  miles,  then  waited  for 
the  wagons.  There  is  no  road  here,  consequently,  Presi- 
dent Young,  Kimball,  G.  A.  Smith,  A.  Lyman  and  others 
went  ahead  on  horseback  to  point  out  the  road.  The  horse 
teams  traveled  first  to  break  the  strong  grass  so  that  it  will 
not  hurt  the  oxen's  feet.  The  hunters  started  out  in  dif- 
ferent directions  keeping  only  a  few  miles  from  the  wa- 
gons. We  traveled  about  seven  miles  and  then  stopped  at 
11  :30  o'clock  beside  a  few  little  holes  of  water  to  rest  and 
feed  teams,  etc.  From  this  place  which  is  somewhat  ele- 
vated, can  be  seen  the  remains  of  an  old  village  or  Indian 
fort,  over  the  river  about  northwest  from  here.  The 
country  looks  beautiful,  somewhat  rolling  and  bounded  by 
uneven  bluffs.  The  land  looks  poor  and  sandy.  The  sun 
is  very  hot  and  not  much  wind.  I  find  it  has  a  great  ten- 
dency to  make  sore  lips,  parched  up  and  feverish.  At  1 :45 
all  the  wagons  were  on  the  way  again.  We  traveled 
about  seven  miles.  We  crossed  two  slough  or  soft  places 
though  not  very  bad.  They  are  the  first  since  we  left 
Winter  Quarters.  The  roads  are  more  uneven  than  on 
the  other  side  the  river.  We  had  to  make  a  new  road  all 
day.  At  6:15  the  encampment  was  formed  on  the  east 
banks  of  a  small  creek  with  a  very  gravelly  bottom.  The 
wagons  are  formed  in  a  deep  hollow  and  so  low  that  they 
cannot  be  seen  at  a  quarter  of  a  mile  distance.  There  is 
no  fresh  grass  here,  neither  has  the  old  grass  been  burnt 


106  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

off.  We  have  crossed  a  number  ,of  trails  today  which 
some  say  are  buffalo  trails.  They  all  run  towards  the 
river,  and  in  some  places  there  are  8  or  9,  others,  not 
more  than  two,  and  so  on,  together  running-  about  a  half  a 
yard  apart.  The  hunters  have  seen  no  buffalo.  Woolsey 
killed  a  goose.  There  is  no  timber  here,  only  a  few  small 
willows.  We  are  about  a  half  a  mile  from  the  river,  and 
there  doesn't  seem  to  be  much  timber  on  the  river.  Our 
course  today  has  been  about  southwest.  About  a  mile 
back  from  this  place  situated  on  a  high  bench  ,of  land  on 
the  banks  of  the  river  is  the  remains  of  an  Indian  village, 
the  houses  or  lodges  being  all  down  and  no  appearance  of 
timber  left.  The  entrances  to  these  lodges  all  face  to  the 
southeast,  the  same  as  those  back  at  the  other  village. 
There  has  evidently  been  a  garden  around  the  village  as 
the  land  has  been  broken  and  bears  marks  of  cultivation. 
This  morning  Brother  Benson  discovered  that  one  of  the 
iron  axjes  of  his  wagon  was  broken,  and  he  moved  the 
load  so  that  there  was  no  weight  on  the  part  which  was 
broken,  and  traveled  with  it  all  day.  This  evening  the 
wagon  was  unloaded,  the  axle  taken  off,  Brother  Tanner's 
forge  set  up,  and  the  axle  welded  and  fixed  ready  to  put 
to  the  wagon  again.  This  was  done  in  the  short  space  of 
one  hour  after  the  encampment  was  formed.  The  welding 
was  performed  by  Brother  Burr  Fost.  About  eight 
o'clock  Joseph  Mathews  came  into  camp  from  seeking  his 
horses  and  stated  that  an  Indian  had  rode  a  horse  off 
a  little  before  and  he  supposed  it  was  Brother  Little's 
horse,  which  was  missing.  Dr.  Richards'  mare  was  also 
missing.  Brother  Mathews  stated  that  he  went  out  to 
seek  for  his  black  man  who  was  out  watching  his  teams, 


\V11.LL\M   CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  107 

and  as  he  arrived  he  saw  Brother  Little's  horse  as  he 
supposed  going  towards  the  river.  He  ran  towards  it  to 
turn  it  back  to  camp,  but  as  soon  as  he  commenced  run- 
ning the  horse  sprang  to  a  gallop,  which  made  him  sup- 
pose there  was  an  Indian  on  him  although  he  could  not  see 
the  Indian.  As  soon  as  he  gave  the  alarm  five  or  six  of 
the  brethren  mounted  their  horses,  and  pursued  on  the 
course  pointed  out  to  the  river,  but  could  neither  see  nor 
hear  a  horse  or  Indian.  When  they  returned,  President 
Young  and  Kimball  and  a  number  of  others  went  out  on 
horseback  and  searched  till  near  eleven  o'clock,  but  like- 
wise proved  unsuccessful.  The  brethren  have  been  re- 
peatedly warned  not  to  let  their  horses  go  far  from  their 
wagons,  but  every  time  we  stop  they  can  be  seen  around 
for  more  than  two  miles.  These  are  two  good  horses  and 
the  owners  feel  bad  enough,  but  it  will  be  a  warning  to 
others  to  be  more  careful. 

TUESDAY,  27xH.  Arose  .soon  after  five.  The  morn- 
ing fine  an-d  pleasant.  During  the  night  the  guard  fired 
twice  but  they  supposed  they  were  wolves  they  fired  at. 
I  went  back  to  the  old  Indian  village  before  breakfast, 
and  also  with  O.  P.  Rockwell,  to  see  if  any  tracks  of  the 
lost  hordes  could  be  found.  He  followed  one  track  some 
\\a.y  into  a  bunch  of  willows,  but  having  no  arms  we  re- 
turned. At  7 :45  the  wagons  commenced  moving  and  trav- 
eled till  2:15  being  about  twelve  miles  nearly  a  south 
course,  the  design  being  to  go  to  the  main  branch  of  the 
Platte.  President  Young,  Kimball  and  others  went  for- 
ward again  to  point  out  the  road.  O.  P.  Rockwell  and 
some  others  started  back  to  hunt  the  horses  about  the 
time  we  started.  The  land  today  has  been  very  rolling 


1(18  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

and  uneven.  It  is  also  very  sandy  and  dry.  After  travel- 
ing- about  four  miles  through  dead  grass  we  found  a  large 
space  where  the  grass  had  been  burned  off.  Here  it  is 
quite  green,  and  there  are  quantities  of  buffalo  dung, 
which  proves  that  we  are  not  far  distant  from  some  of 
them.  The  hunters  have  been  out  again  but  have  not  dis- 
covered any.  There  are  a  great  many  lizards  on  these  sand 
ridges,  but  they  are  of  a  small  size.  President  Young  and 
Kimball  discovered  a  dog  town  a  piece  back,  and  many 
little  prairie  dogs.  In  one  hole  was  a  very  large  rattle- 
snake, and  around  the  holes  many  small  owls  which  seem 
to  correspond  with  what  travelers  have  said  previously— 
that  the  prairie  dog,  rattlesnakes,  and  owls  all  live  in  the 
same  hole  together.  The  sun  is  very  hot  but  there  is  a  nice 
west  wind  although  it  is  dry  and  parches  our  lips.  When 
we  stopped  at  noon  the  brethren  dug  several  holes  and 
obtained  a  little  water,  as  there  is  none  here  above  the 
surface.  They  could  not  obtain  any  for  the  cattle  and 
horses.  At  3.15  the  teams  commenced  to  move  again. 
Just  as  they  started,  John  Brown.  Rosewel  Stevens  and 
Brother  Woodruff  all  shot  at  an  antelope.  They  all  hit 
him  and  killed  him.  Having  .skinned  it,  they  .put  it  into 
one  ,of  the  wagons.  The  afternoon  was  very  hot  and  the 
roads  very  dusty.  After  traveling  about  two  miles  some 
of  the  ox  teams  gave  out  and  had  to  stop  and  feed.  The 
rest  went  on  till  they  found  a  small  branch  of  water  and 
the  grass  being  very  good  we  stopped  for  the  night  at  half 
past  five,  having  traveled  about  four  miles,  course  about 
south.  President  Young  and  several  others  went  back 
with  mules  and  horses  to  assist  the  teams  up  which  are 
behind.  Luke  Johnson  shot  a  very  large  rattlesnake  and 


\YTLLT.\M  CI.AVTOX'S  JOURXAT..  109 

brought  it  to  camp  for  the  oil.  Roswel  Stevens  killed 
a  hare,  the  nearest  like  the  English  hare  of  any  I  have 
seen  in  this  country.  Soon  after  \ve  arrived  here  it  began 
to  lightning  and  thunder  and  we  had  a  light  sliower  with 
a  very  strong  wind.  There  is  an  appearance  of  more  rain 
which  is  very  much  needed  indeed.  At  6.30  O.  P.  Rock- 
well, Joseph  Mathexvs.  John  Eldridge  and  Thomas  Brown 
returned  from  hunting  the  two  lost  horses.  They  re- 
ported that  they  went  back  to  within  about  two  miles  of 
where  we  encamped  on  Sunday  ami  looking  off  towards 
the  river  they  saw  something  move  in  the  grass  at  the  foot 
of  a  high  mole.  They  proceeded  towards  it  thinking  it 
was  a  wolf,  when  within  about  twelve  or  fourteen  rods 
Porter  stopped  to  shoot  at  the  supposed  wolf.  The  mo- 
ment he  elevated  his  rifle,  fifteen  Indians  sprang  to  their 
feet,  all  naked  except  the  breech  cloth,  an<l  armed  with 
rifles  and  bows  and  arrows.  Each  man  having  a  rifle 
slung  on  his  back,  and  his  bow  strung  tight  in  his  hand 
and  about  twenty  arrows.  The  Indians  advanced  towards 
them  but  the  brethren  motioned  and  told  them  to  stop  and 
held  their  rifles  and  pistols  ready  to  meet  them.  \Yhen 
the  Indians  saw  this  they  began  to  holler  "bacco !  bacco !" 
The  brethren  told  them  they  had  not  tobacco.  One  of  the 
Indians  came  close  beside  J.  Mathcw's  horse  to*  shake 
hands  with  Mathews  but  kept  his  eye  on  the  horse's  bridle. 
When  nearly  within  reach  of  the  bridle.  Brown  cocke  1 
his  pistol  and  pointed  at  the  Indian  shouting  if  he  did  not 
leave  he  would  kill  him.  At  which,  the  Indian  seeing  the 
pistol  ready  to  fire,  retreated.  The  Indians  made  signs  to 
get  the  brethren  lower  down  the  river,  but  the  brethren 
turned  their  horses  to  come  to  camp,  thinking  it  unsafe  to 


110  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

go  near  to  the  timber  where  they  expected  more  Indians 
lay  in  ambush.  When  the  brethren  turned  to  come  back 
the  Indians  fired  six  .shots  at  them  with  tlieir  rifles  and 
the  brethren  immediately  faced  about  at  which  the  Indians 
fled  towards  the  timber  below.  The  brethren  did  not 
shoot  at  the  Indians,  even  when  the  Indians  shot  at  them. 
They  saw  the  tracks  of  the  horses  which  are  missing  and 
returned  satisfied  that  Pawnees  have  g.ot  them,  and  no 
•doubt  intended  to  get  the  horses  on  which  the  brethren 
rode,  but  they  met  with  too  stern  a  reception  to  risk  an 
attempt.  Some  of  these  same  Indians  were  amongst  those 
who  came  into  camp  when  we  stopped  for  dinner  near 
their  village,  and  proves  that  they  eyed  the  horses  pretty 
close,  and  also  proves  that  they  have  followed  us  close 
ever  since.  The  brethren  ran  great  risks  indeed,  but  got 
back  safe  to  camp  without  harm. 

About  the  same  time  the  brethren  returned,  a  gun  ac- 
cidently  went  off  and  broke  the  nigh  fore  leg  of  Brother 
Mathew's  horse.  Those  who  saw  the  accident  state  that 
when  the  rain  came  on,  some  of  the  men  put  their  guns  in 
John  Brown's  wagon,  loaded  and  with  the  caps  on. 
Brother  Brown  threw  his  coat  on  the  guns,  and  soon  after 
went  to  get  his  coat  and  plucking  it  up,  some  part  of  the 
coat  "caught  the  cock  of  the  gun  and  raised  it  so  that 
when  the  coat  slipped  off,  the  gun  went  off,  and  the  ball 
struck  the  horse's  leg  on  the  back  side  about  half  way 
between  the  knee  and  upper  joint.  The  bone  was  broke 
entirely  off.  There  were  several  men  and  horses  close 
by  the  wagon  at  the  time.  The  wagon  was  .set  on  fire, 
but  soon  put  out  with  little  damage.  This  makes  four 
of  the  best  horses  lost  within  the  last  four  days,  but  the 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  Ill 

last  circumstance  is  by  far  the  most  painful,  and  breaks 
up  Brother  Markham's  team.  Brother  Brown  made  Heber 
a  present  of  a  little  antelope  meat.  About  dark  the  wind 
moved  to  the  north  and  blew  strong-  a  little  while  and  we 
had  a  little  more  rain. 

WEDNESDAY,  28iH.  Morning  fine  ami  pleasant,  no 
Indians.  The  wind  blew  strong  from  the  northeast 
which  makes  it  much  cooler.  There  are  many  wolves 
and  antelope  around  here,  but  no  buffalo  have  been  seen 
as  yet.  ^Orders  were  given  this  morning  for  no  man  to 
leave  the  wagons  except  the  hunters.  The  brethren  had 
to  make  a  road  down  to  the  small  creek  near  which  we 
campe-d.  This  occupied  till  about  nine  o'clock,  when  the 
wagons  commenced  crossing;  the  last  wagon  crossed  at 
ten  o'clock  and  then  the  camp  proceeded  on.  President 
Young,  Kimball,  and  several  others  going  before  to  point* 
out  the  road  while  the  wagons  were  crossing  the  creek. 
Brother  Luke  Johnson  shot  the  horse  dead  which 'had  his 
leg  broke  last  night.  The  'horse  belonged  to  Brother 
Barney,  but  was  in  Markham's  team  and  was  a  good  one, 
but  they  concluded  it  was  better  to  shoot  her  than  leave 
her  alone  to  the  mercy  of  the  Indians.  Our  course  for 
the  first  seven  miles  was  a  little  east  of  south  over  a  very 
level  prairie  and  green  writh  grass.  The  largest  wild  on- 
ions grow  here  I  have  ever  seen.  After  traveling-  about 
seven  miles  we  turned  southwest,  being  within  a  mile  of 
the  main  Platte  and  opposite  to  Grand  Island.  We  trav- 
eled till  2  :30  and  then  stopped  to  feed,  having  come  about 
eleven  miles  today.  The  roads  are  extremely  dusty  ano 
the  strong  wind  blows  it  into  the  wagons  and  everything 
is  covered.  We  are  now  near  to  timber  and  a  good  chance 


112  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

for  grass  for  the  cattle.  At  4.00  P.  M.  we  moved  again 
and  traveled  till  six,  having  traveled  about  four  miles, 
and  during  the  day,  about  fifteen  miles.  We  have  campeu 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  timber  and  there  is 
plenty  of  grass  to  fill  the  stock  tonight.  The  water  is  also 
clear  and  cool  and  good  tasting.  The  evening  is  cloudy 
and  very  cool,  which  affects  my  head  some.  Slippered  on 
some  antelope  and  went  to  bed  early. 

THURSDAY,  29iH.  The  wagons  started  at  five  o'clock 
this  morning  before  breakfast,  to  find  more  grass  as  this 
is  all  eaten  off.  We  traveled  till  6:30  being  about  three 
miles,  and  then  turned  out  the  teams  to  feed.  The  morn- 
ing very  cool.  There  seems  to  be  very  little  rain  in  this 
country  and  no  dew.  Breakfasted  on  goose  and  mouldy 
bread.  At  twenty  minutes  after  eight,  the  teams  .started 
again  and  after  traveling  about  two  miles  came  to  a  very 
pretty  stream  of  good  water,  (Wood  River)  about  ten 
feet  wide  on  an  average,  but  at  the  fording  place  about 
a  rod  wide.  We  were  detained  some  here,  but  all  got 
over  safely.  We  then  traveled  on  a  table  or  prairie  gently 
ascending  for  four  or  five  miles  but  very  even  and  good 
traveling.  At  1.00  P.  M.  we  stopped  beside  a  small  lake 
to  rest  and  feed  teams,  having  traveled  about  ten  miles 
today.  The  wind  south  and  .strong.  One  of  Orson 
Pratt's  horses  is  very  sick,  supposed  to  be  the  bots.  He 
has  lain  down  several  times  in  the  harness  within  the  last 
three  hours.  I  am  not  astonished,  as  the  wagons  and 
everything  else  is  shrinking  up,  for  the  wind  is  perfectly 
dry  and  parching;  there  is  no  moisture  m  it.  Even  my 
writing  desk  is  splitting  with  the  drought.  At  2  :30  P.  M. 
we  started  again  and  traveled  till  about  6:30  over  toler- 


\YH.LTAM  CLAYTOX-S  JOURNAL.  113 

able  level  prairie,  distance  about  eight  miles,  and  nearly 
a  southwest  course.  The  wind  was  .strong  from  south- 
west till  sundown  and  then  turned  to  northeast.  The 
clouds  of  -dust  were  almost  sufficient  to  suffocate  every- 
one. I  rode  Heber's  horse  this  afternoon  and  went  before 
the  wagons.  Saw  many  antelope,  and  the  brethren  had  a 
good  chance  to  kill  one,  but  they  missed  it,  although  three 
of  them  shot  at  it.  We  camped  at  night  close  to  Grand 
Island  where  there  is  an  abundance  of  rushes  for  cattle. 
There  is  also  a  white  substance  that  seems  to  ooze  out  of 
the  ground  around  here,  and  tastes  like  salt,  but  not  so 
strong  as  common  salt.  Brother  Orson  Pratt's  horse  is 
better  and  the  day  has  passed  without  accident. 

FRIDAY,  30iH.  Arose  at  half  past  five.  Morning 
cool  and  pleasant.  The  teams  have  filled  themselves  with 
rushes.  Started  at  7 :40  and  soon  after  the  camp  started, 
I  started  ahead  on  foot  and  have  traveled  about  five 
miles.  The  prairie  level  and  green  with  grass.  We 
travel  on  the  first  bench  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile 
north  of  the  timber  on  Grand  Island.  There  are  many 
wild  geese  on  the  prairie,  also  buffalo  dung,  but  none 
very  recent.  There  are  immense  patches  of  blue  grass 
which  from  appearances,  the  buffalo  are  fond  of.  There 
are  also  numerous  patches  of  buffalo  grass  which  is  very 
short,  thick  on  the  ground,  and  curly  like  the  hair  on  a 
buffalo's  hide,  and  much  resembling  it,  except  in  color. 
About  a  mile  from  where  we  camped  last  night,  we  passed 
a  place  where  the  Indians  have  camped  no  doubt  dur- 
ing their  hunt.  They  must  have  been  very  numerous  for 
their  camp  has  covered  a  number  of  acres  of  ground. 
President  Young.  Kimball  and  Lvman  are  gone  ahead 


114  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

« 

on  horseback  to  look  out  the  road.  We  have  thus  far  fol- 
lowed the  Indian  trail,  but  it  is  now  so  grown  over  and 
so  old  it  is  scarce  discernible.  The  wind  blows  strong 
from  the  north  and  the  dust  is  very  bad.  The  atmos- 
phere is  dull  and  cloudy.  Our  course  today  has  been 
about  west.  At  a  quarter  to  twelve  we  stopped  to  feed 
beside  a  small  creek  of  clear,  good,  water,  having  trav- 
eled about  eight  miles.  The  grass  along  this  creek  is 
long  and  plentiful.  We  are  about  a  half  a  mile  from 
Grand  Island. 

Having  the  privilege  of  copying  from  Brother  Bul- 
lock's journal,  I  will  now  record  the  names  of  the  stand- 
ing guard  as  organized  April  16th,  also  the  men  selected 
by  Brother  Tanner  to  form  the  gun  division  as  ordered 
Saturday,  April  17th. 

Tarlton  Lewis,  Stephen  H.  Goddard,  Seeley  Owens, 
Thomas  Woolsey,  John  G.  Luce,  Horace  Thorton, 
Charles  D.  Barnam,  Sylvester  H.  Earl,  George  Scholes, 
Rufus  Allen,  William  Empey,  John  Holman,  George  R. 
Grant,  William  P.  Vance,  James  Craig,  Datus  Ensign, 
William  Dykes,  John  Dixon,  Samuel  H.  Marble,  Art- 
emus  Johnson,  Norton  Jacobs,  Addison  Everett,  William 
Wordsworth,  John  W.  Norton,  Francis  M.  Pomroy,  Ly- 
man  Curtis,  Horace  M.  Frink,  Erastus  Snow,  Hans  C. 
Hanson,  William  C.  A.  Smoot,  Barnabas  L.  Adams,  Rod- 
ney Badger,  Charles  Burk,  Alexander  P.  Chesley,  Ap- 
pleton  M.  Harmon,  David  Powell,  Joseph  Mathews,  John 
Wheeler,  Gillrid  Summe,  Mathew  Ivory,  Edson  Whipple, 
Conrad  Klineman,  Joseph  Rooker,  Nathaniel  Fairbanks, 
Ozro  Eastman,  Andrew  S.  Gibbons,  William  A.  King, 
Thomas  Tanner,  Hosea  Gushing,  and  John  H.  Tippets. 


WILLIAM   CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  115 

The  names  of  the  gun  detachment  are  as  follows: 
Thomas   Tanner,     Captain ;   Stephen     H.   Goddard, 
Seeley  Owens,  Thomas  Woolsey,  John  G.  Luce,  Horace 
Thornton,  Charles  D.  Barnam,  Sylvester  H.  Earl,  George 
Scholes  and  Rufus  Allen. 

At  twenty  minutes  after  ten  o'clock  started  again, 
the  wind  blowing  from  the  north  tremendously  strong, 
and  clouds  of  dust  arose  from  under  the  wagon  wheels. 
It  has  turned  very  cold  and  gloomy.  We  traveled  again 
over  a  level  prairie  some  distance  from  the  river  and 
turned  off  to  camp  under  the  bench  soon  after  5  :00  p. 
m.  having  traveled  about  eight  miles,  our  course  a  little 
southwest.  The  wagons  were  formed  in  an  imperfect 
circle  in  such  a  manner  as  to  have  all  the  wagon  mouths 
from  the  wind,  which  took  near  an  hour  to  form  the  en- 
campment. We  are  about  a  mile  from  water  and  a  mile 
and  a  half  from  timber,  with  very  little  grass  for  our 
teams.  It  is  now  so  cold  that  every  man  wants  his  over- 
coat on  and  a  buffalo  robe  over  it.  We  have  had  no  acci- 
dent and  the  brethren  fell  well,  some  are  wrestling  to 
keep  themselves  warm.  Some  have  had  the  good  luck 
to  bring  a  little  wood  with  them  but  it  seems  as  if  many 
will  have  a  cold  supper.  And  some  perhaps  little  or 
nothing  as  they  have  no  bread  cooked.  Eight  p.  m.,  the 
camp  have  found  a  good  substitute  for  wood  in  the  dried 
buffalo  dung  which  lies  on  the  ground  here  in  great 
plenty,  and  makes  a  good  fire  when  properly  managed. 
Brother  Kimball  invented  a  new  way  of  building  a  fire 
to  cook  on  and  which  is  well  adapted  to  the  use  of  this 
kind  of  fuel.  He  dug  a  hole  in  the  ground  about  8 
inches  deep,  15  inches  long  and  8  inches  wide.  Then 


116  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

at  each  end  of  this  hole  he  dug  another  about  the  same 
dimensions  as  the  first  leaving  about  3  inches  of  earth 
standing  between  the  middle  and  two  end  holes.  At  the 
end  of  these  partitions  he  made  a  hole  through  about  3 
inches  in  diameter  to  serve  as  a  draught.  In  the  bottom 
of  the  middle  hole  the  fire  and  fuel  was  placed,  and 
across  the  top  two  wagon  hammers  to  set  the  pots  and 
pans  on,  so  that  the  fire  could  have  free  circulation  un- 
derneath. By  this  method  much  cooking  was  done  with 
very  little  fuel.  To  save  the  trouble  of  carrying  water 
so  far  a  well  was  dug  in  a  short  time  about  4  feet  deep 
and  good  water  obtained.  After  supper  I  went  and 
gathered  some  dried  buffalo  dung,  (politely  called  buffalo 
chips)  to  cook  with  in  the  morning.  Brother  Hanson 
played  some  on  his  violin  and  some  of  the  brethren  danced 
to  warm  themselves.  I  went  to  bed  early  to  get  warm 
but  having  only  one  quilt  for  covering,  I  suffered  much 
with  cold.  Brother  Kimball  rode  ahead  again  on  horse 
back  and  suffered  some  from  cold. 

SATURDAY,  IST  OF  MAY.  The  morning  very  cold  in- 
deed. Inasmuch  as  there  is  little  grass  for  the  cattle, 
the  camp  started  out  at  5  :40  and  traveled  till  a  quarter 
after  eight,  six  miles  before  breakfast.  Soon  after  we 
started  this  morning  three  buffalo  were  seen  grazing  on 
the  bluff  about  six  miles  distance.  I  could  see  them  very 
plain  with  my  glass.  O.  P.  Rockwell,  Thomas  Brown 
and  Luke  Johnson  started  on  horseback  to  try  to  kill 
some.  Soon  after  they  went,  another  herd  of  buffalo 
were  seen  to  the  northwest  at  the  foot  of  the  bluffs  about 
eight  miles  off.  I  counted  with  my  glass,  72,  and  Orson 
Pratt  counted  74.  Three  of  the  brethren  went  on  their 


WILLIAM:  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  117 

horses  after  the  latter  herd.  I  watched  the  movement 
with  the  glass  and  saw  that  sometime  before  the  brethren 
got  to  them,  the  buffalo  fled  and  were  soon  after  out  of 
sight.  We  stopped  for  breakfast  close  to  Grand  Island 
and  at  10:15  proceeded  again.  After  traveling  four  miles 
we  arrived  at  a  small  lake  on  our  right  at  twelve  o'clock 
which  evidently  connects  with  the  river  in  high  water.  A 
little  previous  to  this  time  the  hunters  returned  and  re- 
ported that  Luke  Johnson  shot  at  one  and  dropped  him 
on  his  knees,  but  he  got  up  again  and  ran  after  the  herd. 
They  did  not  get  any,  but  saw  more  farther  west  and 
went  to  give  chase  to  the  latter  herd.  When  they  got 
near  them,  they  turned  down  under  the  bluffs  and  joined 
the  herd  chased  by  the  last  hunting  party.  Luke  lost  his 
cap  and  could  not  find  it  again.  Brother  Higbee  said  he 
could  have  shot  one,  but  Woolsey  told  him  to  hold  on  and 
pick  out  a  good  one.  They  being  pretty  near,  selected  a 
cow  and  designed  both  to  shoot  at  her,  but  while  they 
were  making  their  plans  the  herd  started  and  they  missed 
their  chance.  About  the  time  the  hunters  returned,  an- 
other still  larger  herd  was  discovered  still  farther  west, 
also  at  the  foot  of  the  bluffs.  The  President  stopped 
near  the  above  mentioned  lake  and  selected  eleven  men 
to  go  and  give  chase  to  the  last  seen  herd  and  he  gave 
them  their  instructions.  Although  they  were  at  least 
eight  miles  from  us,  I  distinctly  counted  101  with  my 
glass  and  amongst  them  many  calves.  This  being  the 
first  day  buffalo  has  been  seen  on  our  journey  and  in  fact 
the  first  ever  seen  by  any  except  about  five  or  six  of  the 
brethren,  it  excited  considerable  interest  and  pleasure  in 
the  breasts  of  the  brethren,  and  as  may  be  guessed,  the 


118  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    TQURNAL. 

teams  moved  slowly  and  frequently  stopped  to  watch  their 
movement.  When  the  hunters  were  within  a  mile  or  two 
from  the  herd,  two  of  the  dogs  gave  chase  to  an  antelope, 
which  made  directly  towards  the  buffalo.  One  of  the 
dogs  chased  it  till  it  went  into  the  midst  of  the  herd  and 
when  the  buffalo  saw  the  dog,  they  commenced  to  canter 
into  a  closer  huddle.  The  dog,  however,  evidently  fright- 
ened with  their  savage  appearance,  stopped  and  retraced 
his  steps.  About  this  time  Elder  Kimball  seemed  to  get 
inspired  with  the  idea  of  chasing  the  buffalo  and  he  im- 
mediately called  for  Egan's  fifteen  shooter  and  started 
with  it  on  full  gallop.  After  the  d'og  returned  the  buffalo 
did  not  move  much  from  the  place  and  the  hunters  moved 
gently  along  till  they  got  pretty  near  them,"  at  which  time 
Heber  joined,  just  as  the  herd  discovered  them  and  com- 
menced galloping  off.  The  brethren's  feelings  who  were 
left  with  the  wagons  were  now  strung  up  to  the  highest 
pitch,  a  feeling  of  exciting  interest  appeared  to  prevail 
throughout  the  camp,  they  having  heard  and  read  so 
much  of  the  mad  ferocity  of  the  buffalo  when  hotly  pur- 
sued, and  knowing  that  all  the  hunters  were  inexperienced 
in  regard  to  hunting  the  wild  buffalo.  While  they  felt 
for  the  safey  of  the  hunters,  they  still  desired  to  see  as 
much  of  the  chase  as  the  distance  would  allow,  and  were 
wishful  that  the  chase  might  be  successful  as  a  number 
have  no  meat  and  a  piece  of  fresh  meat  would  taste  good 
to  all  men  and  save  our  bread  stuff,  and  the  desire  to 
taste  the  much  famed  buffalo  meat  created  a  longing 
desire  to  see  some  of  the  herd  fall.  Soon  as  the  herd 
commenced  galloping  off,  the  hunters  followed  in  pursuit 
at  full  gallop  and  soon  closed  in  with  them.  At  this  ti'Tie 


WILLIAM'  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  119 

I  got  my  glass  and  rested  it  on  Brother  Aaron  Farr's 
shoulder,  determined  to  see  as  much  of  the  chase  as  pos- 
sible. I  soon  discovered  O.  P.  Rockwell  ride  into  the  midst 
of  the  herd  which  then  appeared  to  number  over  200, 
others  having  come  in  sight  when  the  herd  commenced  to 
run.  Porter  was  soon  enveloped  in  the  cloud  of  duvt 
caused  by  the  heavy  tramp  of  the  buffalo  on  the  dry 
sandy  ground,  but  in  a  very  short  time  the  herd  began  to 
separate  and  scatter  in  every  direction,  a  small  party 
coming  down  the  bluff  again  and  some  running  west  un- 
der the  bluffs,  others  going  over.  The  hunters  closed  in 
on  the  first  party  and  commenced  their  fire,  especially 
at  one  cow  which  they  finally  succeeded  in  separating  from 
all  the  rest,  and  determined  to  keep  to  her  until  they 
killed  her,  except  Porter,  who  as  soon  as  he  had  wounded 
her,  left  her  with  the  hunters  and  pursued  some  of  the 
rest.  The  cow  was  now  in  close  quarters  and  after  she 
had  been  shot  through  two  or  three  times,  Elder  Kim- 
ball  rode  close  to  her  with  his  fifteen  shooter  and  fired 
over  his  horse's  head,  she  dropped  helpless  and  was  soon 
dispatched.  At  the  report  of  the  gun  which  was  very 
heavy  loaded,  Elder  Kimball's  horse  sprang  and  flew 
down  the  bluff  like  lightning  and  he  having  let  go  the 
lines  to  shoot,  her  sudden  motion  overbalanced  him  and 
his  situation  was  precarious  to  the  extreme.  The  other 
hunters  saw  his  situation  and  trembled  for  his  safety  but 
could  render  him  no  assistance.  However,  being  a  good 
horseman,  he  maintained  his  position  in  the  saddle  and 
soon  succeeded  in  gaining  the  lines  and  by  a  vigorous  ef- 
fort succeeded  after  some  time  in  reining  in  his  horse 
and  returned  to  the  rest  unharmed  and  without  accident. 


120  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    TQURNAL. 

All  this  movement  passed  about  as  quick  as  thought,  arrl 
as  soon  as  they  saw  the  cow  dead  and  all  right  they  again 
followed  in  pursuit  of  the  remaining  buffalo.  About  this 
time  three  of  the  herd  separated  from  the  rest  and  came 
in  a  direction  towards  the  camp  on  a  gollop.  President 
Young  seeing  this,  ordered  a  halt,  and  the  wagons  to  get 
close  together  lest  the  buffalo  should,  in  their  fury  and 
excitement,  venture  to  go  between  the  wagons  and  do 
much  mischief.  However,  they  were  discovered  by  some 
of  the  hunters  nearer  the  camp  and  some  foot  men  who 
gave  chase  to  them  changed  their  course  when  within 
about  a  mile  from  the  camp.  At  this  time  I  had  a  very 
good  view  of  their  shape,  color  and  appearance  when  run- 
ning which  I  shall  endeavor  to  describe  hereafter.  Elder 
Kimball  arrived  in  time  to  aid  in  the  chase  of  these  three 
which  lasted  some  time.  The  hunters  made  choice  of  a 
large  and  very  furious  bull,  and  worked  with  him  some 
time,  shooting  him  through  several  times  but  all  this  did 
not  seem  to  impede  his  progress.  O.  P.  Rockwell  said  he 
had  heard  it  said  that  a  buffalo  could  not  be  hurt  with 
a  ball  shot  at  his  head.  Having  a  fair  chance  with  this 
one,  he  determined  to  satisfy  himself,  and  (previous  to 
his  being  wounded)  gaining  a  little  in  advance  came  right 
in  front  within  about  a  rod  of  him  and  discharged  his 
rifle  pistol  which  struck  the  center  of  his  head,  but  with 
no  other  effect  than  to  make  it  smoke  a  little,  some  dust 
fly  and  the  raving  animal  shake  savagely.  The  brethren, 
John  S.  Higbee  and  John  Pack,  soon  after  succeeded  in 
dropping  him  and  laid  him  dead  at  their  feet, — John  Pack 
being  the  one  that  dropped  him.  During  all  this,  other 
scenes  were  passing  of  equal  interest.  One  of  the  cal- 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  121 

ves  was  discovered  within  a  few  rods  of  the  wagons,  a 
shot  fired  at  it  and  it  was  soon  caught  by  the  dogs,  killed 
and  put  into  a  feed  box.  Porter  chased  another  calf  to 
within  a  mile  of  the  camp  previous  to  his  chasing  the  bull. 
Some  of  the  footmen  surrounded  and  dispatched  it,  and 
soon  after  brought  and  put  it  in  one  of  the  wagons.  Other 
brethren  were  still  away  at  the  bluffs,  but  we  had  no 
certainty  of  their  success  until  Elder  Kimball,  John  Pack, 
and  several  others  came  up  to  the  camp  after  dispatching 
the  bull  and  reported  two  other  cows  killed  and  three 
calves.  This  was  a  little  before  5  :00  p.  m.  When  it  was 
ascertained  for  a  certainty  that  one  was  killed,  the  rev- 
enue cutter  was  unloaded  and  sent  to  fetch  it  to  camp. 
It  was  reported  that  two  other  cows  and  three  calves 
were  killed.  When  Elder  Kimball  and  others  came  up 
to  the  camp,  President  Young  requested  some  of  the 
brethren  to  unload  their  wagons  and  go  and  fetch  the 
others  reported  to  be  killed,  while  the  wagons  would 
strike  towards  the  river  and  camp  for  the  night.  The 
chase  lasted  from  soon  after  1 :00  until  4 :00  p.  m.  Soon 
four  wagons  were  unloaded,  the  brethren  having  their 
loads  on  the  ground  in  care  of  a  guard,  and  were  ready 
to  start  out.  Having  a  great  desire  to  see  a  buffalo  in 
his  natural  state,  my  feet  being  very  sore,  and  the  dis- 
tance to  the  bluffs  being  over  three  miles,  I  got  into 
Brother  Aaron  Farr's  wagon,  he  being  one  who  unloaded 
to  fetch  in  the  meat,  and  we  started  for  the  one  shot 
down  by  Elder  Kimball.  He  and  O.  P.  Rockwell  fol- 
lowing on  horseback.  On  our  route,  we  met  Luke  Johnson 
and  two  other  hunters  returning.  Luke  had'  a  calf  tied 
on  his  horse,  himself  on  foot.  When  we  arrived  at  the 


122  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

cow,  we  found  that  three  of  the  brethren  had  come  on 
foot  and  had  already  got  the  hide  off,  except  the  head. 
She  was  soon  cut  in  two,  put  in  the  wagon  with  the  rest 
of  the  meat,  hide  and  head,  and  we  started  for  the  next 
cow  which  was  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  distant. 
This  cow  would  probably  weigh  on  foot,  about  700 
pounds.  She  was  not  very  fat,  but  the  meat  looked  nice 
and  clean.  When  we  arrived  at  the  next  cow,  we  found 
several  of  the  brethren  at  work  with  her,  they  had  got 
her  hide  off  and  soon  had  her  in  the  wagon.  We  then 
proceeded  to  camp  and  got  in  soon  after  sundown.  The 
meat  was  unloaded  in  the  semi-circle  opposite  the  Presi- 
dent's wagon  and  placed  on  the  hide  which  was  spread  on 
the  ground  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  it  clean.  The 
brethren's  faces  beamed  with  joy  to  see  the  meat  begin  to 
come  into  camp,  and  with  some  astonishment  to  view 
the  size  and  ferocious  appearance  of  the  head,  which  still 
had  the  hide  on.  Soon  after  the  other  wagons  came  in 
and  each  deposited  its  load  in  the  same  place.  Joseph 
Mathews  came  in  about  the  same  time  and  reported  that 
he  had  killed  another  calf  after  chasing  it  three  miles, 
making  the  totol  number  killed  in  the  first  day's  buffalo 
hunt  by  the  Camp  of  the  Latter-day  Saints,  already  re- 
ported as  follows:  one  bull,  three  cows  and  six  calves,  a 
circumstance  far  exceeding  our  expectations  and  best 
hopes,  and  all  without  the  slightest  accident  or  loss  to 
man  or  property,  except  Luke  Johnson's  cap  and  a  ram- 
rod to  a  rifle.  There  is,  however,  one  shade  of  suspense 
caused  by  the  intelligence  that  Joseph  Hancock  has  not 
returned  to  camp.  He  started  out  on  foot  when  the  three 
buffalo  were  first  discovered  this  morning  and  has  not 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  123 

been  seen  or  heard  of  for  sometime.     Considerable  fear 
is  entertained  for  his  safety  from  the  fact  that  he  is  lame, 

,and  it  is  evident,  or  at  least  considered  so,  that  there  are 
Indians  near  because  a  large  smoke  as  of  prairie  burning 
has  been  seen  all  the  afternoon  within  some  six  or  eight 
miles  to  the  west  and  must  have  been  set  on  fire  by  some- 
body and  the  probability  is,  it  is  Indians,  although  none 
has  been  seen  for  several  days.  The  meat  was  cut  up 
into  quarters  and  distributed  one  quarter  to  each  com- 
pany of  ten,  leaving  some  to  be  distributed  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  in  a  short  time  every  fire  was  loaded  with  it, 
and  the  camp  had  a  good  feast  on  the  fruits  of  today's 
labors. 

Soon  after  the  hunters  started  out  at  noon  we  came 
to  a  long  range  of  dog  towns  and  saw  many  of  the  little 
prairie  dogs  playing  around  their  holes.  The  extent  of 
this  dog  town  is  yet  unknown,  for  we  have  traveled  over, 
and  paralled  with  it  about  five  miles  this  afternoon,  and 
they  seem  to  extend  still  farther  west.  In  some  places 

-  the  town  is  nearly  two  miles  broad,  in  others  not  so  much, 
and  must  contain  thousands  of  the  little  dogs.  I  could 
not  get  near  enough  to  see  their  form  distinctly,  for  they 
are  so  quick  into  their  holes  when  anything  approaches, 
you  can  only  have  a  partial  view  of  them.  They  appear 
to  be  about  as  long  as  a  common  grey  squirrel  but  more 
chunky,  a  larger  body  and  chubbed  head.  The  tail  is 
short,  more  resembling  that  of  a  dog,  their  color  light 
brown.  Their  bark  resembles  the  chirp  of  an  English 
throstle,  and  something  like  the  chirp  of  a  squirrel.  They  * 
appear  to  live  on  grass  as  it  is  all  eaten  off  close  to  the 
ground  throughout  the  extent  of  their  dog  town,  and 


124  WILLIAM    CLAYTOiN'S   JOURNAL. 

the  ground  looks  naked  and  barren  as  a  desert.  Several 
of  the  brethren  shot  at  the  dogs  but  failed  in  killing  any. 
\Ye  had  a  north  wind  this  afternoon  and  cold  weather, 
our  course  being  nearly  west  over  a  level  prairie,  not  far 
distant  from  the  island.  Since  noon  we  traveled  about 
eight  miles,  and  the  encampment  was  formed  at  half  past 
six  o'clock  near  a  small  lake  about  a  mile  above  the  head 
of  Grand  Island.  The  grass  is  not  so  good  here  as  it 
has  been  back,  and  but  a  poor  chance  for  the  cattle,  etc., 
to  fill  themselves. 

The  appearance  of  the  wild  buffalo  at  a  distance  is 
somewhat  singular.  The  color  of  the  back  and  about  half 
way  down  the  sides  is  a  light  brown,  the  rest  is  a  very 
dark  brown.  The  shoulder  appears  slightly  rounding 
and  humped.  When  running,  the  large  shaggy  head 
hangs  low  down,  about  half  way  in  height  between  the 
ground  and  the  top  of  the  shoulder.  They  canter  like 
any  ox  or  cow,  but  appear  far  more  cumbersome  and 
heavy,  especially  about  the  fore  parts,  which  look  larger 
than  they  really  are  on  account  of  the  long,  thick  matty 
hair.  They  run  tolerably  fast,  but  a  good  horse  will 
easily  gain  on  them.  They  will  run  a  long  time  without 
diminishing  their  speed.  Their  meat  is  very  sweet  and 
tender  as  veal. 

SUNDAY.  2xD.  This  morning  is  fine  but  cold.  Ice 
about  half  an  inch  thick.  Sometime  in  the  night  a  buffalo 
and  calf  came  within  a  short  distance  of  the  wagons.  The 
guard  discovered  them  and  shot  at  the  calf,  wounding 
it  in  the  hind  leg.  They  caught  it  alive  and  tied  it  up 
near  the  wagons  but  concluded  finally  to  kill  and  dress 
it.  About  six  o'clock  we  were  gladdened  to  see  Joseph 


WILLIAM:  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  125 

Hancock  come  into  camp  with  a  piece  of  buffalo  meat. 
He  reported  that  he  killed  a  buffalo  yesterday  back  on 
the  bluffs,  and  there  being  no  one  with  him  he  concluded 
to  stay  by  it  over  night.  He  made  a  fire  and  scattered  a 
little  powder  around  his  buffalo  to  keep  off  the  wolves. 
Some  visited  him  during  the  night,  but  were  awed  by 
the  fire.  After  he  had  told  his  story  and  taken  breakfast, 
Brother  Hancock  started  in  company  with  four  or  five 
other  brethren  to  fetch  in  the  meat  on  horseback,  as  no 
wagons  could  get  over  the  bluffs  to  it.  They  found  that  the 
wolves  had  devoured  much  of  it,  but  the  balance  they 
brought  along  with  them.  They  also  killed  two  antelope 
and  brought  them  into  camp.  The  total  number  of  buffalo 
now  caught  is  five  large  ones  and  seven  calves.  Edmund 
Ellsworth  killed  one  of  the  prairie  dogs,  and  brought  it 
to  camp.  It  looks  much  like  a  squirrel,  only  the  body 
is  thicker  and  the  tail  short  and  no  bush  on  it.  The  day 
grew  pleasant  till  about  noon,  when  it  became  cloudy  and 
cold.  President  Young,  Kimball  and  others  started  out 
to  look  out  a  camp  ground  where  better  feed  can  be 
obtained  for  our  stock.  They  returned  a  little  after  two 
and  gave  orders  to  go  on  a  few  miles.  There  have  been  a 
number  of  buffalo  seen  in  different  directions,  one  graz- 
ing within  three  quarters  of  a  mile  from  camp,  but  orders 
were  not  to  hunt  or  shoot  today.  At  three-fifteen  the 
camp  started  and  traveled  two  miles  over  dog  towns  as 
yesterday.  At  a  little  after  four  p.  m.  we  camped  beside 
a  long  lake  of  shoal,  clear  water  near  the  banks  of  the 
Platte.  This  lake  is  about  three  rods  wide  and  connects 
with  the  river.  The  Platte  appears  about  two  miles  wide  at 
this  place  but  very  ,,hoal  and  muddy.  There  is  no  timber 


126  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

but  plenty  of  grass,  mostly  last  year's  growth.  The 
weather  is  more  temperate  and  the  wind  ceased.  Presi- 
dent Young,  Kimball  and  others  went  on  to  look  out  a 
crossing  place  over  this  lake,  etc.  On  their  way,  they 
fell  in  with  a  buffalo  cow  and  calf  and  chased  them  some 
to  get  a  view  of  them  but  not  to  kill.  On  their  return 
they  said  we  should  tarry  here  tomorrow  and  have  some 
blacksmith  work  done  and  probably  hunt  some.  Half  of 
the  hide  off  the  bull's  face  was  brought  into  camp.  On 
examination  I  found  the  mark  where  Porter  shot  at  his 
head.  The  ball  made  a  small  hole,  barely  cutting  through  . 
the  outer  surface  or  grain  of  the  hide  which  was  near 
an  inch  thick.  The  hair  near  the  top  of  the  head  is  about 
a  foot  long. 

MONDAY,  SRD.  This  morning  cold  and  ice  in  the 
water  pails.  The  hunters  are  going  out  on  foot.  Tanner 
and  Davenport  are  fixing  their  forges  to  do  some  re- 
pairing, shoeing,  etc.  At  about  nine  the  hunters,  twenty 
in  number,  started  out  with  two  wagons  which  had  been 
unloaded  for  the  purpose.  At  the  same  time,  fifteen  of 
the  brethren  on  horseback  started  west  to  examine  the 
route,  etc.  At  two-thirty  the  party  who  went  to  look  out 
the  route  returned  and  reported  that  Brother  Empey  had 
discovered  a  large  war  party  of  Indians  while  he  was 
chasing  an  antelope.  The  Indians  are  in  a  hollow  about 
twelve  miles  distance  and  about  three  hundred  in  number, 
some  on  their  horses  and  some  standing  beside  them  hold- 
ing the  bridle.  The  company  also  saw  nearly  twenty 
scattered  Indians  about  four  miles  from  here.  When  this 
report  was  made,  orders  were  given  to  dispatch  a  num- 
ber of  the  brethren  on  horses,  well  armed  to  warn  the 


WILLIAM  CLAVTOX'S  JOURNAL.  127 

hunters  and  tell  them  to  come  to  camp.  In  about  half 
an  hour,  twenty-three  men  started  out  on  this  mission. 
Before  they  reached  the  bluffs  which  are  about  four  miles 
from  here,  some  of  the  hunters  were  on  their  way  to 
camp,  having  seen  only  one  buffalo  during  the  day.  In 
a  little  time  all  the  hunters  were  notified  and  were  on 
their  way  back.  They  arrived  about  six  o'clock,  having 
got  three  antelope,  and  the  horsemen  who  went  after 
them  got  two  calves  which  were  all  brought  in  and  the 
day  passed  without  accident.  Some  of  the  brethren  saw 
some  objects  at  a  distance,  which,  by  their  motions  they 
were  satisfied  were  Indians.  The  day  has  been  fine  but 
cool  and  cloudy,  with  occasionally  a  few  drops  of  rain.  A 
number  of  wagon  tires  have  been  set  and  other  blacksmith- 
ing,  washing,  drying  meat,  etc.,  done.  The  wind  near 
south.  The  cannon  was  unlimbered  at  night  and  pre- 
pared for  action  in  case  it  should  be  needed. 

TUESDAY,  4-TH.  The  morning  fine  but  cool,  wind 
about  southwest.  Two  horses  ran  east  as  much  as  six  or 
eight  miles  and  were  pursued  by  the  brethren  and  brought 
back.  William  Smoot  was  thrown  from  a  horse  and 
his  senses  knocked  out  of  him  by  the  fall.  He  soon  re- 
covered and  appears  to  have  sustained  no  injury. 

At  seven-thirty  the  camp  was  called  and  received  in- 
structions from  President  Young,  especially  in  regard  to 
leaving  the  wagons  and  scattering  off  hunting  without 
counsel.  He  strongly  urged  the  brethren  not  to  do  it  any 
more  and  said  if  they  did,  some  of  them  would  be  caught 
by  the  Indians  and  if  not  killed  would  be  severely  abused. 
The  instructions  and  regulations  given  April  17th  were 
read  and  enjoined  upon  the  camp  to  be  observed  more 


128  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

strictly.  It  was  decided  that  the  cannon  wagon  should  be 
unloaded,  the  box  put  on  another  wagon  so  that  the  can- 
non can  be  always  ready  for  action.  An  addition  of  ten 
volunteers  was  made  to  the  standing  guard  and  ordered 
that  all  horses  and  mules  should  be  tied  inside  the  circle 
at  night,  and  the  cattle  and  cows  outside  within  a  few 
rods  of  the  wagons.  A  guard  to  be  placed  around  the 
cattle  when  turned  out  to  graze.  It  is  thought  best  to 
travel  with  the  wagons  four  abreast  and  the  cannon  to 
go  in  the  rear. 

At  nine  o'clock  the  wagons  commenced  moving  and 
passed  over  the  lake  near  its  junction  with  the  river,  at 
which  place,  it  is  about  ten  or  twelve  feet  wide. 

After  traveling  about  a  half  a  mile  the  camp  stopped 
some  time,  waiting  for  some  wagons  behind.  While 
stopping,  three  wagons  were  discovered  on  the  opposite 
bank  of  the  river,  considered  to  be  traders  going  back  to 
Council  Bluffs.  The  river  is  about  two  miles  wide  and 
no  person  here  acquainted  with  it,  consequently  no  one 
attempted  to  go  over,  wThich  many  desired.  About  eleven 
o'clock  we  proceeded,  five  wagons  abreast  so  as  to  be 
better  prepared  for  defense  should  the  Indians  attack 
us.  After  traveling  about  two  miles,  one  of  the  men 
from  the  wagons  on  the  other  side  the  river  overtook 
us  and  we  halted  to  see  him.  He  said  there  are  only  nine 
of  them.  They  have  been  to  Fort  Laramie  for  furs  and 
are  going  to  Council  Bluffs.  This  is  the  sixteenth  day 
since  they  left  the  fort  with  ox  teams.  He  says  the  road 
is  good  on  the  other  side  and  the  river  easily  forded, 
being  not  more  than  knee  deep  in  the  deepest  place  and 
a  good  bottom.  He  cheerfully  agreed  to  carry  letters 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  129 

back  for  us  but  could  not  wait  long.  I  wrote  one  to  my 
family  and  in  about  half  an  hour  a  pretty  large  mail  was 
made  up  to  send  back  to  Winter  Quarters,  and  may  the 
Lord  grant  that,  it  may  arrive  safely.  Brother  John- 
son bought  a  buffalo  robe  of  the  man  for  about  a  pound 
and  a  half  of  coffee,  and  another  brother  bought  one  for 
a  pound  of  sugar  and  a  little  pork.  I  feel  my  mind  re 
lieved  by  this  unexpected  privilege  of  writing  back  to 
my  dear  family  and  hope  they  will  have  the  pleasure  of 
perusing  the  contents. 

At  twenty  minutes  after  one  the  bugle  sounded  for 
a  march,  and  the  messenger  is  returning  with  the  letters 
and  a  bag  of  provisions  on  his  shoulder  which  the  breth- 
ren have  given  him  for  carrying  the  letters.  We  trav- 
eled about  four  miles  farther  and  at  three-thirty,  stopped 
to  let  the  teams  feed  on  a  small  spot  where  the  fire  has 
not  touched,  the  rest  having  all  been  burned  off  within  a 
few  days.  We  have  traveled -today  only  about  six  miles, 
having  stopped  much.  The  country  is  still  very  level 
and  nice  traveling  only  for  the  dust.  The  wind  south  and 
our  course  nearly  west.  When  the  trader  went  back  over 
the  river,  Thomas  Woolsey,  John  Brown  and  John  Pack 
accompanied  him  on  horses  to  speak  with  a  person  whom 
Brother  Woolsey  is  acquainted  with.  They  returned  soon 
after  we  stopped  to  feed  and  say  that  the  river  is  very 
good  to  cross,  not  being  more  than  two  feet  deep  in  the 
deepest  place,  and  the  bottom  good.  The  horses  broke 
through  but  very  little.  The  traders  say  furthermore, 
that  if  we  continue  on  this  side,  we  shall  have  to  cross 
the  river  twice  where  the  water  is  much  deeper  and  can- 
not be  crossed  only  in  a  ferry.  There  is  a  good  trav- 

10 


130  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

eled  road  also,  which  would  be  an  advantage  we  have  not 
got  on  this  side.  During  the  time  we  stopped  to  feed,  a 
guard  was  placed  around  the  cattle  and  horses  to  keep 
them  from  straying  far  from  the  wagons.  Then  men 
were  called  out  and  drilled  with  their  loaded  guns  in  the 
circle  formed  by  the  wagons.  Some  objects  are  seen 
grazing  about  four  miles  west  of  us  thought  to  be  buffalo. 
Thirteen  in  number.  Some  of  the  hunters  are  going  out 
to  give  them  a  chase,  and  try  to  kill  some  of  them.  At 
a  quarter  after  five  o'clock,  the  camp  was  called  together 
and  Brother  Brown  reported  what  the  traders  said  about 
the  route,  etc.,  as  above.  The  subject  was  then  talked 
over  and  when  it  was  considered  that  we  are  making  a 
road  for  thousands  of  saints  to  follow,  and  they  cannot 
ford  the  river  when  the  snow  melts  from  the  mountains, 
it  was  unanimously  voted  to  keep  on  this  side  as  far  as 
Fort  Laramie  at  least.  Soon  after  this  we  started  on 
again.  Saw  a  lone  buffalo  but  a  short  distance  from  us 
but  it  galloped  across  the  river.  Saw  also  a  number  of 
antelope  and  some  deer.  About  seven  o'clock  we  passed 
a  spot  where  the  Indians  have  camped  and  must  have 
been  many  of  them.  A  while  after  sundown  we  arrived 
at  a  creek  of  good  water  and  camped  for  the  night,  hav- 
ing traveled  about  nine  miles  today.  The  prairie  level 
but  all  the  grass  burned  off,  except  in  small  patches.  We 
have  camped  on  a  small  spot  which  has  escaped  the 
fire.  Elder  Kimball,  who  was  one  of  the  hunters  who 
started  out  at  four  o'clock,  said  the  objects  seen  from 
camp  were  antelope,  but  he  had  seen  a  herd  of  buffalo 
about  a  mile  ahead  of  where  we  now  are.  He  named  this 
creek,  Buffalo  creek. 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  131 

WEDNESDAY,  STH.  The  morning  fine  and  very  pleas- 
ant. Saw  two  small  herds  of  buffalo  a  few  miles  from 
camp.  At  seven-thirty  continued  our  journey.  I  went  on 
foot  about  two  miles  and  then  stopped  to  count  the 
horses,  mules,  oxen,  etc.,  and  afterwards  walked  on  again 
to  the  first  wagons.  Here  Elder  Kimball  offered  %me  his 
horse  to  ride.  I  then  went  ahead  with  the  horsemen. 
We  soon  after  came  to  a  very  bad  slough  and  had  to 
bear  off  to  the  north  to  find  a  place  to  cross  it.  The 
prairie  after  we  crossed  this  slough  about  a  mile  wide 
from  the  river  was  very  soft  and  it  was  necessary  to  bear 
still  farther  to  the  north.  The  horses  feet  cut  through 
the  sod  and  the  ground  appeared  wet  under,  although 
there  has  been  no  rain  for  some  time.  At  eleven-thirty 
we  stopped  to  feed  on  a  small  patch  of  unburnt  grass, 
having  come  about  nine  miles,  course  about  west,  with  a 
very  strong  south  wind.  There  were  two  buffalo  \vithin 
about  a  half  a  mile  from  camp,  grazing.  Some  of  the 
brethren  went  to  view  them,  but  the  orders  of  the  day 
are  not  to  kill  anything  which  the  men  cannot  carry  to 
camp.  There  are  no  appearances  of  Indians  near  except 
the  prairie  which  is  still  burning  ahead  of  us,  supposed 
to  be  set  on  fire  by  them.  About  one  p.  m.  continued  our 
journey  and  traveled  till  three  p.  m.,  when  some  of  the 
hunters  came  in,  bringing  a  live  buffalo  calf,  also  one  they 
had  killed.  They  reported  that  John  Brown,  Jackson 
Redding  and  John  S.  Higbee,  Luke  Johnson  had  each 
killed  a  calf.  The  one  killed  by  Brother  Higbee  having 
previously  been  shot  by  Amasa  Lyman.  Joseph  Mathews 
killed  a  cow  and  Elder  Kimball,  O.  P.  Rockwell  and  John 
S.  Higbee  chased  the  one  brought  in  alive  until  a  dog 


132  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

seized  it  and  Porter  left  his  horse  and  caught  it  without 
shooting  at  it  and  led  it  to  camp.  The  revenue  cutter 
was  unloaded  and  sent  after  the  cow  and  calf  left,  they 
being  about  three  miles  off.  We  traveled  on  about  a  half 
an  hour  and  found  the  prairie  all  in  a  blaze.  President 
Young  and  Kimball  thinking  it  unsafe  to  risk  the  wagons 
near  the  fire,  ordered  the  camp  to  go  back  a  half  a  mile 
to  an  island  where  we  can  have  water  for  our  teams 
and  be  secure  from  the  fire.  The  prairie  is  all  burned 
bare  and  the  black  ashes  fly  bad,  making  the  brethren 
look  more  like  Indians  than  white  folks.  There  is  some 
feed  on  the  Island,  and  the  cattle  easily  ford  the  stream 
to  it.  The  calf  is  tied  in  the  circle.  When  a  dog  goes 
near  it,  it  will  attack  the  largest  and  they  flee  from  it, 
though  not  more  than  six  or  eight  weeks  old.  About 
half  past  six  the  revenue  cutter  arrived  with  the  meat, 
which  was  fatter  than  any  we  have  had.  They  also 
brought  in  another  calf  which  they  killed  while  out  for 
the  cow,  making  a  total  of  one  cow  and  six  calves  brought 
into  camp  today.  The  meat  was  divided  amongst  the 
companies  of  ten,  each  having  either  a  calf  or  half  a 
quarter  of  a  cow. 

THURSDAY,  6TH.  This  morning  at  five-fifteen,  Presi- 
dent Young  called  to  the  camp  and  proposed  to  go  on  to 
where  we  can  find  feed  for  the  teams.  The  brethren  as- 
sented and  he  gave  orders  to  start  as  quickly  as  possible. 
However,  some  must  feed  their  teams  a  little  corn,  some 
milk  their  cows,  etc.,  and  it  took  till  near  six-thirty  to 
get  started.  During  the  night  the  Lord  sent  a  light 
shower  of  rain  which  has  put  the  fire  out  except  in  one 
or  two  places  and  made  it  perfectly  safe  traveling.  We 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.    .  133 

have  had  a  strong  southeast  wind  through  the  night  but 
the  morning  is  calm  and  pleasant.  We  traveled  about 
two  miles  and  stopped  on  the  unburned  grass  to  feed  at 
a  quarter  to  seven.  Several  antelope  were  surrounded 
by  the  brethren  and  some  shot  at  them,  killing  one.  The 
rest  made  their  escape.  We  can  see  several  large  herds 
of  buffalo,  within  about  two  miles  of  the  camp  and  many 
calves  amongst  them.  President  Young  and  Kimball 
rodet  ahead  to  find  a  place  to  stop  for  feed.  The  ground 
is  hard  and  good  traveling.  At  a  quarter  to  nine,  pro- 
ceeded on,  President  Young  and  Kimball  going  ahead 
to  point  out  the  road.  Our  course  about  northwest,  the 
wind  strong  from  west.  We  traveled  near  the  river.  Saw 
thirteen  elk  together,  also  many  antelope  and  numerous 
herds  of  buffalo  on  both  sides  of  the  river.  Jackson  Red- 
ding shot  an  antelope  which  Luke  Johnson  chased  near 
the  \vagons. 

A  young  buffalo  calf  followed  Luke  to  camp,  but 
the  President  advised  him  to  leave  it  as  it  is  only  a  few 
days  old.  We  stopped  near  the  river  at  a  quarter  to 
twelve,  having  traveled  about  six  miles.  We  find  a  little 
more  grass  here,  but  the  numerous  herds  of  buffalo  keep 
it  eaten  off  close  to  the  ground  nearly  all  the  way  we  have 
traveled  today.  The  President  gave  orders  that  no  more 
game  should  be  killed  until  further  orders.  It  appears  we 
have  got  as  much  meat  in  camp  as  can  be  taken  care  of. 
While  we  were  stopping  for  noon,  some  of  the  cows 
moved  off  towards  a  large  buffalo  herd,  and  when  Presi- 
dent Young  and  Kimball  started  ahead  after  dinner  they 
discovered  the  cows  near  the  buffalo.  Brother  Woolsey 
went  to  turn  them  back,  but  he  had  to  run  his  mule  some 


134  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

distance  before  he  could  prevent  the  cows  from  ming- 
ling with  the  buffalo.  They  brought  the  cows  back  to 
the  wagons  and  then  proceeded  ahead  again.  One  part 
of  the  horsemen's  business  today  has  been  to  drive  the 
buffalo  out  of  our  track,  judging  it  unsafe  to  risk  them 
between  the  wagons  and  the  river.  The  camp  proceeded 
on  at  one-thirty  and  in  about  two  miles  distance  found  a 
lake  of  clear  water.  Here  we  discovered  the  horsemen 
coming  back,  and  found  that  the  President  had  lost  his 
large  spy  glass,  while  chasing  the  cows  from  the  buffalo 
herd,  a  second  time.  He  did  not  find  it.  We  traveled 
slowly  this  afternoon,  some  of  the  horses  and  oxen  having 
given  out  in  consequence  of  lack  of  feed  to  sustain  them. 
We  traveled  till  six-thirty  and  camped  near  some  islands 
in  the  river,  having  traveled  about  seven  miles  this  after- 
noon and  fifteen  through  the  day,  our  coarse  a  little  west 
of  northwest.  Wind  about  west.  Some  think  we  have 
traveled  eighteen,  some  twenty  and  some  even  twenty-five 
miles  today,  but  from  the  number  of  times  we  stopped 
and  the  slowness  with  which  the  teams  moved,  I  feel  sat- 
isfied that  fifteen  miles  is  plenty.  About  three  quarters  of 
a  mile  back  we  saw  a  buffalo  cow  which  appears  to  be 
sick.  She  fought  the  dogs  some  time  and  then  lay  down, 
and  the  brethren  went  close  to  her,  some  venturing  to 
feel  and  handle  her.  I  was  within  six  or  eight  feet  of 
her  and  had  a  good  view,  as  much  as  I  wanted.  She  has 
lost  all  her  hair  and  looks'  very  poor  and  weak.  The 
President  ordered  that  the  brethren  leave  her  and  not 
disturb  her  and  she  was  left  lying  down,  but  it  is  doubt- 
ful the  wolves  will  kill  and  eat  her  before  morning.  When 
the  brethren  went  back  to  hunt  the  spy  glass  they  found 


WILLIAM,  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  135 

that  the  wolves  had  killed  the  calf  and  nearly  eaten  it  up. 
What  they  had  not  eaten,  they  carried  off  with  them. 
We  have  never  been  out  of  sight  of  herds  of  buffalo  to- 
day, and  from  where  we  are  camped,  I  am  satisfied  we 
can  see  over  five  thousand  with  the  glass.  The  largest 
herd,  we  have  yet  seen  is  still  ahead  of  us.  The  prairie 
looks  black  with  them,  both  on  this  and  the  other  side 
of  the  river.  Some  think  we  have  passed  fifty,  and  some 
even  a  hundred  thousand  during  the  day,  or  have  seen 
them.  It  is  truly  a  sight  wonderful  to  behold,  and  can 
scarcely  be  credited  by  those  who  have  not  actually  seen 
them. 

FRIDAY,  ?TH.  This  morning  the  wind  northwest  and 
almost  as  cold  as  winter.  The  buffalo  vastly  numerous 
all  around.  About  eight  a.  m.  the  camp  was  called  to- 
gether and  measures  taken  to  raise  more  teams  to  put  to 
the  canyon  as  some  of  the  horses  and  even  cattle  have 
given  out.  The  President  chastized  Elder  Snow  for  not 
attending  to  the  cowi  yesterday  causing  the  President  to 
loose  his  spy  glass,  it  being  Brother  Snow's  turn  to  drive 
the  cows  according  to  his  own  voluntary  agreement.  At  a 
little  before  eleven  o'clock,  Porter  Rockwell,  Thomas 
Drown  and  Joseph  Mathews  started  back  to  hunt  the 
>l>y  glass,  and  soon  after  they  left,  the  camp  roceeded  on- 
ward. The  clay  was  cloudy  and  very  cold.  Our  course 
about  northwest.  We  traveled  about  seven  miles  and 
camped  at  two-thirty  near  several  small  islands,  on  the 
banks  of  the  river.  About  four  p.  m.,  Porter  and  the 
others  returned,  having  found  the  spy  glass  which  was 
a  source  of  joy  to  all  the  brethren.  At  six-thirty  the 


136  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

companies  were  called  out  to  drill.    I  have  been  very  sick 
all  day  with  a  complaint  and  have  suffered  much. 

SATURDAY,  STH.  Morning  cold  but  fine.  Started  out 
at  nine  o'clock  and  traveled  till  one  p.  m.,  distance  seven 
and  a  half  miles,  course  a  little  west  of  northwest.  The 
prairie  on  both  sides  of  the  river  is  literally  black  with 
buffalo,  and  to  try  to  say  as  to  what  number  we  have  seen 
this  morning  would  be  folly.  I  should  imagine  that  at  a 
moderate  calculation,  we  have  seen  over  fifty  thousand. 
They  are  more  tame  than  they  have  been,  and  will  stand 
till  the  wagons  come  within  two  hundred  yards  of  them. 
Porter  has  shot  one  about  two  years  old,  the  meat  looks 
nice.  There,  is  no  difficulty  in  getting  meat  enough.  It 
is  with  some  difficulty  that  the  horsemen  can  drive  them 
away  from  the  track  as  fast  as  the  wagons  come  up.  It 
is  very  warm  today,  and  no  wind.  I  have  counted  the 
revolutions  of  a  wagon  wheel  to  tell  the  exact  distance 
we  have  traveled.  The  reason  why  I  have  taken  this 
method  which  is  somewhat  tedious;  is  because  there  is 
generally  a  difference  of  two  and  sometimes  four  miles 
in  a  day's  travel  between  my  estimation  and  that  of  some 
others,  and  they  have  all  thought  I  underrated  it.  This 
morning  I  determined  to  take  pains  to  know  for  a  cer- 
tainty how  far  we  travel  today.  Accordingly  I  measured 
the  circumferenc  of  the  nigh  hind  wheel  of  one  of  Brother 
Kimball's  wagons  being  the  one  I  sleep  in,  in  charge  of 
Philo  Johnson.  I  found  the  wheel  14  feet  8  inches  in 
circumference,  not  varying  one  eighth  of  an  inch.  I  then 
calculated  how  many  revolutions  it  would  require  for 
one  mile  and  found  it  precisely  360  not  varying  one  frac- 
tion which  somewhat  astonished  me.  I  have  counted  the 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  137 

whole  revolutions  during  the  day's  travel  and  I  find  it 
to  be  a  little  over  eleven  and  a  quarter  miles, — twenty 
revolutions  over.  The  overplus  I  shall  add  to  the  next 
day's  travel.  According  to  my  previous  calculations  we 
were  two  hundred  eighty-five  miles  from  Winter  Quarters 
this  morning  before  we  started.  After  traveling  ten  miles 
I  placed  a  small  cedar  post  in  the  ground  with  these 
words  written  on  it  with  a  pencil.  "From  Winter  Quarters, 
two  hundred  ninety-five  miles,  May  8,  '47.  Camp  all  well. 
Wm.  Clayton."  Some  have  past  the  days  travel  at 
thirteen  and  some  fourteen  miles,  which  serves  to  con- 
vince more  strongly  that  the  distances  are  overrated.  I 
have  repeatedly  suggested  a  plan  of  fixing  machinery  to 
a  wagon  wheel  to  tell  the  exact  distance  we  travel  in  a 
day,  and  many  begin  to  be  sanguine  for  carrying  it  into 
effect,  and  I  hope  it  will  be  done.  Our  course  this  after- 
noon has  been  northwest,  no  wind  and  the  prairie  as  bare 
as  a  poor  English  pasture,  the  grass  being  eaten  off  by 
uncountable  herds  of  buffalo.  No  pen  nor  tongue  can 
give  an  idea  of  the  multitude  now  in  sight  continually, 
and  it  appears  difficult  to  keep  them  away  from  the 
wagons.  Two  calves  have  been  killed  and  brought  to 
camp  and  multitudes  would  be  killed  if  the  President 
did  not  prohibit  the  brethren  from  killing  them  only  as 
we  need  the  meat.  Truly,  the  Lord's  cattle  upon  the 
thousand  hills  are  numerous.  We  are  now  camped  on 
the  banks  of  the  river  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from 
where  the  range  of  bluffs,  which  have  appeared  exceed- 
ingly ragged  all  day  strike  the  river,  and  when  we  move 
again  we  have  got  to  cross  over  them.  President  Young 
and  Kimball  have  been  back  on  the  bluffs  on  foot  some 


138  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

distance  and  report  that  as  far  as  they  can  see  the  grass 
is  eaten  perfectly  bare  and  the  prospect  for  feed  for  our 
teams  is  poor  indeed.  There  are  several  buffalo  lying 
dead  around  here  whether  dead  from  old  age,  or  by  the 
hands  of  hunters  or  of  starvation,  it  is  unknown.  Many 
of  the  brethren  have  to  cook  their  victuals  on  dry  buffaio 
dung,  there  being  no  wood  near. 

SUXDAY,  9m.  The  morning  very  cold  with  wind 
southeast.  At  seven-fifty  we  proceeded  on  three  and  a 
half  miles,  going  a  little  around  some  of  the  bluffs  until 
we  turned  down  on  a  low  bottom  and  very  sandy.  We 
have  camped  near  some  islands  and  can  get  wood  and 
water,  but  poor  feed  for  the  teams.  We  arrived  here  at 
nine-fifty  and  shall  stay  till  morning.  Soon  as  the  camp 
was  formed,  I  went  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile  below 
to  the  river  and  washed  my  socks,  towel  and  handkerchief 
as  well  as  I  could  in  cold  water  without  soap.  I  then 
stripped  my  clothing  off  and  washed  from  head  to  foot, 
which  has  made  me  feel  much  more  comfortable  for  I 
was  covered  with  dust.  After  washing  and  putting  on 
clean  clothing  I  sat  down  on  the  banks  of  the  river  and 
gave  way  to  a  long  train  of  solemn  reflections  respecting 
many  things,  especially  in  regard  to  my  family  and  their 
welfare  for  time  and  eternity.  I  shall  not  write  my 
thoughts  here,  inasmuch  as  I  expect  this  journal  will  have 
to  pass  through  other  thands  besides  my  own  or  that  of 
my  family  but  if  I  can  carry  my  plans  into  operation,  they 
will  be  written  in  a  manner  that  my  family  will  each  get 
their  portion,  whether  before  my  death  or  after,  it  mat- 
ters not. 

The  dav  is  verv  warm  and  the  wind  has  moved  to 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  139 

the  west.  According  to  my  calculations,  we  are  now 
300  miles  from  \Yinter  Quarters,  lacking  a  few  rods.  I 
got  a  small  board  and  wrote  on  it:  "From  Winter  Quar- 
ters three  hundred  miles,  May  9,  1847.  Pioneer  Camp  all 
well.  Distance  according  to  the  reckoning  of  Wm.  Clay- 
ton." This  was  nailed  on  a  post  and  in'  the  evening  I 
went  and  set  it  up  about  three  hundred  yards  from  here 
on  a  bend  of  the  river.  Spent  the  afternoon  reading  and 
writing  in  Elder  Kimball's  journal.  At  three  p.  m.  a 
meeting  was  called  and  the  camp  addressed  by  several. 
President  Young  took  tea  with  Elder  Kimball,  and  after- 
wards they  started  out  together  with  one  or  two  others 
to  look  at  the  country  ahead  of  us.  They  went  a  few 
miles  and  found  a  small  stream  which  we  shall  have  to 
cross.  Here  they  saw  multitudes  of  buffalo  coming  to 
water.  Porter  and  Phineas  Young  went  within  six  or 
eight  rods  of  them  to  try  to  get  one,  but  in  the  whole 
herd,  they  could  not  find  one  fit  to  kill.  They  are  very 
poor,  for  there  is  no  feed  for  them,  and  in  fact  they  are 
so  numerous  that  they  eat  the  grass  as  fast  as  it  springs. 
There  are,  however,  some  good  cottonwood  groves  and 
good  water  at  the  stream.  After  sundown  the  wind  blew 
strong  from  the  northwest  and  the  evening  was  cold  and 
chilly. 

MONDAY,  lOrn.  The  morning  fine  but  cool.  The 
wind  nearly  ceased.  Last  night  I  dreamed  that  I  was  in 
company  with  the  camp  which  was  stopping  beside  a 
considerable  river  of  deep  water.  Our  horses  and  cattle 
were  tied  to  stakes  all  around  the  camp  to  the  distance 
of  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  some  good  timber  thinly  scattered 
around.  I  thought  President  Young.  Kimball  and  sev- 


140  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

eral  others  started  up  the  river  in  a  flat  boat  without 
stating  their  object,  leaving  the  brethren  to  guard  the 
camp,  cattle,  etc.  in  their  absence.  When  they  had  been 
gone  sometime  I  thought  a  large  herd  of  buffalo  came 
on  full  gallop  right  amongst  our  horses  arid  cattle,  caus- 
ing them  to  break  their  ropes  and  fly  in  every  direction. 
The  brethren  seemed  thunderstruck  and  did  not  know 
what  to  do.  Seeing  a  small  skiff  in  the  river,  I  sprang 
into  it,  and  a  paddle  lying  in  it,  I  commenced  rowing  in 
pursuit  of  the  President.  It  seemed  as  though  I  literally 
flew  through  the  water  passing  everything  on  the  way 
like  a  railway  carriage.  In  a  few  minutes  I  overtook 
the  brethren  in  the  flat  boat,  took  the  skiff  and  threw  it 
on  shore  and  to  my  astonishment  I  saw  that  the  skiff 
was  made  only  of  barks  and  cracked  all  over,  and  it 
seemed  impossible  to  put  it  in  the  water  without  sink- 
ing it.  The  paddle  with  which  I  had  rowed  proved  to 
be  a  very  large  feather  and  I  had  another  feather  in  my 
left  hand  with  which  I  steered'the  skiff.  When  I  got  into 
the  flat  boat,  I  made  known  what  had  passed  in  the  camp, 
but  the  brethren  seemed  no  ways  alarmed.  I  awoke  and 
behold,  it  was  all  a  dream.  Dr.  Richards  is  going  to  de- 
posit a  letter  in  a  stick  of  wood  prepared  for  the  pur- 
pose near  this  place  in  such  a  manner  that  the  next  com- 
pany will  discover  it.  He  fixed  it  on  a  long  pole  and 
being  assisted  by  President  Young  and  others  raised  it 
and  fixed  it  firm  in  the  ground.  His  distance  from  Winter 
Quarters  three  hundred  and  sixteen  miles.  At  nine  five 
the  camp  proceeded  onward.  After  traveling  two  miles 
we  crossed  a  small  creek  which  Elder  Kimball  named 
Skunk  creek,  easily  forded,  though  the  ground  was  soft 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  TOURNAL.  141 

on  the  west  side.  About  this  time  the  brethren  at  the 
head  of  the  camp  discovered  a  strange  horse  alone  on  the 
prairie.  Porter  and  Thomas  Brown  gave  chase  to  try 
to  catch  it.  Brother  John  Brown  states  that  when  the 
Mississippi  company  passed  on  the  other  side  last  season, 
one  of  the  brethren  lost  a  mare  and  two  colts,  and  this  is 
supposed  to  be  the  oldest  of  the  two.  When  Brother 
Woolsey  and  Tippets  came  through  from  the  battalion 
last  winter  they  saw  the  same  horse  near  here.  We  trav- 
eled till  twelve  five  and  finding  a  little  better  feed 
stopped  for  dinner  having  traveled  a  few  rods  over  six 
miles.  The  last  two  miles  was  over  very  soft  prairie 
and  although  the  last  year's  grass  has  not  been  burned, 
the  wheels  cut  through  the  sod  frequently.  At  the  creek 
four  miles  back,  some  of  the  brethren  shot  a  buffalo  which 
was  brought  into  camp  in  the  revenue  cutter.  The  meat 
is  said  to  be  good  and  the  fattest  we  have  had.  At  two 
we  continued  our  journey.  About  the  same  time  Porter 
and  Brown  returned  having  failed  to  catch  the  horse. 
After  traveling  about  half  a  mile  we  crossed  a  very  bad 
slough,  and  beyond  that  for  a  mile  the  ground  was  wet 
and -soft.  The  teams  began  to  give  out,  and  at  half  past 
four  o'clock,  the  President  ordered  the  wagons  to  strike 
for  the  timber  which  was  a  little  out  of  our  course,  but 
necessary  to  favor  the  teams  and  obtain  wood  and  water. 
We  arrived  near  the  timber  and  camped  at  four  fifty,  hav- 
ing traveled  since  my  last  guide  post  a  little  over  nine 
and  three-fourths  miles,  the  last  two  miles  the  ground 
being  dry  and  good  traveling.  Some  of  the  hunters  killed  a 
deer  and  we  had  some  vension  for  supper.  Our  course 
a  little  north  of  west.  Light  wind  from  northwest.  The 


142  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

day  warm  and  pleasant.  We  have  a  little  better  feed  for 
cattle,  and  on  the  island  plenty  of  brouse  for  horses,  better 
timber  than  we  have  had  for  some  time  past.  It  appears 
plain  that  vast  herds  of  buffalo  have  wintered  here,  but 
have  mostly  left  and  gone  eastward  sometime  ago,  and 
we  have  the  full  growth  of  this  year's  grass  which  is 
small  indeed.  The  grass  evidently  springs  later  the  farther 
west  we  travel,  and  nature  seems  to  have  taught  the 
wild  cattle  this  lesson,  hence  their  eastward  progress. 
There  are  some  scattering  herds  of  buffalo  around,  but 
not  nearly  so  numerous  as  they  were  some  thirty  miles 
back.  The  face  of  the  country  here  is  indeed  bautiful, 
the  soil  rich  on  the  bottoms,  the  ragged  bluffs  on  each 
side  of  the  river  have  a  splendid  appearance,  and  at  about 
ten  miles  distance,  west  of  where  we  now  are,  they  seem 
to  circle  around  until  they  form  a  junction.  It  appars 
evident  also,  that  we  are  above  the  junction  of  the  north 
and  south  forks  of  the  Platte,  the  north  fork  running 
nearly  northwest  and  the  south  fork  southwest.  Brother 
Woolsey  says  these  are  the  forks  in  reality,  but  are  con- 
nected some  miles  higher  up  by  a  slough,  and  consequently 
the  land  between  is  set  down  by  travelers  as  the  main 
land  rather  than  as  an  island. 

TUESDAY,  HTH.  The  morning  cold.  Wind  east; 
camp  well.  At  7:00  a.  m.  went  with  a  number  of  the 
brethren  who  were  going  to  dig  some  wolves  out  of  a 
hole  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  camp.  They  dug 
out  four  and  brought  them  alive  to  camp.  They  are 
probably  six  or  eight  weeks  old  and  about  the  size  of 
an  English  hare,  very  vicious.  At  half  past  nine  the 
camp  moved  onward  over  a  very  nice  level,  dry  prairie 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  143 

for  five  miles.  .Amongst  the  timber  on  the  island  could 
l)e  seen  many  small  cedar  trees.  At  the  end  of  five 
miles,  we  had  to  pass  over  a  small  ridge  of  low,  sandy 
bluffs,  which  extended  to  the  river.  After  passing  nearly 
over  the  bluffs  we  stopped  half  an  hour  to  water  the 
teams  and  eat  a  little  dinner,  then  proceeded  on  three 
miles  farther  and  passed  over  a  creek  of  clear  water, 
but  this  could  not  be  very  good  in  consequence  of  so 
many  dead  buffalo  lying  in  it.  We  proceeded  on  half 
a  mile,  and  finding  tolerably  good  feed,  stopped  for  the 
night,  having  traveled  eight  and  half  miles  today. 
Weather  fine,  wind  south  and  southeast;  course  a  little 
west  or  northwest.  We  have  seen  few  buffalo  today, 
but  there  are  signs  of  thousands  having  wintered  in  the 
neighborhood.  The  country  looks  beautiful,  soil  rich, 
only  lacking  timber.  After  the  camp  was  formed,  it 
being  half  a  mile  to  water,  the  brethren  dug  two  wells, 
and  about  four  feet  deep  found  plenty  of  good  water. 
One  of  the  wells  is  reported  to  run  a  pail  full  a  minute. 
Brother  Appleton  Harmon  is  working  at  the  machinery 
for  the  wagon  to  tell  the  distance  we  travel  and  expects 
to  have  it  in  operation  tomorrow,  which  will  save  me 
the  trouble  of  counting,  as  I  have  done,  during  the  last 
four  days.  Took  supper  on  some  duck  presented  to 
Elder  Kimball  by  George  Billings. 

WEDNESDAY,  12Tir.  Morning  cool,  weather  fine. 
Brother  Appleton  Harmon  has  completed  the  machinery 
on  the  wagon  so  far  that  I  shall  only  have  to  count  the 
number  of  miles,  instead  of  the  revolution  of  the  wagon 
wheel.  We  started  at  9:10,  the  first  mile  pretty  soft, 
the  rest  tolerably  hard  and  very  good  traveling.  We 


144  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

have  passed  over  vast  beds  of  salt,  or  rather  dust  with 
a  salt  taste.  It  looks  something  like  dirty  flour.  Trav- 
eled eight  miles  in  four  hours  and  two  minutes,  and 
stopped  at  12 :48  to  feed,  nearly  opposite  two  small 
islands.  The  feed  tolerably  good.  Our  course  north- 
west. Considerable  strong  wind  from  southeast  cov- 
ering everything  in  the  wagons  with  dust  and  sand.  No 
timber  on  the  bank  of  the  river  and  but  little  on  the 
islands.  The  hunters  report  that  they  have  seen  many 
dead  buffalo  between  here  and  the  bluff  with  the  hides 
off  and  tongues  taken  out,  a  strong  proof  that  Indians 
have  been  here  very  recently,  as  the  flesh  looks  fresh 
and  lately  killed.  The  range  of  bluffs  on  each  side  the 
river  extend  much  farther  apart,  and  near  the  foot  of 
the  south  range  can  be  seen  timber  scattering  along, 
which  is  an  evidence  that  the  south  fork  ranges  in  that 
direction,  although  some  are  sanguine  that  we  have  not 
yet  arrived  at  the  junction. 

At  half  past  three  we  moved  on  again  and  trav- 
eled four  miles,  camped  at  a  quarter  to  six  near  a  bunch 
of  small  islands,  and  a  kind  of  bayou  projecting  from 
the  river.  Our  course  this  afternoon  a  little  south  of 
west,  having  come  around  a  considerble  bend  in  the 
river.  The  land  good  and  good  traveling.  Wind 
Southeast.  Several  of  the  brethren  caught  a  number 
of  small  fish  in  the  bayou  or  lake.  The  feed  here  is 
rather  scanty.  Heavy  clouds  are  rising  in  the  west  and 
northwest,  and  a  fair  prospect  for  some  rain  which  is 
much  needed.  It  is  now  certain  that  we  are  about  four- 
teen and  a  half  miles  above  the  junction  of  the  north 
and  south  forks  of  the  Platte,  and  although  we  have 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  145 

to  make  a  new  road  all  the  way,  we  find  no  obstacles  so 
far.  Brother  Woodruff  reports  that  he  has  been  be- 
yond the  bluffs  north  of  the  camp  and  saw  upwards 
of  200  wickeups  where  the  Indians  have  camped  very 
recently. 

He  found  a  cured  buffalo  skin  and  some  pieces  of 
other  skins  also.  The  hunters  killed  a  two  year  old 
buffalo  and  brought  it  to  camp.  Brother  Orson  Pratt 
reports  that  when  we  were  five  and  a  half  miles  back, 
we  were  in  latitude  41°  9'  44". 

THURSDAY,  13TH.  This  morning-  cold  and  cloudy, 
cold  enough  for  overcoats  and  buffalo  robes.  The  buf- 
falo which  was  killed  yesterday  was  cut  up  and  divided 
this  morning  amongst  the  companies  of  tens.  Some 
feelings  are  manifest  this  morning  between  Brothers 
Thomas  Tanner  and  Aaron  Farr  on  account  of  the 
former  taking  the  latter  prisoner  and  putting  him  un- 
der a  guard  part  of  the  night.  Perhaps  Aaron  was  a 
little  out  of  order  in  conversing  loud  after  the  horn 
blew  for  prayers,  but  I  think  Brother  Tanner's  angry 
spirit  more  blameable.  At  9:00  we  moved  onward 
nearly  a  west  course  four  miles  and  at  1 1 :00  stopped 
to  feed  teams  at  a  spot  which  is  a  little  better  than  we 
generally  have.  The  wind  strong  from  north  and  north- 
east. 

At  half  past  twelve  we  proceeded  on  again  and 
traveled  till  four  o'clock,  distance  six  and  three  quarters 
miles.  At  this  distance  we  arrived  at  a  stream  about 
six  rods  wide  which  appears  to  come  from  the  north- 
east, the  water  in  appearance  like  the  Platte,  the  bottom 
of  the  river  quick  sand.  Water  in  the  middle  about  two 

11 


146  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

feet  deep ;  at  the  sides  quite  shoal.  Tt  appears  that 
travelers  have  never  discovered  this  stream  for  it  is  not 
noticed  in  any  works  that  we  have  seen.  We  crossed 
it  without  difficulty  and  camped  on  its  banks.  The 
weather  cloudy  and  very  cold,  with  a  strong  north  wind. 
Presidents  Young  and  Kiinball  rode  ahead  as  usual  to 
look  out  the  road.  They  report  that  the  bluffs  half  a 
mile  west  come  clear  to  the  river  and  are  considerably 
high.  They  found  several  ranges  of  them  and  finally 
found  a  valley  running  between  some  of  the  ranges 
through  which  we  can  pass  by  going  about  a  mile 
around  from  our  course.  This  stream  according  to 
measurement,  twenty-five  and  one  quarter  miles  above 
the  junction  of  the'  two  forks  and  341  miles  from  Winter 
Quarters,  by  estimation.  President  Young  named  it 
the  North  Bluff  Fork.  A  while  before  we  arrived  here 
four  of  the  brethren  went  to  chase  a  few  buffalo  which 
were  lying  down  at  the  foot  of  the  bluffs,  but  they  did 
not  get  any.  Presidents  Young  and  Kimball  sa\v  a  very 
large  rattlesnake  near  the  river.  Brother  Kimball  says 
the  largest  he  ever  saw  in  his  life.  I  saw  a  small  green 
snake  today,  very  pretty,  the  back  light  green  and  the 
belly  a  pale  yellow.  Presidents  Young  and  Kimball  suf- 
fered severely  with  cold  while  riding  over  the  bluffs  to 
look  for  a  road.  Had  to  use  buffalo  dung  for  cooking. 
there  being  no  timber. 

FRIDAY,  14-TH.  The  morning  cloudy  and  very  cold. 
In  the  west  could  occasionally  be  seen  streaks  of  light- 
ning and  distant  thunder  heard.  At  8 :00  a.  m.  the  dark- 
clouds  having  approached  nearer,  it  commenced  raining 
pretty  hard,  accompanied  by  lightning  and  thunder.  Tbe 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  147 

President  ordered  the  horses  got  up  just  before  the  rain 
commenced ;  and  after  the  storm  ceased,  we  started  on- 
ward at  a  quarter  past  ten.  After  traveling  about  a 
mile  we  passed  among  and  around  the  high  bluffs,  our 
course  lying  nearly  in  a  north  direction  for  some  time, 
then  turning  south  and  on  again  approaching  the  river, 
nearly  southeast.  When  within  about  three  quarters  of 
a  mile  from  the  river,  we  stopped  to  feed  at  twenty 
minutes  to  two.  having  traveled  six  and  a  quarter  miles. 
We  have  got  on  the  level  bottom  again  and  are  probably 
not  more  than  three  miles  in  a  direct  line  from  where 
\ve  started  this  morning.  Presidents  Young  and  Kim- 
ball  went  forward  to  point  out  the  route,  which  is  very 
good  to  travel,  although  considerably  uneven.  Brother 
Higbee  killed  an  antelope  and  wounded  another  which 
made  its  escape  while  he  was  loading  his  rifle.  We 
have  better  feed  here  than  we  have  had  for  some  time. 
We  had  a  little  more  rain  just  as  we  came  to  a  halt.  We 
have  not  had  much  wind  this  morning  but  it  is  now  in- 
creasing from  the  north.  It  is  somewhat  warmer  than 
this  morning.  The  atmosphere  cloudy  and  looks  as  if 
we  might  have  more  rain.  The  land  between  the  two 
forks  for  about  25  miles  is  perfectly  flat  and  very  level 
without  timber. 

The  bluffs  there  rise  suddenly,  apparently  in  a  line 
from  fork  to  fork.  There  are  many  buffalo  back  in 
the  valleys  between  the  bluffs,  and  although  there  is  no 
sign  of  the  prarie  having  been  burned,  it  is  evident  the 
buffalo  have  kept  it  eaten  clean  off,  but  have  moved 
back  and  east,  probably  since  the  Indians  have  been  hunt- 
ing them.  Some  of  the  brethren  have  discovered  fresh 


148  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

tracks  where  the  Indians  have  gone  up  this  north  stream, 
evidently  very  lately.  But  we  are  satisfied  the  Lord 
hears  the  prayers  of  his  servants  and  sends  them  out  of 
the  way  before  we  come  up  to  them.  At  three  o'clock 
we  proceeded  on  our  journey,  keeping  above  the  lower 
prairie,  which  appeared  soft  and  swampy.  Our  road  was 
very  uneven.  We  went  two  and  a  half  miles  and  at  half 
past  four  stopped  to  learn  the  report  of  those  gone  ahead 
to  look  out  the  road.  There  is  another  high  range  ot 
bluffs  about  half  a  mile  west  of  us,  extending  to  trie 
river.  Elder  Kimball  went  across  the  several  ranges 
of  bluffs  to  the  west  side,  and  hunted  for  a  road  in 
various  directions,  but  there  did  not  appear  to  be  any 
possibility  of  finding  a  road  between  the  bluffs,  with- 
out going  many  miles  around.  President  Young  and  he 
concluded  it  would  be  best  to  camp  where  the  wagons 
are  and  in  the  morning  cross  right  over  the  bluffs  by 
doubling  teams.  Accordingly  the  encampment  was 
formed  about  five-thirty,  the  train  having  traveled  eight 
and  three  quarters  miles  today.  Our  course  this  after- 
noon nearly  west,  wind  southeast.  The  feed  for  our 
teams  grows  much  better,  and  on  one  of  these  high 
sandy  bluffs  I  saw  a  large  bed  of  flowers,  not  unlike  the 
violet,  and  very  rich.  The  sand  on  the  bluffs  i^i  some 
places  looks  like  large  drifts  of  snow,  and  in  other  places 
seems  to  have  deep  chasms  as  if  wasted  by  heavy 
rains.  The  atmosphere  is  still  cloudy  but  not  so  cold 
as  it  has  been.  The  hunters  have  killed  two  buffalo, 
three  antelope  and  one  badger  during  the  day,  which 
will  be  very  acceptable.  It  was  dark  when  the  hunters 
returned  to  give  the  information.  The  revenue  cutter 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  149 

was  sent  after  the  meat  which  was  reported  to  be  a  mile 
and  a  half  distant.  It  was  late  when  they  returned. 
There  was  an  alarm  made  by  the  guard  in  the  nighi 
supposing  the  Indians  were  near.  The  camp  were 
aroused  to  secure  their  horses,  but  we  had  no  further 
trouble  about  them. 

I  discovered  that  Brother  Appleton  Harmon  is  try- 
ing to  have  it  understood  that  he  invented  the  machin- 
ery to  tell  the  distance  we  travel,  which  makes  me  think 
less  of  him  than  I  formerly  did.  He  is  not  the  inventor 
of  it  by  a  long  way,  but  he  has  made  the  machinery, 
after  being  told  how  to  do  it.  What  little  souls  work. 

SATURDAY,  15xH.  This  morning  is  very  cloudy  and 
very  cold,  more  like  a  January  morning  than  a  May 
morning.  The  wind  blows  strong  from  the  northeast. 
The  brethren  who  killed  the  buffalo  did  not  bring  it 
to  camp  last  night,  but  put  it  in  the  boat  and  left  it  till 
morning.  About  half  past  seven  they  brought  it  in  and 
divided  it  to  the  captains  of  ten.  At  eight  o'clock  it  com- 
menced raining  again  but  abated  a  little  before  nine.  At 
nine  o'clock  we  commenced  moving  and  after  traveling 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  began  to  ascend  the  sandy 
bluffs.  It  commenced  raining  again  and  it  looks  like 
rain  for  all  day.  It  is  very  cold,  the  wind  continues 
strong.  The  road  was  much  of  a  zig  zag  over  the 
bluffs,  but  only  about  a  mile  before  we  descended  to 
the  bottom.  We  traveled  a  piece  farther  and  at  half 
past  ten  o'clock  it  was  considered  best  to  turn  out  the 
teams  until  it  ceases  raining,  after  traveling  two  and  a 
quarter  miles.  We  found  it  unnecessary  to  double  teams 
while  crossing  the  bluffs  and  we  got  over  without  dif- 


150  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

ficulty,  much  better  than  we  had  anticipated.  About 
noon  it  again  ceased  raining  and  the  signal  was  given 
to  harness  up  teams.  At  half  past  twelve  we  proceeded 
and  traveled  till  a  quarter  to  three,  distance  four  and  a 
half  miles,  then  formed  the  encamipmient  in  a  circle 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  river.  The  road  has 
been  level  but  soft  and  wet,  however  not  bad  traveling. 
The  bluffs  are  about  half  a  mile  to  the  north  and  sev- 
eral herds  of  buffalo  grazing  on  them.  Some  of  the 
hunters  are  gone  to  try  and  get  some  meat.  The  wind 
still  keeps  up,  and  is  cold,  damp  and  uncomfortable. 
The  feed  appears  better  here  than  we  have  had  for  some 
days,  and  the  cattle  soon  fill  themselves  which  is  a  com- 
fort and  blessing  to  the  camp.  Some  of  the  brethren 
have  been  lucky  enough  to  pick  up  a  few  sticks  and  dead 
wood  but  our  chief  dependence  for  fuel  is  dry  buffalo 
dung  which  abounds  everywhere,  but  the  rain  has  in- 
jured it  some  for  burning.  About  two  miles  back  we 
passed  a  place  where  the  Indians  have  lately  camped 
during  their  hunt.  It  is  plain  that  whole  families  are 
amongst  their  number  as  the  foot  prints  and  moccasins 
of  children  have  several  times  been  seen.  They  evi- 
dently make  use  of  the  buffalo  dung  for  fuel,  and  for 
seats,  they  dig  up  sods  and  lay  them  in  a  circle  around 
their  fire  which  is  in  the  center.  We  have  passed  a 
number  of  these  little  temporary  camping  snots  this 
afternoon.  The  reason  why  we  did  not  travel  farther 
was  that  Elder  Kimball  being  gone  ahead  to  look  out 
the  road,  etc.,  he  found  as  he  came  near  the  next  bluffs 
that  the  feed  is  all  eaten  off  by  the  numerous  herds  of 
buffalo  and  found  also,  that  we  shall  have  to  travel 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  151 

over  the  bluffs  and  they  appear  wide  and  would  be  im- 
possible for  the  teams  to  get  over  them  tonight,  hence 
the  necessity  of  stopping  here  where  we  have  good  feed. 
The  soil  on  this  prairie  looks  good  and  rich  but  there  is 
no  timber.  In  fact  there  is  none  in  sight,  except  a 
small  grove  on  the  other  side  the  river  about  two  miles 
west  of  the  camp.  Late  at  night  Porter  Rockwell  came 
in  and  reported  that  he  killed  a  buffalo.  The  cutter  was 
sent  for  it  to  bring  it  to  camp.  Our  course  this  after- 
noon nearly  west. 

SUNDAY.  16TH.  Morning  fine,  but  chilly  and  cold. 
Wind  north.  Eric  Glines  killed  an  antelope  near  the 
camp  which  was  cut  up  and  distributed.  Soon  after 
breakfast.  President  Young,  Elders  Kimball,  Woodruff 
and  Benson  went  on  horseback  to  look  out  the  best  road 
over  the  bluffs.  They  returned  at  half  past  twelve  and 
reported  that  we  can  pass  through  a  valley  between  and 
around  the  bluffs,  which  will  be  about  four  miles  across 
them.  About  5  :00  p.  m.  several  buffalo  were  seen  mak- 
ing their  way  from  the  bluffs  towards  our  horses,  some 
of  which  were  very  near  them.  Brother  Eric  Glines 
started  out  with  the  intention  of  driving  the  buffalo 
away,  and  bringing  the  horses  nearer  camp.  When  he 
got  near,  the  buffalo  did  not  seem  much  disposed  to 
move  and  he  shot  at  one  of  them  and  wounded  him. 
He  moved  a  little  farther  and  Brother  Glines  followed 
him  and  shot  three  times  more  at  him.  The  buffalo  then 
ran  about  forty  rods,  fell,  and  soon  expired.  I  went  to 
look  at  him.  He  is  a  large  one,  judged  to  weigh  about 
700  pounds,  and  in  pretty  good  order.  I  left  the  breth- 
ren skinning  him  and  returned  to  camp  where  a  meet- 


152  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

ing  had  been  called  at  5:00  p.  m.,  and  the  brethren  ad- 
dressed by  Elders  Richards,  Markham,  Rockwood  and 
Kimball,  chiefly  on  the  subject  of  obeying  counsel,  and 
Elder  Kimball  remarked  in  regard  to  hunting  on  the 
Sabbath.  He  woud  not  do  it  even  in  case  of  necessity, 
but  he  did  not  feel  disposed  to  fin-d  fault  with  the  breth- 
ren. The  laws  and  regulations  for  the  camp  of  April 
18th  were  then  read  by  Brother  Bullock  and  the  meet- 
ing dismissed.  About  noon  today  Brother  Appleton 
Harmon  completed  the  machinery  on  the  wagon  called 
a  "roadometer"  by  adding  a  wheel  to  revolve  once  in 
ten  miles,  showing  each  mile  and  also  each  quarter  mile 
we  travel,  and  then  casing  the  whole  over  so  as  to  secure 
it  from  the  weather.  We  are  now  prepared  to  tell  ac- 
curately, the  distance  we  travel  from  day  to  day  which 
will  supercede-  the  idea  of  guessing,  and  be  a  satisfac- 
tion not  only  to  this  camp,  but  to  all  who  hereafter  travel 
this  way.  I  have  prepared  another  board  to  put  up  here 
on  which  the  distance  from  Winter  Quarters  is  marked 
at  356  3/4  miles.  I  have  also  written  on  it  that  the  last 
seventy  miles  are  measured,  and  we  shall  continue  to 
measure  and  put  up  guide  posts  as  often  as  circum- 
stances will  permit  through  the  journey.  The  whole 
machinery  consists  of  a  shaft  about  18  inches  long  placed 
on  gudgeons,  one  in  the  axle  tree  of  the  wagon,  near 
which  are  six  arms  placed  at  equal  distances  around 
it,  and  in  which  a  cog  works  which  is  fastened  on  the 
hub  of  the  wagon  wheel,  turning  the  shaft  once  round 
at  every  six  revolutions  of  the  wagon  wheel.  The  up- 
per gudgeon  plays  in  a  piece  of  wood  nailed  to  the 
wagon  box,  and  near  this  gudgeon  on  the  shaft  a  screw 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  153 

is  cut.  The  shaft  lays  at  an  angle  of  about  forty-five 
degrees.  In  this  screw,  a  wheel  of  sixty  cogs  works  on 
an  axle  fixed  in  the  side  of  the  wagon,  and  which  makes 
one  revolution  each  mile.  In  the  shaft  on  which  this 
wheel  runs,  four  cogs  are  cut  on  the  fore  part  which 
plays  in  another  wheel  of  forty  cogs  which  shows  the 
miles  and  quarters  to  ten  miles.  The  whole  is  cased 
over  and  occupies  a  space  of  about  18  inches  long,  15 
inches  high  and  3  inches  thick. 

After  the  meeting  was  dismissed,  the  cutter  was 
sent  to  fetch  the  meat  in,  killed  by  Brother  Glines.  They 
soon  returned  and  the  meat  was  distributed  as  usual. 
Presidents  Young  and  Kimball  have  walked  out  together 
towards  the  bluffs.  After  supper  Elder  Whjpple  made 
me  a  present  of  a  half  a  candle  made  from  buffalo  tal- 
low, by  the  light  of  which  I  continue  this  journal.  Al- 
though, as  may  be  expected,  the  buffalo  are  generally 
poorer  at  this  season  of  the  year,  yet  Brother  Whipple 
has  obtained  sufficient  to  make  two  candles  from  his 
portion  of  meat  received  yesterday  morning.  The  candle 
burns  very  clear  and  pleasant.  The  tallow  smells  sweet 
and  rich.  I  imagine  it  has  a  more  pleasant  smell  than 
the  tallow  of  domestic  cattle. 

MONDAY,  I/TH.  The  morning  very  cold  and  chilly, 
wind  northwest.  Dr.  Richards  left  another  letter  on 
the  camp  ground  for  the  benefit  of  the  next  company. 
The  letter  is  secured  from  the  weather  by  a  wooden 
case,  and  placed  so  that  the  brethren  can  hardly  miss 
finding  it. 

We  started  on  our  journey  at  8:13  a.  m.  After 
traveling  a  mile  and  a  half,  we  arrived  at  the  foot  of 


154  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

another  range  of  bluffs  which  extend  to  the  river,  and 
began  to  ascend  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  north  from 
the  river,  the  road  also  turning  to  the  north.  A  quarter 
of  a  mile  farther,  we  crossed  a  stream  of  spring  water 
about  three  feet  wide.  The  road  for  a  little  distance 
on  both  sides  the  stream  is  rough,  sandy  and  crooked. 
We  then  turned  westward,  and  passed  over  a  number  of 
bluffs  as  there  was  no  chance  to  go  around  them  with- 
out going  miles  out  of  our  course.  On  these  sandy 
bluffs,  there  are  very  many  small  lizards  about  four  or 
five  inches  long  from  nose  to  the  end  of  the  tail,  which 
is  an  inch  and  a  half  long.  The  body  looks  short  and 
chunky  and  is  of  a  light  grey  color  with  two  rows  of 
dark  brown  spots  on  each  side  of  the  body  which  make 
it  appear  striped.  The  head  is  shaped  something  like 
the  head  of  a  snake.  They  appear  perfectly  harmless 
and  are  pretty  in  appearance.  After  traveling  two  and  a 
quarter  miles  beyond  the  last  mentioned  stream,  we  ar- 
rived at  the  west  foot  of  the  bluffs.  The  last  part  of 
the  road  very  sandy  and  there  are  several  very  steep 
places  of  descent.  However  all  the  teams  got  safely 
over  without  difficulty.  At  the  west  foot  of  the  bluffs, 
there  appears  more  grass  than  anywhere  we  have  yet 
been,  although  the  buffalo  have  eaten  it  off  consider- 
ably. Within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  bluffs,  \ve 
crossed  two  small  streams  of  spring  water  and  at  a  mile 
from  the  foot  of  the  bluffs,  we  crossed  a  stream  of  spring 
water  about  four  feet  wide  with  a  very  rapid  current. 
The  whole  of  this  bottom  seems  full  of  springs  and  we 
have  to  keep  near  the  bluffs  to  make  a  good  road  to 
travel,  and  in  fact,  we  find  it  more  or  less  soft  and 


WILLIAM   CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  155 

springy  even  close  to  the  bluffs.  A  mile  and  a  quarter 
west  of  the  last  mentioned  spring  is  another  small  stream 
of  very  clear  spring  water.  The  others  are  rather  muddy 
by  running  over  sandy  land.  They  all  appear  to  have 
their  rise  in  the  bluffs  a  short  distance  from  our  road. 
At  11  :35  we  stopped  to  feed  having  traveled  this  morn- 
ing, six  and  three  quarters  miles.  Our  course  west, 
weather  fine,  warm,  and  little  wind.  While  we  were 
resting,  one  of  President  Young's  horses  (in  care  of 
Phineas)  mired  down  in  a  soft  slough.,  A  number  of 
men  soon  collected  and  with  a  rope  dragged  it  out, 
washed  and  rubbed  it,  and  all  was  well  again.  Latitude 
41°  12'  50". 

At  two  o'clock,  we  proceeded  onward.  After  trav- 
eling a  half  a  mile,  we  arrived  at  a  very  shoal  stream  of 
clear  water  about  thirty  feet  wide  but  not  over  three 
inches  deep  in  the  channel  which  is  about  three  feet 
wide.  We  forded  it  very  easily  and  then  passed  over 
a  short  range  of  low  sandy  bluffs  about  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  wide  ami  then  entered  on  level  prairie  again, 
but  we  found  it  very  soft  and  springy.  Within  two  and 
a  half  miles  from  the  last  mentioned  stream  we  passed 
two  others,  one  very  small,  the  other  about  four  feet 
wide.  They  both  doubtless  rise  from  springs  at  the  foot 
of  the  bluffs.  About  ten  minutes  after  three  o'clock, 
word  arrived  that  a  buffalo  was  killed  by  the  hunters 
about  a  mile  from  the  road.  Two  men  were  sent  to 
skin  and  dress  it.  About  the  same  time  the  revnue  cut- 
ter arrived  with  two  more  buffalo  one  said  to  have  been 
killed  by  Luke  Johnson  and  the  other  by  John  Brown, 
also  an  antelope  killed  by  Amasa  Lyman.  The  wagons 


156  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

halted  at  a  quarter  to  four,  took  the  meat  out  of  the  boat, 
which  immediately  returned  to  fetch  the  other  buffalo 
which  was  killed  by  Porter  Rockwell.  The  meat  was 
cut  in  quarters  and  put  into  the  wagons  and  at  half  past 
four  o'clock  we  again  moved  onward  and  traveled  till 
5 :50  p.  m.  and  camped  on  a  nice  dry  bottom  prairie 
where  the  grass  is  shorter  than  that  we  have  passed  all 
day.  We  traveled  this  afternoon  six  miles  and  during 
the  day  twelve  and  three  quarters,  about  a  west  course. 
We  are  some  distance  from  water  but  several  wells  were 
soon  dug  and  good  water  obtained  at  about  four  feet 
deep.  Soon  after  we  camped  the  boat  came  in  with 
the  other  buffalo  and  the  meat  was  all  distributed  equally 
around  the  camp,  but  it  appears  that  some  have  already 
got  more  than  they  need  and  feel  unwilling  to  take  a 
good  forequarter.  The  bluffs  on  the  opposite  side  the 
river  project  to  the  river  for  some  distance  opposite  this 
place.  Latitude  41°  13'  20". 

TUESDAY,  18TH.  The  morning  fine  and  very  pleas- 
ant. At  seven  o'clock  the  President  called  the  captains 
of  tens  to  his  wagons  and  gave  them  a  pretty  severe  lec- 
ture. He  referred  to  some  who  had  left  meat  on  the 
ground  and  would  not  use  it  because  it  was  not  hind 
quarter.  Some  would  murmur  because  a  fore  quarter 
of  meat  was  alloted  to  them,  etc.,  which  is  not  right, 
for  God  has  given  us  a  commandment  that  we  should 
not  waste  meat,  nor  take  life  unless  it  is  needful,  but 
he  can  see  a  disposition  in  this  camp  to  slaughter  every- 
thing before  them,  yea  if  all  the  buffalo  and  game  there 
is  on  our  route  were  brought  together  to  the  camp,  there 
are  some  who  would  never  cease  until  they  had  destroyed 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  157 

the  whole.  Some  men  will  shoot  as  much  as  thirty  times 
at  a  rabbit  if  they  did  not  kill  it,  and  are  continually 
wasting1  their  ammunition,  but  when  they  have  used  all 
they  have  got,  they  may  have  the  pleasure  of  carrying 
their  empty  guns  to  the  mountains  and  back,  for  he  will 
not  furnish  them.  We  have  now  meat  enough  to  last 
some  time  if  we  will  take  proper  care  of  it.  As  to  the 
horsemen,  there  are  none  with  the  exception  of  Broth- 
ers Kimball,  Woodruff  and  Benson,  that  ever  take  the 
trouble  to  look  out  a  good  road  for  the  wagons  but  all 
they  seem  to  care  about  is  to  wait  till  their  breakfast  is 
cooked  for  them,  and  when  they  have  eaten  it,  they 
mount  their  horses  and  scatter  away,  and  if  an  antelope 
comes  across  the  track,  the  whole  of  us  must  be  stopped 
perhaps  half  an  hour  while  they  try  to  creep  up  near 
enough  to  kill  it,  but  when  we  come  to  a  bad  place  on 
the  route,  all  the  interest  they  have  is  to  get  across  the 
best  they  can  and  leave  myself  and  one  or  two  others 
to  pick  out  a  crossing  place  and  guide  the  camp  all  the 
time.  Such  things  are  not  right,  and  he  wants  them  to 
cease  and  all  take  an  interest  in  the  welfare  of  the  camp, 
be  united,  and  receive  the  meat  as  a  blessing  from 
God  and  not  as  a  stink  offering  from  the  devil.  It  is  not 
necessary  to  preach  to  the  elders  in  this  camp,  they 
know  what  is  right  as  well  as  he  does,  and  he  will  not 
preach  to  them  all  the  time.  Let  the  captains  do  the 
best  they  know  how  and  teach  their  men  to  do  likewise. 
The  meeting  dispersed,  the  meat  was  taken  care  of  and 
at  a  quarter  past  eight  we  started  out  again,  and  trav- 
eled three  and  a  quarter  miles  nearly  a  west  course  over 
a  very  hard  prairie  and  good  traveling  and  then  arrived 


158  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

at  a  nice  stream,  Rattlesnake  creek,  about  twenty  or 
twenty-five  feet  wide,  a  foot  or  18  inches  deep  and  a 
very  strong  current.  This  stream  must  take  its  rise  some 
distance  back  in  the  bluffs  or  else  is  supplied  from  many 
strong  springs,  for  there  is  much  water  comes  clown  it. 
We  traveled  on  from  this  near  the  bank  of  the  river 
about  a  northwest  course  over  tolerably  rough  land  till 
11:10  and  then  stopped  to  feed  having  come  six  and  a 
half  miles  this  morning,  the  weather  very  hot.  Oppo- 
site the  stream  last  mentioned  on  the  south  side  the  river, 
are  several  pine  groves,  or  rather  cedar  groves.  There 
is  some  little  pine  wood,  such  as  knots  and  dead  branches 
that  can  be  picked  up  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  It  has 
floated  from  above.  This,  with  a  little  buffalo  chips, 
makes  a  good  fire  for  cooking.  Latitude  noon  41°  3' 
44".  Rattlesnake  creek  was  so  named  from  the  follow- 
ing incident :  President  Young,  as  he  rode  up  to  the 
banks  of  the  creek  discovered  that  his  horse  stepped 
within  a  foot  of  a  very  large  rattlesnake.  He  turned 
his  horse  away  without  harming  it.  Soon  afterward,  one 
of  the  brethren  came  up  on  foot  and  stepped  within  two 
feet  and  a  half  of  it.  It  immediately  coiled  up  and 
sprang  at  him  and  would  have  struck  him  (as  it  sprang 
2  1/2  feet)  had  he  not  jumped  to  one  side.  He  took  his 
rifle  and  shot  the  snake  dead. 

The  head  of  Cedar  Bluffs,  as  named  by  Fremont, 
is  three  miles  west  of  where  we  camped  last  night.  At 
1 :05  p.  m.  we  continued  our  journey.  Our  route  lay 
near  the  banks  of  the  river  which  seems  narrower  here. 
After  traveling  three  and  a  half  miles,  we  crossed  a 
stream  about  six  feet  wide,  and  three  quarters  of  a  mile 


\YILI.IAM:  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  159 

farther  another  stream  of  tolerably  deep,  clear  water 
about  five  feet  wide.  This  stream  is  very  crooked  and 
seems  to  run  from  the  bluffs  to  the  river  in  a  perfect 
serpentine  or  zig  zag  direction.  Soon  after  starting  this 
afternoon,  we  discovered  some  dog  towns,  the  grass 
eaten  perfectly  bare  all  around.  The  feed  is  growing  worse 
again,  evidently  eaten  up  by  the  buffalo.  At  noon,  a  heavy 
black  cloud  arose  in  the  west  and  we  had  a  little  rain,  ac- 
companied by  lightning  and  distant  thunder.  After  passing 
the  last  mentioned  creek  about  a  mile,  we  had  to  change 
our  course  to  nearly  northwest  on  account  of  a  bend  in 
the  river.  We  traveled  till  5 :30  and  formed  our  en- 
campment on  the  west  bank  of  a  running  stream  about 
eight  feet  wide  and  one  foot  deep  which  is  five  miles 
from  the  crooked  creek,  making  our  afternoon*  travel 
nine  and  a  quarter  miles  and  the  day's  travel  fifteen  and 
three  quarters.  The  bluffs  and  the  river  here  are  about 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  apart,  the  river  very  wide,  feed  poor, 
plenty  of  float  wood,  pine  and  cedar,  for  fuel.  The 
weather  calm  and  warm,  though  cloudy.  After  encamp- 
ment was  formed,  went  with  Elder  Orson  Pratt  to  Dr. 
Richards'  wagon  to  enter  into  arrangements  for  making 
a  map  of  our  route.  The  doctor  wants  me  to  do  it. 
assisted  by  Elder  Pratt's  observations.  He  handed  me 
Fremont's  map,  and  I  retired  to  my  wagon  to  commence 
operations,  but  soon  found  that  the  map  does  not  agree 
with  my  scale  nor  Elder  Pratt's  calculations.  I  then 
proposed  to  Elder  Pratt  to  wait  until  we  get  through  the 
journey  and  take  all  the  necessary  data  and  then  make 
a  new  one  instead  of  making  our  route  on  Fremont's. 
The  subject  is  left  here  till  morning.  After  supper  I  took 


160  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

my  candle  and  finished  this  day's  journal.  At  dark 
Colonel  Markham  called  the  camp  together  to  tell  the 
brethren  their  duty  in  regard  to  traveling,  guarding 
teams,  and  standing  guard  at  nights.  The  old  laws  of 
April  18th  were  talked  over  and  additional  by-laws 
added,  but  not  being  present  I  did  not  hear  them,  neither 
can  I  learn  anything  from  those  who  were  preset,  for 
they  all  say  that  there  were  so  many  little  matters 
touched  upon,  and  so  many  resolutions  passed  that  they 
remembered  only  one, — and  that  is,  when  any  man  goes 
out  of  the  sound  of  the  horn  to  fetch  in  his  team  and 
sees  aother  man's  horse  or  mule  or  ox,  a  little  beyond 
or  near  his,  he  shall  drive  it  also  to  camp,  and  if  he  neg- 
lect to  do  so,  he  shall  be  sent  back  to  do  it  even  if  it 
requires  an  escort  to  make  him.  About  seven  o'clock 
the  wind  shifted  around  to  the  north  and  blew  strong 
and  cold. 

WEDNESDAY,  19TH.  It  has  rained  a  little  most  of 
the  night  and  still  looks  gloomy,  cloudy  and  like  for  a 
i?iny  day.  Inasmuch  as  the  feed  is  not  good  here,  it 
was  thought  best  to  move  on  before  breakfast  a  few 
miles  and  seek  better  feed.  We  started  out  at  5 :05, 
the  second  division  having  the  right  to  lead,  but  a  part 
of  the  first  division  being  ready  a  little  before  all  the 
second  were  ready,  they  rushed  on  their  teams,  drove 
fast  and  those  of  the  second  division  behind  had  to  leave 
the  track  and  run  their  teams  to  take  their  places.  We 
traveled  two  and  three  quarters  miles,  our  course  eleven 
and  one  forth  degrees  north  of  west,  and  then  crossed 
a  stream  three  feet  wide,  and  one  quarter  of  a  mile 
farther  crossed  another  four  feet  wide.  Our  route  lay 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  161 

within  about  one  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  bluffs  and 
a^mile  from  the  river  which  takes  a  bend  south  from 
where  we  camped  last  night  and  runs  close  to  the  bluffs 
on  the  south  side.    We  then  turned  our  course  to  a  little 
west  of  northwest  as  the  river  bends  again  to  the  bluffs 
on  this  side,  and  traveled  a  quarter  of  a  mile  farther  and 
halted  for  breakfast  at  6:20,  having  traveled  three  and 
•a   quarter   miles.     The   main   body   of   the   camp   have 
stopped  a  quarter  of  a  mile  back,  being  three  miles  from 
where   we   started  this   morning.     The   road   is   mostly 
sandy,  tall  grass  of  last  year's  growth.    The  two  streams 
we  passed  seem  to  form  many  ponds  of  clear  water  ex- 
tending at   short  distances   from   each   other   from  the 
bluffs  to  the  river.     Elder  Kimball  has  been  ahead  over 
the  bluffs  to  look  out  the  road.     It  continues  to  rain  a 
little  occasionally  with  light  north  wind.     Elder  Kim- 
ball  found  that  the  bluffs  project  entirely  to  the  river  and 
are  very  sandy,  but  we  can  cross  them  without  going  out 
of  our  course.    At  twenty  minutes  to  nine,  we  proceeded 
onward  a  little  and  then  waited  till  the  rest  of  the  wagons 
came  up.     At  the  distance  of  nearly  a  mile  and  a  half, 
we  crossed  a  stream  about  twenty  feet  wide,  not  very 
deep,  neither  very  good  to  cross,  and  exactly  at  the  dis- 
tance of  a  mile  and  a  half,  we  arrived  at  the  foot  of  the 
bluffs   and   began   to   ascend   without   doubling  teams. 
Some  of  the  teams  stuck  by,  but  by  the  assistance  of  the 
extra  men,  they  all  got  up.     The  bluffs  are  very  high, 
sandy  and  rough,  and  the  sand  cuts  down  considerably, 
making  it  heavy  on  teams.    These  bluffs  are  three  quar- 
ters of  a  mile  from  the  east  foot  to  the  west  foot  follow- 
ing our  trail  which  is  nearly  straight.    About  200  yards 
12 


162  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

from  the  west  foot  of  the  bluffs,  we  crossed  another 
stream  five  feet  wide.  It  has  rained  heavily  all  the  time 
since  we  started  after  breakfast  and  continues.  Conse- 
quently at  half  past  ten  the  camp  formed  into  platoons 
and  then  halted  to  wait  for  more  favorable  weather, 
having  traveled  six  miles  today  over  the  worst  road  we 
have  had  from  Winter  Quarters,  rendered  worse,  doubt- 
less, by  the  heavy  rains.  About  half  past  two  the  weather 
looked  a  little  more  favorable  and  orders  were  given  to 
move  on.  We  started  at  five  minutes  to  three,  about 
which  time  it  again  rained  heavily.  We  traveled  two 
miles  and  then  formed  our  encampment  in  a  semi-circle 
on  the  banks  of  the  river,  having  traveled  two  miles  and 
through  the  day,  eight  miles.  The  first  mile  this  evening 
was  over  very  soft  prairie,  the  last  hard  and  good.  The 
rain  still  continues  to  pour  down  heavily  and  this  has 
been  the  most  uncomfortable  day  we  have  had  and  the 
hardest  on  our  teams.  The  brethren,  however,  feel  well 
and  cheerful.  The  ox  teams  are  improving  in  their  con- 
dition, but  the  horses  do  not  stand  it  as  well.  The  stream 
at  the  east  foot  of  the  last  mentioned  bluffs  was  named 
Wolf  creek  from  the  following  circumstance :  When 
Elder  Kimball  went  ahead  this  morning  to  search  out  a 
road,  he  went  up  the  creek  about  a  mile  and  around  over 
the  bluffs  to  find,  if  possible,  a  better  road  than  the  one 
dose  to  the  river.  While  he  was  searching,  about  a  mile 
north  from  the  river  he  went  down  into  a  deep  holloxv 
surrounded  by  high  bluffs  and  as  he  was  riding  alony 
at  the  bottom,  he  turned  his  head  to  the  left  and  saw  two 
very  large  wolves  at  about  five  rods  distance  gazing  at 
him.  One  of  them  he  said  was  nearly  as  large  as  a  two 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  163 

year  old  steer.  When  he  saw  these  he  looked  around  on 
the  other  side  and  saw  several  others  about  the  same  dis- 
tance from  him,  very  large  ones,  and  all  gazing  fiercely 
at  him.  This  startled  him  considerably,  and  more  espe- 
cially when  he  reflected  that  he  had  no  arms.  He  made 
a  noise  to  try  to  scare  them  away  but  they  still  stood,  and 
he  concluded  to  move  away  as  soon  as  he  could.  They 
did  not  follow  him  and  he  saw  a  dead  carcass  near,  which 
satisfied  him  that  he  had  interrupted  their  repast.  On 
mentioning  this  circumstance  to  President  Young,  they 
named  the  creek  "Wolf  Creek."  He  traveled  back  and 
forth  over  ten  miles  searching  out  a  road  before  break- 
fast. He  also  went  out  again  afterwards  and  got  badly 
wet.  He  then  concluded  to  change  his  clothing  and  re- 
main in  his  wagon.  The  evening  is  very  cool  and  cloudy 
with  wind  from  the  northeast.  The  rain  had  ceased  about 
six  o'clock,  but  it  still  looks  stormy. 

THURSDAY,  20rH.  The  morning  fair,  but  cloudy, 
light  wind  from  northwest  and  cold.  At  7 :45  we  started 
out  again  but  had  not  traveled  over  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
before  the  roadometer  gave  way  on  account  of  the  rain 
yesterday  having  caused  the  wood  to  swell  and  stick  fast. 
One  of  the  cogs  in  the  small  wheel  broke.  We  stopped 
about  a  half  an  hour  and  Appleton  Harmon  took  it  to 
pieces  and  put  it  up  again  without  the  small  wheel.  I 
had  to  count  each  mile  after  this.  Three  quarters  of  a 
mile  from  where  we  camped,  we  crossed  a  creek  eight 
feet  wide  and  two  and  a  half  feet  deep.  We  then  changed 
our  course  to  about  southwest  a  mile  or  so  following  the 
banks  of  the  river,  as  the  ground  was  wet  and  swampy 
nearer  the  bluffs.  The  river  then  winds  around  about 


164  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

three  miles  in  a  bend  and  then  strikes  a  little  north  of 
west.  The  bluffs  on  the  north  appear  to  be  about  two 
miles  from  the  river.  We  traveled  till  11:15  and  then 
halted  to  feed,  having  traveled  seven  and  three  quarters 
miles  over  tolerably  good  road,  though  at  the  commence- 
ment somewhat  soft.  On  the  opposite  side  the  river,  the 
bluffs  project  near  its  banks.  They  are  rocky  and  al- 
most perpendicular,  beautified  for  miles  by  groves  of 
cedar.  Opposite  to  where  we  are  halted,  we  can  see  a 
ravine  running  up  the  bluffs  and  at  the  foot,  a  flat  bot- 
tom of  about  fifteen  acres.  At  the  farther  side  of  this 
bottom  is  a  grove  of  trees  not  yet  in  leaf.  Brother  Brown 
thinks  they  are  ash  and  that  the  place  is  what  is  called 
Ash  Hollow  and  on  Fremont's  map,  Ash  Creek.  We  all 
felt  anxious  to  ascertain  the  fact  whether  this  is  Ash 
Hollow  or  not,  for  if  it  is,  the  Oregon  trail  strikes  the 
river  at  this  place,  and  if  it  can  be  ascertained  that  such  is 
the  fact,  we  then  have  a  better  privilege  of  testing  Fre- 
mont's distances  to  Laramie.  We  have  already  discov- 
ered that  his  map  is  not  altogether  correct  in  several  re- 
spects, and  particularly  in  showing  the  windings  of  the 
river  and  the  distance  of  the  bluffs  from* it.  I  suggested 
the  propriety  of  some  persons  going  over  in  the  boat  and 
Brother  John  Brown  suggested  it  to  President  Young. 
The  boat  was  soon  hauled  by  the  brethren  to  the  river, 
and  Orson  Pratt,  Amasa  Lyman,  Luke  Johnson  and  John 
Brown  started  to  row  over,  but  the  current  was  so  ex- 
ceedingly strong  the  oars  had  no  effect.  John  Brown 
then  jumped  into  the  river  which  was  about  two  and  a 
half  feet  deep  and  dragged  the  boat  over,  the  others  as- 
sisting with  the  oars.  After  some  hard  labor  they  ar- 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  165 

rived  on  the  opposite  shore  and  went  to  the  hollow.  They 
soon  found  the  Oregon  trail  and  ascertained  that  this  is 
Ash  Hollow,  Brother  Brown  having  traveled  on  that  road 
to  near  Laramie  last  season  with  the  Mississippi  com- 
pany and  knew  the  place  perfectly  well.  They  gathered 
some  branches  of  wild  cheery  in  full  bloom,  rambled  over 
the  place  a  little  while  and  then  returned  to  camp.  About 
the  same  time  the  camp  prepared  to  pursue  their  journey. 
The  brethren  arrived  and  made  their  report,  and  at  1 :45 
p.  m.  we  proceeded  onward.  From  the  appearance  of  the 
bluffs  ahead,  our  course  this  afternoon  will  be  west  and 
northwest.  A  light  breeze  from  northwest.  Soon  after 
we  started,  one  of  the  brethren  killed  a  large  rattlesnake 
within  a  rod  of  the  road  made  by  the  wagons  and  on  the 
side  where  the  cows  travel.  He  killed  it  to  prevent  its 
injuring  the  cows  and  threw  it  away  from  the  road.  In 
the  river  one  and  a  quarter  miles  above  Ash  Hollow,  there 
are  several  small  islands  on  which  grow  many  trees  of 
cedar.  One  of  these  islands  is  perfectly  green  over  with 
cedar  and  looks  beautiful.  The  bluffs  also  on  the  south 
side  the  river  continue  to  be  lined  with  cedar  apparently 
for  two  miles  yet  and  are  very  high  and  almost  perpen- 
dicular, running  pretty  close  to  the  river.  On  this  side 
the  river,  the  bluffs  seem  to  bear  farther  to  the  north, 
being  apparently  about  three  miles  from  the  river,  and  a 
few  miles  farther  west  they  are  as  much  as  five  miles 
from  the  river.  After  traveling  three  and  a  quarter  miles 
from  the  noon  stop,  we  crossed  a  tributary  stream  run- 
ning into  the  Platte,  in  a  very  crooked  direction,  being 
from  four  to  eight  rods  wide  and  two  and  a  half  feet  deep 
Tio^t  of  the  way  across,  the  bottom  quick  sand,  current 


166  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

rapid  and  water  of  sandy  color  like  the  Platte.  Some 
had  to  double  teams  to  get  over,  but  all  got  over  safely. 
We  proceeded  on  about  four  miles  farther  and  found  that 
the  river  bends  considerably  to  the  noith.  The  bluifs  also 
bend  to  the  south,  so  that  the  low  bluffs  in  front  almost 
reach  the  banks  only  barely  leaving  room  for  a  road.  We 
went  a  little  farther  and  camped  for  the  night  at  half  past 
five,  having  traveled  this  afternoon  eight  miles,  making 
fifteen  and  three  quarters  miles  during  the  day.  Elder 
Kimball  and  several  others  went  forward  on  horses  to 
pick  out  our  road  as  usual.  I  have  seen  several  kinds  of 
herbs  growing  today  which  appear  new  to  me.  One  looks 
like  penny  royal,  smells  almost  like  it,  but  tastes  hot  and 
like  the  oil  of  cloves.  Elder  Kimball  and  others  saw  a 
very  large  wolf  about  half  a  mile  west,  and  he  appeared  to 
be  following  them  to  camp.  They  turned  and  rode  up  to 
him  and  round  him,  struck  their  pistols  at  him,  but  they 
did  not  go  off,  being  damp.  He  finally  made  his  escape. 
The  large  stream  we  crossed  this  afternoon  is  named 
Castle  Creek  from  the  bluffs  on  the  opposite  side  which 
much  resemble  the  rock  on  which  Lancaster  Castle  is 
built.  The  bluffs  are  named  Castle  Bluffs.  We  had  a 
light  shower  this  afternoon,  but  the  evening  is  fine  though 
very  cool. 

FRIDAY,  21sT.  The  morning  very  fine  and  pleasant 
though  tolerably  cold.  I  put  up  a  guide  board  at  this 
place  with  the  following  inscriptions  on  it:  "From  Winter 
Quarters  409  miles.  From  the  junction  of  the  North 
and  South  Forks,  93  1/4  miles.  From  Cedar  Bluffs, 
south  side  the  river,  36  1/2  miles.  Ash  Hollow,  south 
side  the  river,  8  miles.  Camp  of  Pioneers  May  21,  1847. 


WILLIAM   CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  167 

According  to  Fremont,  this  place  is  132  miles  from  Lara- 
mie.  N.  B.  The  bluffs  opposite  are  named  Castle  Bluffs." 
At  7:35  we  continued  our  journey.  We  found  the  prai- 
rie tolerably  wet,  many  ponds  of  water  standing  which 
must  have  been  caused  by  a  heavy  fall  of  rain,  much  more 
heavy  than  we  had  back.  However,  it  was  not  very  bad 
traveling.  We  made  a  pretty  straight  road  this  morning 
at  about  the  distance  of  a  mile  from  the  river.  The  bluffs 
on  the  north  appear  to  be  five  miles  or  over  from  our 
road.  At  11:15  we  halted  for  dinner,  having  traveled 
nearly  seven  and  three  quarters  miles,  course  north  of 
northwest,  very  warm  and  no  wind.  Presidents  Young 
and  Kimball  rode  forward  to  pick  the  road,  and  near  this 
place  they  saw  a  nest  of  wolves,  caught  and  killed  two 
with  sticks.  Four  or  five  others  escaped  to  their  hole. 
At  half  past  one  we  proceeded  onward  and  found  the 
prairie  wet,  and  grass  high  of  last  year's  growth.  After 
traveling  four  and  three  quarters  miles  we  arrived  at  a 
range  of  low  bluffs  projecting  to  the  river,  which  at  this 
place  bends  to  the  north.  There  is,  however,  a  bottom  of 
about  a  rod  wide  between  the  bluffs  and  the  river,  but  as 
it  is  wet  and  soft,  it  was  preferred  to  cross  over  the  bluffs 
by  bending  a  little  more  to  the  north.  We  traveled  on  the 
bluffs  a  little  over  a  quarter  of  a  mile  and  then  turned  on 
the  bottom  again.  The  bluffs  are  low  and  almost  as  level 
as  the  bottom.  After  we  crossed  the  bluffs  we  found  the 
road  better.  We  saw  about  a  mile  this  side  of  the  foot 
of  the  bluffs,  a  very  large  bone  almost  petrified  into  stone. 
Most  of  the  brethren  believe  it  to  be  the  shoulder  bone  of 
a  mammoth,  and  is  very  large  indeed.  About  this  time 
a  badger  was  brought  to  the  wagons  which  Brother 


168  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

Woodruff  had  killed.  As  I  was  walking  along  and  look- 
ing over  the  river,  I  heard  a  rattlesnake,  and  looking  down 
saw  that  I  had  stepped  within  a  foot  of  it.  It  rattled 
hard  but  seemed  to  make  away.  We  threw  it  away  from 
the  track  without  killing  it.  At  five  o'clock  Elder  Kim- 
ball  rode  up  and  stopped  the  forward  teams  till  the  last 
ones  got  nearer  saying  that  some  Indians  had  come  down 
from  the  bluffs  to  the  brethren  ahead.  When  the  rest 
of  the  wagons  came  up  we  moved  on  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
farther  and  at  half  past  five  formed  our  encampment  in  a 
circle  with  the  wagons  close  together  as  possible,  hav- 
ing traveled  seven  and  three  quarters  miles  this  afternoon, 
making  fifteen  and  a  half  through  the  day.  As  the  camp 
was  forming  the  two  Indians  came  nearer,  being  a  man 
and  his  squaw.  They  represented  by  signs  that  they  were 
Sioux  and  that  a  party  of  them  are  now  on  the  bluffs 
north  of  us  and  not  far  distant.  By  the  aid  of  glasses  we 
could  see  several  on  the  bluffs  with  their  ponies,  evidently 
watching  our  movements.  This  man  was  hunting  when 
first  seen  and  appeared  afraid  when  he  saw  the  brethren. 
The  squaw  fled  for  the  bluffs  as  fast  as  her  horse  could 
go,  but  by  signs  made  to  them  they  gathered  courage  and 
came  up.  President  Young  gave  orders  not  to  bring  them 
into  camp,  and  they  soon  rode  off  to  the  bluffs.  The 
man  has  got  a  good  cloth  coat  on  and  appears  well 
dressed.  The  horses  they  rode  are  said  to  be  work  horses 
which  makes  us  suspect  they  have  stolen  them  from  trav- 
elers. The  day  has  been  very  warm  and  some  of  the 
teams  gave  out.  We  can  see  some  timber  on  the  bluffs 
on  the  other  side  of  the  river  some  miles  ahead  which  is 
the  first  timber  we  have  seen  for  more  than  a  week,  ex- 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOUR>fAt.  169 

cept  some  small  cedar  and  the  timber  in  Ash  Hollow,  all 
on  the  south  side  the  river.  We  are  nearly  a  mile  from 
water  and  the  brethren  have  to  dig  wells  to  obtain  a  sup- 
ply for  cooking.  The  feed  here  is  very  poor,  not  much 
but  old  grass.  Our  course  this  afternoon  has  been  a  little 
north  of  west.  Lorenzo  Young  shot  two  very  large  ducks 
with  one  ball  and  brought  them  to  camp.  Elder  Kimball 
proposed  tonight  that  I  Should  leave  a  number  of  pages 
for  so  much  of  his  journal  as  I  am  behind  in  copying  and 
start  from  the  present  and  keep  it  up  daily.  He  furnished 
me  a  candle  and  I  wrote  the  journal  of  this  day's  travel 
by  can-die  light  in  his  journal,  leaving  fifty-six  pages 
blank.  The  evening  was  very  fine  and  pleasant.  The 
latitude  at  noon  halt  41°  24'  5". 

SATURDAY,  22ND.  Morning  beautiful,  no  wind  and 
warm.  We  have  not  been  disturbed  by  the  Indians ;  all 
is  peace  in  the  camp.  At  eight  o'clock  we  continued  our 
journey,  making  a  more  crooked  road  than  usual,  having 
to  bend  south  to  near  the  banks  of  the  river.  The  prairie 
somewhat  soft  and  a  little  uneven.  After  traveling  five 
and  a  half  miles  we  crossed  a  very  shoal  creek  about 
twenty  feet  wide.  The  bluffs  and  river  about  a  mile  apart, 
but  on  the  other  side,  the  bluffs  recede  two  miles  back 
from  the  river  and  have  lost  their  craggy  and  steep  ap- 
pearance, the  ascent  being  gradual,  while  on  this  side  they 
begin  to  be  rocky,  cragged  and  almost  perpendicular 
though  not  very  high.  We  traveled  till  half  past  eleven 
and  then  halted  for  noon,  having  traveled  seven  and  a 
quarter  miles,  the  road  on  this  side  the  creek  being  bet- 
ter. Our  course  about  west  of  northwest  with  a  light 
breeze  from  the  east.  Elder  Kimball  and  others  ahead  as 


170  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

usual.  The  creek  above  mentioned  was  named  Crab 
Creek  because  some  of  the  brethren  saw  a  very  large 
crab  in  it.  A  mile  east  of  this  creek  is  a  dry  creek,  down 
which,  from  appearances,  a  heavy  stream  runs  at  some 
seasons  of  the  year,  perhaps  during  heavy  storms.  The 
water  running  from  the  bluffs  swells  it  to  a  considerable 
height  and  it  is  certain  there  are  tremendous  storms  here. 
A  while  after  we  halted,  Porter  Rockwell  came  in  and 
said  he  had  been  on  the  high  bluff  about  a  mile  north- 
west of  us  and  had  seen  the  rock  called  Chimney  Rock 
which  appeared  a  long  distance  off.  We  have  been  in 
hopes  to  come  in  sight  of  it  today  and  feel  anxious  in 
order  to  ascertain  more  certainly  the  correctness  of  Fre- 
mont's distance.  In  order  to  satisfy  myself,  although  my 
feet  were  blistered  and  very  sore,  I  determined  to  take  my 
telescope  and  go  on  the  bluff  to  ascertain  for  myself 
whether  the  noted  rock  could  be  seen  or  not.  At  half 
past  twelve  I  started  out  alone.  I  found  the  distance  to 
the  foot  of  the  bluff  a  good  mile,  the  ascent  gradual. 
From  the  foot  the  bluff  looks  very  high  and  rough,  many 
huge  rocks  having  broken  from  the  summit  from  time  to 
time  and  rolled  down  a  long  distance.  I  found  the  ascent 
very  steep  and  lengthy  in  comparison  to  its  appearance 
from  camp.  When  I  arrived  on  the  top  I  found  a  nice 
slightly  arched  surface  of  about  a  quarter  of  an  acre  in 
extent,  but  barren  and  very  little  grass  on  it.  Huge 
comparatively  smooth  rocks  peeped  through  the  surface 
on  one  of  which  I  wrote  with  red  chalk:  "Wm.  Clayton, 
May  22,  1847."  On  the  highest  point  I  sat  down  and  took 
a  view  of  the  surrounding  country  which  is  magnificent 
indeed.  On  the  south  at  the  distance  of  two  miles  from 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  171 

the  river,  there  is  a  range  of  cedar  trees  on  the  bluffs 
which  very  much  resemble  some  of  the  parks  and  seats 
of  gentry  in  England.  East  I  could  see  where  we  camped 
last  night,  the  high  grass  still  burning.  Northeast, 
north,  and  northwest,  alternately,  appeared  high  swell- 
ing bluffs  and  valleys  as  far  as  the  eye  could  see  or  the 
glass  magnify.  West,  the  course  of  the  Platte  for  ten  or 
fifteen  miles  and  at  about  four  or  five  miles  distance,  a 
large  bend  to  the  north  brings  it  in  contact  with  the  bluffs 
on  this  side.  At  the  distance,  I  should  judge  of  about 
twenty  miles,  I  could  see  Chimney  Rock  very  plainly  with 
the  naked  eye,  which  from  here  very  much  resembles  the 
large  factory  chimneys  in  England,  although  I  could  not 
see  the  form  of  its  base.  The  rock  lay  about  due  west 
from  here.  After  gratifying  my  curiosity,  and  seeing 
the  men  collecting  their  teams  for  a  march,  I  descended 
on  the  west  side  of  the  bluff.  The  descent  at  this  point 
looks  more  alarming  than  on  the  other.  The  side  being 
very  steep  and  all  along  huge  rocks  standing  so  critically, 
that  to  all  appearance,  a  waft  of  wind  would  precipitate 
them  to  the  prairie  below  with  tremendous  force.  In  one 
place  in  particular,  a  ponderous  mass  of  rock  appears  to 
hang  from  the  edge  of  the  bluff  without  any  visible  means 
of  being  retained  in  its  position,  and  by  gazing  at  it  a  little 
while,  it  is  easy  to  imagine  you  can  see  it  move  and  ready 
to  overwhelm  you  instantly.  At  a  little  distance  from  the 
base  of  the  bluff,  I  turned  to  gaze  on  the  romantic  scenery 
above  and  was  struck  at  the  appearance  of  a  large  rock 
projecting  from  one  corner,  which  very  much  resembled  a 
frog's  head  of  immense  size  with  its  mouth  part  open.  The 
thought  was,  those  bluffs  ought  to  be  named  and  what 


172  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

name  more  appropriate  than  Frog's  Head  Bluffs.  After 
this  reflection,  I  walked  on  to  where  I  thought  the  wag- 
ons would  come  which  started  out  at  half  past  one.  After 
traveling  three  and  a  quarter  miles  we  crossed  a  dry  creek 
about  six  rods  wide,  and  a  quarter  of  a  mile  farther,  an- 
other about  five  feet  wide  and  a  half  a  mile  farther,  still 
another  about  six  rods  wide  on  an  average.  These  all 
appear  to  be  the  sources  of  heavy  streams  of  water  at 
some  seasons  of  the  year.  Soon  as  we  crossed  this  last 
one,  I  saw  Elder  Kimball  wave  his  hat  for  the  wagons  to 
turn  off  to  the  north  in  order  to  cross  the  bluffs  which 
struck  the  river  a  little  farther.  But  a  little  to  the  west 
was  a  very  high  ridge  and  I  concluded  to  walk  on  to  it. 
Found  it  to  be  a  perfect  ridge  of  gravel,  very  high  and 
rounding  on  the  top,  not  more  than  four  or  five  feet  wide 
and  from  north  to  south  about  150  feet  long.  Elder  Pratt 
names  this  Cobble  Hills,  the  gravel  or  cobbles  varying  in 
size  of  from  fifty  pounds  in  weight  to  the  smallest  pebble. 
At  the  north  foot  of  this  hill  is  what  might  be  named  a 
clay  bank,  being  composed  of  a  light  colored  kind  of  sandy 
clay  and  forms  a  kind  of  large  table.  A  little  distance 
farther,  we  crossed  another  dry  creek  about  eight  rods 
wide  and  then  ascended  the  bluffs.  The  ascent  is  pretty 
steep  for  nearly  half  a  mile,  but  hard  and  not  difficult  to 
travel.  The  wagon  had  to  wind  about  some  to  keep 
around  the  foot  of  the  bluffs,  crossing  the  dry  creek  three 
times  before  we  emerged  from  the  bluffs  to  the  banks  of 
the  river.  We  crossed  another  dry  creek  pretty  steep  on 
each  side  and  then  found  ourselves  once  more  on  the 
prairie  bottom.  The  bluffs  are  two  and  a  quarter  miles 
from  the  east  to  the  west  foot  following  our  trail.  The 


WILLIAM   CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  173 

wind  has  blown  from  the  southeast  all  day  until  lately, 
when  a  dead  calm  has  succeeded.  In  the  west  a  heavy 
thunder  cloud  has  been  gathering  for  two  hours  and  vivid 
streaks  of  lightning  observed  in  the  distance.  At  twenty 
minutes  to  five  the  wind  struck  suddenly  from  the  north- 
west, the  blackest  part  of  the  cloud  then  lying  in  that  di- 
rection. We  had  a  few  drops  of  rain  only.  Then  it 
seemed  to  turn  off  to  the  east.  The  scenery  after  this  was 
indeed  sublime,  the  sun  peering  out  from  under  the  heavy 
clouds  reflecting  long  rays  upwards  which  were  imitated 
in  the  east.  The  romantic  bluffs  on  the  north  and  the 
lightning  playing  in  the  southeast  all  tended  to  fill  my 
mind  with  pleasant  reflections,  on  the  goodness  and 
majesty  of  the  Creator  and  Governor  of  the  universe, 
and  the  beauty  of  the  works  of  his  hands.  At  5 :45  we 
formed  our  encampment  in  a  circle  within  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  of  the  banks  of  the  river,  having  traveled  this 
afternoon,  eight  and  a  quarter  miles  and  through  the 
day  fifteen  and  a  half,  making  the  distance  from  Winter 
Quarters  440  miles  in  five  weeks  and  three  and  a  half 
days.  The  feed  on  the  lower  bench  of  the  prairie  is  tol- 
erably good,  while  the  higher  land  is  quite  bare.  We 
have  noticed  today  a  great  many  petrified  bones,  some 
very  large.  All  are  turned  into  solid,  hard,  stone,  which 
proves  that  the  atmosphere  is  pure  and  the  country  would 
doubtless  be  healthy,  but  is  not  adapted  for  farming  pur- 
poses on  account  of  the  poor  sandy  soil  and  no  timber 
at  all  on  this  side  the  river.  I  have  noticed  a  variety  of 
shrubs,  plants  and  flowers  all  new  to  me  today,  many 
of  which  have  a  very  pleasant  smell  and  in  some  places 
the  air  appears  impregnated  with  the  rich  odors  arising 


174  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

from  them.  Among  the  rest  are  numerous  beds  of  the 
southern  wood.  There  are  also  vast  beds  of  flinty  peb- 
bles of  various  colors,  some  as  white  as  alabaster.  About 
6:30  I  observed  a  group  of  brethren  standing  together 
inside  the  camp.  I  went  up  and  saw  a  young  eagle 
which  had  been  taken  out  of  its  nest  on  one  of  these 
high  bluffs  by  George  R.  Grant  and  Orson  Whitney. 
Although  it  is  very  young  and  its  feathers  have  scarcely 
commenced  growing,  it  measures  from  the  tips  of  its 
wings  when  stretched,  forty-six  inches.  Its  head  is 
nearly  the  size  of  my  fist  and  looks  very  ferocious. 
After  this  I  went  with  John  Pack  and  Horace  Whitney 
to  the  bluffs.  On  our  way  we  saw  a  large  wolf  about 
as  large  as  the  largest  dog  in  camp.  He  was  within  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  from  camp.  After  traveling  about  a 
mile  we  arrived  at  the  foot  of  a  stupendous  mass  of 
rocks  almost  perpendicular,  with  only  one  place  where 
it  was  possible  to  ascend.  We  went  up  with  difficulty 
and  by  using  our  hands  and  knees,  gained  the  top.  We 
had  to  walk  over  a  little  space  which  was  only  about 
three  feet  wide  and  on  the  east  side  a  perpendicular  fall 
of  about  sixty  feet.  Although  from  the  camp  this  peak 
looks  only  large  enough  for  a  man  to  stand  upon  we 
found  it  large  enough  to  seat  comfortably  about  twenty 
persons.  The  top  is  composed  of  large  rocks  and  very 
uneven.  The  prairie  below  looks  a  long  distance  under 
foot  from  this  peak.  Descending  we  viewed  the  sur- 
rounding scenery  which  looks  more  like  the  ruins  of  an 
ancient  city  with  its  castles,  towers,  fortifications,  etc., 
on  all  sides,  and  a  dry  stream  coming  through  the  center. 
We  proceeded  to  the  next  high  rock  and  found  it  very 


\YII.UA.\L  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  175 

difficult  of  ascent.  The  top  is  nearly  level  and  very 
pleasant.  We  discovered  several  other  varieties  of  shrub- 
bery, all  smelling  pleasant  and  strong.  We  saw  that  a 
horse  has  sometime  stood  on  the  top,  but  how  he  got 
there,  we  could  not  easily  determine.  At  the  east  end 
there  is  a  cedar  tree  flat  on  the  top  and  on  the  undei- 
side  almost  looks  like  an  umbrella.  We  made  a  calcula- 
tion of  the  height  of  this  bluff  as  well  as  we  could  and 
concluded  it  must  be  at  least  200  feet  higher  than  the 
river.  The  surrounding  country  can  be  seen  for  many 
miles  from  its  summit,  ami  Chimney  Rock  shows  very 
plainly.  We  descended  at  the  east  end  and  arrived  in 
camp  at  dark  well  satisfied  with  our  journey.  Some 
of  the  brethren  have  discovered  a  cave  in  one  of  these 
bluffs,  and  one  went  into  it  a  little  distance,  but  it  beins 
very  dark  and  having  no  torch,  he  did  not  venture  far. 
Elder  Pratt  reports  that  he  saw  on  the  top  of  one  of  the 
bluffs,  a  hole  in  a  rock  15  inches  in  diameter  and  a  foot 
deep  with  five  inches  of  very  cold  good  water  in  it.  He 
supposed  it  to  be  a  spring.  Between  the  bluffs  they  also 
discovered  a  spring  of  pure  cold  water  of  a  very  good 
taste.  Dr.  Richards  names  these  bluffs  "Bluff  Ruins" 
from  their  appearance  being  that  of  the  ruins  of  castles, 
cities,  etc.  A  little  to  the  left  is  a  small  perpendicular 
rock  much  resembling  Chimney  Rock  but  smaller.  The 
whole  of  the  scenery  around  is  one  of  romantic  beauty 
which  cannot  be  described  with  either  pen  or  tongue. 
Last  night  a  large  black  dog,  half  wolf,  supposed  to  be- 
long to  the  Indians,  came  to  the  camp.  He  has  kept 
within  two  hundred  yards  of  the  wagons  all  day,  and 
has  followed  us  to  this  place.  There  have  been  many 


176  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

rattlesnakes  seen  today  and  six  or  seven  killed.  In  fact, 
this  place  seems  to  abound  with  them.  The  evening  was 
spent  very  joyfully  by  most  of  the  brethren,  it  be'ing  very 
pleasant  and  moonlight.  A  number  danced  till  the  bugle 
sounded  for  bed  time  at  nine  o'clock.  A  mock  trial  was 
also  prosecuted  in  the  case  of  the  camp  vs.  James  Daven- 
pot  for  blockading  the  highway  and  turning  ladies  out 
of  their  course.  Jackson  Redding  acted  as  the  presid- 
ing judge.  Elder  Whipple  attorney  for  defendant  and 
Luke  Johnson  attorney  for  the  people.  We  have  many 
such  trials  in  the  camp  wrhich  are  amusing  enough  and 
tend  among  other  things  to  pass  away  the  time  cheer- 
fully during  leisure  moments.  It  was  remarked  this 
evening  that  we  have  one  man  in  camp  who  is  entitled 
to  the  credit  of  being  more  even  tempered  than  any  of 
the  others,  and  that  is  Father  Chamberlain.  He  is  in- 
variably cross  and  quarrelsome,  but  the  brethren  all  take 
it  as  a  joke  and  he  makes  considerable  amusement  for 
the  camp.  Opposite  the  encampment  there  are  quite  a 
number  of  small  islands,  but  no  timber  on  any  of  them. 
SUNDAY,  23RD.  The  morning  very  fine  and  pleas- 
ant. Brother  Egan  commenced  washing  very  early  on 
the  banks  of  the  river.  He  kindly  volunteered  to  wash 
my  dirty  clothing  which  I  accepted  as  a  favor.  After 
breakfast  President  Young,  Elders  Kimball,  Richards, 
Pratt,  Woodruff,  Smith  and  Benson  and  Lyman  walked 
out  to  view  Bluff  Ruins  and  returned  at  half  past  eleven. 
A  while  ago  I  went  out  a  little  distance  to  view  an 
adder  which  George  Billings  had  discovered.  It  was  a 
dark  brown  color  about  18  inches  long  and  three  quarters 
of  an  inch  thick  through  the  body.  They  are  represented 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  177 

as  very  poisonous.  About  eleven  o'clock  Nathaniel 
Fairbanks  came  into  camp  having  been  bitten  in  the  leg 
by  a  rattlesnake.  He  went  on  the  bluffs  with  Aaron 
Farr  and  Brother  Rolf  and  as  they  jumped  off  from  the 
bluff,  the  snake  bit  him,  the  others  having  jumped  over 
him  farther.  He  said  that  in  two  minutes  after  he  was 
bitten  his  tongue  began  to  prick  and  feel  numb.  When 
he  got  to  camp  his  tongue  and  hands  pricked  and  felt 
numb  as  a  person  feels  their  feet  sometimes  when  they 
are  said  to  be  asleep.  The  brethren  immediately  applied 
some  tobacco  juice  and  leaves,  also  turpentine,  and  bound 
tobacco  on  his  leg  which  was  considerably  swollen.  We 
laid  hands  on  him  and  Luke  Johnson  administered  a 
dose  of  lobelia  in  number  six  after  he  had  taken  a  strong 
drink  of  alcohol  and  water.  The  lobelia  soon  vomitted 
him  powerfully.  He  complains  much  of  sickness  at  his 
stomach  and  dimness  in  his  eyes.  He  appears  to  be  in 
much  pain.  While  the  brethren  of  the  quorum  of  the 
twelve  were  on  one  of  the  high  detached  bluffs  they 
found  the  skeleton  of  a  buffalo's  head.  Brother  Wood- 
ruff wrote  the  names  of  all  the  quorum  of  the  twelve 
present  and  set  it  upon  the  southwest  corner  of  the  bluff. 
John  Brown  also  wrote  his  name  on  it.  Elder  Pratt 
took  the  altitude  of  the  bluff  and  found  it  to  be  235 
feet  above  the  surface  of  the  river.  He  did  not  cal- 
culate the  height  above  the  sea,  owing  to  the  state  of 
the  atmosphere.  He,  however,  predicted  wind  from  the 
same  cause.  At  twelve  o'clock  the  camp  was  called  to- 
gether for  meeting,  and  after  singing  and  praying  \ve 
were  addressed  by  Elder  Snow,  followed  by  President 
Young.  The  latter  said  there  were  many  items  of  doc- 
is 


178  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

trine  which  he  often  felt  like  teaching  to  the  brethren, 
but  as  to  administering-  sealing  ordinances,  etc.,  this  is 
no  time  or  place  for  them,  they  belong  to  the  house  of 
God  and  when  we  get  located  we  shall  have  an  opportun- 
ity to  build  a  house,  etc.  He  expressed  himself  satis- 
fied with  the  conduct  of  the  camp  in  general.  He  is 
pleased  to  see  so  much  union  and  disposition  to  obey 
council  among  the  brethren  and  hoped  and  prayed  that 
it  may  continue  and  increase.  He  wants  the  brethren 
to  seek  after  knowledge  and  be  faithful  to  acknowledge 
God  in  all  things  but  never  take  his  name  in  vain  nor 
use  profane  language^/  If  all  the  knowledge  in  this  camp 
were  put  together  and  brother  Joseph  were  here  in  our 
midst,  he  could  comprehend  the  whole  of  it  and  wind  it 
around  his  little  finger/  And  then  think  of  the  knowledge 
of  angels,  and  abover  that,  the  knowledge  of  the  Lord. 
There  is  much  for  us  to  learn  and  a  faithful  man  who 
desires  eternal  glory  will  seek  after  knowledge  all  the 
time  and  his  ideas  never  suffered  to  rust  but  are  always 
bright.  He  will  not  throw  away  the  knowledge  of  small 
things  because  they  are  familiar,  but  grasp  all  he  can  and 
keep  doing  so  and  by  retaining  many  small  things  he 
will  thus  gain  a  large  pile,  etc.  He  expressed  his  feel- 
ings warmly  towards  all  the  brethren  and  prayed  them 
to  be  faithful,  diligent  and  upright,  for  we  are  now 
sowing  seed,  the  fruit  of  which  will  be  plucked  in  after 
days  whether  good  or  bad.  G.  A.  Smith  made  a  few 
remarks,  also  several  others  of  the  brethren.  The  presi- 
dent then  stated  that  on  Sunday  next  he  wants  the  breth- 
ren to  understand  that  there  will  be  meeting  at  eleven 
o'clock  and  the  sacrament  administered,  and  he  wants 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  179 

the  brethren  to  attend,  all  that  can,  and  not  ramble  off 
and  fatigue  themselves  but  use  the  Sabbath  as  a  day 
of  rest.  He  enjoined  it  upon  Bishops  T.  Lewis,  S. 
Roundy,  J.  S.  Higbee  and  A.  Everett  to  see  that  the 
proper  necessities  were  prepared  for  the  sacrament.  The 
meeting  was  then  dismissed.  A  while  after  meeting-  I 
walked  out  with  Elder  Kimball  a  piece  from  the  camp. 
\Ve  sat  down  and  I  read  to  him,  my  journal  of  the  last 
four  days  with  which  he  seemed  well  pleased.  We  then 
knelt  down  together  and  poured  out  our  souls  to  God 
for  ourselves,  the  camp  and  our  dear  families  in  Winter 
Quarters.  While  we  were  engaged  in  prayer  the  wind 
rose  suddenly  from  the  northwest,  a  heavy  cloud  having 
been  gathering  from  the  west  all  the  afternoon.  A  sud- 
den gust  struck  Elder  Kimball's  hat  and  carried  it  off. 
After  we  got  through,  his  hat  was  nowhere  in  sight,  but 
following  the  direction  of  the  wind  we  soon  saw  it  at 
a  distance  on  the  bottom  of  the  prairie  still  flying  swiftly. 
We  both  ran  and  chased  it  about  three  quarters  of  .1 
mile  and  caught  it  a  little  from  the  river.  While  we  were 
out  together  I  remarked  that  the  buffalo  gnat  had  bitten 
us  very  severely.  Elder  Kimball  said  they  bit  him  very 
badly  last  evening.  Their  bite  is  very  poisonous,  and 
although  they  are  extremely  small,  they  punish  a  person 
very  much  with  an  itching,  aching  pain  like  a  mosquitoe 
bite.  About  five  o'clock  the  wind  blew  a  perfect  gale 
and  continued  till  seven  when  it  commenced  to  rain  very 
heavily,  large  drops  descending,  accompanied  with  hail, 
which  however,  did  not  continue  very  long  but  the  wind 
continued  nearly  all  night.  The  lightning  and  thunder 
continued  some  time  but  not  very  severe.  We  saw  the 


180  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

necessity  of  having  good  stout  bows  to  our  wagons,  and 
the  covers  well  fastened  down,  for  the  very  stoutest 
seemed  in  danger  of  being  torn  to  pieces  and  the  wagons 
blown  over.  When  the  wind  commenced  blowing  so 
strongly  it  turned  very  cold  and  long  before  dark  I  went 
to  bed  to  keep  warm.  Brother  Fairbanks  seems  consider- 
ably better.  This  evening  President  Young,  Kimball  and 
Benson  laid  hands  on  him  and  he  seemed  much  better 
afterwards. 

MONDAY,  24iH.  The  morning  very  cold  indeed, 
strong  wind  from  northwest.  At  8 :25  we  continued  our 
journey  and  traveled  over  level  prairie  ten  miles,  then 
halted  to  feed  at  12:45.  The  bluffs  on  the  north  about 
two  miles  from  us  and  the  river  one  mile.  About  noon 
the  weather  began  to  moderate  and  grow  warmer.  While 
we  were  resting  two  Indians  came  to  camp,  their  ob- 
ject evidently  being  to  get  the  dog  which  has  followed 
us  to  this  place.  They  tarried  a  little  while  and  then 
went  away  taking  the  dog  with  them.  At  3  :00  p.  m.  we 
again  proceeded  and  traveled  till  6:00  p.  m.,  distance  six 
and  a  half  miles,  during  the  day  16  1/2.  Several  of  the 
horse  teams  gave  out  and  they  are  evidently  failing  but 
the  oxen  are  gaining  daily.  The  mules  stand  the  journey 
well  and  in  fact,  all  the  teams  considering  the  scarcity  of 
grass.  About  5  :30  we  discovered  a  party  of  Indians  on 
the  opposite  side  the  river  moving  west.  When  \ve 
formed  our  encampment  they  crossed  over  the  river. 
Some  of  the  brethren  went  to  meet  them  carrying  a  white 
flag  with  them.  When  the  Indians  saw  the  flag,  some 
of  them  began  to  sing,  and  their  chief  held  up  a  U.  S. 
flag.  It  was  soon  ascertained  that  their  object  was  to 
obtain  something  to  eat.  A  number  of  them  came  to  the 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  181 

camp  and  were  conducted  around  by  Colonels  Mark- 
ham  and  Rockwood.  They  were  shown  a  six  and  fifteen 
shooter  also  the  cannon  and  the  gunners  went  through 
the  evolutions  a  number  of  times  which  seemed  to  please 
them  much.  They  are  all  well  dressed  and  very  noble 
looking,  some  having  good  clean  blankets,  others  nice 
robes  artfully  ornamented  with  beads  and  paintings.  All 
had  many  ornaments  on  their  clothing  and  ears,  some 
had  nice  painted  shells  suspended  from  the  ear.  All  ap- 
peared to  be  well  armed  with  muskets.  Their  moccasins 
were  indeed  clean  and  beautiful.  One  had  a  pair  of  moc- 
casins of  a  clear  white,  ornamented  with  beads,  etc. 
They  fit  very  tight  to  the  foot.  For  cleanness  and  neat- 
ness, they  will  vie  with  the  most  tasteful  whites.  They 
are  thirty-five  in  number,  about  half  squaws  and  chil- 
dren. They  are  Sioux  and  have  two  recommends  certi- 
fying as  to  their  friendship,  etc.  The  brethren  contri- 
buted something  to  eat  which  was  sent  to  them.  Our 
course  today  has  been  nearly  west,  with  a  cool  wind.  The 
evening  fine  but  cold  enough  to  freeze  clothing  stiff 
when  laid  on  the  grass  to  dry.  Elder  Kimball  has 
been  quite  unwell  all  day  and  mostly  kept  to  his  wagon. 
Opposite  the  camp  on  the  south  side  the  river  is  a  very 
large  rock  very  much  resembling  a  castle  of  four  stories 
high,  but  in  a  state  of  ruin.  A  little  to  the  east  a  rock 
stands  which  looks  like  a  fragment  of  a  very  thick  wall. 
A  few  miles  to  the  west  Chimney  Rock  appears  in  full 
view.  The  scenery  around  is  pleasant  and  romantic. 
After  the  Indians  had  viewed  the  camp,  they  returned  to 
their  horses  and  the  rest  of  the  party  who  have  camped 
on  the  banks  of  the  river  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  west 


182  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

of  us.  Elder  Sherwood  returned  with  them  and  soon 
after  came  back  accompanied  by  the  chief  and  his  squaw 
who  signified  a  wish  to  abide  with  our  camp  tonight.  The 
brethren  fixed  up  a  tent  for  them  to  sleep  under;  Porter 
Rockwell  made  them  some  coffee,  and  they  were  fur- 
nished with  some  victuals.  The  old  chief  amused  him- 
self very  much  by  looking  at  the  moon  through  a  tele- 
scope for  as  much  as  twenty  minutes.  Brother  Fair- 
banks is  much  better  this  evening.  Last  night  Luke 
Johnson  discovered  a  very  large  petrified  bone  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  bluffs  as  much  as  two  feet  wide,  but 
he  could  not  ascertain  the  length  of  it.  After  laboring 
sometime  ineffectually  to  dig  it  up,  he  broke  off  two 
pieces  and  brought  them  to  camp.  They  are  very  white 
and  hard.  It  is  now  eleven  o'clock.  I  have  been  writing 
in  Elder  Kimball's  journal  since  dark,  and  have  but  little 
chance  to  write  as  much  as  I  want  in  my  own  and  his 
both,  but  I  feel  determined  to  do  all  I  can  to  keep  a 
journal  of  this  expedition  which  will  be  interesting  to 
my  children  in  after  days,  and  perhaps  to  many  of  the 
Saints.  The  evening  is  very  fine  but  cool  and  I  retire 
to  rest  with  the  feeling:. "God  bless  my  dear  family." 

TUESDAY,  25xn.  The  morning  fine  and  very  pleas- 
ant. Most  of  the  Indians,  men,  women  and  children 
came  early  to  camp  on  their  ponies  and  marched  around 
mostly  trying  to  obtain  something  to  eat.  Several  little- 
barters  were  made  with  them  for  moccasins,  skins,  etc. 
John  S.  Higbee  traded  ponies  with  one  of  them.  They 
have  some  good  ponies  and  some  inferior  ones,  but  both 
male  and  females  are  neatly  dressed  and  very  tidy.  They 
look  cheerful  and  pleased  to  witness  the  camp,  etc.  At 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  183 

8:20  we  proceeded  onward.  After  we  started,  the  In- 
dians left  us  and  went  over  the  river.  One  mile  from 
where  we  started,  we  began  to  ascend  a  low  range  of 
bluffs  to  avoid  a  large,  high  sa,ndy  ridge  which  projects 
to  the  river.  We  traveled  three  quarters  of  a  mile  and 
descended  again  to  the  level  prairie.  At  9:40  we  halted 
to  let  the  cattle  and  teams  graze,  the  feed  being  good 
and  plentiful,  having  traveled  two  and  a  half  miles.- 
mostly  northwest  around  a  bend  of  the  river.  The  sun 
is  very  hot,  the  roads  sandy  and  hard  teaming.  The 
river  is  probably  three  quarters  of  a  mile  wide  here  and 
on  this  side  there  are  many  small  islands.  At  11  :15  con- 
tinued our  journey  and  traveled  till  half  past  one,  dis- 
tance four  and  three  quarters  miles  over  a  very  soft, 
\vet,  level  prairie.  We  then  halted  to  feed  and  rest  our 
teams,  as  they  have  been  hard  drawn  nearly  all  day. 
We  have  seen  no  game  for  several  days  except  a  few 
antelope  and  hares.  The  buffalo  appear  to  have  left  this 
region  and  in  fact  there  are  little  signs  of  many  having 
been  here.  The  feed  is  poor,  mostly  last  year's  growth 
and  very  short.  One  of  the  hunters  killed  an  antelope, 
which  was  brought  to  camp  and  divided  to  the  captains 
of  tens.  At  3  :00  p.  m.  we  started  again  and  traveled 
till  a  quarter  to  six,  distance  four  and  three  quarters 
miles,  and  during  the  day  twelve  miles.  For  three  mile? 
of  the  first  of  this  afternoon  we  had  a  good  road,  but 
the  last  part  has  been  very  wet  and  soft,  numerous  ponds 
of  water  standing  all  around  caused  by  heavy  rains.  We 
have  camped  on  a  very  wet  spot,  but  the  feed  being  poor 
where  it  was  drier,  it  was  decided  to  stay  for  the  bene- 
fit of  the  teams.  Our  course  has  been  about  northwest. 


184  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

very  little  wind  and  the  day  very  warm.  Chimney  Rock 
shows  very  plain  and  appears  not  more  than  two  miles 
distance  but  is  no  doubt  five  miles  distance  or  over.  An- 
other antelope  has  been  killed  and  brought  in  by  the 
hunters.  Elder  Orson  Pratt  is  taking  an  observation  to 
ascertain  the  height  of  Chimney  Rock.  The  evening  was 
very  pleasant  and  the  brethren  passed  away  their  time 
till  after  nine  o'clock  dancing.  Porter  Rockwell  shot 
the  two  antelope  spoken  of  above.  He  also  shot  two 
wolves.  Latitude  six  and  a  quarter  miles  back,  41°  41' 
46". 

WEDNESDAY,  26xH.  The  morning  very  fine  and 
pleasant.  I  have  spent  the  morning  working  on  Dr. 
Richards'  map.  At  eight  o'clock  continued  on  our  jour- 
ney. Elder  Pratt  taking  observations  to  tell  the  distance 
our  road  lies  from  Chimney  Rock.  Yesterday  morning 
Stephen  Markham  traded  a  mule  which  was  foundered 
and  unable  to  work  to  one  of  the  Indians  for  a  pony. 
They  put  him  in  the  harness  a  little  towards  evening  and 
again  this  morning.  When  crossing  a  very  soft  place 
the  whipple  tree  unhitched  and  struck  against  his  heels. 
He  ran  full  gallop  towards  the  head  teams  and  twice 
through  the  line  of  wagons  causing  several  teams,  horses 
and  oxen  both,  to  spring  from  the  road  and  run  some 
distance  before  the  men  could  stop  them.  After  running 
nearly  a  mile  some  of  the  brethren  caught  the  pony 
brought  him  back  and  put  him  to  the  wagon  again  with- 
out any  accident,  except  a  little  injury  to  the  harness. 
After  traveling  four  and  five-eights  miles,  we  arrived  at 
a  point  directly  north  of  Chimney  Rock  which  we  as- 
certained by  the  compass,  having  traveled  since  it  was 


WILLIAM:  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  iss 

first  discovered  41  1/2  miles.  We  proceeded  till  twelve 
o'clock  and  halted  to  feed,  having  traveled  seven  and  a 
quarter  miles,  a  northwest  course,  the  road  very  straight 
and  hard  excepting  a  few  spots  where  the  water  stands 
caused  by  late  heavy  rains.  We  turned  south  a  little  to 
get  to  grass  as  the  higher  prairie  is  barren,  and  scarcely 
any  grass  on  it.  Porter  Rockwell  has  killed  two  antelope 
and  John  Brown  one  which  were  brought  into  camp  and 
are  being  divided  amongst  the  companies  as  usual.  El- 
der Pratt  found  that  Chimney  Rock  is  260  feet  high  from 
its  base  to  its  summit  and  the  distance  from  our  road  at 
*the  nearest  point  three  miles.  The  latitude  at  noon  halt 
41°  45'  58".  At  2:25  resumed  our  journey  making  our 
road  nearer  the  river  than  this  morning.  The  road  some- 
what crooked  but  good  traveling.  After  traveling  five 
miles,  turned  directly  south  to  avoid  a  bad  slough  and 
went  a  quarter  of  a  mile  and  then  formed  our  encamp- 
ment at  five  o'clock  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  The  last 
quarter  of  a  mile  was  not  reckoned  in  the  day's  travel 
which  exclusive  of  that  is  12  1/4  miles,  course  north  of 
northwest.  The  feed  here  is  good  and  sufficient  to  fill 
our  teams  well.  Joseph  Hancock  killed  an  antelope  which 
was  brought  into  camp  and  distributed.  Soon  after  we 
camped,  walked  out  to  the  bank  of  the  river  with  Presi- 
dents Young  and  Kimball  to  read  to  them  some  of  the 
minutes  of  the  old  council.  We  were  joined  by  Dr.  Rich- 
ards and  tarried  till  seven  o'clock,  at  which  time  a  heavy 
black  cloud  was  fast  approaching  from  the  west  and  was 
soon  followed  by  a  strong  wind  and  a  little  rain  whicli 
lasted  only  a  short  time.  The  evening  afterwards  warm 
and  pleasant  though  somewhat  cloudy.  Carloss  Murray 


186  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S    JOURNAL. 

has  been  trying  to  rear  the  young  eagle  caught  on  Sat- 
urday. After  stopping  tonight,  he  put  it  under  a  wagon 
and  a  while  aftenvards  the  men  ran  the  wagon  back, 
one  of  the  wheels  ran  over  its  head  and  killed  it.  f 
wrote  in  Hebers  journal  till  half  past  ten  and  then  went 
to  rest. 

THURSDAY,  27'fH.  The  morning  very  fine.  We  have 
seen  a  number  of  romantic  spots  on  our  journey,  but  I 
consider  our  view  this  morning  more  sublime  than  any 
other.  Chimney  Rock  lies  southeast,  opposite  detached 
bluffs  of  various  shapes  and  sizes.  To  the  southwest. 
Scott's  Bluffs  look  majestic  and  sublime.  The  prairfc 
over  which  our  route -lies  is  very  level  and  green  as  far 
as  we  Cctn  see.  The  bluffs  on  the  north  low,  and  about 
three  miles  -distant.  The  scenery  is  truly  delightful  be- 
yond imagination.  I  have  finished  making  Dr.  Richards' 
map  to  Chimney  Rock.  Elder  Pratt  has  measured  the 
width  of  the  river  at  this  place  by  the  sextant  and  found 
it  to  be  exactly  792  yards.  At  ten  minutes  to  eight  we 
continued  our  journey  and  traveled  near  the  banks  of  the 
river  till  11 :45,  being  eight  miles.  The  route  very  good, 
hard  and  good  traveling,  although  a  little  crooked.  Porter 
Rockwell  has  killed  two  antelope  and  Amasa  Lyman  on--', 
which  were  brought  to  the  wagons  and  distributed.  There 
are  some  heavy  thunder  clouds  in  the  south  and  west  ami 
a  nice  breeze  from  northeast.  At  two  o'clock  we  con- 
tinued our  journey  over  the  same  kind  of  dry  level  prai- 
rie, keeping  not  far  distant  from  the  banks  of  the  river 
and  making  a  straight  road.  At  the  distance  of  four  and 
an  eighth  miles  passed  the  meridian  of  the  northernmost 
peak  of  Scott's  Bluffs  being  19  3/4  miles  from  the  meri- 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  187 

clian  of  Chimney  Rock.  These  bluffs  are  very  high, 
steep,  and  broken  like  many  others,  resembling  ancient 
ruins.  They  are  probably  two  miles  from  north  to  south, 
extremity,  but  not  very  wide.  We  traveled  till  4:45  and 
formed  our  encampment  in  a  circle  near  the  banks  of  the 
river  which  from  this  place  seems  to  bend  for  some  dis- 
tance to  the  north,  having  traveled  this  afternoon  five 
and  three  quarters  miles  and  during  the  day  thirteen  and 
three  quarters,  mostly  northwest.  Elders  Kimball  and 
Woodruff  pointed  out  the  road  this  forenoon.  Afternoon 
Elder  Kimball  rode  with  me  in  Johnson's  wagon  while  I 
read  some  of  his  journal  to  him.  The  evening  is  very 
cold,  wind  northeast,  and  raining  some.  Feed  is  good  and 
the  camp  generally  well.  Another  antelope  was  brought 
in  by  the  hunters.  The  latitude  of  the  northernmost  peak 
of  Scott's  Bluffs  41°  50'  52". 

FRIDAY,  28xH.  The  morning  cool,  damp,  cloudy  and 
some  rain.  Wind  northeast.  At  about  eight  o'clock 
the  brethren  were  called  together  and  the  question  asked : 
shall  we  go  on  in  the  rain  or  wait  until  it  is  fair?  All 
agreed  to  stay  until  it  was  fair.  I  went  tp  writing  in 
Heber's  journal  and  wrote  till  nearly  eleven  o'clock.  El- 
der Kimball  came  to  the  next  wagon  where  some  of  the 
boys  were  playing-  cards.  He  told  them  his  views  and 
disapprobation  of  their  spending  time  gaming  and  danc- 
ing and  mock  trying,  etc.,  and  especially  the  profane  lan- 
guage frequently  uttered  by  some.  He  reasoned  with 
them  on  the  subject  and  showed  them  that  it  would  lead 
from  bad  to  worse  if  persisted  in  until  the  consequences 
would  become  serious.  He  exhorted  them  to  be  more 
sober  and  wise.  It  growing  fair,  we  started  out  at  eleven 


188  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

o'clock,  our  first  four  miles  being  north  of  northwest  in 
consequence  of  a  bend  in  the  river.  We  traveled  beside  a 
creek  of  very  clear  water  about  a  mile.  It  rises  about 
four  miles  northwest  of  where  we  camped  last  night  and 
runs  in  a  crooked  direction  till  it  empties  into  the  river 
about  a  mile  west  of  the  camp.  It  rises  from  springs  as 
was  proved  by  Horace  Whitney  who  traced  it  to  its 
source  where  there  is  a  spring  rising  out  of  a  circular 
kind  of  wet  swamp  about  six  feet  in  diameter.  The  creek 
is  about  eight  feet  wide  but  not  deep,  the  bottom  is  grav- 
elly. Near  where  it  empties  into  the  river,  they  discov- 
ered a  number  of  large  spotted  trout,  suckers  and  dais  of 
a  good  size.  The  water  tasted  very  good  and  cold.  At 
the  distance  of  four  miles  we  arrived  and  traveled  at 
the  foot  of  the  bluffs,  the  road  sandy  and  heavy  on 
teams.  We  soon  turned  from  the  bluffs  on  a  level  bar- 
ren prairie,  hard  and  good  traveling.  At  nine  miles 
descended  on  a  lower  bench  of  prairie  where  we  found  it 
wet  and  soft  though  not  bad  rolling.  At  4 :45  formed 
our  encampment  near  the  river,  having  traveled  eleven 
and  a  half  miles,  the  last  seven  a  little  south  of  west. 
The  feed  here  is  not  very  good.  Driftwood  tolerably 
plentiful.  We  have  seen  a  few  small  trees  on  the  islands 
today  but  none  on  the  north  bank.  Vast  quantities  of 
southern  wood  and  prickley  pear  grow  on  these  sandy 
prairies  where  there  is  no  grass.  The  evening  cloudy  an  ' 
dull  with  cold  northeast  wind.  While  Thomas  Brown 
and  Porter  Rockwell  were  out  hunting  about  five  miles 
north  of  here,  the  former  saw  five  or  six  Indians  about 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  him.  They  also  saw  many  new 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  189 

footprints  of  horses,  which  shows  that  there  is  a  hunting 
party  near. 

SATURDAY,  29rH.  The  morning  cold,  wet  and 
cloudy  with  wind  from  northeast.  We  shall  not  travel 
unless  it  grows  fair  and  better  weather.  I  spent  the  morn- 
ing writing  in  Elder  Kimball's  journal,  but  felt  very 
unwell  having  taken  cold  yesterday  and  been  sick  all 
night.  About  ten  o'clock,  the  weather  looked  a  little 
better  and  at  half  past  ten  the  bugle  sounded  as  a  signal 
for  the  teams  to  be  got  together.  After  the  teams  were 
harnessed,  the  brethren  were  called,  together  to  the  boat 
in  the  circle.  President  Young  taking  his  station  in  the 
boat,  ordered  each  captain  of  ten  to  lead  out  his  re- 
spective company  and  get  all  his  men  together.  He 
then  called  on  the  clerk  to  call  over  the  names  of  the 
camp  to  see  if  all  were  present.  Joseph  Hancock  and 
Andrew  Gibbons  were  reported  to-  be  absent  hunting. 
Brothers  Elijah  Newman  and  Nathaniel  Fairbanks  were 
confined  to  their  wagons  but  answered  to  their  names, 
the  remainder  all  present.  President  Young  then  ad- 
dressed the  meeting  in  substance  as  follows: 

"I  remarked  last  Sunday  that  I  had  not  felt  much 
like  preaching  to  the  brethren  on  this  mission.  This 
morning  I  feel  like  preaching  a  little,  and  shall  take  for 
my  text,  'That  as  to  pursuing  our  journey  with  this  com- 
pany with  the  spirit  they  possess,  I  am  about  to  revolt 
against  it.'  This  is  the  text  I  feel  like  preaching  on  this 
morning,  consequently  I  am  in  no  hurry.  In  the  first 
place,  before  we  left  Winter  Quarters,  it  was  told  to  the 
brethren  and  many  knew  it  by  experience,  that  we  had  to 
leave  our  homes-,  our  houses,  our  land  and  our  all  because 
we  believed  in  the  Gospel  as  revealed  to  the  Saints  in 


190  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

these  last  days.  The  rise  of  the  persecutions  against  the 
Church  was  in  consequence  of  the  doctrines  of  eternal 
truth  taught  by  Joseph.  Many  knew  this,  by  experience. 
Some  lost  their  husbands,  some  lost  their  wives,  and  some 
their  children  through  persecution,  and  yet  we  have  not 
been  disposed  to  forsake  the  truth  and  turn  and  mingle 
with  the  gentiles,  except  a  few  who  have  turned  aside 
and  gone  away  from  us,  and  we  have  learned  in  a  meas- 
ure, the  difference  between  a  professor  of  religion  and  a 
possessor  of  religion.  Before  we  left  Winter  Quarters  it 
was  told  to  the  brethren  that  we  were  going -to  look  out  a 
home  for  the  Saints  where  they  would  be  free  from  per- 
secution by  the  gentiles,  where  we  could  dwell  in  peace 
and  serve  God  according  to  the  Holy  Priesthood,  where 
we  could  build  up  the  kingdom  so  that  the  nations  would 
begin  to  flock  to  our  standard.  I  have  said  many  things 
to  the  brethren  about  the  strictness  of  their  walk  and  con- 
duct when  we  left  the  gentiles,  and  told  them  that  we 
would  have  to  walk  upright  or  the  law  would  be  put  in 
force,  etc.  Many  have  left  and  turned  aside  through 
fear,  but  no  good  upright,  honest  man  will  fear.  The 
Gospel  does  not  bind  a  good  man  down  and  deprive  him 
of  his  rights  and  privileges.  It  does  not  prevent  him 
from  enjoying  the  fruits  of  his  labors.  It  does  not  rob 
him  of  blessings.  It  does  not  stop  his  increase.  It  does 
not  diminish  his  kingdom,  but  it  is  calculated  to  enlarge 
his  kingdom  as  well  as  to  enlarge  his  heart.  It  is  cal- 
culated to  give  him  privileges  and  power,  and  honor,  and 
exaltation  and  everything  which  his  heart  can  desire  in 
righteousness  all  the  days  of  his  life,  and  then,  when  he 
gets  exalted  into  the  eternal  world  he  can  still  turn 


WILLIAM   CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  191 

around  and  say  it  hath  not  entered  into  the  heart  of  man 
to  conceive  the  glory  and  honor  and  blessings  which  God 
hath  in  store  for  those  that  love  and  serve  Him.  I  want 
the  brethren  to  understand  and  comprehend  the  principles 
of  eternal  life,  and  to  watch  the  spirit,  be  wide  awake  and 
not  be  overcome  by  the  adversary.  You  can  see  the  fruits 
of  the  spirit,  but  you  cannot  see  the  spirit  itself  with  the 
natural  eye.  you  behold  it  not.  You  can  see  the  result  of 
yielding  to  the  evil  spirit  and  what  it  will  lead  you  to. 
but  you  do  not  see  the  spirit  itself  nor  its  operations,  only 
by  the  spirit  that's  in  you.  Nobody  has  told  me  what  has 
been  going  on  in  the  camp,  but  I  have  known  it  all  the 
while.  I  have  been  watching  its  movements,  its  influ- 
ence, its  effects,  and  I  know  the  result  if  it  is  not  put  a 
stop  to.  I  want  you  to  understand  that  inasmuch  as  we 
are  beyond  the  power  of  the  gentiles  where  the  devil  has 
tabernacles  in  the  priests  and  the  people,  we  are  beyond 
their  reach,  we  are  beyond  their  power,  w!e  are  beyond 
their  grasp,  and  what  has  the  devil  now  to  work  upon' 
L'pon  the  spirits  of  men  in  this  camp,  and  if  you  do  not 
open  your  hearts  so  that  the  Spirit  of  God  can  enter  your 
hearts  and  teach  you  the  right  way,  I  know  that  you  are  a 
ruined  people  and  will  be  destroyed  and  that  without 
remedy,  and  unless  there  is  a  change  and  a  different 
course  of  conduct,  a  different  spirit  to  what  is  now  in 
this  camp,  I  go  no  farther.  I  am  in  no  hurry.  Give  me 
the  man  of  prayers,  give  me  the  man  of  faith,  give  me 
the  man  of  meditation,  a  sober-minded  man,  and  I  would 
far  rather  go  amongst  the  savages  with  six  or  eight  such 
men  than  to  trust  myself  with  the  whole  of  this  camp 
with  the  spirit  they  now  possess.  Here  is  an  opportunity 


192  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

for  every  man  to  prove  himself,  to  know  whether  he  will 
pray  and  remember  his  God  without  being  asked  to  do  it 
every  day;  to  know  whether  he  will  have  confidence 
enough  to  ask  of  God  that  he  may  receive  without  my 
telling  him  to  do  it.  If  this  camp  was  composed  of  men 
who  had  newly  received  the  Gospel,  men  who  had  not  re- 
received  the  priesthood,  men  who  had  not  been  through 
the  ordinances  in  the  temple  and  who  had  not  had  years 
of  experience,  enough  to  have  learned  the  influence  of 
the  spirits  and  the  difference  between  a  good  and  an  evil 
spirit,  I  should  feel  like  preaching  to  them  and  watching 
over  them  and  telling  them  all  the  time,  day  by  day. 
But  here  are  the  Elders  of  Israel,  men  who  have  hat! 
years  of  experience,  men  who  have  had  the  priesthood 
for  years, — and  have  they  got  faith  enough  to  rise  up  and 
stop  a  mean,  low,  groveling,  covetous,  quarrelsome  spirit  ? 
No,  they  have  not,  nor  would  they  try  to  stop  it,  unless  I 
rise  up  in  the  power  of  God  and  put  it  down.  I  do  not 
mean  to  bow  down  to  the  spirit  that  is  in  this  camp,  and 
which  is  rankling  in  the  bosoms  of  the  brethren,  and 
which  will  lead  to  knock  downs  and  perhaps  to  the  use  of 
the  knife  to  cut  each  other's  throats  if  it  is  not  put  a  stop 
to.  I  do  not  mean  to  bow  down  to  the  spirit  which  causes 
the  brethren  to  quarrel.  When  I  wake  up  in  the  morn- 
ing, the  first  thing  I  hear  is  some  of  the  brethren  jawing 
each  other  and  quarreling  because  a  horse  has  got  loose 
in  the  night.  I  have  let  the  brethren  dance  and  fiddle  and 
act  the  nigger  night  after  night  to  see  what  they  will  do, 
and  what  extremes  they  would  go  to,  if  suffered  to  go 
as  far  as  they  would.  I  do  not  love  to  see  it.  The  breth- 
ren say  they  want  a  little  exercise  to  pass  away  time 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  193 

in  the  evenings,  but  if  you  can't  tire  yourselves  ba'i 
enough  with  a  day's  journey  without  dancing  every  night, 
carry  your  guns  on  your  shoulders  and  walk,  carry  your 
wood  to  camp  instead  of  lounging  and  lying  asleep  in 
your  wagons,  increasing  the  load  until  your  teams  are 
tired  to  death  and  ready  to  drop  to  the  earth.  Help 
your  teams  over  mud  holes  and  bad  places  instead  of 
lounging  in  your  wagons  and  that  will  give  you  exercise 
enough  without  dancing.  Well,  they  will  play  cards, 
they  will  play  checkers,  they  will  play  dominoes,  and  if 
they  had  the  privilege  and  were  where  they  could  get 
whiskey,  they  would  be  drunk  half  their  time,  and  in  one 
week  they  would  quarrel,  get  to  high  words  and  draw 
their  knives  to  kill  each  other.  This  is  what  such  a 
course  of  things  would  lead  to.  Don't  you  know  it  ?  Yes. 
\Yell,  then,  why  don't  you  try  to  put  it  down?  I  have 
played  cards  once  in  my  life  since  I  became  a  Mormon  to 
see  what  kind  of  spirit  would  attend  it,  and  I  was  so 
well  satisfied,  that  I  would  rather  see  in  your  hands  the 
dirtiest  thing  you  could  find  on  the  earth,  than  a  pack 
of  cards.  You  never  read  of  gambling,  playing  cards, 
checkers,  dominoes,  etc.,  in  the  scriptures,  but  you  do 
read  of  men  praising  the  Lord  in  the  dance,  but  who  ever 
read  of  praising  the  Lord  in  a  game  at  cards?  If  any 
man  had  sense  enough  to  play  a  game  at  cards,  or  dance  a 
little  without  wanting  to  keep  it  up  all  the  time,  but  exer- 
cise a  little  and  then  quit  it  and  think  no  more  of  it,  it 
would  do  well  enough,  but  you  want  to  keep  it  up  till 
midnight  and  every  night,  and  all  the  time.  You  don't 
know  how  to  control  your  senses.  Last  winter  when  we 
had  our  seasons  of  recreation  in  the  council  house,  I  went 

14 


194  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

forth  in  the  dance  frequently,  but  did  my  mind  run  on 
it  ?  No !  To  be  sure,  when  I  was  dancing,  my  mind  was 
on  the  dance,  but  the  moment  I  stopped  in  the  middle  or 
the  end  of  a  tune,  my  mind  was  engaged  in  prayer  and 
praise  to  my  Heavenly  Father  and  whatever  I  engage  in, 
my  mind  is  on  it  while  engaged  in  it,  but  the  moment  I 
am  done  with  it,  my  mind  is  drawn  up  to  my  God.  The 
devils  which  inhabit  the  gentiles'  priests  are  here.  The 
tabernacles  are  not  here,  we  are  out  of  their  power,  we 
are  'beyond  their  grasp,  we  are  beyond  the  reach  of  their 
persecutions,  but  the  devils  are  here,  and  the  first  thing 
you'll  know  if  you  don't  open  your  eyes  and  your 
hearts,  they  will  cause  divisions  in  our  camp  and  perhaps 
war,  as  they  did  with  the  Lamanites  as  you  read  in  the 
Book  of  Mormon.  Do  we  suppose  that  we  are  going  to 
look  out  a  home  for  the  Saints,  a  resting  place,  a  place  of 
peace  where  they  can  build  up  the  kindgom  and  bid  the 
nations  welcome,  with  a  low,  mean,  dirty,  trifling,  cove- 
tous, wicked  spirit  dwelling  in  our  bosoms  ?  It  is  vain ! 
vain !  Some  of  you  are  very  fond  of  passing  jokes,  and 
will  carry  your  jokes  very  far.  But  will  you  take  a  joke? 
If  you  do  not  want  to  take  a  joke,  don't  give  a  joke  to 
your  brethren.  Joking,  nonsense,  profane  language,  trifl- 
ing conversation  and  loud  laughter  do  not  belong  to  us. 
Suppose  the  angels  were  witnessing  the  hoe  down  the 
other  evening,  and  listening  to  the  haw  haws  the  other 
evening,  would  they  not  be  ashamed  of  it  ?  I  am  ashamed 
of  it.  I  have  not  given  a  joke  to  any  man  on  this  journey 
nor  felt  like  it ;  neither  have  I  insulted  any  man's  feelings 
but  I  have  hollowed  pretty  loud  and  spoken  sharply  to  the 
brethren  when  I  have  seen  their  awkwardness  at  coming 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURXAL.  195 

to  camp.  The  revelations  in  the  Bible,  in  the  Book  of 
Mormon,  and  Doctrine  and  Covenants,  teach  us  to  be 
sober;  and  let  me  ask  you  elders  that  have  been  through 
the  ordinances  in  the  temple,  what  were  your  covenants 
there  ?  I  say  you  should  remember  them.  When  I  laugh 
I  see  my  folly  and  nothingness  and  weakness  and  am 
ashamed  of  myself.  I  think  meaner  and  worse  of  myself 
than  any  man  can  think  of  me ;  but  I  delight  in  God,  and 
in  His  commandments  and  delight  to  meditate  on  Him 
and  to  serve  Him  and  I  mean  that  everything  in  me  shall 
be  subjected  to  Him.  Now  let  every  man  repent  of  his 
weakness,  of  his  follies,  of  his  meanness,  and  every  kind 
of  wickedness,  and  stop  your  swearing  and  profane  lan- 
guage, for  it  is  in  this  camp  and  I  know  it,  and  have 
known  it.  I  have  said  nothing  about  it,  but  I  now  tell 
you,  if  you  don't  stop  it  you  shall  be  cursed  by  the  Al- 
mighty and  shall  dwindle  away  and  be  damned.  Such 
things  shall  not  be  suffered  in  this  camp.  You  shall  honor 
God,  and  confess  His  name  or  else  you  shall  suffer  the 
penalty.  Most  of  this  camp  belong  to  the  Church,  nearly 
all ;  and  I  would  say  to  you  brethren,  and  to  the  Elders 
of  Israel,  if  you  are  faithful,  you  will  yet  be  sent  to  preach 
this  Gospel  to  the  nations  of  the  earth  and  bid  all  wel- 
come whether  they  believe  the  Gospel  or  not,  and  this 
kingdom  will  reign  over  many  who  do  not  belong  to  the 
Church,  over  thousands  who  do  not  believe  in  the  Gospel. 
Bye  and  bye  every  knee  shall  bow  and  every  tongue  con- 
fess and  acknowledge  and  reverence  and  honor  the  name 
of  God  and  His  priesthood  and  observe  the  laws  of  the 
kingdom  whether  they  belong  to  the  Church  and  obey 
the  Gospel  or  not,  and  I  mean  that  every  man  in  this 


196  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

camp  shall  do  it.  That  is  what  the  scripture  means  by 
every  knee  shall  bow,  etc.,  and  you  cannot  make  anything 
else  out  of  it.  I  understand  there  are  several  in  this 
camp  who  do  not  belong  to  the  Church.  I  am  the  man 
who  will  stand  up  for  them  and~  protect  them  in  all  their 
rights.  And  they  shall  not  trample  on  our  rights  nor  on 
the  priesthood.  They  shall  reverence  and  acknowledge 
the  name  of  God  and  His  priesthood,  and  if  they  set  up 
their  heads  and  seek  to  introduce  iniquity  into  this  camp 
and  to  trample  on  the  priesthood,  I  swear  to  them,  they 
shall  never  go  back  to  tell  the  tale.  I  will  leave  them 
where  they  will  be  safe.  If  they  wiant  to  retreat  they  can 
now  have  the  privilege,  and  any  man  who  chooses  to  go 
back  rather  than  abide  the  law  of  God  can  now  have  the 
privilege  of  doing  so  before  we  go  any  farther.  Here 
are  the  Elders  of  Israel  who  have  the  priesthood,  who 
have  got  to  preach  the  Gospel  who  have  to  gather  the 
nations  of  the  earth,  who  have  to  build  up  the  kingdom 
so  that  the  nations  can  come  to  it,  they  will  stop  to  dance 
as  niggers.  I  don't  mean  this  as  debasing  the  negroes 
by  any  means ;  they  will  hoe  down  all,  turn  summersets, 
dance  on  their  knees,  and  haw,  haw,  out  loud ;  they  will 
play  cards,  they  will  play  checkers  and  dominoes,  they 
will  use  profane  language,  they  will  swear!  Suppose 
when  you  go  to  preach,  the  people  should  ask  you  what 
you  did  when  you  went  on  this  mission  to  seek  out  a 
home  for  the  whole  Church,  what  was  your  course  of 
conduct  ?  Did  you  dance  ?  Yes.  Did  you  hoe  down  all  ? 
Yes.  Did  you  play  cards  ?  Yes.  Did  you  play  checkers  ? 
Yes.  Did  you  use  profane  language?  Yes.  Did  you 
swear?  Yes.  Did  you  quarrel  with  each  other  and  threaten 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  197 

each  other?  Why  yes.  How  would  you  feel?  What 
would  you  say  for  yourselves?  Would  you  not  want  to 
go  and  hide  up?  Your  mouths  would  be  stopped  and 
you  would  want  to  creep  away  in  disgrace.  I  am  one 
of  the  last  to  ask  my  brethren  to  enter  into  solemn  cove- 
nants, but  if  they  will  not  enter  into  a  covenant  to  put 
away  their  iniquity  and  turn  to  the  Lord  and  serve  Him 
and  acknowledge  and  honor  His  name,  I  want  them  to 
take  their  wagons  and  retreat  back,  for  I  shall  go  no 
farther  under  such  a  state  of  things.  If  we  don't  repent 
and  quit  our  wickedness  we  will  have  more  hinderances 
than  we  have  had,  and  worse  storms  to  encounter.  T 
want  the  brethren  to  be  ready  for  meeting  tomorrow  at 
the  time  appointed,  instead  of  rambling  off,  and  hiding 
in  their  wagons  to  play  cards,  etc.  I  think  it  will  be  good 
for  us  to  have  a  fast  meeting  tomorrow  and  a  prayer 
meeting  to  humble  ourselves  and  turn  to  the  Lord  and 
he  will  forgive  us." 

He  then  called  upon  all  the  High  Priests  to  step 
forth  in  a  line  in  front  of  the  wagon  and  then  the  bishops 
to  step  in  front  of  the  High  Priests,  which  being  done,  he 
counted  them  and  found  their  number  to  be  four  bishops 
and  fifteen  high  priests.  He  then  called  upon  all  the  sev- 
enties to  form  a  line  in  the  rear  of  the  high  priests. 
On  being  counted,  they  were  ascertained  to  number 
seventy-eight.  Next  he  called  on  the  elders  to  form 
a  line  in  the  rear  of  the  wagon.  They  were  eight 
in  number,  i  There  were  also  eight  of  the  quo- 
rum of  the  twelve.  He  then  asked  the  brethren  of  the 
quorum  of  the  twelve  if  they  were  willing  to  covenant, 
to  turn  to  the  Lord  with  all  their  hearts,  to  repent  of  all 


198  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

their  follies,  to  cease  from  all  their  evils  and  serve  God 
according  to  His  laws.  If  they  were  willing,  to  manifest 
it  by  holding  up  their  right  hand.  Every  man  held  up 
his  hand  in  token  that  he  covenanted.  He  then  put  the 
same  question  to  the  high  priests  and  bishops ;  next  to  the 
seventies,  and  then  to  the  elders,  and  lastly  to  the  other 
brethren.  All  covenanted  with  uplifted  hands  without  a 
dissenting  voice.  He  then  addressed  those  who  are  not 
members  of  the  Church  and  told  them1  they  should  be 
protected  in  their  rights  and  privileges  while  they  would 
conduct  themselves  well  and  not  seek  to  trample  on  the 
priesthood  nor  'blaspheme  the  name  of  God,  etc.  He  then 
referrred  to  the  conduct  of  Benjamin  Rolfe's  two  younger 
brothers,  in  joining  with  the  Higbees  and  John  C.  Ben- 
nett in  sowing  discord  and  strife  among  the  Saints  in 
Xauvoo  and  remarked  that  there  will  be  no  more  Ben- 
nett scrapes  suffered  here.  He  spoke  highly  of  Benjamin 
Rolfe's  conduct,  although  not  a  member  of  the  Church 
and  also  referred  to  the  esteem  in  which  his  father  and 
mother  were  held  'by  the  Saints  generally.  He  then  very 
tenderly  blessed  the  brethren  and  prayed  that  God  would 
enable  them  to  fulfill  their  covenants  and  then  withdrew 
to  give  opportunity  for  others  to  speak  if  they  felt  like 
it.  Elder  Kimball  arose  to  say  that  he  agreed  with  all 
that  President  Young  had  said.  He  receives  it  as  the 
word  of  the  Lord  to  him  and  it  is  the  word  of  the  Lord 
to  this  camp  if  they  will  receive  it.  He  has  been  watch- 
ing the  motion  of  things  and  the  conduct  of  the  brethren 
for  some  time  and  has  seen  what  it  would  lead  to.  He 
has  said  little  but  thought  a  great  deal.  It  has  made  him 
shudder  when  he  has  seen  the  Elders  of  Israel  descend 


WILLIAM'  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  199 

to  the  lowest,  dirtiest  things  imaginable,  the  tail  end  Oi 
everything,  but  what  has  passed  this  morning  will  make  it 
an  everlasting  blessing  to  the  brethren,  if  they  will  repent 
and  be  faithful  and  keep  their  covenant.  He  never  can 
rest  satisfied  until  his  family  is  liberated  from  the  gen- 
tiles and  their  company  and  established  in  a  land  where 
they  can  plant  and  reap  the  fruits  of  their  labors,  but  he 
has  never  had  the  privilege  of  eating  the  fruits  of  his 
labors  yet,  neither  has  his  family,  but  when  this  is  done 
he  can  sleep  in  peace  if  necessary  but  not  till  then.  If 
we  will  serve  the  Lord,  remember  His  name  to  call  upon 
Him,  and  be  faithful,  we  shall  not  one  of  us  be  left  under 
the  sod,  but  shall  be  permitted  to  return  and  meet  our 
families  in  peace  and  enjoy  their  society  again;  but  if  thi> 
camp  continues  the  course  of  conduct  it  has  done,  the 
judgment  of  God  will  overtake  us.  He  hopes  the  breth- 
ren will  take  heed  to  what  President  Young  has  said  and 
let  it  sink  deep  in  their  hearts. 

Elder  Pratt  wanted  to  add  a  word  to  what  has  been 
said.  "Much  good  advice  has  been  given  to  teach  us  how 
we  may  spend  our  time  profitably  by  prayer,  and  medita- 
tion, etc."  But  there  is  another  idea  which  he  wants  to 
add.  "There  are  many  books  in  the  camp  and  worlds  of 
knowledge  before  us  which  we  have  not  obtained,  and  if 
the  brethren  would  devote  all  their  leisure  time  to  seek- 
ing after  knowledge,  they  would  never  need  to  say  they 
had  nothing  with  which  to  pass  away  their  time.  If  we 
could  spend  23  hours  out  of  the  24  in  gaining  knowledge 
and  only  sleep  one  hour  of  the  24  all  the  days  of  our  life, 
"here  would  still  be  worlds  of  knowledge  in  store  for  us 
yet  to  learn.  He  knows  it  is  difficult  to  bring  our  minds 


200  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S   JOURNAL. 

to  diligent  and  constant  studies,  in  pursuit  of  knowledge 
all  at  once,  but  by  steady  practice  and  perseverance  we 
shall  become  habituated  to  it,  and  it  will  become  a  pleas- 
ure to  us.  He  would  recommend  to  the  brethren,  be- 
sides prayer,  and  obedience,  to  seek  after  knowledge  con- 
tinually. And  it  will  help  us  to  overcome  our  follies 
and  nonsense;  we  shall  have  no  time  for  it. 

Elder  Woodruff  said  he  remembered  the  time  when 
the  camp  went  up  to  Missouri  to  redeem'  Zion,  when 
Brother  Joseph  stood  up  on  a  wagon  wheel  and  told  the 
brethren  that  the  decree  had  passed  and  could  not  be  re- 
voked, and  the  destroying  angel  would  visit  the  camp  and 
we  should  die  like  sheep  with  the  rot.  He  had  repeatedly 
warned  the  brethren  of  their  evil  conduct  and  what  it 
would  lead  to,  but  they  still  continued  in  their  course. 
It  was  not  long  before  the  destroying  angel  did  visit  the 
camp  and  the  brethren  began  to  fall  as  Brother  Joseph 
had  said.  We  buried  eighteen  in  a  short  time  and  a  more 
sorrowful  tirrte  I  never  saw.  There  are  nine  here  who 
were  in  that  camp  and  they  all  recollect  the  circumstance 
well  and  will  never  forget  it.  He  has  been  thinking  while 
the  President  was  speaking,  that  if  he  was  one  who  had 
played  checkers  or  cards,  he  would  take  every  pack  of 
cards  and  every  checker  board  and  burn  them  up  so  that 
they  would  no  longer  be  in  the  way  to  tempt  us. 

Colonel  Markham  acknowledged  that  he  had  done 
wrong  in  many  things.  He  had  always  indulged  himself, 
before  he  came  into  the  Church,  with  everything  he  de- 
sired and  he  knows  he  has  done  wrong  on  this  journey, 
he  knows  his  mind  has  become  darkened  since  he  left 
Winter  Quarters.  He  hopes  the  brethren  will  forgive 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  201 

him  and  he  will  pray  to  be  forgiven  and  try  to  do  better. 
While  he  was  speaking  he  was  very  much  affected  in- 
deed and  wept  like  a  child.  Many  of  the  brethren  felt 
much  affected  and  all  seemed  to  realize  for  the  first  time, 
the  excess  to  which  they  had  yielded  and  the  awful  con- 
sequence of  such  things  if  persisted  in.  Many  were  in 
tears  and  felt  humbled.  President  Young  returned  to  the 
boat  as  Brother  Markham  closed  his  remarks  and  said 
in  reply,  that  he  knew  the  brethren  would  forgive  him, 
and  the  Lord  will  forgive  us  all  if  we  turn  to  Him  with 
all  our  hearts  and  cease  to  do  evil.  The  meeting  was  then 
dismissed,  each  man  retiring  to  his  wagon.  And  being 
half  past  one  o'clock  we  again  pursued  our  journey  in 
peace,  all  reflecting  on  what  has  passed  today,  and  many 
expressing  their  gratitude  for  what  has  transpired.  It 
seemed  as  though  we  were  just  commencing  on  this  im- 
portant mission,  and  all  realizing  the  responsibility  rest- 
ing upon  us  to  conduct  ourselves  in  such  a  manner  that 
the  journey  jnay  be  an  everlasting  blessing  to  us,  instead 
of  an  everlasting  disgrace.  No  loud  laughter  was  heard, 
no  swearing,  no  quarreling,  no  profane  language,  no  hard 
speeches  to  man  or  beast,  and  it  truly  seemed  as  though 
the  cloud  had  burst  and  we  had  emerged  into  a  new  ele- 
ment, a  new  atmsophere,  and  a  new  society.  We  traveled 
six  and  three  quarters  miles  about  a  north  of  northwest 
course  and  then  arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  low  bluffs 
which  extend  within  about  ten  rods  of  the  river,  the  lat- 
ter forming  a  large  bend  northward  at  this  point.  At  the 
foot  of  the  bluffs  the  road  was  sandy  and  very  heavy  on 
our  teams.  Like  all  other  sandy  places,  it  was  perfectly 
barren,  being  only  a  tuft  of  grass  here  and  there.  After 


202  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

passing  over  the  sand  we  changed  our  course  to  a  little 
north  of  west,  not,  however,  leaving  the  bluffs  very  far. 
The  river  bends  again  to  the  south.  We  then  found  the 
ground  hard  and  good  to  travel  over,  but  perfectly  bare 
of  grass  for  upwards  of  a  mile.  At  five  o'clock  it  com- 
menced raining  very  hard  accompanied  by  lightning  and 
thunder  and  strong  northeast  wind.  It  also  changed  con- 
siderably cooler  again.  At  five  thirty  o'clock  we  formed 
our  encampment  on  the  edge  of  the  higher  bench  of 
prairie.  The  feed  is  tolerably  good  on  the  bottom  but 
here  there  is  none  at  all.  We  have  passed  a  small  grove 
of  fair  sized  trees,  all  green,  growing  on  the  islands 
in  the  river  which  are  tolerably  many  near  here,  but  there 
is  no  timber  yet  on  this  side  of  the  river.  The  brethren 
pick  up  drift  wood  enough  to  do  their  cooking.  I  spent 
the  evening  writing  in  this  journal  till  half  past  twelve 
o'clock,  but  felt  quite  unwell.  The  distance  we  have  trav- 
eled today  is  eight  and  a  half  miles,  during  the  week 
seventy- four  and  a  half,  making  us  514^  miles  from 
Winter  Quarters.  There  is  a  creek  of  clear  water  about 
200  yards  to  the  south  from  which  the  camp  obtains  what 
they  want. 

SUNDAY,  30xH.  The  morning  fair  and  somewhat 
more  pleasant,  although  there  is  yet  appearance  for  more 
rain.  I  felt  quite  unwell  through  the  night  and  also  this 
morning,  having  severe  pain.  At  nine  o'clock  most  of 
the  brethren  retired  a  little  south  of  the  camp  and  had 
a  prayer  meeting,  and  as  many  as  chose  to,  expressed 
their  feelings.  At  a  little  before  twelve  they  met  again 
in  the  same  spot  to  partake  of  the  sacrament.  Soon  af- 
terwards all  the  members  of  the  council  of  the  K.  of  G. 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  203 

in  the  camp,  except  Brother  Thomas  Bullock,  went  onto 
the  bluffs  and  selecting  a  small,  circular,  level  spot  sur- 
rounded by  bluffs  and  out  of  sight,  we  clothed  ourselves 
in  the  priestly  garments  and  offered  up  prayer  to  God  for 
ourselves,  this  camp  and  all  pertaining  to  it,  the  brethren 
in  the  army,  our  families  and  all  the  Saints,  President 
Young  being  mouth.     We  all  felt  well  and  glad  for  this 
privilege.     The  members  of  the  above  council  are  Brig- 
ham  Young,  Heber  C.  Kimball,  Willard  Richards,  Orson 
Pratt,  George  A.  Smith,  Wilford  Woodruff,  Amasa  Ly- 
man,  Ezra  T.  Benson,  Phineas  H.  Young,  John  Pack, 
Charles  Shumway,  Shadrack  Roundy,  Albert  P.  Rock- 
wood,  Erastus  Snow,  myself,  Albert  Carrington  and  Por- 
ter Rockwell.     The  two  latter,  having  no  clothing  with 
'.hem,  stood  guard  at  a  little  distance  from  us  to  prevent 
interruption.    When  we  started  for  the  bluffs,  there  was 
a  heavy  black  thunder  cloud  rising  from  the  southwest, 
and  from  all  appearance  it  might  rain  any  minute,  but  the 
brethren  believed  it  would  not  rain  till  we  got  through 
and  if  it  did  we  chose  rather  to  take  a  wetting  than  to  be 
disappointed  of  the  privilege.    It  kept  off  remarkably  till 
we  got  through  and  got  our  clothing  on,  but  soon  after 
it  began  to  rain  and  after  we  got  to  camp  it  rained  con- 
siderbly,  accompanied  by  strong  wind.  I  never  noticed  the 
brethren  so  still  and  sober  on  a  Sunday  since  we  started 
as  today.      There  is  no  jesting  nor  laughing,  nor  non- 
sense.   All  appear  ,to  be  sober  and  feel  to  remember  their 
covenant  which  makes  things  look  far  more  pleasant  than 
they  have  done  heretofore.    I  spent  most  of  the  afternoon 
in  Elder  Kimball's  wagon  with  Elder  Kimball,  President 
Young,  Lorenzo  and  Phineas  Young.    Read  the  minutes 


204  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

of  President  Young's  discourse  of  yesterday.  About  five 
o'clock  President  Young,  Kimball,  Benson  and  others 
walked  out  together  to  the  bluffs.  They  invited  me  to 
go  with  them  but  I  was  so  afflicted  with  cramps  I  could 
scarcely  walk,  and  after  drinking  a  cup  of  tea  prepared 
by  Ellen  Sanders  I  went  to  my  wagon  and  retired  to  bed 
early.  The  evening  more  pleasant  with  a  light  shower 
occasionally.  Elder  Kimball,  President  Young,  and 
others  saw  the  Black  Hills  in  the  distance  from  a  high 
bluff. 

MONDAY,  31  ST.  The  morning  fine  but  cool.  I  feel 
quite  unwell  yet  and  have  been  sick  all  night.  'At  a  quar- 
ter past  eight  we  proceeded  onward,  found  good  level 
traveling,  the  day  cool  and  pleasant.  We  soon  struck  a 
wagon  trail  which  evidently  leads  direct  to  Fort  Lar- 
amie.  At  four  miles,  passed  some  high  sandy  bluffs. 
Traveled  till  after  twelve  and  then  turned  off  a  little  to 
the  southwest  and  at  half  past  twelve  o'clock  halted  for 
noon  at  the  edge  of  lower  land  where  there  is  some  short 
green  grass  for  our  teams.  The  land  we  have  traveled 
over  this  morning  is  naked  and  barren,  course  west  of 
northwest,  distance  nine  and  a  half  miles.  A  high  wind 
from  northwest.  Latitude  42°  04'  30".  Started  again  at 
3:00  p.  m.,  weather  warm  and  wind  ceased.  At  6:45  p. 
m.  formed  our  encampment  on  the  east  bank  of  a  shoal 
stream  about  ten  feet  wide,  having  traveled'  this  afternoon 
seven  and  a  quarter  miles,  and  during  the  day  sixteen 
and  three  quarters.  Our  course  this  afternoon  a  little 
north  of  west.  About  four  miles  back,  passed  some  tim- 
ber on  this  side  of  the  river  which  is  the  first  since  the 
10th  inst.,  being  a  distance  of  215  miles  without  wood  for 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  205 

fire,  except  driftwood,  and  much  of  the  time  nothing  but 
buffalo  chips.  The  last  four  or  five  miles  have  been 
sandy,  the  ground  uneven  and  very  heavy  on  our  teams. 
The  country  looks  perfectly  barren ;  in  some  places  there 
' ;  nothing  but  a  few  weed's  and  garlick.  Some  of  the 
brethren  picked  considerable  of  the  latter  to  eat.  The 
feed  is  very  poor  indeed,  but  a  little  better  than  for  four 
miles  back.  John  S.  Higbee  has  killed  a  deer  and  soni;^ 
of  the  brethren  wounded  two  others.  This  deer  which 
Brother  Higbee  killed  is  of  the  long  tailed  species,  hav- 
ing a  tail  more  than  a  half  a  yard  long,  and  is  the  firsi 
one  I  ever  saw  of  the  kind.  A  while  after  we  camped, 
President  Young  and  Kimball  went  to  the  bluffs  and 
again  saw  the  Black  Hills  in  the  distance.  They  bowed 
before  the  Lord  and  offered  up  their  prayers  "together. 
The  month  of  May  has  passed  over  and  we  have 
been  permitted  to  proceed  so  far  on  our  journey,  being 
531  1/4  miles  from  our  families  in  Winter  Quarters,  with 
the  camp  generally  enjoying  good  health  and  good  spirits, 
and  although  some  things  have  passed  which  have 
merited  chastisement,  we  have  the  privilege  at  the  clos- 
ing of  the  month  of  seeing  a  better  feeling,  a  more  noble 
spirit,  and  a  more  general  desire  to  do  right  than  we 
have  before  witnessed.  I  feel  to  humble  myself  and  give 
God  thanks  for  his  continued  mercies  to  me  and  my 
brethren  and  may  His  spirit  fill  our  hearts  and  may  His 
angels  administer  comfort,  health,  peace  and  prosperity 
to  all  our  families  and  all  the  Saints  henceforth  and  for- 
ever. Amen. 

/TUESDAY,  JUNE  IST.    The  morning  very  fine,  warm 
artel  pleasant.    All  is  still  and  quiet  as  a  summer's  morn- 


206  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

ing,  the  camp  well  and  in  good  spirits  and  a  feeling  of 
peace,  union  and  brotherly  love  seems  to  dwell  in  every 
breast.  My  mind  revolves  back  upon  by-gone  days  and 
then  to  the  present,  and  I  truly  feel  thankful  to  my  God 
for  His  mercies  to  me  and  for  the  privilege  I  now  daily 
enjoy.  The  idea  of  dwelling  with  my  family  in  a  land  of 
peace,  in  the  midst  of  the  Saints  of  God  is  better  felt 
than  described,  but  the  mild,  still,  scenery  of  this  morn- 
ing puts  me  in  mind  of  it/  At  nine  o'clock  we  pursued 
our  journey,  the  stream  we  passed  over  is  called  by 
Grosclaude:  "The  Raw  Hide."  Elder  Kimball  let  me 
have  his  horse  to  ride.  I  went  in  company  with  George 
A.  Smith  who  was  on  foot  carrying  his  gun  in  fulfill- 
ment of  President  Young's  prophecy  at  the  Pawnee  Mis- 
sion station.  The  wagons  went  on  till  half  past  eleven 
and  then  halted  for  noon.  We  were  about  a  mile  ahead  of 
them.  The  distance  they  traveled  was  four  and  a  half 
miles.  At  half  past  one,  started  out  again  and  traveled 
till  a  little  after  four  o'clock  and  saw  Fort  Laramie  about 
four  miles  to  the  southwest.  Elder  Kimball  and  Presi- 
dent Young  then  came  up  to  where  Brother  Woodruff 
and  I  were  looking  out  for  feed  and  we  started  on,  Presi 
dent  Young  having  stopped  the  wagons,  and  went  to  the 
ford  opposite  to  the  fort.  It  was  finally  concluded  to 
form  our  encampment  here  on  the  banks  of  the  river. 
Several  men  soon  came  down  from  the  fort  which  is  about 
two  miles  from  here  and  made  themselves  known  as  a 
part  of  the  Mississippi  company  from  Pueblo.  They  have 
been  here  two  weeks.  It  caused  us  much  joy  to  meet 
with  brethren  in  this  wild  region  of  country  and  also 
because  we  should  have  some  news  from  the  brethren  in 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  207 

the  army.  Luke  Johnson  being  up  here  with  the  boat  and 
several  others  coming  up,  they  got  the  boat  into  the  rive/ 
to  go  over  and  see  the  brethren.  And  Luke  Johnson, 
John  Brown,  Joseph  Mathews  and  Porter  Rockwell 
started  over  and  about  the  same  time,  Presidents  Young 
and  Kimball  started  back  to  bring  the  camp  up.  When 
the  brethren  got  over  the  river  Brother  Brown  met  s<-\  - 
eral  whom  he  knew  and  soon  returned  bringing  -Brother 
Crow  and  his  son-in-law  over  to  this  side.  The  brethren 
seemed  pleased  to  meet  us.  Brother  Crow  reports  deaths 
in  the  Pueblo  detachment  since  Brothers  Tippets  an*1 
\Voolsey  left,  viz.  Melcher  Oyler,  Arnold  Stevens.  They 
2'SO  state  that  Soloman  Tindall  was  on  the  point  of 
death.  The  other  portion  of  the  battalion  they  had  not 
heard  from.  The  Pueblo  brethren  are  expected  to  receive 
their  pay  and  start  for  this  point,  at  latest  by  this  date, 
and  will  probably  be  here  in  about  two  weeks.  They 
also  recorded  that  three  traders  from  the  mountains  ar- 
rived here  six  days  ago,  having  come  from  Sweet  Water 
in  six  days  and  nights.  They  traveled  day  and  night  with 
horses  and  mules  to  prevent  their  starving  to  death  as 
there  is  no  feed  up  there.  Two  of  their  oxen  had  died 
already,  etc.  The  snow  was  two  feet  deep  at  Sweet 
Water  when  they  left,  so  that  we  are  evidently  plenty 
soon  enough  for  feed.  At  5  :45  the  wagons  arrived  and 
formed  encampment  on  the  banks  of  the  river  in  the 
form  of  a  V,  having  traveled  this  afternoon,  seven  and 
a  half  miles  and  during  the  day,  twelve,  making  a  total 
from  Winter  Quarters  to  Fort  Laramie  543  1/4  miles  and 
we  have  traveled  it  in  seven  weeks  lacking  a  half  a  day, 
but  we  have  traveled  but  a  few  miles  on  Sundays.  We 


208  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

have  arrived  so  far  on  our  journey  without  accident  ex- 
cept the  loss  of  two  horses  by  Indians  and  two  killed.  We 
have  been  prosperous  on  our  journey,  the  camp  are  all  in 
better  health  than  when  we  left  Winter  Quarters  and  we 
see  daily  that  the  Lord  blesses  us  and  directs  the  move- 
ments of  this  camp  as  seemeth  Him  good  and  as  is  for 
our  good  and  prosperity.  The  road  today  has  been  mostly 
sandy  and  heavy  on  teams  with  but  little  feed  in  any 
place.  The  country  begins  to  have  a  more  hilly  and  moun- 
tainous appearance.  Some  of  the  Black  Hills  show  very 
plain  from  here.  The  timber  is  mostly  ash  and  cotton- 
wood  on  the  low  bottoms  near  the  river.  There  is  some 
cedar  on  the  bluffs.  In  one  of  the  large  ash  trees  in  the 
middle  of  the  camp  is  an  Indian  babe  or  papoose.  It 
cannot  be  said  to  be  buried,  but  deposited,  being  first 
wrapped  with  a  skin  and  then  tied  between  two  of  the 
highest  limbs  of  the  tree.  This  is  said  to  be  the  way  they 
bury  their  dead.  The  bark  is  all  peeled  off  the  tree  be- 
low, I  suppose  to  prevent  the  wolves  from  getting  up. 

WEDNESDAY,  2ND.  The  morning  pleasant.  About 
nine  o'clock  started  over  the  river  in  company  with  the 
Twelve  and  others  to  view  the  fort  and  also  learn  some- 
thing in  regard  to  our  journey,  etc.  Elder  Pratt  meas- 
ured the  distance  across  the  river  at  this  spot  and  found 
it  to  be  108  yards.  The  water  is  deep  in  the  channel  and 
the  current  runs  about  four  miles  an  hour.  After  cross- 
ing we  went  up  to  the  remains  of  an  old  fort  called  Fort 
Platte  which  is  near  the  banks  of  the  river,  the  out- 
side walls  still  standing,  but  the  inside  is  in  ruins,  having 
been  burned  up.  The  walls  are  built  of  adobes  or  Span- 
ish brick,  being  large  pieces  of  tempered  clay  dried  in 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  209 

the  sun  and  apparently  laid  one  on  another  without  mortar 
or  cement.  The  dimensions  of  this  fort  outside  are  144 
feet  east  to  west,  and  from  north  to  south  103  feet.  There 
is  a  large  door  fronting  to  the  south  which  has  led  to 
the  dwellings  which  have  been  fourteen  in  number,  built 
in  the  form  of  a  parallelogram,  leaving  a  large  space  in 
the  center.  The  space  occupied  by  the  dwelling  is  not 
quite  half  of  the  whole  fort.  Fronting  to  the  east  is  an- 
other large  door  which  opens  upon  a  large  open  space 
98%  feet  by  47  feet  where  it  is  supposed  they  used  to 
keep  horses,  etc.  At  the  northwest  corner  is  a  tower 
projecting  out  from  the  line  of  the  walls  six  feet  each 
way,  or,  in  other  words  it  is  twelve  feet  square  with  port 
holes  for  cannon.  At  the  northeast  corner  has  been  an- 
other projection  extending  eastward  29l/2  feet  and  is 
19  1/2  feet  wide.  The  walls  are  11  feet  high  and  30 
inches  thick.  We  took  the  dimensions  of  this  with  a  tape 
line  and  then  proceeded  to  Fort  Laramie  about  two  miles 
farther  west.  This  latter  fort  was  first  built  of  wood 
about  thirteen  years  since,  and  named  Fort  William,  but 
being  destroyed  was  afterwards  built  seven  years  ago 
with  adobes  and  named  John.  It  stands  on  the  bank  of 
the  Laramie  fork.  Laramie  fork  is  a  stream  forty-one 
yards  wide,  a  very  swift  current,  but  not  deep.  We  tar- 
ried a  little  while  with  the  Mississippi  brethren  who  have 
camped  close  by  the  fort  and  then  went  inside.  We  were 
politely  welcomed  by  Mr.  Bordeau  who  appears  to  be 
the  principal  %officer.  He  conducted  us  up  a  flight  of 
stairs  into  a  comfortable  room  and  being  furnished  with 
seats,  we  rested  ourselves.  President  Young  and  others 
entered  into  conversation  with  Mr.  Bordeau.  From  him 

15 


210  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

we  learned  that  we  cannot  travel  over  four  miles  farther 
on  the  north  side  the  Platte  before  we  come  to  bluffs 
which  cannot  be  crossed  with  loaded  wagons.  The  road 
is  better  on  this  side  than  the  one  we  have  traveled,  it 
being  hard  and  not  sandy.  Feed  scarce  mostly  lying  in 
little  patches  near  the  river.  They  send  their  furs  to 
Fort  Pierre  on  the  Missoui  river  a  distance  of  400  miles 
by  land  and  receive  all  their  stores  and  provisions  back 
by  the  same  teams,  except  their  meat  which  they  kill, 
there  being  buffalo  within  two  days'  drive.  They  have 
tried  making  a  garden  and  planting  corn  which  did  well 
enough  the  first  year,  but  afterwards  they  could  raise  noth 
ing  for  want  of  rain.  They  have  had  no  rain  for  two  years 
until  a  few  days  ago.  They  have  got  a  flat  boat  which 
will  carry  two  wagons  easily  which  we  can  have  for 
fifteen  dollars  or  he  will  ferry  us  over  for  $18.00  or  25c 
a  wagon.  From  the  door  of  this  room  one  can  see  the 
same  black  hill  seen  on  Sunday  evening  and  which  is 
Laramie  Peak.  We  could  see  the  snow  lying  on  it  very 
plainly.  We  can  also  see  several  ranges  of  high  hills  in 
the  distance  which  are  no  doubt  parts  of  the  Black  Hills. 
We  went  across  the  square  to  the  trading  house  which  lies 
on  the  north  side  of  the  western  entrance.  The  trader 
opened  his  store  and  President  Young  entered  into  con- 
versation with  him.  They  trade  solely  with  the  Sioux. 
The  Crows  come  here  for  nothing  but  to  steal.  A  fe\v 
weeks  ago  a  party  came  down  and  stole  twenty-five 
horses,  all  that  they  had  at  the  fort,  although  they  were 
within  300  yards  of  the  fort  at  the  time  and  a  guard 
around  them.  The  Sioux  will  not  steal  on  their  own  land. 
A  pair  of  moccasins  are  worth  a  dollar,  a  lariat  a  dollar. 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  211 

a  pound  of  tobacco  a  dollar  and  a  half,  and  a  gallon  of 
whiskey  $32.00.  They  have  no  sugar,  coffee  or  spices  as 
their  spring  stores  have  not  yet  arrived.  They  have  lately 
sent  to  Fort  Pierre,  600  bales  of  robes  with  ten  robes  in 
each  bale.  Their  wagons  have  been  gone  forty-five  days, 
etc.  The  blacksmith  shop  lies  on  the  south  side  of  the 
western  entrance.  There  are  dwellings  inside  the  fort  be- 
side that  of  Mr.  Bordeau's.  The  south  end  is  divided 
off  and  occupied  for  stables,  etc.  There  are  many  souls 
at  this  fort,  mostly  French,  half-breeds,  and  a  few  Sioux 
Indians.  Elder  Pratt  measured  the  river  and  found  it 
forty-one  yards.  He  also  took  the  latitude  which  was 
42°  12'  13".  Brother  Bullock  told  me  that  several  of  the 
brethren  had  picked  up  a  number  of  beads  off  the  ant 
hills.  Curiosity  led  me  to  go  and  examine  and  I  found 
it  even  so.  It  appears  that  the  ants  gather  all  the  small 
pebbles  they  can  carry  and  build  them  over  their  hills  to 
prevent  the  strong  winds  from  blowing  them  away,  and 
amongst  the  rest,  they  picked  up  beads  which  have  been 
lost  off  the  Indians'  moccasins  and  robes,  etc.  I  picked 
up  quite  a  number.  Brother  Bullock  and  I  took  the  di- 
mensions of  the  fort  which  will  be  given  in  another  place. 
We  then  got  on  board  the  boat  and  had  a  pleasant  ride 
about  three  miles  down  the  Laramie  fork  to  its  mouth, 
the  current  being  very  swift.  At  the  mouth,  the  brethren 
mostly  got  on  shore  and  towed  the  boat  up  to  camp. 
After  dinner  I  went  over  again  in  the  cutter  which  was 
going  to  fish  with  the  seine  in  the  Laramie  fork.  They 
caught  sixty  or  seventy  small  fish,  salmon,  suckers,  etc. 
About  six  o'clock  we  returned  to  camp.  ,  The  Twelve 
have  decided  that  Amasa  Lyman  shall  go  with  Brothers 


212  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

Woolsey,  Tippets  and  Stevens  to  Pueblo.  They  start  to- 
morrow. Longitude  at  Fort  Laramie  104°  11'  53".  I 
have  seen  three  birds  here  which  very  much  resemble 
the  English  magpie  in  size,  shape  and  color,  in  fact  I 
know  of  no  difference  between  the  (two.  We  passed  a 
number  of  currant  bushes  about  four  miles  back,  quite 
thick  with  young,  green  currants.  On  the  morning  of  the 
4th  of  June,  I  put  up  a  guide  board  on  the  north  side  of 
the  river  at  the  ferry  with  the  following  inscription  on 
it,  viz.  Winter  Quarters  543  1/4  miles,  junction  of  the 
forks  227  1/2  miles,  Ash  Hollow  142  1/4  miles,  Chimney 
Rock  70  1/4  miles,  Scott's  Bluffs  50  1/2  miles.  Wm. 
Clayton,  June  4,  1847.  Elder  Pratt  took  the  altitude  of 
Fort  Laramie  and  found  it  to  be  4090  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  Fremont  makes  4470,  differing  380  feet. 

THURSDAY,  3RD.  The  morning  cold  with  strong 
southeast  wind.  The  first  division  commenced  ferrying 
over  the  river  at  five  o'clock  and  took  a  wagon 
over  every  fifteen  minutes.  After  breakfast  I 
went  over  and  wrote  a  letter  for  Elder  Kim- 
ball  to  James  Brown  at  Pueblo,  then  walked  up  to  a 
high  bluff  on  the  northwest  to  view  the  country,  but  not 
being  able  to  see  far  from  it,  I  went  to  another  over  a 
mile  farther  northwest.  Although  this  last  was  very 
high  I  could  see  nothing  but  a  succession  of  high  ranges 
of  bluffs  as  far  as  I  could  see,  except  the  narrow  space 
through  which  the  river  winds  its  course.  Seeing  some 
heavy  thunder  clouds  rising  very  rapidly  from  the  north- 
west I  returned  to  camp  and  arrived  just  before  the  rain 
commenced.  Elders  A.  Lyman,  Thomas  Woolsey,  John 
H.  Tippets  and  Roswell  Stevens  started  at  11:15  on 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  213 

horses  and  mules  for  Pueblo.  President  Young,  Kim- 
ball,  Richards  and  Pratt  accompanied  them  to  the  Lara- 
mie  fork  and  then  held  a  council,  kneeled  down  and  dedi- 
cated them  to  God  and  blessed  them.  The  four  then 
forded  the  river  and  went  on  their  journey,  the  others 
returned  to  camp.  At  half  past  1 :00  p.  m.  it  commenced 
raining  heavily  accompanied  by  hail,  lightning  and  very 
loud  thunder,  which  lasted  till  3  :30  p.  m.  During  the 
storm,  the  horses  were  mostly  secured  in  the  old  fort. 
The  ferrying  ceased  till  it  was  fair  again,  and  about  five 
o'clock  the  first  division  were  all  over.  The  boat  was 
then  manned  by  the  second  division,  John  S.  Higbee, 
captain.  They  averaged  a  wagon  across  in  eleven  min- 
utes and  one  in  ten  minutes  and  one  in  ten  minutes  and 
twenty  seconds.  The  quickest  trip  made  by  the  first  di- 
vision was  thirteen  minutes.  About  seven  o'clock  it  com- 
menced raining  again  from  the  southeast  and  rained 
heavily,  consequently  the  brethren  quit  ferrying,  leaving 
three  companies  of  about  fifteen  wagons  on  the  other 
side.  All  the  wagons  would  have  been  taken  over  today 
if  it  had  not  been  stormy. 

There  is  a  report  come  in  that  there  are  2,000 
wagons  on  the  road  to  Oregon,  but  a  little  distance  be- 
hind, but  we  are  satisfied  the  report  is  exaggerated.  There 
are  eighteen  wagons  camped  about  three  miles  below  and 
one  of  the  men  who  has  come  to  the  fort  says  that  they 
have  counted  over  500  wagons.  They  have  lost  four 
horses  by  the  Indians. 

FRIDAY,  4xH.  Morning  very  fine.  Laramie  peak 
shows  very  plain.  The  brethren  commenced  ferrying  at 
4  :40  a.  m.,  and  at  eight  o'clock  the  last  wagon  was  over. 


214  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

I  walked  up  to  a  high  bluff  with  Carlos  Murray  and 
picked  up  some  stalactites  clear  as  crystal  supposed  to  be 
isinglass.  The  bluff  is  very  high  and  almost  perpendicu- 
lar and  it  is  dangerous  to  get  to  the  crystals. 

At  nine  o'clock  President  Young,  Kimball,  W.  Rich- 
ards, A.  P.  Rockwood  and  T.  Bullock  walked  up  to  Fort 
Laramie  and  returned  soon  after  eleven  o'clock.  They 
have  learned  very  favorable  reports  about  Bear  River 
Valley,  being  well  timbered,  plenty  of  good  grass,  light 
winters,  little  snow  and  abundance  of  fish,  especially 
spotted  trout,  in  the  streams.  About  half  past  eleven 
o'clock  Brother  Crow's  company  came  down  and  joined 
in  with  the  second  division  and  at  twelve  we  started  on 
our  journey  again,  following  the  Oregon  road.  We  trav- 
eled three  miles  and  at  20  minutes  past  1 :00,  halted  near 
some  good  grass  to  let  our  teams  feed.  The  weather  is 
very  warm  though  many  light  clouds  are  flying.  The 
bluffs  come  near  the  river  and  are  very  high,  steep,  and 
look  like  sand.  During  the  halt  I  went  up  on  a  very 
high  bluff  near  by  with  my  glass.  I  found  it  very  diffi- 
cult of  ascent.  From  the  top  I  could  see  Laramie  peak 
very  plainly  and  also  some  hills  a  long  way  off  to  the 
northwest.  The  country  looks  very  hilly  as  far  as  can  be 
seen  and  the  snow  on  the  peak  shows  quite  plain.  At  half 
past  two  we  continued  our  journey  and  found  the  road 
sandy  and  very  uneven.  At  the  distance  of  seven  and 
three  quarters  miles  from  Fort  Laramie  we  descended  a 
very  steep  pitch  or  hill.  All  the  wagons  had  to  be  locked 
and  we  were  some  time  getting  down.  We  went  on  half 
a  mile  farther  and  formed  our  encampment  in  a  circle 
at  half  past  five,  having  traveled  eight  and  a  quarter  miles 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  215 

today.  At  half  past  five  we  had  a  shower  accompanied 
by  a  little  lightning  and  heavy  thunder.  I  will  now  give 
the  list  of  names  of  Brother  Crow's  company  who  have 
joined  the  camp  today  to  go  with  this  pioneer  camp. 
They  are  as  follows : 

Robert  Crow,  Elizabeth  Crow,  Benjamin  B.  Crow, 
Elizabeth  Jane  Crow,  John  McHenry  Crow,  Walter  H. 
Crow,  Geo.  W.  Therlkill,  Matilla  Jane  Therlkill,  Milton 
Howard  Therlkill,  James  William  Therlkill,  William 
Parker  Crow,  Isa  Vinda  Exene  Crow,  Ira  Minda  Alma- 
rene  Crow,  Archibald  Little,  James  Chesney  and  Lewis 
B.  Myers,  seventeen  in  number,  making  the  total  number 
of  souls  in  this  pioneer  camp,  after  deducting  four  gone 
to  Pueblo,  161. 

Lewis  B.  Myers  is  represented  as  knowing  the  coun- 
try to  the  mountains,  having  traveled  it  and  I  am  told 
that  he  came  as  a  guide  to  Brother  Crow.  They  have 
five  wagons,  one  cart,  eleven  horses,  twenty-four  oxen, 
twenty-two  cows,  three  bulls  and  seven  calves. 

Inasmuch  as  there  have  been  some  changes  in  horses 
and  mules.  I  will  endeavor  to  state  them  and  give  the 
number  we  started  with  from  Fort  Laramie.  Two  horses 
killed  by  accident.  Two  horses  stolen  by  the  Pawnees 
at  Gravel  creek ;  one  mule  traded  for  a  pony  by  Brother 
Markham ;  three  horses  and  one  mule  gone  with  the 
brethren  to  Pueblo :  one  horse  traded  by  O.  P.  Rockwell 
for  three  cows  and  two  calves ;  one  horse  traded  by  John 
Pack  for  three  buffalo  robes;  one  horse  traded  by  T. 
Brown  for  a  pony  at  Laramie :  one  pony  traded  by  J.  S. 
Higbee  to  the  Sioux  for  a  pony.  These  changes  with  the 
addition  made  by  Brother  Crow's  company  make  the 


216  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

number  as  follows:  horses  95,  mules  51,  head  of  oxen 
100,  cows  41,  bulls  3,  calves  7,  dogs  and  chickens,  and 
77  wagons  and  1  cart. 

SATURDAY,  STH.  The  morning'  pleasant  though 
somewhat  cloudy.  Elder  Kimball  gave  George  Billings 
a  lecture  about  abusing  his  team,  kicking  them,  etc.  He 
gave  George  some  very  good  advice.  The  horn  sounded 
early  to  start  but  we  were  detained  till  half  past  eight  on 
account  of  several  oxen  being  missing.  About  that  time 
they  were  found  and  we  pursued  our  journey.  After  trav- 
eling a  little  over  four  miles  we  ascended  a  steep  bluff. 
The  road  runs  on  the  top  of  it  a  little  distance  in  a  very 
crooked  direction,  the  surface  in  some  places  being  hard, 
uneven  rock,  which  shakes  and  jars  the  wagons  very 
much.  In  one  place  there  is  a  little  descent  and  at  the 
bottom  a  very  sharp  turn  in  the  road  over  rough  rock. 
Here  Brother  Crow's  cart  turned  over.  However,  it  was 
soon  righted  and  no  injury  done  to  anything.  At  the  west 
foot  is  a  steep,  sandy  descent  but  not  difficult.  The  bluff 
is  a  half  a  mile  across.  About  a  half  a  mile  from  the 
west  foot  we  turned  from  the  river  nearly  a  west  course 
and  crossed  a  low  gravelly  channel  where  it  appears  the 
river  has  run  sometime  and  perhaps  does  now  in  high 
water. 

The  road  after  this  is  considerably  crooked  and  un- 
even. About  a  mile  and  a  quarter  farther  we  descended 
again  on  the  same  gravelly  channel  and  traveled  up  it  a 
piece  and  at  11 :35  halted  for  noon  opposite  a  very  large 
spring  noticed  by  Fremont.  The  water  of  this  spring  is 
very  clear  and  soft,  but  considerably  warmer  than  the 
river  water.  We  have  traveled  this  morning-  six  and  a 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  217 

half  miles.    Just  as  we  halted,  two  men  came  down  from 
the  other  road  on  mules  to  water.    They  are  in  company 
with  eleven  wagons  and  bound  for  west  of  the  mountains. 
They  say  the  other  road  from  Laramie  is  only  ten  miles 
to  the  spring  while  our     road  has  been  14  3/4  miles. 
About  a  half  an  hour  after  we  stopped,  we  had  a  nicc 
shower.     The  1st  division  halted  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  back  from  here.    Latitude  at  the  warm  springs  42° 
15'  6".     While  we  were  halting,  the  company  above  re- 
ferred to  passed  down  the  bluffs  and  went  ahead  of  us. 
They  have  got  many  cows,  etc?.,  with  them.     At  1 :40  p. 
m.  we  resumed  our  journey.     After  traveling  a  mile  we 
turned  in  a  narrow  pass  to  the  northwest  between  two 
high  bluffs  and  traveled  a  quarter  of  a  mile  farther,  then 
came  to  where  the  road  rises  a  very  high,  steep  bluff. 
At  the  foot  is  a  short  sudden  pitch  and  then  a  rugged 
ascent  for  a  quarter  of  a  mile.     The  bluff  is  rocky  and 
many  large  cobble  stones  lay  in  the  road  which  made  it 
hard  on  teams.    Appleton  Harmon  took  one  of  his  yoke 
of    cattle  and  assisted  George    Billings  to  the  top  and 
Brother  Johnson  took  Appleton's  steers  and  put  them  for- 
ward of  his  and  brought  up  his  wagon.     Appleton  and 
Johnson  then  took  the  three  yoke  of  oxen  and  fetched  up 
Appleton's  wagon  which  threw  us  nearly  in  the  rear  of 
all  the  wagons,  none  of  the  rest  doubling  teams.     After 
arriving  on  the  top  the  road  was  good  but  still  rising  for 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  farther.     We  traveled  on  this  high 
land  five  and  a  quarter  miles  which  was  very  good  travel- 
ing although  it  was  considerably  rolling.     Four  and  a 
half  miles  from  the  top  of  the  last  mentioned  bluff,  we 
passed  a  large  lone  rock,  standing  far  away  from  any 


218  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

other.  At  five  and  a  quarter  miles  we  descended  again 
from  the  bluff,  the  descent  being  steep  and  lengthy  but 
sandy  and  good  to  travel.  At  the  foot  of  the  blu^f  we 
again  crossed  the  gravelly  channel  and  traveled  on  and 
alongside  about  a  mile,  then  descended  a  little  to  the  bot- 
tom prairie  again.  At  6:30  we  formed  our  encampment 
on  the  west  bank  of  a  small  stream  and  near  a  very  good 
spring  of  cold  water,  having  traveled  this  afternoon 
10  1/2  miles  and  during  the  day  seventeen. 

I  have  put  up  two  guide  boards  today.  One  at  10 
and  the  other  at  20  miles  from  Fort  John  or  Laramie, 
but  the  former  name  is  on  the  guide  boards.  The  bluffs 
we  have  passed  today  are  mostly  very  high,  rocky  and 
broken,  with  pine  growing  on  most  or  nearly  all  of  them. 
We  have  pretty  good  feed  here  and  plenty  of  wood  and 
good  water.  The  gentile  camp  is  a  little  east  of  us.  Thev 
say  that  there  were  two  more  companies  arrived  at  Fort 
Laramie  this  morning  as  they  left,  and  three  other  com- 
panies within  twenty  miles  of  Laramie.  They  left  this 
morning.  They  left  Independence  on  the  22nd  of  April. 
They  are  expecting  the  mail  soon  on  mules,  but  they 
anticipate  keeping  ahead  of  all  the  companies.  We  find 
the  road  very  crooked,  but  not  bad  traveling.  About 
dark  it  rained  some,  accompanied  by  lightning  and 
thunder.  The  camp  was  notified  that  tomorrow  will  be 
a  day  for  fasting  and  prayer  as  last  Sunday. 

SUNDAY,  6xn.  Morning  cloudy,  cool,  and  like  for 
rain.  At  eight  o'clock  the  eleven  wagons  passed  us 
again.  At  nine  the  brethren  assembled  for  prayer  meet- 
ing a  little  from  the  camp,,  but  many  kept  about  their 
wagons,  some  washing  and  some  at  other  things.  At 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  219 

eleven  o'clock,  four  Missourians  came  up  mounted,  being 
part  of  a  company  a  little  behind.  Some  of  these  are 
recognized  by  the  brethren  and  they  seem  a  little  afraid 
and  not  fond  of  our  company.  They  say  the  old  settlers 
have  all  fled  from  Shariton,  Missouri,  except  two  tav- 
ern keepers,  and  I  feel  to  wish  that  their  fears  may  fol- 
low them  even  to  Oregon.  At  half  past  eleven  just  as  the 
brethren  again  assembled  for  meeting  it  commenced  rain- 
ing hard,  accompanied  by  lightning  and  heavy  thunder 
which  caused  the  meeting  to  break  up  abruptly.  During 
the  storm,  the  Missouri  company  passed  by  us,  having 
nineteen  wagons  and  two  carriages.  Most  of  their  wagons 
have  five  yoke  of  cattle  to  each,  and  few  less  than  four. 
They  have  many  cows,  horses  and  young  cattle  with 
them.  They  have  a  guide  with  them  who  lives  on  the 
St.  Mary's  River  at  the  Columbia.  He  says  we  shall 
find  water  again  about  six  miles  from  here  and  then  no 
more  for  fifteen  miles  farther.  It  was  then  considered 
wise  to  move  on  this  afternoon  as  we  cannot  well  reach 
the  second  watering  place  in  one  day.  Soon  after  twelve 
o'clock  the  weather  cleared  off,  the  sun  shone  and  looks 
like  for  being  fine.  The  wind  blows  strong  from  the 
west.  At  half  past  2  :00  p.  m.  the  camp  began  to  move 
forward.  About  three  quarters  of  a  mile  we  crossed  the 
same  small  stream  again,  and  two  miles  further  arrived 
at  a  sudden  bend  in  the  road  to  the  south  about  two  hun- 
dred yards  and  then  as  sudden  to  the  north  the  same  dis- 
tance occasioned  by  the  water  having  washed  a  deep 
gulf  where  the  road  ought  to  run.  A  mile  beyond  this 
the  wagons  came  to  a  halt  in  a  body  of  timber  and  brush- 
wood at  four  o'clock,  and  halted  while  the  brethren  on 


220  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

horseback,  viz.  Elder  Ypung,  Kimball  and  Woodruff, 
went  ahead  to  look  for  a  camping  ground.  They  returned 
at  4:40  and  the  camp  proceeded  on.  Having  proceeded 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  we  passed  the  camp  of  the  nineteen 
wagons  close  by  the  timber  a  little  south  of  the  road. 
Several  of  the  men  came  to  look  at  the  roadometer,  hav- 
ing heard  from  some  of  the  brethren  that  we  had  one. 
They  expressed  a  wish  to  each  other  to  see  inside  and 
looked  upon  it  as  a  curiosity.  I  paid  no  attention  to  them 
inasmuch  as  they  did  not  address  themselves  to  me.  At 
a  quarter  past  5 :00  p.  m.  we  formed  our  encampment 
in  an  oblong  circle,  at  the  foot  of  a  low  bluff  on  the 
west  and  close  by  water,  having  traveled  five .  miles. 
The  feed  here  is  very  good  and  plentiful.  Wind  strong 
from  the  west.  Road  very  crooked,  mostly  a  southwest 
and  west  course.  There  is  plenty  of  timber  all  along  and 
the  soil  looks  good  on  the  low  lands.  One  of  the  men  in 
the  company  of  the  nineteen  wagons  told  G.  A.  Smith 
that  he  had  broken  his  carriage  spring  and  seemed  much 
troubled  to  know  what  to  do  to  get  along.  He  asked 
George  if  there  was  any  man  in  our  company  who  could 
fix  it.  George  told  him  there  was.  After  we  were 
camped,  Burr  Frost  set  up  his  forge  and  welded  the 
spring  ready  to  put  on  before  dark. 

MONDAY,  ?TH.  Morning  fine.  Elder  Pratt  gave 
me  some  instructions  on  the  use  of  the  sextant  and 
showed  me  how  to  take  an  observation.  He  has  prom- 
ised to  teach  me  to  take  observations  and  calculate  lati- 
tude and  longtitude  and  I  intend  to  improve  the  oppor- 
tunity. At  6:30  the  Missouri  company  passed  through 
again.  And  at  ten  minutes  past  seven  we  commenced 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  221 

our  onward  course.  Dr.  Richards  left  a  letter  in  a  guide 
board  30  1/4  miles  to  Fort  John.  I  walked  about  five 
miles  mostly  in  company  with  Elder  Pratt  conversing  on 
astronomy  and  philosophical  subjects.  Elder  Kimball 
then  let  me  have  his  horse  to  ride.  We  traveled  till 
eleven  o'clock  and  then  halted  to  feed  on  the  west  bank 
of  a  small  stream  and  spring  of  clear  water,  having  trav- 
eled 7  3/4  miles,  mostly  a  north  of  northwest  course.  The 
road  more  even  and  good  traveling.  Soon  after  we  halted, 
another  company  of  Missourians  passed  us,  having  thir- 
teen wagons  and  mostly  four  yoke  of  oxen  to  each.  Thev 
say  they  are  from  Andrew  County,  Missouri.  At  12 :35 
we  moved  forward.  At  a  quarter  of  a  mile  began  to 
ascend  a  bluff  which  was  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the 
bottom  to  the  top,  the  ascent  gradual  and  tolerably  steep. 
From  the  top  of  this  hill  we  had  as  pleasant  a  view  of  the 
surrounding  country  as  I  have  ever  witnessed.  Laramie 
peak  appears  only  a  few  miles  to  the  southwest,  and  from 
that  around  to  the  west,  north,  and  northeast,  a  very  ex- 
tensive view  of  a  beautiful  country  for  many  miles, 
indeed,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  survey.  From  a  fair  view 
of  the  peak  I  am  satisfied  that  the  Black  Hills,  of  which 
this  is  a  prominent  part,  are  so  named  from  the  vast 
forests  of  pine  trees  covering  their  surface  and  being  of 
a  dark  green  color  within  a  few  miles  of  them.  The  pine 
grows  in  the  most  rocky  places  and  abounds  on  the  high- 
est hills,  while  on  the  lower  bluffs  it  is  sparcely  scattered 
and  in  the  bottom  land,  which  looks  rich  and  good,  there 
are  none.  We  have  passed  many  noble  trees  and  there 
is  no  lack  of  good  pine  timber  in  this  region.  The  peak 
is  very  high,  and  very  broken  and  craggy,  the  snow  still 


222  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

lying  on  its  summit  and  plainly  visible  with  the  naked 
eye.  The  ridge  over  which  we  passed  was  a  half  a  mile 
over  from  the  southeast  to  the  northwest  foot.  At  that 
distance  we  began  to  descend  and  had  to  lock  the  wagons 
in  sveral  places.  The  descent  was  rendered  unpleasant 
by  the  many  large  cobble  stones  scattered  in  the  road. 
Many  of  the  brethren  threw  them  out  of  the  road  as  we 
went  along  and  the  road  is  much  improved.  They  have 
also  dug  down  some  places  and  leveled  others,  which  will 
make  the  road  much  better  for  other  companies.  At  half 
past  three  we  arrived  at  Horse  Creek  and  formed  our  en- 
campment on  the  bottom  land  near  the  timber  or  rather 
in  the  midst  of  a  'grove  of  ash,  cottonwood,  etc.,  having 
traveled  five  and  a  quarter  miles  this  afteroon  over 
crooked  road  and  during  the  day,  thirteen  miles.  On 
this  camp  ground  is  one  of  the  clearest  and  largest 
springs  of  water  I  have  seen  for  a  long  time.  Elder  Kim- 
ball  having  discovered  it,  he  calls  it  his  spring  or  Heber's 
spring.  The  creek  is  also  clear  and  said  to  have  trout 
in  it.  The  feed  is  much  better  and  more  plentiful  than 
we  have  ever  met  with  on  this  journey.  There  is  abund- 
ance of  wild  mint  and  sage  growing  here ;  the  mint  seems 
to  perfume  the  air.  The  sage  grows  in  abundance  on  all 
this  sandy  land.  There  are  also  many  wild  currant  bushes 
in  full  bloom  and  prickley  pears  all  along  the  road.  The 
other  companies  were  all  within  two  miles  when  we  ar- 
rived here,  but  mostly  going  on  a  few  miles  farther. 
A  little  before  we  stopped,  we  had  a  thunder  storm  which 
lasted  upwards  of  an  hour.  During  the  latter  part  of  it, 
it  rained  very  heavily  accompanied  by  hail  and  thunder 
and  lightning.  Our  hunters  have  killed  a  long  tailed  deer 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  223 

and  an  antelope,  which  were  distributed  as  usual.  Brother 
Crow's  hunter  also  killed  a  deer,  but  they  are  unwilling 
to  conform  to  the  rules  of  the  camp  in  dividing  and  re- 
serve it  all  to  themselves.  Brother  Crow  observed  that  if 
they  got  more  than  they  could  use  they  would  be  willing 
to  let  the  camp  have  some.  Some  of  the  other  compan- 
ies killed  an  antelope,  took  off  the  quarters  and  left  the 
balance  on  the  ground.  Brother  Pack  picked  it  up  and 
brought  it  along.  After  we  stopped  Brother  Crow  came 
near  meeting  with  an  accident  while  endeavoring  to  yoke 
up  a  pair  of  wild  steers.  It  took  a  number  of  men  to 
hold  them,  having  lariats  on  their  saddle-horns.  They 
got  the  lariats  entangled  round  their  legs  and  Brother 
Crow  also,  throwing  one  of  the  steers  down  and  he  fast 
vvith  it.  They  cut  the  rope  and  he  was  liberated  with- 
out injury.  Myers,  the  hunter,  roasts  the  young  antlers 
of  tht  deer  and  eats  them.  In  regard  to  Brother  Crow's 
meat,  etc.,  I  aftrwards  learned  that  the  whole  family  had 
to  depend  on  Mrers  for  what  they  eat,  having  no  bread 
stuff,  nor  anything  only  what  he  kills,  and  the  little  flour 
and  meal  paid  to  him  for  a  part  of  the  ferryage,  he  hav- 
ig  a. small  claim  on  Bordeau.  After  supper,  walked  out 
with  Elder  Kimball  and  was  joined  by  George  A.  Smith. 
Brother  Smith  told  me  of  a  good  opportunity  of  sending 
a  letter  to  my  family  by  some  traders  who  are  expected 
down  every  day  and  I  feel  to  improve  the  opportunity. 
We  had  a  very  strong  wind  at  night,  so  much  that  I  could 
not  write. 

TUESDAY,  STH.  Morning  fine  though  cool.  At  half 
past  seven  lwe  proceeded  on  our  journey  crossing  the 
Horseshoe  creek,  which  is  about  a  rod  wide.  We  trav- 


224  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

eled  two  and  a  quarter  miles,  winding  around  the  foot  of 
high  bluffs  and  then  began  to  ascend  them.  We  found 
this  ascent  the  worst  we  have  ever  had,  being  three 
quarters  of  a  mile  up,  and  having  in  that  distance  seven 
very  steep  rises.  On  most  of  them  the  teams  had  to 
double.  We  saw  a  buffalo  about  a  half  a  mile  to  the 
south  which  is  the  first  we  have  seen  since  about  the  21st 
of  May.  Two  and  a  half  miles  from  the  east  foot  of 
the  last  bluff  we  passed  over  a  small  creek,  nearly  dry, 
and  then  ascended  another  high  bluff  but  not  nearly  so 
bad  a  rise  as  the  other  one.  At  11 :45  we  halted  for  noon 
near  a  very  small  creek  with  but  little  water  in  it,  hav- 
ing traveled  six  and  three  quarters  miles  over  hills  and 
valleys,  the  roads  being  very  crooked.  About  half  an 
hour  before  we  halted,  Harriet  Crow  got  run  over  with 
one  of  their  wagons.  The  teams  had  stopped  near  the 
descent  from  the  bluffs  and  she  stepped  on  the  wagon 
tongue  to  get  a  drink.  The  cattle  started  suddenly,  threw 
her  under  the  wheel  which  passed  over  her  leg  below  the 
knee  and  downwards,  passing  over  her  foot  above  the 
toes.  She  screamed  and  appeared  in  great  agony.  We 
thought  her  leg  was  broken,  but  were  soon  satisfied  to 
the  contrary.  Her  foot  was  badly  bruised  but  I  think 
there  was  nothing  broken.  One  of  the  women  washed 
it  with  camphor.  She  was  then  put  into  a  wagon  and  we 
proceeded  on.  Latitude  42°  29'  58". 

At  1 :40  we  proceeded.  After  traveling  a  little  over 
a  mile  and  a  half  we  passed  another  small  creek,  and 
again  ascended  a  high  bluff.  We  found  this  ridge  more 
uneven  than  the  other,  it  being  a  perfect  succession  of 
hills  and  hollows  for  five  miles.  The  road  was  good  and 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  225 

hard.  While  traveling  on  the  top  the  wind  blew  very 
strong  from  the  west  and  it  was  so  cold  that  we  suf- 
fered some.  The  road  over  was  indeed  very  crooked  but 
mostly  bending  to  the  north.  We  could  see  a  long  dis- 
tance from  the  top.  The  country  to  the  north  looks 
more  even  but  south  and  southwest  very  hilly  and  broken. 
At  five  miles  we  began  to  descend  gradually,  and  while 
watching  the  roadometer  I  discovered  it  did  not  work 
right  which  made  me  pay  more  attention  to  it.  At  ten 
minutes  past  six  we  crossed  a  stream  about  thirty  feet 
wide  and  nearly  two  feet  deep  with  a  very  swift  current. 
It  is  named  on  Fremont's  map  as  La  Bonte  river.  We 
formed  our  encampment  on  the  west  bank  in  the  timber 
having  traveled  this  afternoon  8  3/4  miles  and  during  the 
day  15  1/2.  The  evening  is  very  cold  and  much  appear- 
ance of  rain.  Porter  Rockwell  has  killed  a  deer  and 
someone  else  an  antelope.  Porter  says  he  has  been  on 
the  Platte  which  is  about  four  miles  from  here  follow- 
ing the  La  Bonte.  Soon  after  we  stopped,  the  men  came 
into  camp  who  were  expected  to  carry  a  letter.  They 
are  camped  about  a  mile  west  of  us.  I  finished  my  letter 
to  my  family  by  candle  light,  as  it  is  contemplated  to 
start  in  the  morning  before  breakfast  and  go  a  few  miles 
to  better  feed. 

WEDNESDAY,  9rn.  Arose  at  4:20  and  at  5:15  a.  m. 
we  moved  onward,  keeping  near  the  La  Bonte.  At  5 :45 
halted  for  breakfast  beside  the  traders'  camp,  having 
come  a  mile  and  a  quarter.  I  sent  my  letter  to  them  by 
Aaron  Farr,  a  number  of  the  brethren  also  sending  let- 
ters. While  we  halted  I /got  the  roadometer  fixed  again 
and  also  put  up  a  guide  board  marked  "To  Fort  John  60 

16 


226  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

miles."  These  traders  or  mountaineers  said  they  had  left 
a  kind  of  ferry  made  orf  three  buffalo  skins  hung  in  a 
tree  on  the  Platte  and  wanted  Brother  Crow's  com- 
pany to  have  it.  It  was  decided  to  send  a  company  ahead 
to  overreach  the  Missouri  companies  and  get  the  ferry 
before  they  could  arrive,  and  also  build  a  raft  for  us 
to  cross  on,  kill  game,  etc.  The  men  say  it  is  about 
seventy  miles  to  where  we  cross  the  river.  Nineteen 
wagons  were  sent  ahead  and  about  forty  men  to  attend 
to  this  business.  All  of  Brother  Crow's  company  went, 
Aaron  Farr,  J.  Redding,  the  cutter,  etc.,  being  five 
wagons  from  the  1st  division  and  fourteen  from  the  2nd. 
They  started  about  half  an  hour  before  we  started.  We 
proceeded  at  7:45  and  immediately  after  starting  had  to 
cross  a  very  steep  gulf,  being  difficult  for  teams  to  get 
up,  though  it  was  not  long.  Soon  after  this,  four  men 
passed  us  with  pack  horses  and  mules.  They  say  they 
are  from  Pueblo  and  going  to  Green  River;  they  told 
others  they  were  from  Santa  Fe  and  going  to  San  Fran- 
cisco. We  found  the  road  very  hilly  and  uneven  and 
crooked  as  yesterday.  At  three  and  three  quarters  miles 
passed  over  a  branch  of  the  La  Bonte,  a  stream  about 
ten  feet  wide  but  not  deep.  The  descent  and  ascent  bein^ 
very  steep,  most  of  the  teams  required  assistance  to  get 
up.  For  half  a  mile  before  we  crossed  this  stream  and 
three  and  a  half  miles  after,  our  road  lay  over  a  kind  of 
red  earth  or  sand  about  the  color  of  red  precipitate.  Most 
of  the  rocks  and  bluffs  are  of  the  same  red  color,  only 
a  deeper  red.  It  affected  my  eyes  much  from  its  bright- 
ness and  strange  appearance.  About  one  and  a  quarter 
miles  west  of  the  creek  President  Young  and  Kimball 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  227 

saw  a  large  toad  which  had  horns  on  its  head  and  a  tail. 
It  did  not  jump  like  a  toad  but  crawled  like  a  mouse. 
This  was  seen  near  a  large  pile  of  rock  or  rather  a  hill. 
At  12:40  we  halted  for  noon  having  come  ten  miles  since 
breakfast.  There  is  little  water  here  for  the  teams.  The 
day  fine  and  nice  west  breeze.  The  road  is  very  crooked, 
hilly,  and  mostly  rocky,  many  large  cobble  stones  covering 
the  bluffs,  the  land  barren  and  little  grass.  The  ground 
here  is  covered  with  large  crickets  which  are  so  numer- 
ous, to  walk  without  stepping  on  them  is  almost  impos- 
sible. 

At  half  past  two  o'clock  we  were  on  the  move  again. 
I  put  up  another  guide  board  a  little  east  of  the  creek : 
"70  miles."  We  found  the  road  much  better  this  after- 
noon, not  being  so  uneven,  and  tolerably  straight  ex- 
cepting a  bluff  to  climb  a  mile  from  the  creek.  At  the 
foot  of  this  bluff  I  saw  a  toad  with  a  tail  like  a  lizard, 
about  three  inches  long.  It  had  no  horns  but  there  was 
the  appearance  of  horns  just  coming  on  each  side  of  the 
head.  It  resembles  a  lizard  in  color,  tail,  and  motion 
when  running  swiftly  through  the  grass.  Its  hide  ap- 
peared hard  and  on  its  sides  appeared  numerous  little 
sharp  pointed  fins  or  pricks.  In  other  respects  it  re- 
sembled any  common  toad.  At  a  quarter  past  one  we 
formed  our  encampment  on  the  east  banks  of  a  stream 
about  a  rod  wide,  two  feet  deep  and  swift  current.  It 
is  named  the  A  La  Pierre.  We  have  traveled  eight  miles 
this  afternoon  and  during  the  day  19  1/4.  We  have  a 
good  place  for  feed  but  the  higher  land  is  barren,  abound- 
ing only  in  wild  sage.  There  are  still  some  high  bluffs 
around  but  the  country  west  appears  much  more  level. 


228  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

The  evening  fine  but  cool.  After  traveling  six  and  a 
quarter  miles  from  noon  halt,  passed  a  small  creek,  and 
again  three  quarters  of  a  mile  farther  passed  the  same 
creek.  Sterling  Driggs  killed  an  antelope  and  a  deer. 

THURSDAY,  lOra.  The  morning  calm  and  very 
pleasant.  There  is  wild  mint  growing  on  the  bank  of  this 
stream  in  great  plenty  and  abundance  of  wild  sage  on  ail 
the  higher  land.  The  mint  smells  natural,  but  the  sage 
smells  strong  of  turpentine  and  a  little  like  camphor. 
Started  at  half  past  seven  and  found  good  roads.  At 
four  and  a  half  miles  passed  over  a  small  creek  about 
three  feet  wide  but  not  much  water,  being  only  a  few 
inches  deep.  A  mile  farther  passed  another  creek  about 
five  feet  wide,  clear  water  and  plentiful.  At  11:20  we 
halted  on  the  east  bank  of  a  stream  about  thirty  feet 
wide  and  tolerably  deep  with  a  rapid  current,  having 
come  eight  and  three  quarters  miles.  We  have  had  sev- 
eral long,  steep  bluffs  to  ascend  and  descend  and  two 
places  at  the  creeks  where  it  was  hard  for  the  teams  to 
get  up  without  help.  We  saw  one  of  the  Missouri  com- 
panies a  few  miles  ahead  of  us.  Edmund  Elsworth  killed 
an  antelope.  There  is  good  feed  here  and  plentiful.  Our 
road  has  been  crooked  mostly  winding  northward.  The 
creek  on  which  we  camped  last  night  is  named  A  La 
Pierre  and  about  a  mile  from  where  the  road  crosses, 
it  runs  through  a  tunnel  from  ten  to  twenty  rods  under 
the  high  rocky  bluffs.  The  tunnel  is  high  enough  for  a 
man  to  stand  upright  in  it,  and  when  standing  at  the 
entrance  one  can  see  the  light  through  on  the  other  side. 
It  seems  as  though  this  tunnel  has  been  formed  by  some 
strange  feat  of  nature.  Several  of  the  brethren  went  to 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  229 

see  it.  Lewis  Barney  and  another  brother  each  killed  an 
antelope  which  were  'brought  into  camp  during  the  halt 
and  divided.  The  brethren  carried  the  two  last  about 
five  miles  on  their  shoulders.  We  have  learned  today 
from  one  of  the  travelers  that  there  is  one  man  living 
and  making  a  farm  in  the  Bear  River  valley.  At  a  quar- 
ter to  2:00  we  continued  our  journey.  Found  the  road 
somewhat  more  even  and  good  traveling.  I  put  a  guide 
board  this  morning  at  80  miles  from  Fort  John,  and 
this  afternoon  after  traveling  three  and  a  quarter  miles 
"•-om  noon  halt  I  put  up  another  mark  90  miles.  Just  as 
I  finished  setting  it,  I  looked  forward  and  saw  the  Platte 
river  again.  After  descending  a  half  a  mile  we  were  on 
its  banks,  being  77  miles  since  we  left  it  on  Saturday 
last,  after  having  wound  around  among  the  hills  and 
bluffs  all  the  way.  When  we  arrived  near  the  river  the 
road  was  more  level  but  sandy  and  harder  on  our  teams. 
There  are  also  some  low  places  where  the  water  stands, 
making  it  soft,  but  scarcely  any  feed  for  teams  since  we 
left  the  creek  at  noon.  At  a  quarter  to  six  we  passed 
another  stream  about  thirty  feet  wide  and  two  feet  deep, 
swift  current  and  clear  water.  Name  is  Deer  Creek. 
There  is  plenty  of  timber  on  its  banks  and  abundance  of 
good,  rich  grass  for  our  teams.  We  formed  our  en- 
campment on  the  west  bank  in  a  grove  of  large  timber. 
About  a  mile  back  we  passed  a  sick  horse  supposed  to  be 
left  by  some  of  the  companies  ahead.  Brother  Markham 
bled  it  in  its  mouth,  but  could  not  get  it  along  and  had 
to  leave  it.  The  distance  we  have  traveled  this  afternoon 
was  nine  miles  and  during  the  day  17^4  miles,  the  last 
five  miles  being  nearly  a  west  course.  Soon  after  we 


230  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

camped,  Horace  Whitney  went  to  fishing  in  this  stream. 
We  were  soon  satisfied  that  there  are  plenty  of  fish  in  it. 
I  got  a  line  and  went  to  fishing  also  and  in  a  few  min- 
utes caught  two  which  would  weigh  a  half  a  pound  each. 
We  then  went  a  piece  below  the  ford  and  by  fishing  till  a 
little  after  dark  I  caught  twenty-four  nice  fish  which 
would  average  over  a  half  a  pound  each,  and  some  of 
them  would  weigh  over  a  pound  each.  The  ones  I  caught 
were  of  a  very  bright  color  and  very  much  resembled 
the  herring,  but  much  larger.  Horace  caught  a  cat  fish 
and  two  suckers.  A  number  of  brethren  also  caught 
more  and  some  less.  There  is  abundance  of  fish  in  this 
stream  and  we  might  have  caught  enough  for  all  the 
camp  with  the  sein  but  it  is  ahead  with  those  who  are 
gone  to  build  a  raft.  The  Twelve  and  some  others  walked 
out  together  to  the  river  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  up 
the  stream.  Some  of  the  brethren  discovered  a  rich 
bed  of  stone  coal  where  any  quantity  might  easily  be  dug, 
and  it  is  said  to  look  good  and  is  a  fine  quality.  The 
land  here  on  the  bottom  is  rich  and  would  doubtless  yield 
good  crops  of  grain  and  potatoes,  etc.  Lewis  Barney 
killed  an  antelope  this  afternoon  which  was  distributed  as 
he  saw  fit,  inasmuch  as  he  was  not  appointed  a  hunter. 
The  evening  is  very  fine,  calm  and  pleasant  indeed. 

FRIDAY,  HTH:  Arose  at  four  o'clock  to  try  and  get 
some  more  fish.  Morning  fine  and  warm,  but  caught 
only  four.  I  procured  a  sample  of  the  stone  coal  from 
G.  A.  Smith.  It  looks  good.  This  place  reminds  me  of 
England.  The  calm,  still  morning  with  the  warbling  of 
many  birds,  the  rich  grass,  good  streams,  and  plenty  of 
timber,  make  it  pleasant.  At  7:35  we  again  continued 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  231 

our  journey  along  the  banks  of  the  river  which  appears 
somewhat  wider  here  than  at  Laramie.  At  two  and  a 
half  miles  we  passed  a  deep  hollow,  the  banks  on  both 
sides  being  very  steep.  At  four  and  a  quarter  miles  put 
up  a  guide  board  at  100  miles  from  Laramie,  having 
traveled  it  in  a  week  lacking  two  and  a  quarter  hours. 
At  11 :50  we  halted  for  noon  in  a  grove  of  timber  where 
there  is  plenty  of  good  feed  for  a  large  company.  The 
land  since  morning  has  been  generally  level,  but  sandy 
and  no  grass.  The  road  somewhat  crooked.  About  a 
mile  back  we  came  around  a  bend  to  the  south  caused 
by  a  deep  ravine.  We  had  to  travel  more  than  a  mile  to 
make  a  quarter  of  a  mile  direct.  William  Empey,  Ed- 
mund Elsworth,  and  Francis  M.  Pomeroy,  each  killed  an 
antelope.  Several  of  the  brethren  have  taken  an  interest 
in  the  guide  boards  and  wherever  they  see  a  piece  of 
board  sufficiently  large,  they  pick  it  up  and  preserve  it. 
By  this  means  we  have  now  got  enough  to  last  200  miles. 
The  distance  we  have  traveled  since  morning  is  nine  and 
a  quarter  miles,  being  105  miles  in  the  week  including 
Sunday,  or  100  miles  in  six  days.  About  half  an  hour 
after  we  halted,  Brother  Joseph  Hancock  came  in  with 
the  hind  quarters  of  an  antelope  which  he  killed  about 
three  miles  back.  He  could  not  carry  the  remainder  and 
left  it  on  the  ground.  At  two  o'clock  we  started  again. 
After  traveling  one  mile,  we  crossed  a  very  crooked, 
muddy  creek,  about  twelve  feet  wide  and  over  a  foot 
deep.  The  descent  and  ascent  were  both  bad  on  ac- 
count of  a  crook  from  one  to  the  other.  There  is  plenty 
of  feed  on  its  banks,  but  no  wood.  Five  and  three-quar- 
ters miles  farther  another  muddy  creek  about  three  feet 


232  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

wide  and  bad  to  cross  on  account  of  the  clay  being  very 
soft  in  its  banks.  The  balance  of  the  road  good,  but 
considerably  crooked.  At  half  past  five  o'clock  we  came 
to  a  halt  on  account  of  seeing  a  number  of  wagons  about 
a  half  mile  ahead  which  proved  to  be  two  of  the  Mis- 
souri companies  camped  on  the  banks  of  the  river  and 
preparing  to  cross  here.  It  was  also  ascertained  that 
there  is  no  camping  place  beyond  them  unless  we  go 
some  distance.  It  was  decided  to  turn  off  to  the  river 
opposite  where  we  are  and  camp  for  the  night  and  the 
wagons  proceeded  accordingly.  We  went  a  half  a  mile 
from  the  road  and  at  six  o'clock  formed  our  encampment 
near  the  river  where  there  is  plenty  of  timber,  having 
come  on  the  road  this  afternoon  seven  and  three-quar- 
ters miles  and  during  the  day  seventeen  miles,  exclusive 
cf  the  distance  we  turned  off  to  camp.  The  feed  here  is 
good  and  plentiful.  The  region  on  the  banks  of  the  river 
is  pretty  level,  but  a  few  miles  to  the  south  there  are  very 
high  bluffs.  Very  little  chance  for  feed  except  in  places 
on  the  banks  of  the  river  and  generally  where  there  is 
timber.  These  Missourian  companies  inform  us  that 
the  regular  crossing  place  is  twelve  miles  farther  and 
that  our  brethren  are  gone  on  there  and  also  the  balance 
of  the  Missourian  companies.  These  men  have  got  a 
light  flat  boat  with  them  and  have  already  got  one  load 
over.  They  say  they  have  killed  three  bears  between 
here  and  the  bluffs.  They  have  also  killed  a  buffalo. 
There  have  been  signs  of  bears  seen  by  our  brethren  a 
number  of  times,  but  no  bears  for  a  certainty.  We  have 
only  seen  one  buffalo  since  we  left  La  ramie  until  today, 
when  several  have  been  seen.  One  of  the  Misourians 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  233 

brought  a  snow  ball  from  the  hill  on  the  south.  He  gave 
Rockwood  a  piece  of  it,  and  he  brought  it  to  camp.  Elder 
Kimball  and  several  others  saw  it  which  now  convinces 
us  snow  is  yet  lying  on  these  high  bluffs.  Henson  Walker, 
Charles  Barnum  and  Brother  Owens  have  each  killed  an 
antelope  this  afternoon,  making  eight  during  the  day. 

SATURDAY,  12TH.  Morning  very  fine  with  nice  east 
breeze.  Brother  Markham  has  learned  this  morning  that 
Obadiah  Jennings  was  the  principal  in  killing  Bowman 
in  Missouri.  Bowman  was  one  of  the  guard  who  let 
Joseph  and  Hyrum  and  the  others  get  away  when  pris- 
oners in  Missouri.  The  mob  suspected  him  and  rode  him 
on  a  bar  of  iron  till  they  killed  him.  At  a  quarter  past 
eight  o'clock  we  continued  our  journey.  At  one  and  a 
half  miles  crossed  a  deep  gulch  pretty  difficult  to  descend 
but  not  bad  to  ascend.  One  and  three-quarters  miles 
farther,  we  crossed  a  small  creek  about  two  feet  wide  on 
a  bridge  which  the  brethren  fixed,  they  having  started 
ahead  of  the  wagons  for  that  purpose.  One  mile  beyond 
the  last  mentioned  creek  we  crossed  another  muddy 
stream  about  five  feet  wide,  and  one  and  a  half  feet  deep. 
At  a  quarter  to  12:00,  we  halted  after  crossing  another 
large  ravine,  having  traveled  seven  and  three-quarters 
miles  over  a  sandy,  barren  prairie.  In  some  places  it  is 
soft,  although  the  soil  is  much  like  clay  in  appearance. 
The  road  somewhat  crooked,  and  the  day  fine  and  warm. 
During  the  halt,  Brother  Rockwood  called  upon  the 
brethren  to  help  fix  another  ravine  immediately  west  of 
us.  Many  turned  out  and  it  was  soon  done.  James  Case 
nnd  S.  Markham  went  to  the  river  opposite  here  to  see 
;f  it  could  be  forded.  They  waded  their  horses  over  and 


234  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

found  the  water  about  four  feet  six  inches  deep  in  the 
channel  and  the  current  very  swift.  Of  course  it  could 
not  be  forded  with  loads  in  the  wagons,  but  the  loading 
\vt>uld  have  to  be  ferried  in  the  boat.  They  made  a  re- 
port of  this  kind  on  their  return  to  camp  and  about  the 
same  time  Brother  Chesley  came  down  from  the  brethren 
ahead  and  reported  their  progress  and  the  nature  of  the 
crossing  place,  etc.  A  number  of  the  brethren  in  com- 
pany with  Elder  Kimball  and  Chesley  went  to  the  river 
opposite  the  camp  to  decide  whether  to  cross  here  or  go 
on.  Brother  Markham  and  Case  again  went  over,  but  it 
was  finally  concluded  to  go  up  to  the  other  ferry.  We  ac- 
cordingly started  at  half  past  two.  I  went  ahead  on  foot. 
At  three  and  a  quarter  miles,  crossed  a  creek  about  five 
feet  wide.  At  half  past  four  the  encampment  was  formed 
on  the  banks  of  the  river,  having  come  four  miles,  and 
during  the  day  eleven  and  a  quarter.  It  is  about  a  half 
a  mile  from  our  camp  to  the  place  where  they  ferry.  1 
arrived  at  the  brethren's  camp  at  four  o'clock  and  learned 
that  they  arrived'  here  yesterday  about  noon.  Two  of  the 
Missourian  companies  arrived  about  the  same  time.  The 
brethren  concluded  that  a  raft  would  be  of  no  use  on  ac- 
count of  the  swiftness  of  the  current.  The  Missourian 
company  offered  to  pay  them  well  if  they  would  carry 
their  company  over  in  the  boat  and  a  contract  was  made 
to  do  so  for  $1.50  per  load,  the  brethren  to  receive  their 
pay  in  flour  at  $2.50  per  hundred.  They  commenced 
soon  after  and  this  evening  finished  their  work,  and  re- 
ceived the  pay  mostly  in  flour,  a  little  meal  and  some 
bacon.  They  have  made  $34.00  with  the  cutter  all  in 
provisions  which  is  a  great  blessing  to  the  camp  inasmuch 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  235 

°  s  a  number  of  the  brethren  have  had  no  bread  stuff  for 
some  days.  During  the  afternoon  yesterday,  one  of  the 
men  of  the  Missourian  company  undertook  to  swim 
across  the  river  with  his  clothes  on.  When  he  reached 
the  current  he  became  frightened  and  began  to  moan. 
Some  of  our  men  went  to  him  with  the  cutter  and  ar- 
rived in  time  to  save  his  life.  The  Missourian  company 
seem  to  feel  well  toward  us  and  express  their  joy  at  hav- 
ing got  across  the  river  so  soon.  Rodney  Badger  ex- 
changed wagons  with  one  of  them  and  got  a  wagon  as 
good  as  his  own,  only  the  tire  wants  setting.  He  got  a 
horse,  100  Ibs.  flour,  25  Ibs.  of  bacon  and  some  crackers 
to  boot.  The  provisions  and  horse  are  considered  to  be 
worth  as  much  as  his  wagon.  Since  the  brethren  arrived 
here  they  have  killed  three  buffalo,  a  grizzly  bear  and 
three  cubs,  and  two  antelope.  The  buffalo  are  very  fat 
and  the  meat  is  good  and  sweet.  According  to  the  idea 
of  some  French  travelers  camped  here,  the  buffalo  are 
making  down  east  behind  the  hills  opposite  here,  which 
they  say  is  a  certain  sign  that  the  Indians  are  on  Sweet 
Water  hunting  them.  The  brethren  say  that  the  buffalo 
are  very  plentiful  back  of  these  hills.  When  I  returned 
to  camp  I  learned  that  Tunis  Rappleyee  and  Artemas 
Johnson  were  missing,  the  former  having  started  for  the 
hills  to  get  a  little  snow;  the  latter  having  been  hunting 
all  day.  A  company  were  sent  out  with  the  bugle  to 
find  them.  Brother  Rappleyee  returned  about  eleven 
o'clock.  Johnson  was  foufTd  by  the  brethren  who  re- 
turned still  later.  All  agreeing  with  the  report  that  the 
hills  are  eight  or  ten  miles  distance,  although  they  do 
not  appear  more  than  one  mile.  There  were  four  ante- 


236  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

lope  killed  by  the  brethren  but  divided  according  to  the 
feelings  of  those  who  killed  them. 

SUNDAY,  13TH.  The  morning  fine  and  pleasant.  At 
nine  o'clock  the  brethren  assembled  in  the  circle  for 
prayer  and  after  they  had  spent  some  time,  Elder  Kim- 
ball  arose  and  addressed  them  exhorting  them  to  be 
watchful  and  humlble,  to  remember  their  covenants  and 
above  all  things  avoid  everything  that  will  lead  to  di- 
vision, etc.  He  made  use  of  the  similitude  of  the  pot- 
ter and  the  clay  to  show  that  every  man  had  the  priv- 
ilege of  being  exhalted  ito  honor  and  glory  if  he  did  not 
mar  in  the  hands  of  the  pt>tter,  but  would  continue  pas- 
sive, etc.  His  remarks  were  very  touching  and  appro- 
priate to  our  circumstances.  President  Young  followed 
next  on  the  "Liberty  of  the  Gospel"  showing  that  it 
guarantees  all  fullness  of  liberty  to  every  man  which 
fact  will  tend  to  his  salvation  and  increase,  but  does  not 
give  us  liberty  to  break  the  laws  of  God,  to  wander  off 
to  the  mountains  and  get  lost,  nor  to  kill  the  works  of 
God's  hands  to  waste  it,  etc.  He  was  followed  by  Elder 
Pratt  on  the  subject  of  our  avoiding  all  excesses  of  folly 
of  every  description,  inasmuch  as  it  disqualifies  from  the 
~ociety  of  just  men  and  angels.  He  exhorted  the  breth- 
ren to  be  watchful  and  to  seek  after  wisdom  and  knowl- 
edge. The  meeting  was  dismissed  at  half  past  twelve  and 
a  company  were  then  dispatched  to  get  poles  to  lash  the 
wagons  together  to  prevent  their  rolling  over  when  cross- 
ing. Another  company  were  sent  over  the  river  to  build  a 
raft  to  cross  over  provisions,  etc.  The  brethren  are  gone 
to  work  and  are  diligently  preparing  to  cross  the  river 
tomorrow.  The  day  has  been  very  hot,  more  like  a  sum- 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  237 

mer  day  than  any  we  have  yet  had  on  the  journey.  The 
ground  seems  to  be  alive  with  the  large  crickets,  and  it  is 
said  that  the  bears  feed  on  them  and  pick  them  up  very 
fast.  A  person  who  has  never  seen  them  could  form  no 
idea  of  the  vast  numbers  of  crickets  in  this  region.  1 
spent  the  day  writing  in  Elder  Kimabll's  journal.  Phin- 
eas  Young  came  in  from  the  mountain,  having  killed  a 
deer. 

MONDAY,  14-TH.  Morning  cloudy  and  cool.  At  four 
o'clock  the  first  division  commenced  ferrying  their  goods 
over  the  river  in  the  cutter  and  some  time  afterwards 
commenced  taking  the  wagons  across  on  a  raft  which 
proved  to  be  very  slow  work.  The  second  division  also 
began  to  take  their  goods  over  on  a  raft  but  the  current 
was  so  strong  they  only  took  two  loads  over  in  it  and 
then  quit.  The  second  division  then  got  a  rope  stretched 
across  the  river  from  shore  to  shore  and  lashing  two 
wagons  fast  together  to  keep  them  from  rolling  over, 
they  dragged  them  over  by  the  rope,  letting  them  drift 
with  the  current  to  save  breaking  the  rope.  When  the 
wagons  struck  on  the  sand  on  the  other  side  the  upper 
one  keeled  over,  and  finally  rolled  over  the  other  one, 
breaking  the  bows  considerably  and  losing  iron,  etc.,  in 
the  wagon  to  the  amount  of  $30.00  belonging  to  John 
Pack.  The  other  wagon  had  the  reach  broken  and  some 
of  the  bows.  They  next  lashed  four  wagons  together 
abreast  and  dragged  them  over  the  same  way.  All  got 
over  well  except  the  upper  one  which  turned  on  its  side, 
but  it  was  righted  again  without  damage.  They  next 
tried  one  wagon  alone,  but  as  soon  as  it  got  into  the 
current  it  rolled  over  and  over,  breaking  the  bows  pretty 


238  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

badly.  The  plan  of  taking  one  wagon  at  a  time  on  a  raft 
is  the  safest,  no  accident  having  occurred  with  it  and  the 
wagons  got  over  dry  but  it  is  very  slow  and  would  take 
us  three  or  four  days  to  get  all  the  wagons  across.  The 
wind  blows  strong  from  the  southwest  which  is  much 
to  our  disadvantage.  At  3  :30  we  had  a  very  heavy  thunder 
storm.  The  rain  was  heavy  indeed,  accompanied  by  hail 
and  as  strong  a  wind  as  I  ever  witnessed.  After  the 
storm  was  over  the  ferrying  was  continued,  getting  my 
trunk,  etc.,  and  the  loads  in  Brother  Johnson  and  Har- 
mon's wagons  over,  and  also  Harmon's  wagon,  John- 
son's being  got  over  just  before  the  storm.  It  took  till 
nearly  ten  o'clock  to  get  the  loading  into  the  wagons  and 
get  regulated.  The  river  has  been  rising  all  day  and  has 
risen  very  fast  since  the  storm.  The  men  have  tried 
hard,  much  of  the  time  being  in  the  water  and  sometimes 
up  to  their  armpits  which  is  very  fatiguing  indeed.  When 
they  quit  at  night  the  first  division  had  got  eleven  wagons 
over,  the  second  division  twelve,  making  twenty-three 
wagons  after  a  very  hard  day's  labor.  There  was  no 
difficulty  in  getting  the  freight  over  for  one  man  can 
carry  it  in  the  cutter  faster  than  all  the  rest  of  the  camp 
can  get  the  wagons  over. 

TUESDAY,  ISxH.  The  morning  fine  but  very  windy. 
The  brethren  continued  ferrying  wagons  over  on  the 
raft  and  also  built  two  other  rafts  The  wind  being  so 
high  they  could  not  get  along  very  fast.  In  the  after- 
noon they  commenced  driving  over  some  of  the  horses 
and  cattle  belonging  to  Brother  Crow's  company.  They 
neglected  to  take  the  lariats  off  the  horses  and  the  buf- 
falo horse  was  soon  seen  to  be  drowning.  Some  of  the 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  239 

men  immediately  went  to  it  with  the  skiff  and  dragged 
him  to  the  shore  but  could  not  succeed  in  bringing  him 
to  life.  His  natural  make  seemed  to  hurt  him  from 
swimming.  The  rest  all  got  over  safely.  The  cattle  got 
over  safely  also;  the  current  was  very  strong,  the  wind 
high  and  the  river  rising  which  made  it  look  dangerous 
to  swim  the  cattle  across.  It  was  concluded  today  to 
leave  several  brethren  here  to  make  a  boat  and  keep  a 
ferry  till  the  next  company  comes  up.  By  that  means 
they  will  probably  make  enough  to  supply  a  large  com- 
pany with  provisions.  We  have  learned'  from,  a  Mis- 
sourian  that  there  is  a  large  company  of  emigrants  com- 
ing up  on  the  north  side  of  the  Platt  above  Grand  Island. 
There  are  doubtless  some  of  our  brethren  and  if  so  they 
will  probably  reach  us  before  we  get  through.  The  day 
continued  windy  and  somewhat  inclined  to  storm,  but 
they  succeeded  in  getting  nearly  twenty  wagons  over  be- 
fore night. 

WEDNESDAY,  16rH.  The  morning  fine  but  strong 
west  wind.  The  brethren  continue  ferrying.  A  com- 
pany have  gone  back  about  three  miles  to  make  two 
canoes  on  which  they  intend  to  build  a  boat  to  be  used 
here  till  the  next  company  comes  up.  Another  c6mpany 
also  went  about  half  a  mile  up  the  river  to  make  slabs 
or  puncheons  to  lay  on  the  canoes.  A  while  before  dark 
the  brethren  returned  from  below  with  two  good  canoes 
twenty-five  feet  long  each  and  nearly  finished  and  ready 
to  put  together.  The  ferrying  continued  all  day  but  with 
great  difficulty  on  account  of  the  strong  wind  blowing 
down  stream.  When  they  started  over  with  Brother 
Goddard's  wagon  the  wind  was  blowing  strong.  James 


240  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL/ 

Craig  and  Wordsworth  were  on  the  raft  with  poles  -ir.d 
when  they  got  nearly  half  way  across  Brother  Craig's 
pole  stuck  in  the  sand  and  threw  him  overboard.  lie 
swam  back  to  shore  and  in  spite  of  Brother  Wordsworth's 
exertions,  the  wind  and  current  carried  the  raft  about 
two  miles  down  the  river.  It  was  finally  landed  by  the 
help  of  the  cutter  and  without  accident.  They  have  had 
three  rafts  working  today,  two  of  which  they  now  work 
by  oars  which  are  proving  to  be  far  superior  to  poles  in 
this  strong  current.  At  the  close  of  day  there  were  still 
a  number  of  wagons  on  the  south  shore.  Those  which 
had  been  brought  over  could  not  be  easily  counted  on 
account  of  their  being  scattered  all  along  the  banks  of  the 
river  for  about  a  mile  in  length.  It  was  now  contem- 
plated to  leave  a  company  of  brethren  at  this  ferry  to 
ferry  over  the  gentile  companies  for  a  dollar  and  a  half 
a  load  till  the  next  company  of  our  brethren  arrive.  This 
is  the  object  for  which  the  new  boat  is  being  built.  They 
will  thus  earn  a  good  stock  of  provisions  for  themselves 
and  be  prepared  to  set  the  brethren  of  the  next  company 
over  without  delay  and  will  also  be  able  to  preserve  the 
boat  for  our  use,  for  it  is  the  instructions  of  the  President 
that  when  they  have  ferried  our  brethren  over  to  cache 
the  boat  and  come  on  with  them. 

THURSDAY,  17TH.  The  morning  fine  but  windy  and 
cold.  The  brethren  renewed  the  ferrying  early  and  soon 
after  noon  they  had  got  the  last  wagon  safely  over  which 
was  a  matter  of  rejoicing  to  all  the  camp.  Two  companies 
of  the  Missourians  had  arrived  and  made  application  to 
be  set  over  at  a  dollar  and  a  half  a  load.  When  the  con- 
tract was  made  with  the  first  company  to  be  sent  across 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  241 

as  soon  as  our  wagons  were  over,  the  other  company  of 
ten  wagons  offered  to  pay  the  brethren  50c  per  man 
extra  if  they  would  set  them  over  first,  making  $5.09 
over  the  stated  price  for  ferriage  being  ten  of  the  breth- 
ren to  work  at  it.  Colonel  Rockwood  had  made  a  con- 
tract to  the  above  effect  with  the  first  company  and  did 
not  like  to  break  it.  However,  he  received  a  hint  that 
this  was  Colonel  Markham's  day  for  the  use  of  the  boat 
and  consequently  Colonel  Markham  had  a  right  to  take 
the  last  offer  if  he  chose.  He  took  the  hint  and  they 
went  to  work  forthwith  at  a  dollar  and  a  half  a  wagon  in 
provisions  at  Missouri  prices  and  50c  extra  per  man  in 
what  they  preferred  for  themselves.  The  afternoon  and 
evening  was  very  cold  indeed  with  a  very  strong  wind. 
After  President  Young  and  Kimball  got  their  wagons 
over,  being  about  the  last,  orders  were  given  for  the  camp 
to  come  together  and  form  the  wagons  in  a  circle  near 
the  ferry.  It  took  till  near  dark  before  all  the  wagons 
got  up.  The  ferrying  was  continued  all  night  and  till 
daylight  at  which  time  many  of  the  Missiourians'  wagons 
in  the  two  companies  were  over. 

FRIDAY,  18TH.  Morning  very  cold  and  windy.  The 
brethren  continued  working  at  the  new  boat,  others  con- 
tinued ferrying  the  Missourians'  wagons  over.  It  was 
concluded  not  to  start  today  but  wait  and  assist  in  finish- 
ing the  boat  and  also  to  take  the  provisions  on  which  will 
be  realized  from  these  two  companies.  After  dinner,  I 
went  with  brother  Pack  to  fish  in  the  last  creek  we 
crossed  about  a  mile  and  a  half  distance.  We  found  the 
fish  numerous  and  had  god  luck.  I  caught  sixty- five 
very  nice  ones  which  would  average  half  a  pound  weight 

17 


242  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

each.  About  six  o'clock  I  started  back  but  found  I  had 
got  more  than  I  could  easily  carry  to  camp.  However, 
when  I  got  about  half  way,  Brother  Cloward  met  me  and 
helped  to  carry  them.  We  arrived  at  the  camp  about 
sundown  pretty  well  tired.  The  afternoon  was  very. 
warm  and  pleasant.  When  we  arrived  the  Twelve  and 
some  others  were  going  to  council.  I  went  with  them. 
The  names  of  those  who  are  appointed  to  tarry  were 
read  over  as  follows :  Thomas  Grover,  John  S.  Higbee, 
Luke  Johnson,  Appleton  Harmon,  Edmund  Ellsworth, 
Francis  M.  Pomeroy,  William  Empey,  James  Davenport, 
and  Benjamin  F.  Stewart.  Thomas  Grover  was  ap- 
pointed captain.  The  President  then  referred  to  Brother 
Glines  who  was  wishful  to  stay  but  the  president  said 
he  had  no  council  for  him  to  tarry,  but  he  might  do  as 
he  had  a  mind  to.  Some  explanations  followed  by  Glines, 
but  the  unanimous  feeling  of  the  brethren  was  to  have 
him  go  on.  The  President  preached  a  short  sermon  for 
the  benefit  of  the  young  elders.  He  represented  them 
as  being  continually  grasping  at  things  ahead  of  them 
which  belong  to  others.  He  said  the  way  for  young 
elders  to  enlarge  their  dominion  and  power  is  to  go  to 
the  world  and  preach  and  then  they  .can  get  a  train  and 
bring  it  up  to  the  house  of  the  Lord  with  them,  etc.  The 
letter  of  instructions  was  then  read  and  approved  by  the 
brethren  and  the  council  was  then  dismissed. 

SATURDAY,  19rn.  Moring  fine  but  cool.  At  7:50 
the  camp  started  out  again  in  good  health  and  spirits 
and  the  teams  in  very  good  order.  It  was  remarked  by 
several  that  their  stock  had  fattened  so  much  while 
stopping  at  the  ferry,  they  hardly  knew  them.  The  grass 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  243 

appears  to  be  rich  and  good.  The  first  six  miles  of  the 
road  was  nearly  in  a  west  direction  over  several  consid- 
erably high  bluffs.  At  that  distance  the  road  turns  sud- 
denly to  the  south  and  rises  up  a  very  high  bluff  which 
is  upwards  of  a  mile  from  the  foot  to  the  summit.  There 
is  some  interesting  scenery  on  the  top  of  this  bluff,  es- 
pecially a  range  of  rough,  course,  sandy  rocks  of  a  dark 
brown  color,  rising  abruptly  above  the  surface  of  the 
land  in  huge  masses  and  ranging  east  and  west.  The 
descent  on  the  south  side  was  rough,  crooked  and  uneven, 
and  about  half  way  down  was  a  bed  of  white  earth 
mixed  with  black  in  places  and  others  yellow.  In  one 
place  you  can  pick  up  small  fragments  of  rock  of  each 
color  within  a  yard  of  each  other.  Towards  the  foot, 
the  road  is  still  more  uneven  and  there  are  several  steep 
pitches  and  rises.  At  one  o'clock  we  halted  for  noon 
on  a  spot  of  good  grass  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from 
a  small  spring  which  is  the  first  water  we  have  come  to 
since  leaving  the  ferry  which  is  eleven  and  a  quarter 
miles.  There  is  no  timber  nearer  than  the  bluffs  prob- 
ably two  miles  away  and  that  is  small  cedar  and  little 
of  it.  The  Red  Buttes  are  nearly  opposite  to  this  place 
towards  the  southeast  and  appear  to  be  two  high  bluffs 
of  red  earth  or  sand,  presenting  a  very  triangular,  yet 
interesting  appearance.  After  stopping  about  an  hour  it 
was  decided  to  move  on  to  the  spring  and  we  started 
accordingly  and  found  it  to  be  a  small  stream  of  water 
rising  out  of  the  quick  sands.  At  the  distance  of  twelve 
miles  from  the  ferry  there  is  quite  a  lake  of  water  sup- 
posed to  be  supplied  by  a  spring.  Indeed  we  could  see 
the  water  boil  up  out  of  the  mud  in  several  places.  The 


244  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

grass  on  the  banks  of  this  lake  is  good  and  plentiful  but 
no  timber  within  two  miles  or  upwards.  After  watering 
teams  at  the  lake,  at  ten  minutes  to  three  we  continued 
our  journey,  bearing  near  a  southwest  course  over  roll- 
ing prairie.  At  the  distance  of  eight  miles  from  the  spring 
there  is  a  steep  descent  from  a  bluff  and  at  the  foot 
there  is  a  high  ridge  of  sharp  pointed  rocks  running 
parallel  with  the  road  for  near  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  leav- 
ing only  sufficient  space  for  wagons  to  pass.  At  the 
south  point  there  is  a  very  large  rock  lying  close  to  where 
the  road  makes  a  bend,  making  it  somewhat  difficult 
to  get  by  without  striking  it.  The  road  is  also.. very 
rough  with  cobble  stones.  At  7:40  we  formed  our  en- 
campment in  a  small  spot  surrounded  by  high  bluffs,  hav- 
ing traveled  this  afternoon  ten  and  a  quarter  miles  and 
during  the  day  twenty-one  and  a  half  which  is  the  long- 
est distance  we  have  traveled  in  one  day  since  we  left 
Winter  Quarters,  and  this  is  considered  by  all  to  be  the 
worst  camping  ground  we  have  had  on  the  journey,  but 
we  were  obliged  to  take  it  for  there  is  neither  wood, 
grass,  nor  water  since  we  left  the  spring.  The  land 
being  perfectly  sandy  and  barren,  and  nothing  growing 
but  wild  sage  and  a  small  prickly  shrub  something  like 
those  on  the  moors  in  Lancashire,  England.  There  is 
some  grass  in  this  place  for  our  teams  but  no  wood. 
The  brethren  have  to  make  use  of  the  wild  sage  and 
buffalo  chips  to  do  their  cooking.  There  are  two  small 
streams  of  water,  one  appears  to  come  from  the  north- 
west and  is  not  very  bad  water;  the  other  is  from  the 
southwest  and  is  so  bad  that  cattle  will  not  drink  it.  It 
is  strong  of  salt  or  rather  saleratus  and  smells  extremely 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  245 

filthy.  Its  banks  are  so  perfectly  soft  that  a  horse  or 
ox  cannot  go  down  to  drink  without  sinking  immediately 
nearly  overhead  in  thick,  filthy  mud,  and  is  one  of  the 
most  horrid,  swampy,  stinking  places  I  ever  saw.  It  was 
found  necessary  to  keep  a  guard  out  to  prevent  the  cattle 
from  getting  into  it  and  orders  were  given  to  drive  them 
down  a  little  east  where  feed  is  pretty  good  and  it  is  not 
so  dangerous  of  their  miring.  The  mosquitoes  are  very 
bad  indeed  at  this  place  which  adds  to  the  loathsome, 
solitary  scenery  around.  Porter  Rockwell  returned 
from  hunting  soon  after  we  had  camped  and  reported 
that  he  had  killed  a  fat  buffalo  about  two  miles  off. 
A  team  was  sent  to  fetch  in  the  meat  which  they  did  not 
return  till  long  after  dark.  Elder  Kimball  saw  six  buffalo 
while  riding  ahead  to  look  out  a  camp  ground.  They 
are  represented  as  being  more  tame.  Myers  killed  two 
buffalo,  but  took  only  the  tallow  and  tongues  and  left 
the  rest  to  rot  on  the  ground.  John  Norton  and  Andrew 
Gibbos  left  the  camp  at  the  springs  and  went  out  to 
hunt,  expecting  we  should  stay  there  till  Monday.  Gib- 
bons has  not  been  seen  or  heard  of  since.  Norton  has 
returned  and  reports  that  he  has  killed  a  buffalo  and 
left  it  back  not  far  from  the  spring.  About  nine  o'clock 
there  was  an  alarm  that  an  ox  had  mired.  He  was 
nearly  covered  but  soon  got  out  again. 

SUNDAY,  20rH.  Morning  fine,  mosquitoes  very 
bad.  Two  more  oxen  found  almost  buried  in  the  mud 
and  all  hands  appeared  wishful  to  leave  this  place  and 
at  a  quarter  past  five  o'clock  we  moved  out.  The  first 
mile  was  bad  traveling,  there  being  several  steep  pitches 
in  the  road  making  it  dangerous  for  axletrees.  A  num- 


246  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

her  of  the  brethren  went  ahead  with  picks  and  spades 
and  improved  the  road  somewhat.  After  traveling  three 
and  three  quarters  miles  we  halted  for  breakfast  at 
seven  o'clock  beside  a  small  clear  stream  of  spring  water 
about  a  foot  wide,  but  plenty  for  camping  purposes.  The 
feed  on  its  banks  good  and  plentiful  but  no  wood  yet. 
Elder  Kimball  states  that  when  he  and  Elder  Benson 
were  riding  ahead  last  evening  to  look  out  a  camping 
ground  they  came  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  this  place 
but  were  not  near  enough  to  discover  the  water.  A 
while  before  they  arrived  here,  as  they  were  riding  slow- 
ly along,  they  saw  six  men  suddenly  spring  up  from  the 
grass  to  the  left  of  the  road.  The  men  were  clothed  in 
blankets  some  white  and  some  blue  and  had  every  ap- 
pearance of  being  Indians  ,,and  the  brethren  thought  they 
were  Indians.  The  six  mouted  their  horses  and  started 
on  in  a  direction  parallel  with  the  road.  The  brethren 
also  kept  on  their  course.  In  a  little  while  one  of  the  sup- 
posed Indians  left  the  rest  and  rode  towards  the  breth- 
ren and  motioned  with  his  hand  for  them  to  go  back. 
They,  however,  kept  on  and  paid  no  attention  to  his  mo- 
tion. When  he  saw  them  still  coming,  he  wheeled  round 
and  joined  the  others  who  all  put  spurs  to  their  horses 
and  were  soon  out  of  sight  behind  a  higher  piece  of  land. 
Soon  as  they  were  out  of  sight  Elder  Kimball  and  Ben- 
son spurred  their  horses  and  rode  to  the  ridge  and  as  they 
arrived  there  they  discovered  a  camp  of  the  Missourians 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  left  of  the  road  and  the 
six  Indians  were  just  entering  the  camp.  The  brethren 
were  now  satisfied  that  these  Indians  were  Missourians 
and  had  taken  this  plan  to  keep  us  back  from  this  good 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  247 

camp  ground.  It  is  considered  as  an  old  Missouri  trick 
and  an  insult  to  the  camp,  and  if  they  undertake  to  play 
Indian  again,  it  is  more  than  likely  they  will  meet  with 
Indian  treatment.  Their  camp  left  here  a  little  before  we 
arrived  this  morning  and  it  is  now  President  Young's 
intention  to  press  on  a  little  faster  and  crowd  them  up  a 
little.  We  have  learned  from  one  of  the  emigrants  a 
few  miles  in  our  rear  that  Andrew  Gibbons  tarried  with 
tlifir  camp  over  night.  When  he  returned  to  the  spring 
and  found  our  camp  gone  and  the  Missourians'  camp 
there,  he  told  them  of  the  dead  buffalo  killed  by  Norton. 
They  went  and  fetched  what  meat  they  wanted  and 
feasted  on  it,  he  joining  with  them  and  faring  well.  At 
a  quarter  past  nine  we  proceeded  on  our  journey.  After 
traveling  three  miles,  we  arrived  at  the  Willow  spring 
and  halted  a  little  while  to  get  water.  This  spring  is 
about  two  feet  wide  and  the  water  ten  inches  deep,  per- 
fectly clear,  cold  as  ice  water,  and  very  good  tasting. 
There  is  a  willow  grove  extending  for  some  distance 
above  and  below  it  which  will  answer  very  well  for  fir- 
ing purposes.  The  grass  is  good  and  plentiful  and  it  is 
one  of  the  loveliest  camping  spots  I  have  seen  on  the 
journey,  though  the  land  where  the  stream  runs  below  the 
spring  is  soft  and  some  danger  of  cattle  miring.  The 
spring  is  situated  between  two  very  high  hills  and  is 
about  three  rods  west  of  the  road  and  shielded  from  the 
sun  by  a  bank  about  eight  feet  high  and  the  willow 
grove.  A  little  piece  before  we  arrived  at  the  spring 
there  are  two  very  deep  ravines  to  cross,  which  requires 
some  care  on  the  part  of  the  teamsters  to  prevent  ac- 
cidents. At  a  quarter  of  a  mile  beyond  the  spring  we 


248  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

began  to  ascend  a  very  high  hill  which  was  one  mile  from 
the  foot  to  the  top  and  the  ascent  pretty  steep.  The 
summit  of  this  hill  is  nicely  rounding  and  considered  to 
be  much  the  highest  we  have  traveled  over.  From  the 
top  can  be  seen  a  vast  extent  of  country  to  the  south, 
west,  and  north.  For  about  twenty  or  thirty  miles  to 
the  south  there  appears  to  be  a  tolerably  level  bottom 
over  which  our  future  road  runs.  Beyond  this  there  are 
vast  ranges  of  high  hills  whose  summits  are  spotted  \yith 
snow.  In  the  distance  to  the  southwest  can  be  seen  a 
small  body  of  water  which  we  suppose  to  be  a  part  of 
the  Sweet  Water  river.  To  the  west  the  ridges  of  rocks 
or  hills  appear  nearer.  They  are  probably  not  over  fifteen 
miles  from  us.  On  the  north  we  can  see  hills  a  long  dis- 
tance. The  one  opposite  Red  Buttes,  near  the  spring 
where  we  halted  yesterday  noon,  appears  only  a  few 
miles  distance.  The  view  from  this  hill  is  one  of  ro- 
mantic beauty  which  cannot  easily  be  surpassed  and  as 
President  Young  remarked,  would  be  a  splendid  place 
for  a  summer  mansion  to  keep  tavern.  We  then  de- 
scended on  the  southwest  corner  of  the  hill  and  found  it 
to  be  just  one  mile  farther  to  the  foot.  At  the  distance 
of  three  quarters  of  a  mile  farther  we  found  a  good  place 
for  feed,  being  plenty  of  grass,  but  no  water  nor  wood. 
At  a  mile  and  a  quarter  still  farther  we  crossed  a  very 
bad  slough  which  is  about  a  rod  across  and  following 
the  road,  nearly  three  feet  deep  in  water  and  stiff  mud. 
Most  of  the  wagons  crossed  a  little  to  the  right  of  the 
road  and  found  it  not  so  difficult  to  cross,  yet  very  soft. 
There  is  also  plenty  of  good  grass  at  this  spot.  A  mile 
beyond  this  slough  we  ascended  a  very  steep  bluff 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  249 

though  not  very  high  and  the  descent  on  the  southwest 
is  also  very  steep.  At  2:45  we  halted  to  feed  in  a  ravine 
where  there  is  plenty  of  grass  and  a  good  stream  of  water 
about  three  hundred  yards  south  from  the  road  but  desti- 
tute of  wood.  We  have  traveled  this  forenoon  nine  miles 
over  barren,  sandy  land  being  no  grass  only  in  the  spots 
above  mentioned.  During  the  halt  it  was  decided  that 
President  Young  take  the  lead  with  his  wagon  and  try  to 
proceed  a  little  faster.  At  five  o'clock  we  again  pro- 
ceeded, the  President's  wagon  going  first;  all  the  others 
keeping  their  places.  I  will  here  remark  that  ii  is  the 
order  of  our  traveling  for  each  company  of  ten  to  go 
forward  in  their  turn.  The  first  ten  in  the  first  division 
taking  the  lead  one  day,  then  on  the  second  day  it  falls 
in  the  rear  of  the  first  division,  the  second  ten  takes 
the  lead  and  this  continues  till  each  company  of  ten  have 
taken  the  lead  one  day  a  piece.  Then  the  first  division 
falls  in  the  rear  of  the  second  division  which  also  be- 
jgins  by  companies  of  ten  to  take  the  lead  of  the  road  as 
stated  above  and  when  each  ten  have  had  their  day, 
the  second  division  again  falls  in  the  rear  of  the  first 
which  continues  in  the  same  order.  Thus  every  man  has 
his  equal  privilege  of  traveling  one  with  another.  After 
traveling  two  and  a  half  miles  we  descended  to  the  bot- 
tom land  again  and  saw  a  small  stream  a  little  to  the  left 
of  the  road  where  there  is  plenty  of  grass.  One  and  three 
quarters  miles  farther  we  crossed  a  creek  of  tolerably 
clear  water  about  six  feet  wide  and  one  foot  deep,  but 
neither  grass  nor  timber  on  its  banks.  After  traveling 
seven  miles  this  afternoon  we  turned  off  from  the  road 
to  the  left  and  at  8:20  formed  our  encampment  on  a 


250  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

ridge  near  the  last  metioned  creek  where  there  is  good 
feed,  having  traveled  this  afternoon  seven  and  a  quarter 
miles,  exclusive  of  allowance  for  turning  from  the  road, 
and  during  the  day  twenty  miles.  We  had  been  in  hopes 
of  reaching  the  Sweet  Water  but  it  appears  we  are 
yet  some  miles  from  it.  The  whole  country  around  is  en- 
tirely destitute  of  timber,  not  a  tree  to  be  seen,  nor  a 
shrub  larger  than  the  wild  sage  which  abounds  in  all 
this  region  of  country  and  will  answer  for  cooking  when 
nothing  else  can  be  found.  Some  anxiety  is  felt  on  ac- 
count of  the  absence  of  Elder  Woodruff  and  John 
Brown.  They  started  ahead  this  morning  with  instruc- 
tions to  go  on  about  fifteen  miles  and  if  they  found  a 
good  place  to  camp,  to  stay.  They  have  not  been  seen 
or  heard  of  since.  It  is  supposed  they  have  fallen  in  with 
some  of  the  companies  either  forward  or  back  and  have 
concluded  to  tarry  with  them  over  night. 

MONDAY,  21  ST.  Morning  very  fine  and  warm.  From 
this  place  we  can  see  a  huge  pile  of  rocks  to  the  south- 
west a  few  miles.  We  have  supposed  this  to  be  the  rock 
of  Independence.  After  breakfast  I  went  to  view  it  and 
found  that  it  was  a  vast  pile  of  rocks  extending  from 
south  to  north  about  five  hundred  feet  and  in  width,  one 
hundred  feet.  The  rocks  are  large  and  seem  piled  on  one 
another  with  the  edges  up.  There  is  no  earth  on  the 
ridge  but  a  little  drift  sand  in  which  there  are  currant 
and  rose  bushes  growing.  I  saw  a  large  mouse  on  the 
top  which  had  a  long  bushy  tail  like  a  squirrel.  It  sat 
up  and  acted  in  every  respect  like  a  squirrel,  but  in  size 
and  color  resembled  a  mouse.  At  8:35  the  camp  pro- 
ceeded onward.  After  traveling  three  and  a  quarter 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  251 

miles  we  arrived  on  a  bed  of  saleratus  which  was  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  across  and  on  which  were  several  lakes 
of  salt  water.  This  place  looks  swampy  and  smells  bad. 
The  beds  of  saleratus  smell  like  lime,  but  the  saleratus 
itself  is  said  to  raise  bread  equal  to  the  best  bought  in 
eastern  markets.  Lorenzo  Young  gathered  a  pail  full  in 
a  short  time  with  a  view  to  test  its  qualities.  Large 
quantities  may  be  gathered  in  a  short  time  and  when  pul- 
verized it  looks  clean  and  nice.  We  are  now  satisfied 
that  the  water  we  saw  from  the  hills  yesterday  must 
have  been  some  of  these  lakes  as  the  Sweet  Water  is  not 
yet  in  sight,  but  these  being  high,  show  at  a  long  distance. 
The  water  is  not  very  salty  but  brackish  and  tastes  sickly. 
It  is  reported  by  travelers  that  these  are  poisonous,  but  it 
is  probable  that  all  the  poison  there  is  about  them  is  their 
salt  causing  cattle  to  drink  freely  when  they  can  get  no 
other  water,  and  the  more  they  drink,  the  more  thirsty 
they  get  till  they  burst  themselves,  which  is  said  to  be 
the  effect  of  drinking  the  poison,  viz.  to  burst.  As  we 
passed  along  a  little  farther  we  saw  another  large  lake 
to  the  left  and  one  to  the  right  of  the  same  nature,  their 
banks  mostly  white  with  saleratus.  At  twelve  o'clock 
we  arrived  on  the  banks  of  the  Sweet  Water,  having  trav- 
eled seven  and  a  half  miles  over  a  very  sandy  road  desti- 
tute of  wood,  water  or  grass.  The  distance  from  the 
upper  ferry  of  the  Platte  river  to  this  place  is  forty-nine 
miles  by  the  roadometer.  There  has  formerly  been  a 
ford  here  but  lately  emigrants  have  found  a  better  ford 
higher  up  the  river.  At  this  place  the  river  is  probably 
seven  or  eight  rods  wide  and  over  three  feet  deep  at 
the  ford,  but  in  some  places  it  is  much  deeper  still.  The 


252  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

current  is  very  swift,  the  water  a  little  muddy,  but  pleas- 
ant tasting.  By  watching  it  closely  it  is  easy  to  see  on 
the  surface  numerous  small  bright  particles  floating 
which  at  first  sight  might  be  supposed  to  be  salt,  how- 
ever the  water  itself  has  not  the  least  saline  taste.  On 
the  banks  of  the  river  there  is  plenty  of  good  grass  but 
•destitute  of  wood  there  being  only  one  solitary  tree  to  be 
seen  and  that  stands  beside  this  fording  place.  The  only 
chance  for  fuel  appears  to  be  the  wild  sage  and  other 
small  shrubbery  occasionally  growing  in  spots  on  the 
low  banks.  After  we  halted,  Sister  Harriet  Young  made 
some  bread  using  the  lake  saleratus  and  when  baked 
was  pronounced  to  raise  the  bread  and  taste  equal  to  the 
best  she  had  ever  used  and  it  requires  less  of  this  than 
the  common  saleratus.  A  number  of  the  brethren  went 
back  during  the  halt  and  filled  their  pails  with  it  cal- 
culating to  make  use  of  it  during  our  future  journey.  The 
day  has  been  very  hot  and  no  wind  which  makes  it  un- 
pleasant traveling.  Elder  Woodruff  and  Brown  again 
joined  the  camp  on  our  arrival  here  and  reported  that 
they  had  spent  the  night  in  one  of  the  gentile  camps 
which  are  now  some  miles  ahead  of  us.  There  are  many 
high  hills  or  ridges  of  the  granite  rock  in  the  neighbor- 
hood, especially  in  the  east  and  west,  all  entirely  desti- 
tute of  vegetation  and  which  present  a  very  wild  and 
desolate  as  well  as  romantic  aspect.  I  can  describe  their 
appearance  only  by  saying  .that  it  seems  as  though  giants 
had  in  by-gone  days  taken  them  in  wheelbarrows  of  tre- 
mendous size  and  wheeled  up  in  large  heaps,  masses  of 
heavy  clay  which  has  consolidated  and  become  solid,  hard 
rock.  The  rock  Independence  lies  a  little  west  of  where 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  253 

we  have  halted  and  after  dinner  I  went  to  view  it  as 
well  as  many  others.  It  lies  on  the  north  bank  of  the 
river  in  this  shape :  The  extreme  southeast  corner  reaches 
to  within  about  three  rods  of  the  river  and  runs  in  a  di- 
rection northwest  while  the  river  at  this  place  runs  nearly 
a  west  course.  It  is  composed  of  the  same  barren  granite 
as  other  masses  in  this  region  and  is  probably  400  yards 
long,  80  yards  wide  and  100  yard  in  perpendicular  height 
as  near  as  I  could  guess.  The  ascent  is  difficult  all 
around.  Travelers  appear  to  have  ascended  it  mostly  at 
the  southeast  corner  where  there  are  some  hundreds  of 
names  of  persons  who  have  visited  it,  both  male  and 
female,  painted  on  the  projecting  surfaces  with  black, 
red,  and  some  with  yellow  paint.  About  half  way  up 
there  is  a  cavern  about  twelve  feet  long  and  three  feet 
wide  at  the  bottom  but  at  the  top  about  ten  feet  wide  and. 
eight  feet  high,  formed  by  a  very  large  heavy  mass  of 
rock  having  sometime  fallen  over  an  opening  or  cavity 
leaving  scarcely  room  enough  for  a  man  to  enter.  How- 
ever there  are  three  places  by  which  it  may  be  entered 
though  not  without  difficulty.  There  are  a  number  of 
names  inside  the  cavern  put  on  with  black  paint,  doubtless 
being  the  names  of  persons  who  have  visited  it.  On  the  top 
of  the  rock  the  surface  is  a  little  rounding  something  like 
a  large  mound  with  large  masses  of  loose  rock  lying  scat- 
tered around.  Proceeding  forward  you  descend,  when 
nearly  half  way  of  the  length,  to  a  considerably  lower 
surface  which  continues  some  distance  and  then  rises 
high  again  to  about  the  same  height  as  the  first  section. 
On  the  top  there  are  a  number  of  small  pools  of  water, 
no  doubt  collected  during  heavy  rains  and  having  no 


254  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

chance  to  run  off,  they  stand  until  evaporated  into  the 
atmosphere.  Some  of  the  pools  are  eight  inches  deep 
and  taste  like  rain  water.  It  is  more  difficult  descend- 
ing from  the  rock  than  to  ascend  it  on  account  of  its 
being  hard  and  slippery  and  nothing  to  hang  on,  and  a 
visitor  has  to  be  careful  or  he  will  arrive  on  the  ground 
with  bruised  limbs.  At  three  o'clock  p.  m.  they  started 
on  and  on  arriving  at  the  rock  found  it  to  be  one  and  a 
quarter  miles  from  noon  halt.  We  put  up  a  guide  board 
oppoiste  the  rock  with  this  inscription  on  it.  "To  Fort 
John  175  1/4  miles.  Pioneers,  June  21,  1847.  W.  R." 
The  letters  W.  R.  are  branded  on  all  the  guide  boards 
at  the  doctor's  request  so  as  to  have  a  mark  that  the 
Saints  might  know ;  and  his  brand  is  generally  known  by 
the  Saints.  After  traveling  on  the  banks  of  the  river  one 
mile  beyond  the  rock,  we  forded  over  and  found  it  nearly 
three  feet  deep  in  the  channel.  All  the  wagons  got  over 
without  difficulty  or  much  loss  of  time.  We  then  con- 
tinued a  southwest  course  four  and  a  half  miles  farther 
and  arrived  opposite  Devil's  Gate  which  lies  a  little  to 
the  west  of  the  road ;  and  a  quarter  of  a  mile  beyond 
this,  the  road  passes  between  two  high  ridges  of  granite, 
leaving  a  surface  of  about  two  rods  of  level  ground  on 
each  side  the  road.  The  road  then  bends  to  the  west 
and  a  quarter  of  a  mile  farther,  passes  over  a  small  creek 
two  feet  wide  but  bad  crossing  on  account  of  its  being 
deep  and  muddy,  requiring  caution  in  the  teamsters  to 
prevent  accident.  President  Young,  Kimball  and  others 
went  to  view  the  north  side  of  Devil's  Gate  and  return- 
ing reported  that  the  devils  would  not  let  them  pass,  or 
meaning  that  it  was  impossible  to  go  through  the  gate- 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  255 

way  so  called.  We  proceeded  on  a  little  farther  and  at 
6  :35  formed  our  encampment  on  the  bank  of  the  river 
having  traveled  this  afternoon  seven  and  three  quarters 
miles,  and  during  the  day  fifteen  and  a  quarter.  The 
feed  here  is  good  and  plentiful  and  a  little  cedar  can  be 
obtained  at  the  foot  of  one  of  the  rocky  ridges  about  i 
quarter  of  a  mile  back.  After  we  had  camped  I  went 
back  to  view  the  Devil's  Gate  where  the  river  runs  be- 
tween two  high  rocky  ridges  for  the  distance  of  about 
200  yards.  The  rock  on  the  east  side  is  perpendicular 
and  was  found  by  a  barometrical  measurements  by  Elder 
Pratt  to  be  399  feet  4  1/4  inches  high.  The  one  on  the 
west  side  is  about  the  same  height  but  not  perpendicular 
bending  a  little  from  the  river  gradually  to  the  top.  The 
river  has  a  channel  of  about  three  rods  in  width  through 
this  pass  which  increases  its  swiftness  and,  dashing 
furiously  against  the  huge  fragments  of  rock  which  have 
fallen  from  the  mountain,  makes  a  roar  which  can  be 
heard  plainly  in  the  camp.  One  of  the  brethren  fired  off 
his  rifle  at  the  foot  of  the  rock  and  the  report  resembled 
much  like  that  of  a  cannon.  Others  tumbled  fragments 
of  rocks  from  a  projection  at  the  entrance  about  150  feet 
high,  which  made  a  very  loud  rumbling  sound  caused  by 
the  echoes.  The  scenery  is  one  of  romantic  grandeur  and 
it  seems  wonderful  how  the  river  could  ever  find  a  chan- 
nel through  such  a  mass  of  heavy,  solid  rock.  The  view 
from  this  evening's  encampment  over  the  surrounding 
country  is  sublime.  To  the  east,  south,  and  southwest 
the  Sweet  Water  mountains  tower  high  and  appear  spot- 
ted with  snow ;  and  about  twenty  to  thirty  miles  distance 
from  the  river  to  the  west  are  also  hills  and  ridges  inter- 


256  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

spersed  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  except  the  land  im- 
mediately on  the  river  which  appears  even  for  many  miles. 
These  high,  barren,  rocky  ridges  on  the  north  side  of  the 
river  seem  to  continue  for  many  miles. 

TUESDAY,  22ND.  Morning  fine.  At  7:20  we  con- 
tinued our  journey  and  about  200  yards  from  where  we 
camped,  crossed  a  very  crooked  creek  about  six  feet 
wide  descending  from  the  southwest.  After  traveling 
three  miles  over  heavy,  sandy  roads,  we  crossed  another 
creek  about  six  feet  wide;  and  three  and  three  quarters 
miles  farther,  a  creek  two  feet  wide.  Somewhere  near  this 
last  creek,  Brother  Lorenzo  Young  broke  one  of  his  axle 
trees  which  detained  him  some  time.  One  of  the  Mis- 
sourian  companies  came  up  soon  after  the  accident  and 
took  his  load  into  one  of  their  wagons  and  by  splicing  a 
piece  of  wood  on  his  axle  tree,  he  was  enabled  to  follow 
our  camp.  At  11 :55  we  halted  on  the  banks  of  the  river, 
having  traveled  ten  miles  over  a  very  sandy,  barren  land, 
there  being  no  grass  only  on  the  creeks  and  river  banks. 
During  the  halt,  Elder  Pratt  took  an  observation  and 
found  the  latitude  of  this  place  42°  28'  25".  President 
Young  went  back  to  meet  Lorenzo  but  soon  found  he  was 
coming  on  with  the  Missourian  company  who  were  ap- 
proaching near  us.  He  immediately  turned  about  and  on 
arriving  back  gave  orders  to  get  up  the  teams  and  pro- 
ceed so  as  to  keep  ahead  of  the  other  company  who  say 
they  have  traveled  from  Independence  Rock  without  halt- 
ing. However,  they  passed  before  we  could  start  and 
got  ahead  of  us.  The  day  has  been  hot  and  a  little  wind. 
At  2 :25  we  continued,  finding  the  road  again  leaving 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  257 

the  river.  At  half  a  mile,  we  passed  a  very  large  lake 
on  our  left  which  covers  an  area  of  over  80  acres  of  land. 
Its  banks  are  mostly  white  with  the  alkali  or  saleratus. 
After  passing  this  lake  the  road  runs  south,  passing  be- 
tween high  sandy  bluffs  after  which  it  again  turns  around 
gradually  towards  the  west  and  descending  a  steep  bluff 
over  very  heavy,  sandy  land.  After  traveling  five  and 

three  quarters  miles  crossed  a  creek  about  six  feet  wide 
and  a  foot  deep.  The  bank  on  each  side  is  very  steep 

and  sandy,  making  it  difficult  for  teams  to  get  up.  Here 
Sterling  Driggs  had  his  harness  broken  to  pieces  by  his 
horses  springing  suddenly  when  attempting  to  rise  out 
of  the  creek.  They  cleared  themselves  from  the  wagon 
which  was  hauled  up  by  a  yoke  of  oxen  so  as  not  to 
hinder  the  rest  from  crossing.  The  banks  of  this  creek 
are  well  lined  with  sage  instead  of  grass  which  is  very 
large  and  thick  on  the  ground  on  account  of  which  Elder 
Kimball  named  this  Sage  creek.  After  passing  this  creek 
one  and  three  quarters  miles  we  again  arrived  on  the 
banks  of  the  river  and  continued  to  travel  near  to  it. 
At  two  and  a  quarter  miles  farther  crossed  a  creek  three 
feet  wide,  but  not  much  to  be  depended  on  for  water. 
At  7:50  we  formed  our  encampment  at  the  foot  of  a 
very  high  gravelly  bluff  and  near  the  river,  having  trav- 
eled this  afternoon  ten  and  three  quarters  miles  and  dur- 
ing the  day  twenty  and  three  quarters  miles  over  mostly 
a  very  sandy  road.  This  is  a  very  good  camp  ground, 
there  being  plenty  of  grass  for  our  teams  which  is  well 
worth  traveling  a  few  miles  extra.  From  this  place  the 
country  seems  fortified  by  hills  and  mountains  especially 
on  the  west.  Lewis  Barney  and  Joseph  Hancock  have 

18 


258  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

each  killed  an  antelope  during  the  day,  but  there  appears 
to  be  no  buffalo  in  the  neighborhood. 

WEDNESDAY,  23RD.  Morning  fine  and  warm.  After 
breakfast  I  went  to  the  top  of  the  high  bluff  expecting 
to  get  a  good  view  of  the  country  west  but  was  disa- 
pointed  in  consequence  of  the  many  ridges  or  bluffs  but 
a  little  distance  beyond  us. /At  seven  o'clock  the  camp 
moved  forward  and  immediately  after  saw  a  graveyard 
on  the  left  of  the  road  with  a  board  stuck  up  with  these 
words  written  on  it:  "Matilda  Crowley.  B.  July  16th, 
1830,  and  D.  July  7,  1846."  On  reflecting  afterward 
that  some  of  the  nuermous  emigrants  who  had  prob- 
ably started  with  a  view  to  spend  the  remainder  of  their 
days  in  the  wild  Oregon,  had  fallen  by  the  way  and  their 
remains  had  to  be  left  by  their  friends  far  from  the  place 
of  destination,  I  felt  a  renewed  anxiety  that  the  Lord 
will  kindly  preserve  the  lives  of  all  my  family,  that  they 
may  be  permitted  to  gather  to  the  future  home  of  the 
Saints,  enjoy  the  society  of  the  people  of  God  for  many 
years  to  come,  and  when  their  days  are  numbered  that 
their  remains  may  be  deposited  at  the  feet  of  the  ser- 
vants of  God,  rather  than  be  left  far  away  in  a  wild  coun- 
try. And  oh,  Lord,  grant  this  sincere  desire  of  thy  ser- 
vant in  the  name  of  Thy  Son  Jesus/  Amen.  After  trav- 
eling one  and  a  half  milQS  we  crossed  a  very  shoal  stream 
of  clear,  cold  water  about  five  feet  wide.  There  is  but  little 
grass  here  although  a  number  of  bitter  cottonwood  trees 
grow  on  the  banks.  There  being  no  name  on  the  map 
for  this  creek,  it  was  named  Bitter  Cottonwood  Creek  to 
designate  it  in  our  future  travel.  It  is  probable  that  this 
stream  is  caused  by  the  melting  of  the  snow  on  the 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  259 

mountains  and  if  so,  could  not  be  depended  on  for  a 
camp  ground  late  in  the  summer.  After  passing  this 
creek,  the  river  runs  between  some  of  the  high  rocky 
ridges,  the  road  at  the  same  time  bending  a  little  south- 
west to  pass  around  them.  After  traveling  five  miles 
beyond  the  last  mentioned  creek,  we  again  descended  to 
the  banks  of  the  river  where  would  be  a  pretty  good  camp 
ground  although  the  grass  is  not  so  plentiful  as  in  many 
other  places  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  We  traveled  till 
11 :05  on  the  river  banks  then  halted  for  noon  where  the 
road  and  river  separated  a  little  farther  and  hence  we 
would  probably  not  find  grass  again  for  a  number  of 
miles.  The  land  continues  very  sandy  making  it  hard 
on  teams ;  our  course  about  west,  the  day  very  warm 
with  a  light  south  breeze.  We  traveled  eight  and  a  half 
miles  this  morning.  There  are  some  small  cedar  trees 
on  the  rocky  bluffs  which  is  the  only  timber  seen  since 
we  passed  the  Bitter  Cottonwood.  Latitude  of  this  place 
42°  31'  20".  At  1  :10  we  continued  our  journey  and 
after  proceeding  half  a  mile,  found  the  river  turns  be- 
tween the  granite  ridges  in  a  northwest  direction  and 
seems  to  have  but  a  narrow  space  to  pass  through  in 
several  places.  The  road  at  the  same  place  turns  south 
to  avoid  the  ridges  for  over  a  mile  and  then  bends  to 
the  southwest  for  some  distance  farther.  The  road  at 
the  foot  of  these  rocky  hills  is  extremely  sandy  and  heavy 
traveling.  On  arriving  at  the  south  side  of  the  hills, 
we  were  suddenly  cheered  with  a  very  plain  view  of  the 
Wind  river  chain  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  towering  high 
up  in  the  air  and  perfectly  white  with  snow.  Some  of 
the  peaks  appear  to  run  up  very  high,  but  we  are  evi- 


260  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

dently  many  miles  from  them  yet.  After  we  passed  this 
place,  the  road  gradually  bends  to  the  west  and  north- 
west and  at  the  distance  of  six  and  three  quarters  miles 
from  our  noon  halt  brings  us  to  the  banks  of  the  river 
again.  We  continued  on  the  banks  of  the  river  till  6:20, 
at  which  time  we  formed  our  encampment,  having  trav- 
eled this  afternoon  eight  and  a  half  miles  and  during  the 
day  seventeen.  As  usual  there  is  plenty  of  grass  on  the 
river  banks  but  no  wood.  There  are  some  dry  buffalo 
chips  and  wild  sage  which  answer  tolerably  well  for 
cooking.  The  land  over  which  we  have  traveled,  except 
in  the  several  places  above  mentioned,  is  perfectly  barren 
except  for  wild  sage  which  abounds,  but  there  is  scarcely 
a  spear  of  grass  to  be  seen.  These  granite  ridges  con- 
tinue from  the  Rock  Independence  to  this  place,  mostly 
on  the  north  side  the  river.  Here  they  recede  from  the 
river  a  few  miles  and  then  cease.  There  are  two  of  the 
Missourian  companis  camped,  one  about  a  half  a  mile  and 
and  the  other  a  mile  west  of  us  and  we  are  given  to  un- 
derstand we  have  got  a  long  distance  to  travel  without 
grass  or  water.  It  is  stated  that  a  man  from  one  of 
these  companies  left  his  company  a  few  days  ago  and 
went  ahead  to  examine  the  route,  etc.  On  their  arrival 
here  they  found  him  in  one  of  these  rocky  hills  hid  up  for 
fear  of  the  Indians.  He  reports  that  he  has  been  to 
the  pass  and  that  we  shall  find  water  about  fourteen 
miles  from  here.  He  has  come  from  the  pass  in  two 
nights  and  hid  up  in  the  day  time  to  avoid  Indians,  but 
has  seen  none.  He  says  it  is  not  over  twenty-eight  miles 
to  the  pass  from  here.  After  we  camped,  Burr  Frost 
set  up  his  forge  and  set  some  wagon  tires  and  repaired 


WILLIAM  CLAY  FOX'S  JOURNAL.  261 

the  wheels  of  the  wagons  for  one  of  the  Missourians. 
There  are  no  buffalo  to  be  seen  yet  and  not  much  game 
of  any  kind.  Lewis  Barney  killed  two  antelope  and  the 
brethren  mostly  killed  one  or  two  every  day.  The  Sweet 
Water  mountains  do  not  appear  very  high  but  have  con- 
siderable snow  lying  on  them  in  some  places.  They  ap- 
pear to  run  nearly  parallel  with  the  river  to  about  from 
twenty  to  thirty  miles  distance  to  the  south. 

THURSDAY,  24xn.  Morning  fine  but  cool.  It  was 
calculated  to  make  an  early  start  so  as  to  pass  the  t\vo 
companies  of  the  Missourians  and  get  the  best  chance  for 
feed  at  night,  but  they  started  out  a  half  an  hour  before 
we  were  ready.  We  proceeded  onward  at  6:15  and  a 
little  over  a  mile  from  where  we  camped,  found  the  river 
again  bending  northwest  while  the  road  continues  near 
a  west  course  and  soon  rises  a  high  bluff.  On  the  top  of 
this,  we  appear  to  have  a  level  road  for  many  miles. 
After  traveling  five  miles  from  morning,  we  arrived  at  a 
level  strip  of  land  on  the  north  side  of  the  road  where 
there  is  plenty  of  grass  and  apparently  swampy  and 
soft.  It  extends  in  the  same  direction  with  the  road  a 
mile  and  a  half  and  appears  to  terminate  where  the  road 
crosses  the  lower  land  although  the  grass  and  hollow 
continue  southward  for  some  distance.  Just  above  where 
the  road  crosses  at  the  west  end  there  is  some  water 
standing  around  a  small,  circular,  swampy  spot  of  land 
probably  about  a  half  an  acre.  Near  the  edge  at  the 
northwest  corner  is  a  hole  dug  which  is  called  the  Ice 
Spring.  The  water  in  the  hole  smells  strong  of  sulphur 
or  alkali  and  is  not  pleasant  tasting,  but  under  the  water 
which  is  over  a  foot  deep  there  is  as  clear  ice  as  I  ever 


262  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

saw  and  good  tasting.  Some  of  the  brethren  had  broken 
some  pieces  off  which  floated  and  I  ate  some  of  it  which 
tasted  sweet  and  pleasant.  The  ice  is  said  to  be  four 
inches  thick.  The  water  is  very  cold  although  the  weather 
is  warm.  A  quarter  of  a  mile  farther  than  the  spring, 
there  is  a  small  lake  or  spring  of  alkali  on  the  left  of 
the  road  and  a  little  farther,  still  another  lake.  The  latter 
is  more  pleasant  tasting  than  the  other,  not  being  so 
strong  of  sulphur.  It  tastes  very  much  like  lye  water 
mixed  with  salt.  The  ground  around  these  lakes  is  white 
with  alkali  or  saleratus  and  a  number  of  the  brethren 
picked  up  their  pails  full  but  we  have  learned  that  it 
ought  to  be  used  with  care,  it  being  so  much  stronger 
than  common  saleratus,  if  the  same  quantity  is  used  it 
makes  the  bread  quite  green.  After  traveling  from  the 
ice  spring  ten  and  a  quarter  miles  over  a  very  uneven 
road,  we  descended  a  very  steep  bluff  close  in  the  rear 
of  one  of  the  Missourian  companies.  The  other  had  halted 
a  few  miles  ahead  and  we  passed  by  them.  While  wind- 
ing around  and  descending  from  this  bluff  we  came  in 
sight  of  the  river  again  and  about  the  same  time,  Elder 
Kimball  picked  up  an  Indian  arrow  point  made  of  flint 
stone  and  nearly  perfect.  It  was  almost  as  white  as 
alabaster.  At  3 :30  we  tarried  a  little  south  from  the 
road  and  formed  our  encampment  in  a  line  so  as  to  en- 
close a  bend  in  the  river,  having  traveled  seventeen  and 
three  quarters  miles  without  halting  on  account  of  there 
being  no  water  fit  for  cattle  to  drink.  The  feed  here 
is  very  good  and  plenty  of  willow  bushes  for  fuel.  The 
river  is  about  three  rods  wide  and  clearer  and  very  cool. 
The  last  five  or  six  miles  of  the  road  were  not  so  sandv 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  263 

but  hard  and  good  traveling.  One  of  the  Missourian 
companies  have  gone  on,  but  the  other  camped  a  piece 
down  the  river  at  the  fording  place.  A  while  before  dark 
when  the  brethren  were  fetching  up  their  teams,  John 
Holman,  while  bringing  up  President  Young's  best  horse, 
having  his  loaded  rifle  in  his  hand,  the  horse  undertook 
to  run  back  past  him  and  to  prevent  his  running 
back,  he  jammed  his  gun  at  him.  The  cock  caught  in  his 
clothes,  the  gun  went  off  lodging  the  ball  in  the'animal'.s 
body.  It  entered  a  little  forward  of  the  nigh  hind  leg 
on  the  under  side  of  his  belly  making  quite  a  larg'e  ho-le. 
The  horse  walked  to  camp  but  it  is  the  opinion  of  many 
he  cannot  survive  long.  He  appears  to  be  in  great  pain, 
the  sweat  falling  from  his  forehead  in  large  drops.  Presi- 
dent Young  is  evidently  filled  with  deep  sorrow  on  ac- 
count of  this  accident  but  attaches  no  blame  to  John  who 
seems  grieved  very  much.  The  brethren  generally  feel 
sorrowful,  this  being  the  second  horse  shot  by  accident 
on  this  mission. 

FRIDAY,  25xH.  President  Young's  horse  is  dead. 
The  morning  is  fine  but  very  cool.  At  twenty  minutes 
to  seven  o'clock,  we  pursued  our  journey  fording  the 
river  a  quarter  of  a  mile  below  where  we  left  the  road 
last  night.  We  found  it  still  nearly  three  feet  deep  and 
the  current  very  swift.  After  proceeding  a  half  a  mile 
beyond  the  ford,  we  crossed  a  stream  about  a  rod  wide 
which  appears  to  come  from  the  northeast  .and  empties 
into  the  river  a  little  farther  up.  Half  a  mile  beyond  this 
stream,  we  turned  from  the  river  to  the  northwest  and 
began  to  ascend  a  very  high  bluff  which  we  found  pretty 
steep  and  over  a  mile  and  a  half  to  the  top.  The  road 


264  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

then  gradually  bends  around  towards  the  river  and  be- 
gins to  descend  over  hill  and  hollow  and  at  four  and  a 
quarter  miles  from  where  we  camped,  strikes  the  river 
again  and  continues  a  quarter  of  a  mile  on  its  banks. 
Here  would  be  a  pretty  good  place  to  camp,  there  being 
sufficient  grass  for  a  large  company.  After  traveling  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  near  the  river  we  encountered  another 
high  sandy  ridge,  the  road  again  winding  to  the  north 
to  cross  'it.  The  descent  on  the  west  side  is  very  steep 
and  unpleasant.  We  strike  the  river  again  after  trav- 
eling one  and  a  quarter  miles  from  where  we  last  left  it, 
but  it  is  the  opinion  of  many  that  by  fording  the  river 
twice  at  the  foot  of  the  ridge  we  could  save  a  mile  and 
they  think  it  can  be  forded.  Colonel  Rockwood  has  paid 
particular  attention  to  the  place  and  reports  that  one 
hour's  labor  for  100  men  would  dig  down  the  foot  of 
the  ridge  so  as  to  make  it  good  passing  and  save  rising 
the  ridge  and  a  mile's  travel  without  fording  the  river. 
After  leaving  the  west  foot  of  this  ridge,  we  crossed  a 
stream  about  twenty-five  feet  wide  and  again  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  farther  the  same,  only  about  six  feet  wide. 
On  examining  it,  we  found  it  to  be  a  branch  of  the  river 
running  around  a  piece  of  land  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
across  and  forming  a  semi-circular  island.  The  last  cross- 
ing was  soft  on  both  banks.  The  high  sandy  bluffs  on 
each  side  the  river  seem  to  approach  much  nearer  to 
each  other  and  leave  only  a  small  strip  of  low  land  on 
each  bank.  At  1 1 :20  passed  a  creek  two  feet  wide  and 
halted  for  noon  having  traveled  eight  and  three  quarter~ 
miles,  the  wind  blowing  very  strong  from  the  northwest 
and  making  it  cold  and  unpleasant  traveling  and  filling 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  265 

the  wagons  with  dust.  The  latitude  at  this  halt  by  Elder 
Pratts  observation  is  42°  28'  36".  At  1 :20  we  proceeded 
again,  our  road  running  on  the  river  banks  two  miles 
then  turning  to  the  northwest  and  ascending  a  succession 
of  hills  one  after  another  for  three  miles  farther,  winding 
around  and  over  hill  and  valley  in  some  places  over  a 
good  hard  road,  and  in  other  places  over  rocks  and  broken 
fragments  of  rock,  making  it  severe  on  wagons  and  re- 
quiring great  care  in  teamsters.  About  a  half  mile  north 
of  the  road  at  the  top  «f  this  ridge  there  is  a  heavy  bank 
of  snow  which  some  of  the  brethren  went  to  visit  and 
amused  themselves  by  snowballing  each  other.  Brother 
Carrington  says  there  is  every  appearance  of  a  rich  lead 
mine  in  the  same  place,  he  having  examined  the  place 
minutely.  The  brethren  brought  some  snow  to  the  wag- 
ons and  we  ate  some  of  it  which  tasted  refreshing  in  the 
heat  of  the  day.  After  arriving  on  the  top  of  these  ridges 
we  began  to  descend  gradually  over  rolling  land,  but  the 
descent  is  not  nearly  equal  to  the  ascent.  At  the  dis- 
tance of  seven  and  a  quarter  miles  from  noon  halt,  we 
crossed  a  narrow  wet  swamp  quite  difficult  for  teams 
to  get  the  loads  over  without  help  and  one  and  a  quarter 
miles  beyond  the  swamp  a  creek  a  foot  wide  and  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  farther  still  another  one  two  feet  wide.  These 
all  unite  in  one  about  200  yards  to  the  left  below  the 
middle  creek  and  then  appear  to  pass  under  a  snow  bank 
which  at  present  forms  a  kind  of  bridge  over  the  creek. 
At  6:45  we  formed  our  encampment  on  the  north  banks 
of  a  creek  about  five  feet  wide,  having  traveled  this  af- 
ternoon eleven  and  a  half  miles  and  during  the  day 
twenty  and  a  quarter.  This  creek  is  very  clear  and  cold. 


266  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

Its  banks  are  well  lined  with  willows  and  about  a  mile 
below  the  camp  there  is  a  grove  of  white  poplar  in  which 
house  logs  may  be  obtained  sixteen  feet  long  and  a  foot 
through.  There  are  several  banks  of  snow  a  little  to  the 
north  and  some  of  the  brethren  have  found  ice  four  or 
five  inches  thick  and  brought  a  quantity  of  it  to  camp. 
On  the  banks  of  the  creek  there  are  some  groves  of 
gooseberry  bushes  with  small  green  berries  on  them. 
There  are  also  some  strawberry  roots  and  flowers  and  a 
little  white  clover  has  been  found,  but  there  is  yet  no 
appearance  of  the  great  abundance  of  such  things  as  trav- 
elers have  represented.  The  land  appears  somewhat  more 
likely  to  yield  the  nearer  we  approach  to  the  mountains, 
but  all  calculations  for  farming  in  this  region  would  be 
likely  to  fail  on  account  of  the  scarcity  of  timber.  It 
would  only  be  natural  to  suppose  that  the  nights  are  very 
cold  here,  while  so  much  snow  lies  around.  It  requires 
considerable  clothing  to  keep  comfortable,  but  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  day  it  is  equally  hot.  Some  of  the  brethren 
have  traveled  up  the  banks  of  the  Sweet  Water  river  and 
represent  it  as  tumbling  and  foaming  over  rocks  and  de- 
scending very  rapidly  on  account  of  the  great  rise  of  the 
ground  from  noon  halt  to  this  place.  They  say  it  runs 
within  a  mile  and  a  half  south  of  this  but  it  is  probable 
it  is  only  a  branch  of  it  as  we  are  evidently  not  near  the 
main  branch  yet.  There  is  one  of  the  gentile  companies 
camped  about  a  mile  below,  making  the  third  company 
we  have  passed  lately  and  it  is  the  intention  to  keep  ahead 
of  them  and  have  the  advantage  of  the  good  feed  and 
camping  grounds. 

SATURDAY,  26rn.     Morning  very  cold  and  consider- 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  267 

able  ice  froze  in  the  water  pails  during  the  night.  At 
7:40  we  crossed  the  creek  and  pursued  our  journey.  At 
one  mile  we  passed  a  small  creek  which  rises  from  springs 
a  little  south  of  the  road  where  there  is  a  small  grove  of 
small  timber.  Elder  Pratt  has  gone  ahead  with  the  bar- 
ometer to  try  to  find  the  culminating  point  or  highest 
dividing  ridge  of  the  South  Pass  as  we  are  evidently  at 
the  east  foot  of  the  pass.  Freemont  represents  that  he 
did  not  discover  the  highest  point  on  account  of  the 
ascent  being  so  gradual  that  they  were  beyond  it  be- 
fore they  were  aware  of  it,  although  in  company  with  a 
man  who  has  traveled  it  back  and  forth  for  seventeen 
years.  At  two  and  three-quarters  miles  beyond  the  last 
small  creek,  we  crossed  the  branch  of  the  Sweet  Water 
about  two  rods  wide  and  two  feet  deep,  the  water  clear 
and  cold.  This  would  be  a  good  camp  ground  were  it 
not  so  cold,  as  it  must  be  from  the  fact  that  large  deep 
banks  of  snow  are  now  lying  on  its  banks  both  above 
and  below  the  road.  Where  the  snow  doesn't  lie,  there 
is  good  grass  and  plenty  of  willow  groves  for  fuel.  Two 
and  a  quarter  miles  beyond  this  branch  we  crossed  an- 
other stream  about  eight  feet  wide  on  an  average,  though 
where  the  ford  is,  it  is  nearly  three  rods  wide  and  two 
feet  deep.  This  water  is  also  very  clear  and  the  banks 
well  lined  with  willows  and  grass.  It  is  considered  a 
superior  camping  ground  to  the  one  back.  There  seem  to 
be  a  great  many  antelope  at  the  foot  of  the  mountains 
which  is  about  all  the  game  to  be  seen.  After  crossing 
the  last  stream,  we  climb  another  high  range  of  hills 
over  a  good  road,  gently  rolling.  From  the  top  of  this  is 
a  pleasant  view  of  the  surrounding  country  but  all  en- 


268  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

tirely  destitute  of  timber  except  on  and  at  the  base  of 
the  mountains  many  miles  distance  from  the  road.  We 
have  also  a  good  view  of  Table  Rock  to  the  southwest  as 
well  as  the  high,  broken,  white  capped  chain  of  the  Wind 
River  mountains  on  the  north.  At  12:40  we  halted  ou 
the  main  branch  of  the  Sweet  Water  having  traveled 
eleven  miles.  The  river  here  is  about  three  rods  wide, 
three  feet  deep  and  current  very  swift.  The  water  is 
clear  and  cold  as  the  snow  which  lies  on  its  banks  in 
places  six  or  eight  feet  deep.  This  is  a  lovely  place  for 
a  camp  ground,  there  being  abundance  of  good,  rich  grass 
about  eight  inches  high  and  plenty  of  willows  for  fuel. 
Some  of  the  boys  and  girls  amused  themselves  by  snow- 
balling each  other  on  one  of  the  large  snow  banks  a  few 
rods  below  the  camp.  Soon  after  we  halted  Eric  Glines 
came  up,  having  left  the  brethren  at  the  upper  ferry  on 
the  Platte  River  on  Wednesday  morning.  He  camped 
one  night  alone,  the  other  nights  he  camped  with  Mis- 
sourians.  He  does  not  assign  any  reason  why  he  fol- 
lowed us,  but  evidently  considering  to  repent  and  obey 
council  than  to  continue  obstinate  and  rebellious.  The 
weather  is  now  warm  and  pleasant  and  but  little  wind. 
At  2 :20  we  moved  onward,  ascending  again  on  pretty 
high  land  where  we  found  good  traveling.  The  latitude 
at  our  noon  halt  was  42°  22'  42".  After  traveling  seven 
miles  this  afternoon  we  arrived  on  a  level  spot  of  lower 
land  and  some  grass,  and  inasmuch  as  we  have  found  no 
stream  as  laid  down  on  Freemont's  map  since  leaving  the 
Sweet  Water,  neither  is  there  much  appearance  of  any 
for  some  miles  farther,  the  wagons  halted  while  Presi- 
dent Young  and  some  others  went  over  the  ridge  to  the 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  269 

north  to  look  for  a  camp  ground  as  some  of  the  brethren 
said  the  Sweet  Water  was  close  by.  President  Young 
soon  sent  a  message  for  the  camp  to  proceed,  leaving  the 
road  and  taking  a  northwest  course.  At  6 :45  we  formed 
our  encampment  on  the  banks  of  the  Sweet  Water,  at  the 
distance  of  a  little  over  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  road, 
having  traveled  this  afternoon  seven  and  a  quarter  miles, 
and  during  the  day  eighteen  and  a  quarter.  This  is  a 
good  place  to  camp,  there  being  plenty  of  grass  and  wil- 
lows. There  are  many  small  pebbles  of  hard  flint  rock 
on  the  flat  land  a  little  back  and  some  almost  as  clear 
as  glass.  Elders  Kimball,  Pratt  and  some  others  are 
some  miles  ahead  and  not  having  returned  at  dark,  a 
number  of  the  brethren  were  sent  to  meet  them.  They 
soon  returned  in  company  with  Elder  Kimball  who  re- 
ported that  he  had  been  on  as  much  as  six  miles  to  where 
the  head'  waters  of  the  Atlantic  divide  from  those  of  the 
Pacific, — that  Elder  Pratt  was  camped  there  with  a  small 
party  of  men  direct  from  Oregon  and  bound  for  the  U. 
S.  It  is  now  a  certainty  that  we  are  yet  two  miles  short 
of  the  dividing  ridge  of  the  South  Pass  by  the  road.  Thb 
ridge  divides  the  headwaters  of  the  Atlantic  from  those 
of  the  Pacific  and  although  not  the  highest  land  we 
have  traveled  over,  it  may  with  propriety  be  said  to  be 
the  summit  of  the  South  Pass.  The  Wind  River  moun- 
tains appear  very  high  from  this  place  but  on  the  south 
there  is  very  little  appearance  of  mountains,  Table  Rock 
itself  appearing  but  a  little  elevated. 

SUNDAY,  27rH.  Morning  fine  but  cold.  The  ox 
teams  started  at  five  minutes  to  eight  and  the  remainder 
shortly  after.  We  soon  met  eight  of  the  Oregon  men 


270  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

on  their  way  back  having  over  twenty  horses  and  mules 
with  them  mostly  laden  with  packs  of  robes,  skins,  etc. 
Several  of  the  brethren  sent  letters  back  by  them.  At 
two  and  three-quarters  miles,  arrived  at  the  dividing- 
ridge  where  Elder  Pratt  took  a  barometrical  observation 
and  found  the  altitude  7,085  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  This  spot  is  27Sl/2  miles  from  Fort  John  and  is 
supposed  to  divide  the  Oregon  and  Indian  Territory  by 
a  line  running  north  and  south.  At  two  miles  farther 
we  arrived  at  where  Elder  Pratt  camped  last  night  on  the 
head  waters  of  the  Green  River  and  although  the  stream 
is  small,  we  have  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  the  current 
run  west  instead  of  east.  The  face  of  the  country  west 
looks  level  except  far  in  the  distance  where  a  range 
of  mountains  peers  up,  their  surface  white  with  snow. 
There  is  good  grass  here  but  no  timber  nor  in  fact  any 
in  sight  except  on  the  mountains.  Since  leaving  the 
pass  we  have  descended  considerably,  winding  around 
and  between  high  bluffs  or  hills,  but  the  road  is  good. 
One  of  the  Oregon  men  is  returning  with  us  today  and 
then  intends  to  wait  for  the  next  companies,  etc.,  and  act 
as  a  pilot  for  them.  His  name  is  Harris  and  he  appears  to 
be  extensively  known  in  Oregon  and  the  subject  of  much 
dispute  on  account  of  his  having  found  out  a  new  route 
to  Oregon  much  south  of  the  old  one.  He  appears  to 
be  a  man  of  intelligence  and  well  acquainted  with  the 
western  country.  He  presented  a  file  of  the  Oregon 
papers  commencing  with  February  11,  1847,  and  five  fol- 
lowing numibers  for  our  perusal  during-  the  day.  He  also 
presented  a  number  of  the  California  Star  published  at 
Yerba  Ruena  bv  Samuel  Brannan  and  edited  by  E.  P. 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  271 

Jones.  I  had  the  privilege  of  perusing  several  of  these 
papers  during  the  day  but  found  little  interesting  news. 
Mr.  Harris  says  he  is  well  acquainted  with  the  Bear 
River  vaiiey  and  the  region  around  the  salt  lake.  From 
his  description,  which  is  very  discouraging,  we  have  lit- 
tle chance  to  hope  for  even  a  moderately  good  country 
anywhere  in  those  regions.  He  speaks  of  the  whole  re- 
gion as  being  sandy  and  destitute  of  timber  and  vegeta- 
tion except  the  wild  sage.  He  gives  the  most  favorable 
account  of  a  small  region  under  the  Bear  River  moun- 
tains called  the  Cache  Valley  where  they  have  practiced 
caching  their  robes,  etc..  to  hide  them  from  the  Indians. 
He  represents  this  as  being  a  fine  place  to  winter  cattle. 
After  halting  some  time  we  proceeded  onward  and 
crossed  the  stream  which  is  about  three  feet  wide,  then 
halted  on  its  banks  at  twelve  o'clock,  having  traveled  six 
and  a  quarter  miles,  the  day  warm.  The  latitude  at  this 
halt  was  42°  18'  58".  At  2:25  we  started  again  and  pro- 
ceeded over  gently  rolling  land,  and  good  hard  road  till 
6 :40  when  we  formed  our  encampment  on  the  west  banks 
of  the  Dry  Sandy,  having  traveled  this  afternoon  nine 
miles  and  during  the  day  fifteen  and  a  'quarter.  The 
country  west  for  many  miles  appears  destitute  of  timber 
and  the  view  is  very  extensive.  There  is  very  little  grass 
to  be  seen  anywhere  and  not  much  near  this  creek.  There 
is  but  little  water  in  the  creek  at  first  sight,  but  by  dig- 
ging and  tramping  on  the  quick  sand,  sufficient  can 
easily  be  obtained  to  supply  a  large  company.  Elder  Kim- 
ball  has  been  on  the  road  nearly  two  miles  farther  but 
discovered  no  chance  for  a  camping  ground  better  than 
this.  Mr.  Harris  has  described  a  vallev  fortv  miles  above 


272  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

the  mouth  of  the  Bear  River,  and  thirty  miles  below  the 
Hear  Springs  which  might  answer  our  purpose  pretty 
well  if  the  report  is  true.  It  is  about  thirty  miles  long 
and  fifteen  miles  wide  and  tolerably  well  timbered.  We 
generally  feel  that  we  shall  know  best  by  going  ourselves 
for  the  reports  of  travelers  are  so  contradictory  it  is  im- 
possible to  know  which  is  the  truth  without  going  to 
prove  it.  It  is  three  years  today  since  our  brethren  Joseph 
and  Hyrum  were  taken  from  us  and  it  was  the  general 
feeling  to  spend  the  day  in  fasting  and  prayer  but  the 
gentile  companies  being  close  in  our  rear  and  feed  scarce, 
it  was  considered  necessary  to  keep  ahead  of  them,  for  the 
benefit  of  our  teams,  but  many  minds  have  reverted  back 
to  the  scenes  at  Carthage  jail,  and  it  is  a  gratification 
that  we  have  so  far  prospered  in  our  endeavors  to  get 
from  under  the  grasp  of  our  enemies. 

MONDAY,  28xH.  Morning  fine  but  cool.  Many  of  the 
brethren  are  trading  with  Mr.  Harris  for  pants,  jackets, 
shirts,  etc.,  made  of  buckskins  and  also  the  skins  them- 
selves. He  sells  them  high.  The  skins  at  $1.50  and 
$2.00;  a  pair  of  pants  $3.00,  etc.  He  will  take  rifles, 
powder,  lead;  caps  or  calico  and  domestic  shirts  in  ex- 
change but  puts  his  own  price  on  both  sides  and  it  is 
difficult  to  obtain  even  a  fair  trade.  At  half  past  seven 
we  proceeded  on  our  journey.  MJr.  Harris  waiting  for 
the  other  companies.  After  traveling  six  miles  the  road 
forks,  one  continuing  a  west  course,  the  other  taking  a. 
southwest  course.  We  took  the  left  hand  road  which 
leads  to  California.  This  junction  of  the  road  is  297l/2 
miles  from  Fort  John.  We  then  continued  to  travel  over 
a  desert  land  yielding  nothing  but  wild  sage  and  occa- 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  273 

sionally  a  grass  root  and  weeds  until  1 :30  when  we  ar- 
rived and  halted  for  noon  on  the  banks  of  the  Little 
Sandy,  having  traveled  thirteen  and  a  half  miles  with- 
out signs  of  wood,  water  or  feed  for  our  teams.  This 
stream  is  about  twenty  feet  wide  on  an  average  but  at 
the  fording  place  over  three  rods,  two  and  a  half  feet 
deep,  muddy  water  and  swift  current.  There  is  not  much 
grass  and  no  timber  except  willow  bushes.  There  is  a 
variety  of  roots  bearing  very  handsome  colored  flowers. 
One  of  the  brethren  has  picked  up  a  large  piece  of  petri- 
fied wood.  It  resembles  the  outside  layer  of  a  cotton 
wood  tree  next  to  the  bark,  and  appears  to  have  rotted 
and  broken  off  short  then  petrified  and  turned  to  a  solid, 
heavy,  hard,  flint  stone,  but  retaining  its  original  shape 
and  appearance.  At  4:15  we  commenced  fording  the 
river  and  found  it  in  no  way  difficult  until  a  number  of 
the  wagons  had  gotten  over  and  the  banks  began  to  be 
soft  and  muddy.  Several  of  the  latter  teams  required 
help.  At  4:45  all  were  safely  over  with  no  loss  except 
two  tar  buckets  considered  to  be  of  no  worth.  We  then 
proceeded  on,  expecting  to  go  about  eight  miles  farther, 
but  ?.rier  traveling  a  little  over  a  mile  we  were  met  by 
Elder  G.  A.  Smith  who  introduced  us  to  Mr.  Bridger  of 
Bridger's  Fort  on  his  way  to  Fort  John  in  company  with 
two  of  his  men.  Mr.  Bridger  being  informed  that  we  had 
designed  to  call  at  his  place  to  make  some  inquiries  about 
the  country,  etc.,  he  said  if  we  would  turn  off  the  road 
here  and  camp,  he  would  stay  with  us  till  morning.  A 
camping  place  being  selected  we  turned  off  from  the 
road  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  and  formed  our  encamp- 
ment near  the  Sandy  at  six  o'clock,  having  traveled  this 

19 


274  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

afternoon  one  and  three-quarters  miles,  exclusive  of  al- 
lowance for  leaving  the  road,  and  during  the  day  fifteen 
and  a  quarter  miles.  We  have  pretty  good  feed  here, 
enough  to  fill  the  teams  well.  A  while  after  we  camped, 
the  twelve  and  several  others  went  to  Mr.  Bridger  to 
make  some  inquiries  concerning  our  future  route,  the 
country,  etc.  It  was  impossible  to  form  a  correct  idea 
of  either  from  the  very  imperfect  and  irregular  way  he 
gave  his  descriptions,  but  the  general  items  are  in  sub- 
stance as  follows: 

We  will  find  better  grass  as  we  proceed  farther  on. 
His  business  is  to  Fort  Laramie.  His  traders  have  gone 
there  with  robes,  skins,  etc.,  to  fill  a  contract,  but  having 
started  later  than  they  intended  the  men  at  Laramie  have 
taken  advantage  of  the  delay  and  he  is  going  to  see  to  the 
business  himself.  There  is  no  blacksmith  shop  at  his 
fort  at  present.  There  was  one  but  it  was  destroyed. 
There  have  been  nearly  a  hundred  wagons  gone  on  the 
Hastings  route  through  Weber's  Fork.  They  cross 
the  Blacks  Fork  and  go  a  little  south  of  west  from  his 
place  and  pass  below  the  mountains  which  cross  Green 
river.  The  Green  river  runs  over  an  extent  of  country 
of  400  miles.  It  is  impossible  for  wagons  to  follow  down 
Green  river,  neither  can  it  be  followed  with  boats.  Some 
have  gone  down  with  canoes,  but  had  great  difficulty  get- 
ting back  on  account  of  the  rapid  current  and  rough 
channel.  Cannot  pass  the  mountains  close  to  the  river 
even  with  horses.  For  some  distance  beyond  this  chain 
of  mountains,  the  country  is  level  and  beyond  that  it  is 
hard  black  rock  which  looks  as  if  it  were  glazed  when  the 
sun  shines  on  it,  and  so  hard  and  sharp  it  will  cut  a 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  275 

horse's  feet  to  pieces.  When  we  get  below  the  moun- 
tains, the  Green  River  falls  into  a  level  country  for  some 
distance  after  which  it  winds  through  a  mountainous 
country  perfectly  barren  to  the  Gulf  of  California.  From 
Bridger's  fort  to  the  salt  lake,  Hastings  said  was  about 
one  hundred  miles.  He  has  been  through  fifty  times 
but  can  form  no  correct  idea  of  the  distance.  Mr.  Hast- 
ings' route  leaves  the  Oregon  route  at  his  place.  We  can 
pass  the  mountains  farther  south,  but  in  some  places  we 
would  meet  with  heavy  bodies  of  timber  and  would  have 
to  cut  our  way  through.  In  the  Bear  River  valley  there 
is  oak  timber,  sugar  trees,  cottonwood,  pine  and  maple. 
There  is  not  an  abundance  of  sugar  maple  but  plenty  of 
as  splendid  pine  as  he  ever  saw.  There  is  no  timber  on 
the  Utah  Lake  only  on  the  streams  which  empty  into 
it.  In  the  outlet  of  the  Utah  Lake  which  runs  into  the 
salt  lake  there  is  an  abundance  of  blue  grass  and  red 
and  white  clover.  The  outlet  of  the  Utah  Lake  does  not 
form  a  large  river,  neither  a  rapid  current  but  the  water 
is  muddy  and  low  banks.  Some  of  his  men  have  been 
around  the  salt  lake  in  canoes.  They  went  out  hunting 
and  had  their  horses  stolen  by  the  Indians.  They  then 
went  around  the  lake  in  canoes  hunting  beaver  and  were 
three  months  going  around  it.  They  said  it  was  550 
miles  around  it.  The  Utah  tribe  of  Indians  inhabit  the 
region  around  the  Utah  Lake  and  are  a  bad  people.  If 
they  catch  a  man  alone  they  are  sure  to  rob  and  abuse 
him  if  they  don't  kill  him,  but  parties  of  men  are  in  no 
danger.  They  are  mostly  armed  with  guns.  There  was 
a  man  opened  a  farm  in  the  Bear  River  valley.  The  soil 
is  good  and  likely  to  produce  corn  were  it  not  for  the  ex- 
cessive cold  nights  which  he  thinks  would  prevent  the 


276  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

growth  of  corn.  There  is  a  good  country  south  of  the 
Utah  Lake  or  southeast  of  the  great  basin.  There  are 
three  large  rivers  which  enter  into  the  Sevier  Lake  un- 
known to  travelers.  There  is  also  a  splendid  range  of 
country  on  the  north  side  of  the  California  mountains 
calculated  to  produce  every  kind  of  grain  and  fruit  and 
there  are  several  places  where  a  man  might  pass  from  it 
over  the  mountains  to  the  California  settlements  in  one 
day.  There  is  a  vast  abundance  of  timber  and  plenty  of 
coal.  There  is  also  plenty  of  coal  in  this  region  near  the 
mountains.  North  of  the  California  mountains  there  is 
walnut,  oak,  ash,  hickory,  and  various  kinds  of  good  tim- 
ber on  and  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  mountains  and 
streams  southeast  of  the  great  basin.  There  can  be  a 
wagon  road  made  through  to  it  and  no  lack  of  water.  The 
great  desert  extends  from  the  salt  lake  to  the  Gulf  of 
California  which  is  perfectly  barren.  He  supposes  it  to 
have  been  an  arm  of  the  sea.  The  three  rivers  before 
mentioned  are  southwest  of  the  desert.  There  is  a  tribe 
of  Indians  in  that  country  who  are  unknown  to  either 
travelers  or  geographers.  They  make  farms  and  raise 
abunadnce  of  grain  of  various  kinds.  He  can  buy  any 
quantity  of  the  very  best  of  wheat  there.  This  country 
lies  southeast  of  the  salt  lake.  There  is  one  mountain 
in  that  region  and  the  country  adjoining  in  which  he  con- 
siders if  ever  there  was  a  promised  land,  that  must  be  it. 
There  is  a  kind  of  cedar  grows  on  it  which  bears  fruit 
something  like  juniper  berries  of  a  yellow  color  about 
the  size  of  an  ordinary  plum.  The  Indians  grind  the 
fruit  and  it  makes  the  best  kind  of  meal.  He  could  easily 
gather  a  hundred  bushels  off  one  tree.  He  has  lived  on 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  277 

this  fruit  and  used  to  pick  his  hat  full  in  a  very  short 
time.  There  are  a  great  many  little  streams  head  in  this 
•nountain  and  many  good  springs.  It  is  about  twenty 
days'  travel  with  horses  from  the  salt  lake,  but  the  coun- 
try to  it  is  bad  to  get  through  and  over  a  great  part  of  it, 
nothing  for  animals  to  subsist  on.  He  supposes  there 
might  be  access  to  it  from  Texas.  On  one  of  the  rivers 
there  is  a  splendid  copper  mine,  a  whole  mountain  of  it. 
It  also  abounds  in  gold,  silver  and  has  a  good  quick  silver 
mine.  There  is  iron,  coal,  etc.  The  land  is  good ;  the 
soil  rich.  All  the  valleys  abound  with  persimmons  and 
grapes  which  will  make  the  best  kind  of  wines.  He  never 
saw  any  grapes  on  the  Utah  Lake,  but  there  are  plenty 
of  cherries  and  berries  of  several  kinds.  He  thinks  the 
Utah  Lake  is  the  best  country  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Salt 
Lake  and  the  country  is  still  better  the  farther  south  we 
go  until  we  meet  the  desert  which  is  upwards  of  200  miles 
south  from  the  Utah  Lake.  There  is  plenty  of  timber  on 
all  the  streams  and  mountains  and  abundance  of  fish  in 
the  streams.  There  is  timber  all  around  the  Utah  Lake 
and  plenty  of  good  grass;  not  much  of  the  wild  sage 
only  in  small  patches.  Wild  flax  grows  in  most  of  the 
valleys  and  they  are  the  richest  lands.  He  passed  through 
that  country  a  year  ago  last  summer  in  the  month  of 
July,  and  they  generally  had  one  or  two  showers  every 
day  sometimes  a  very  heavy  thunder  shower  but  not  ac- 
companied by  strong  wind.  By  following  under  the  moun- 
tain south  of  the  Utah  Lake  we  find  another  river  which 
enters  into  anther  lake  about  fifty  miles  south  of  the 
Utah  Lake.  We  shall  find  plenty  of  water  from  here 
to  Bridger's  Fort  except  after  we  cross  Green  River  and 


278  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

travel  five  miles  beyond  it  where  we  shall  have  to  travel 
eighteen  or  twenty  miles  without  water,  but  there  is 
plenty  of  grass.  After  crossing  Green  River  we  follow 
down  it  four  or  five  miles  to  the  old  station  then  cross 
over  to  a  stream  which  heads  in  the  mountains  west.  The 
station  is  more  than  half  way  from  here  to  his  place. 
We  shall  have  no  streams  to  ferry  between  here  and  the 
fort  except  Green  River.  The  Indians  south  of  the  Utah 
Lake  and  this  side  the  desert  raise  corn,  wheat  and  other 
kinds  of  grain  and  produce  in  abundance.  The  Utah's 
abound  more  on  the  west  of  the  mountains  near  the  salt 
lake  than  on  the  east  side,  ten  to  one,  but  we  have  no 
need  to  fear  them  for  we  can  drive  the  whole  of  them 
in  twenty- four  hours  but  he  would  not  kill  them,  he 
would  make  slaves  of  them.  The  Indians  south  of  the 
Utah  Lake  raise  as  good  corn,  wheat,  and  pumpkins  as 
were  ever  raised  in  old  Kentucky.  He  knows  of  a  lead 
mine  between  the  mountains  and  Laramie  on  a  timbered 
creek  near  the  Horseshoe  creek.  He  has  found  lead  there 
and  thinks  there  is  considerable  silver  in  it.  It  can  be 
found  in  a  cave  on  the  side  of  the  mountain  not  far  from 
the  road. 

Such  was  the  information  we  obtained  from  Mr. 
Bridger,  but  we  shall  know  more  about  things  and  have 
a  better  understanding  when  we  have  seen  the  country 
ourselves.  Supper  had  been  provided  for  Mr.  Bridger 
and  his  men  and  the  latter  having  eaten,  the  council  dis- 
missed, Mr.  Bridger  going  with  President  Young  to  sup- 
per, the  remainder  retiring  to  their  wagons  conversing 
over  the  subject  touched  upon.  The  evening  was  very 
fine  but  mosquitoes  numerous. 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  279 

TUESDAY,  29xH.  Morning  very  pleasant  till  the 
sun  got  up  a  little,  then  it  was  very  hot.  We  started  at 
7 :40  and  traveled  over  very  good  roads  through  barren 
land  till  10:45  then  halted  for  noon  on  the  banks  of  the 
Big  Sandy,  having  traveled  six  and  three-quarters  miles. 
The  second  division  have  passed  over  the  river  but  the 
first  division  halted  on  the  north  side.  This  stream  ap- 
pears to  be  about  seven  rods  wide  at  this  place  and  about 
two  feet  deep  in  the  channel,  but  it  is  not  generally  so 
wide,  but  deeper.  There  is  some  timber  on  its  banks 
and  plenty  of  grass  in  places  for  teams.  At  1 :30  we  again 
proceeded,  President  Young  and  some  others  going  ahead 
in  the  cutter  wagon  to  look  out  a  camp  ground  for  the 
night.  Our  course  still  lies  about  southwest,  the  road 
generally  good  over  gently  rolling,  hard,  sandy  land  and 
in  some  places  the  surface  is  covered  with  loose  frag- 
ments of  hard  rock.  After  traveling  nine  and  a  half 
miles  President  Young  rode  up  and  reported  that  we 
would  have  to  go  at  least  six  miles  farther  before  we 
could  get  feed.  It  was  then  a  quarter  after  six,  but  the 
teamsters  spurred  up  in  order  to  get  through.  Most  of 
the  road  after  this  for  four  miles  was  very  hilly  and  un- 
even and  in  places  the  loose  fragments  of  rocks  made  it 
very  bad  traveling,  but  many  were  thrown  from  the  road 
by  the  spare  men.  The  weather  grew  cooler  towards 
evening,  some  large  clouds  rising  in  the  west  which  fa- 
vored the  teams  considerably.  At  9:05  we  found  our- 
selves on  the  lowlands  on  the  banks  of  the  river  again 
and  formed  our  encampemnt,  having  traveled  since  noon 
seventeen  miles  and  during  the  day  twenty- three  and 
three-quarters,  which  is  the  greatest  day's  journey  we 


280  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

have  made  since  leaving  Winter  Quarters.  The  camp 
was  formed  by  moonlight.  There  seems  to  be  plenty  of 
feed  for  teams  but  no  wood  for  fuel.  Many  of  the  breth- 
ren have  gone  down  sick  within  the  past  three  clays  and  a 
number  more  this  evening.  They  generally  begin  with 
headache,  succeeded  by  violent  fever,  and  some  go  de- 
lirous  for  a  while.  Brother  Fowler  was  seized  this  af- 
ternoon and  this  evening  is  raving.  It  is  supposed  by 
some  that  this  sicknes  is  caused  by  the  use  of  the  mineral 
saleratus  or  alkali  picked  up  on  the  lakes  and  surface  of 
the  land  and  it  is  considered  poisonous.  Some  consider 
also  that  we  inhale  the  effulvium  arising  from  it,  which 
has  the  like  effect.  It  appears  to  be  an  article  which 
ought  to  be  used  with  great  care  if  used  at  all.  There 
has  been  no  case  considered  dangerous  yet,  nor  any  of 
long  duration. 

WEDNESDAY,  3OrH.  Morning  hot.  We  resumed 
our  journey  at  8:15,  several  others  of  the  brethren  being 
reported  sick.  President  Young,  Kimball  and  others 
rode  ahead  again.  We  found  the  roads  very  good  but 
sandy  and  filling  the  wagons  with  dust.  At  1 1 :30  we 
arrived  on  the  banks  of  Green  River,  having  traveled 
eight  miles  and  formed  our  encampment  in  a  line  under 
the  shade  of  the  cottonwood  timber.  This  river  is  about 
sixteen  to  eighteen  rods  wide  and  altogether  too  deep 
to  be  forded.  Its  banks  are  well  lined  with  cottonwood 
but  none  large  enough  to  make  a  canoe.  There  are  also 
many  patches  of  wild  apple  trees,  and  rose  bushes  abound 
tearing  pretty  roses.  This  river  is  338^  miles  from  Fort 
John  or  Laramie.  There  is  a  narrow  strip  of  land  which 
might  answer  for  farming  on  each  bank  of  the  river.  The 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  281 

i^rass  grows  good  and  plentiful  but  still  not  so  much  as 
has  been  represented.  After  dinner  the  brethren  com- 
menced making  two  rafts,  one  for  each  division,  and  a 
•vliile  afterwards  Elder  Samuel  Brannan  arrived,  hav- 
ing come  from  the  Pacific  to  meet  us,  obtain  council, 
etc.  He  is  accompanied  by  Smith  of  the  firm  of  Jackson 
Heaton  &  Bonney,  f>ogus  snakers  of  Nauvoo.  There  is 
another  young  man  in  company  with  them.  They  have 
come  by  way  of  Fort  Hall  and  brought  with  them,  sev- 
eral files  of  the  California  Star.  They  had  eleven  deaths 
on  board  their  ship  during  their  voyage  over,  the  otheis 
I  understand  are  doing  well,  raising  grain,  etc.  Towards 
evening  a  storm  blew  up  from  the  west  and  although  we 
had  no  rain  we  had  tremendous  wind.  The  first  division 
finished  their  raft  before  dark.  There  is  a  slough  a  little 
down  the  river  where  some  of  the  brethren  have  caught 
some  very  nice  fish,  but  the  mosquitoes  are  so  very 
troublesome  it  is  difficult  abiding  out  of  doors. 

THURSDAY,  JULY  1,  1847.  This  morning  found  my- 
self laboring  under  a  severe  attach  of  the  fever,  accomp- 
anied with  violent  aching  in  my  head  and  limbs.  The 
brethren  commenced  ferrying  but  got  only  fourteen 
wagons  over  on  account  of  the  very  high  wind. 

FRIDAY,  2ND.  The  day  was  more  pleasant  and  the 
ferrying  continued  more  rapidly.  I  got  over  the  river 
before  noon  but  remained  very  sick.  Afternoon  the 
twelve  had  a  council  and  decided  to  send  three  or  four 
men  back  to  serve  as  guides  to  the  next  company. 

SATURDAY,  3RD.  The  morning  more  unfavorable. 
The  brethren  got  the  last  wagon  over  before  noon,  no 
accident  having  happened,  and  about  the  time  they  fin- 


282  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

ished  it  commenced  raining,  accompanied  by  thunder  and 
wind.  It  was  concluded  for  some  of  the  brethren  to  go 
on  and  look  out  a  camp  ground  a  few  miles  ahead  so  as 
to  shorten  the  distance  of  the  next  day's  travel.  The 
brethren  returned  about  noon  and  gave  orders  to  harness 
up  and  proceed,  and  at  3  :15  we  moved  forward  and  went 
on  three  miles,  then  formed  encampment  in  the  midst  of 
an  army  of  mosquitoes.  These  insects  are  more  numer- 
ous here  than  I  ever  saw  them  anywhere,  everything  was 
covered  with  them,  making  the  teams  restive  in  the 
wagons.  There  is  plenty  of  grass  for  teams  and  it  is  the 
intention  to  tarry  here  till  Monday  morning.  At  night 
President  Young  gave  the  brethren  some  instructions 
about  trading  at  Fort  Bridger  and  advised  them  to  be 
wise,  etc.  Five  men  were  selected  to  go  back  and  meet 
the  next  company,  viz.  Phineas  Young,  George  Wood- 
ard,  Aaron  Farr,  Eric  Glines  and  Rodney  Badger.  They 
are  to  take  the  cutter  wagon  instead  of  each  taking  a 
horse  which  cannot  be  spared  by  the  camp. 

SUNDAY,  4xH.  The  morning  fine  and  warm.  The 
five  brethren  have  started  back  to  meet  the  other  com- 
pany. President  Young,  Kimball  and  others  went  back 
with  them  to  ferry  them  over  Green  River.  Some  of  the 
brethren  assembled  for  meeting  in  the  circle.  At  2 :30 
p.  m.  the  brethren  returned  from  the  ferry  accompanied 
by  twelve  of  the  Pueblo  brethren  from  the  army.  They 
have  got  their  discharge  and  by  riding  hard  overtaken  us. 
They  feel  well  and  on  arriving  in  camp  gave  three  cheers, 
after  which  President  Young  moved  that  we  give  glory 
to  God  which  was  done  by  hosannas.  William  Walker 
was  with  them  but  has  gone  back  with  the  five  brethren 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  283 

to  meet  his  wife.  The  spot  where  we  are  now  camped 
is  opposite  to  the  junction  of  the  Big  Sandy  and  Green 
River.  On  the  other  side  the  river  there  is  a  range  of 
singular  sandy  buttes  perfectly  destitute  of  vegetation, 
and  on  the  sides  can  be  seen  from  here,  two  caves  which 
are  probably  inhabited  by  wild  bears.  The  view  is  pleas- 
ant and  interesting.  During  the  afternoon  one  of  Brother 
Crow's  oxen  was  found  to  be  poisoned  through  eating 
some  kind  of  a  weed  and  was  much  swollen.  I  under- 
stand it  was  dead  when  they  found  it. 

MONDAY,  STH.  At  eight  o'clock  we  pursued  our 
journey,  many  of  the  brethren  still  being  sick  though 
generally  improving.  After  traveling  three  and  a  half 
miles  on  the  bank  of  the  river  the  road  then  leaves  it 
bending  westward.  We  have  now  a  very  pleasant  view 
of  the  Bear  River  mountains  far  to  the  southwest,  their 
summits  capped  with  snow.  We  found  the  land  some- 
what rolling,  destitute  of  grass  and  several  very  steep 
places  of  descent.  At  4:45  we  arrived  on  the  banks  of 
Blacks  Fork  and  formed  our  encampment,  having  trav- 
eled twenty  miles,  the  last  sixteen  and  a  half  without 
sight  of  water.  This  stream  is  about  six  rods  wide, 
very  swift  current  but  not  deep.  The  bottoms  on  each 
side  are  very  pleasant  but  not  much  grass  for  teams. 
There  is  one  place  in  the  road  where  we  might  have 
saved  a  crook  of  nearly  a  mile  by  digging  down  bank 
which  would  probably  have  detained  us  about  twenty 
minutes,  but  it  was  not  discovered  till  most  of  the  wagons 
had  passed  over. 

TUESDAY,  6TH.     Morning  very  pleasant.  We  started 
on  our  journey  at  7 :50  and  after  traveling  three  and 


284  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

three-quarters  miles,  crossed  Hams  Fork,  a  rapid  stream 
about  three  rods  wide  and  two  feet  deep ;  and  this  would 
be  a  good  place  to  camp,  there  being  an  abundance  of 
high  bunch  grass  on  the  banks.  One  and  a  half  miles 
farther  we  crossed  Blacks  Fork  which  appears  to  be 
about  eight  rods  wide  and  two  and  a  half  feet  deep, 
but  little  grass  near  it.  We  then  leave  the  river  and  wind 
over  uneven  road  with  many  pitches  caused  by  heavy 
rains  washing  the  land,  which  is  generally  barren.  After 
traveling  eleven  miles  beyond  the  last  stream,  crossed  a 
small  creek  about  two  feet  wide  but  no  grass.  At  four 
o'clock  we  crossed  back  over  Blacks  Fork  and  formed 
our  encampment  on  its  banks,  having  traveled  eighteen 
and  a  quarter  miles.  At  this  place  there  is  a  fine  speci- 
men of  the  wild  flax  which  grows  all  around.  It  is  con- 
sidered equal  to  any  cultivated,  bears  a  delicate  blue 
flower.  There  is  also  an  abundance  of  the  rich  bunch 
grass  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  river  back  and  many 
wild  currants.  The  prairies  are  lined  with  beautiful 
flowers  of  various  colors, — chiefly  blue,  red  and  yel- 
low, which  have  a  rich  appearance  and  would  serve  to 
adorn  and  beautify  an  eastern  flower  garden. 

WEDNESDAY,  ?TH.  This  morning  we  proceeded  at 
7:35  and  after  traveling  two  and  a  half  miles,  forded 
Black's  Fork  once  more.  Here  also  is  abundance  of  good 
grass,  wild  flax  and  handsome  flowers.  After  traveling 
two  and  three-quarters  miles  farther,  forded  a  stream 
about  two  rods  wide  and  two  feet  deep,  very  swift  cur- 
rent, also  lined  on  its  banks  with  bunch  grass.  At  twelve 
o'clock  we  halted  for  noon  on  the  banks  of  the  last 
stream,  having  traveled  nine  miles  over  pretty  rough 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  285 

road.  The  day  very  windy  and  filling  the  wagons  with 
dust.  Some  of  the  wagons  have  gone  on  expecting  to 
reach  Bridger's  Fort  before  they  halt.  At  1 :40  we  moved 
forward  and  found  the  road  more  even,  though  in  many 
places  rendered  bad  by  the  cobble  stones.  After  travel- 
ing seven  and  a  half  miles  we  arrived  opposite  to  nine 
Indian  lodges  erected  on  the  south  of  the  road.  Here  we 
halted  a  while  and  found  Tim  Goodale  here,  one  of  the 
trappers  w'ho  passed  us  at  the  Platte  ferry.  There  are 
not  many  Indians  here  but  they  appear  to  have  a  great 
many  handsome  ponies.  We  then  continued  on  and  after 
fording  four  creeks  on  an  average  about  a  rod  wide,  we 
arrived  at  Fort  Bridger  which  is  proved  by  the  roado- 
meter  to  be  397  miles  from  Fort  John.  We  went  half  a 
mile  beyond  the  fort  and  formed  our  encampment  after 
crossing  three  more  creeks,  having  traveled  this  after- 
noon eight  and  three-quarters  miles  and  during  the  day 
seventeen  and  three-quarters.  The  grass  is  very  plenti- 
ful in  this  neighborhood  and  much  higher  than  we  have 
generally  seen  it.  The  whole  region  seems  filled  with 
rapid  streams  all  bending  their  way  to  the  principal  fork. 
They  doubtless  originate*  from  the  melting  of  the  snow 
on  the  mountains  and  roar  down  their  cobbly  beds  till 
they  join  Black's  Fork.  Bridger's  Fort  is  composed  of 
two  double  log  houses  about  forty  feet  long  each  and 
joined  by  a  pen  for  horses  about  ten  feet  high  constructed 
by  placing  poles  upright  in  the  ground  close  together, 
which  is  all  the  appearance  of  a  fort  in  sight.  There 
are  several  Indian  lodges  close  by  and  a  full  crop  of 
young  children  playing  around  the  door.  These  Indians 
are  said  to  be  of  the  Snake  tribe,  the  Utahs  inhabiting 


286  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

beyond  the  mountains.  The  latitude  of  Fort  Bridger  is 
41°  19'  13"  and  its  height  above  the  level  of  the  sea  ac- 
cording to  Elder  Pratt's  observations  is  6,665  feet.  It  is 
doubtless  a  very  cold  region  and  little  calculated  for 
farming  purposes.  To  the  west  is  a  pretty  high  mountain 
which  appears  well  covered  with  timber.  The  country 
all  around  looks  bleak  and  cold. 

THURSDAY,  STH.  Morning  fine  but  high  wind.  It 
is  concluded  to  stay  a  day  here  to  set  some  wagon  tires, 
etc.  Many  have  gone  to  trade  their  rifles  and  some 
clothing  for  buckskins.  H.  Egan  traded  two  rifles  and 
got  twenty  pretty  good  skins  for  them.  The  day  con- 
tinued warm  with  high  wind.  Evening  there  was  a  coun- 
cil and  some  complaints  listened  to  from  George  Mills 
against  Andrew  Gibbons.  It  was  decided  for  Thomas 
Williams  and  S.  Brannan  to  return  from  here  and  meet 
Captain  Brown's  company  from  Pueblo.  Inasmuch  as 
the  brethren  have  not  received  their  discharge  nor  their 
paw  from  the  United  States,  Brother  Brannan  goes  to 
tender  his  services  as  pilot  to  conduct  a  company  of 
fifteen  or  twenty  to  San  Francisco  if  they  feel  disposed 
to  go  there  and  try  to  get  their  pay.  Williams  came 
clothed  with  authority  to  arrest  Tim  Goodale  or  one  of 
his  men  for  stealing  a  horse  at  Pueblo,  but  he  can  get 
no  encouragement  from  President  Young  to  make  the 
attempt. 

FRIDAY,  9iH.  .We  started  at  eight  o'clock,  the 
brethren  who  go  back  bidding  good  bye  to  the  camp  and 
proceeding  on  their  back  journey  while  we  moved  west- 
ward over  pretty  rough  roads.  After  traveling  six  and 
a  quarter  miles,  we  arrived  at  the  springs  and  halted 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  287 

a  while  to  rest  our  teams.  We  then  proceeded  on  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  and  began  to  ascend  a  long  steep  hill, 
near  the  top  of  which  and  eight  miles  from  Fort  Bridger, 
Elder  Pratt  took  an  observation  and  found  the  latitude 
41°  16'  11".  Arriving  on  the  top  we  found  the  table 
tolerably  level  for  several  miles  then  began  to  descend  to 
the  bottom  again.  The  descent  from  this  hill  is  the  steep- 
est and  most  difficult  we  have  ever  met  with,  being  long 
and  almost  perpendicular.  At  three  o'clock  \ve  crossed 
the  Muddy  Fork,  a  stream  about  twelve  feet  wide,  and 
formed  our  encampment  on  the  west  bank,  having  trav- 
eled since  the  halt  six  and  three-quarters  miles  and  dur- 
ing the  day  thirteen.  Here  is  plenty  of  tall  bunch  grass 
and  a  pretty  good  chance  for  our  teams.  The  day  has 
been  windy,  warm  and  dusty. 

SATURDAY,  lOrn.  Started  this  morning  at  eight 
o'clock,  weather  warm  with  tolerably  high  wind.  After 
traveling  three  and  a  half  miles  we  passed  a  small  cop- 
peras spring  at  the  foot  of  a  mountain  a  little  to  the  left 
of  the  road.  The  water  is  very  clear  but  tastes  very 
strong  of  copperas  and  alum  and  has  a  somewhat  singular 
effect  on  the  mouth.  It  runs  a  little  distance  over  the  red 
sand  which  abounds  in  this  region  and  where  it  is  satur- 
ated with  water  almost  looks  like  blood  at  a  little  dis- 
tance. After  passing  this  spring  the  road  winds  around 
the  foot  of  mountains  gradually  ascending  for  some  dis- 
tance till  finally  arriving  on  the  summit  of  a  high  ridge. 
Here  Elder  Pratt  took  a  barometrical  observation  and 
found  the  height  to  be  7,315  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  On  arriving  at  the  west  side  of  the  ridge  two  and 
a  half  miles  from  the  last  mentioned  spring  we  found  a 


288  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

very  steep,  rough  place  to  descend  and  found  it  neces- 
sary to  halt  and  fix  the  road.  About  half  way  down  there 
is  a  place  over  huge  rocks,  leaving  barely  enough  room 
for  a  wagon  to  get  down,  but  by  labor  it  was  soon  made 
passable.  A  little  farther,  the  brethren  had  to  dig  a  place 
considerably  to  make  a  pass  between  the  mountains.  Pres- 
ident Young  and  Kimball  labored  hard  with  a  number 
of  others  and  in  about  a  half  an  hour  made  a  good  road. 
At  twenty  miles  from  Fort  Bridger,  passed  another 
spring  and  a  little  farther  after  arriving  on  the  bottom 
land,  the  road  turns  nearly  south  through  a  beautiful 
low  bottom  filled  with  grass.  At  1 :45  we  halted  for 
noon,  having  traveled  nine  miles.  Latitude  41°  14'  21". 
After  halting  an  hour  and  a  half  we  proceeded  again  and 
after  traveling  three  and  a  half  miles  began  to  ascend 
the  dividing  ridge  between  the  Colorado  waters  and  the 
great  basin.  This  mountain  is  very  high  and  the  ascent 
steep,  rendering  it  necessary  to  make  a  crooked  road  to 
gain  the  summit.  The  height  is  7,700  feet  according  to 
Elder  Pratt's  observations.  The  surface  at  the  top  is 
narrow.  Here  three  bears  were  seen  to  run  over  a  still 
higher  mountain  on  the  left.  The  descent  was  very  steep, 
having  to  lock  the  wagons  for  half  a  mile.  We  then  de- 
scend and  travel  on  the  bottom  a  few  miles  between  high 
rugged  mountains  till  the  road  seems  suddenly  to  be 
shut  up  by  a  high  mountain  ahead.  The  road  here  turns 
suddenly  to  the  left  and  goes  east  about  200  yards  then 
winds  again  southwest.  After  ascending  and  descending 
another  high  ridge,  we  crossed  a  small  creek  about  ten 
feet  wide  and  at  7 :45  formed  our  encampment  on  the 
southwest  banks,  having  traveled  this  afternoon  nine 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  289 

miles  and  during  the  day  eighteen  over  the  most  moun- 
tainous course  we  have  yet  seen.  After  camping,  Mr. 
Miles  Goodyear  came  into  camp.  He  is  the  man  who  is 
making  a  farm  in  the  Bear  River  valley.  He  says  it  is 
yet  seventy-five  miles  to  his  place,  although  we  are  now 
within  two  miles  of  Bear  River.  His  report  of  the  val- 
ley is  more  favorable  than  some  we  have  heard  but  we 
have  an  idea  he  is  anxious  to  have  us  make  a  road  to  his 
place  through  selfish  motives.  Elder  Pratt  has  found  a 
beautiful  spring  of  clear,  sweet,  cold  water  about  a  hun- 
dred yards  southwest  from  the  camp.  Water  excellent. 

SUNDAY,  HTH.  Morning  fine  with  ice  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  thick  on  the  water  pails.  Walked  on  the  moun 
tain  east  with  President  Young  and  Kimball,  from 
whence  we  had  a  pleasing  view  of  the  surrounding  val- 
ley which  is  about  ten  miles  wide.  Abundance  of  tim- 
ber on  the  mountains  south  and  southwest  and  beyond 
that  plenty  of  snow.  After  having  prayers,  we  again  de- 
scended and  at  the  foot  discovered  a  very  strong  sulphur 
spring.  The  surface  of  the  water  is  covered  with  flour 
of  sulphur  and  where  it  oozes  from  the  rocks  is  per- 
fectly black.  The  water  in  the  creek  shows  sulphur 
very  clearly  and  smells  bad.  During  the  day  some  of  the 
brethren  discovered  an  oil  spring  about  a  mile  south. 
The  substance  which  rises  out  of  the  ground  resembles 
tar  and  is  very  oily.  Some  have  oiled  their  gun  stocks 
with  it  and  oiled  their  shoes,  others  have  gone  to  fill 
iheir  tar  buckets  and  are  sanguine  it  will  answer  well 
to  grease  wagons.  It  is  somewhat  singular  to  find  such 
a  great  contrast  of  substances  within  so  short  a  distance. 
Here  is  pure  water,  sulphur,  and  oily  tar  within  a  mile  of 

20 


290  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

each  other,  and  matter  of  curiosity  all  around  for  the 
contemplation  of  the  curious.  Porter,  Brother  Little  and 
others  have  been  out  with  Goodyear  to  view  the  route  he 
wishes  us  to  take.  They  represent  it  as  being  bad  enough, 
but  we  are  satisfied  it  leads  too  far  out  of  our  course  to 
be  tempted  to  try  it.  ^There  are  some  in  camp  who  are 
getting  discouraged  about  the  looks  of  the  country  but 
thinking  minds  are  not  much  disappointed,  and  we  have 
no  doubt  of  finding  a  place  where  the  Saints  can  live 
which  is  all  we  ought  to  ask  or  expect.  It  is  evident  the 
country  grows  better  as  we  proceed  west,  and  vegetation 
is  more  plentiful  and  looks  richer./^  After  dark,  a  meet- 
ing was  called  to  decide  which  of  the  two  roads  we  shall 
take  from  here.  It  was  voted  to  take  the  right  hand  or 
northern  road,  but  the  private  feelings  of  all  the  twelve 
were  that  the  other  would  be  better.  But  such  matters 
are  left  to  the  choice  of  the  camp  so  that  none  may  have 
room  to  murmer  at  the  twelve  hereafter. 

MONDAY,  12xH.  Morning  cloudy  and  cool.  We 
pursued  our  journey  at  7 :15.  At  one  and  a  quarter  miles 
rose  a  very  steep,  low  hill,  narrow  but  very  steep  on 
both  sides.  One-half  a  mile  farther  crossed  the  Bear 
River,  a  very  rapid  stream  about  six  rods  wide  and  two 
feet  deep,  bottom  full  of  large  cobble  stones,  water  clear, 
banks  lined  with  willows  and  a  little  timber,  good  grass, 
many  strawberry  vines  and  the  soil  looks  pretty  good. 
About  a  half  a  mile  beyond  the  ford,  proceeded  over 
another  ridge  and  again  descended  into  and  traveled  up  a 
beautiful  narrow  bottom  covered  with  grass  and  fertile 
but  no  timber.  Four  and  three-quarters  of  a  mile  beyond 
Bear  River,  passed  a  small  spring  of  good  clear  cold 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  291 

water.  At  11:50  halted  for  noon  in  the  same  narrow 
bottom  near  a  ridge  of  high,  rough  rocks  to  the  right, 
having  traveled  nine  and  three-quarters  miles.  There  is 
scarcely  any  wagon  track  to  be  seen,  only  a  few  wagons 
of  Hasting's  company  having  come  this  route ;  the  bal- 
ance went  the  other  road  and  many  of  them  perished 
in  the  snow;  it  being  late  in  the  season  and  much  time 
was  lost  quarreling  who  would  improve  the  roads,  etc. 
There  is  a  creek  of  clear  water  close  by,  deep  but  scarcely 
any  current.  President  Young  was  taken  very  sick  awhile 
before  we  halted.  After  resting  two  hours  the  camp 
moved  on  again,  except  President  Young  and  KimbaH'j 
wagons,  who  concluded  to  remain  there  today  on  account 
of  the  President's  sickness.  After  traveling  one  and  a 
half  miles  we  crossed  the  creek  at  the  foot  of  a  high 
mountain  and  a  little  farther  crossed  back  again.  A  mile 
farther,  began  to  ascend  a  long  steep  hill,  narrow  on  the 
summit  and  steep  descent.  We  then  wound  around  be- 
tween high  hills  till  arriving  again  on  a  narrow  rich  bot- 
tom. At  the  foot  of  the  hill  we  crossed  last,  there  is  a 
spring  of  very  good  cold  water,  and  in  fact,  there  are 
many  good  springs  all  along  the  road.  At  six  o'clock  we 
formed  our  encampment  near  a  very  small  creek  and 
a  good  spring,  having  traveled  this  afternoon  six  and 
three-quarters  miles  and  during  the  day  sixteen  and  a 
half.  There  is  an  abundance  of  grass  here  and  the  coun- 
try appears  to  grow  still  richer  as  we  proceed  west,  but 
very  mountainous.  There  are  many  antelope  on  these 
mountains  and  the  country  is  lovely  enough  but  destitute 
of  timber.  About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  west  from  the  camp 
is  a  cave  in  the  rock  about  thirty  feet  long,  fifteen  feet 


292  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

wide  and  from  four  to  six  feet  high.  There  are  many 
martins  at  the  entrance  and  on  observing  closely,  can  be 
seen  myriads  of  small  bugs.  It  is  supposed  from  ap- 
pearances that  there  is  some  property  cached  in  the  cave. 
Soon  after  we  camped,  we  had  a  light  shower  accom- 
panied by  thunder.  This  country  evidently  lacks  rain, 
even  the  grass  appears  parched. 

TUESDAY,  13xH.  Awhile  before  noon,  Elder  Kim- 
ball  and  Howard  Egan  arrived  from  the  company  back. 
A  meeting  was  called  but  suddenly  dispersed  by  a  thun- 
der ?hower.  After  the  rain  ceased,  'Elder  Kimball  pro- 
posed that  a  company  start  from  the  camp  with  Elder 
Pratt  to  proceed  to  the  Weber  River  canyon  and  ascer- 
tain if  we  can  pass  through  safely,  if  not,  to  try 
and  find  a  pass  over  the  mountains.  He  reported  that 
President  Young  is  a  little  better  this  morning,  but  last 
evening  was  insensible  and  raving.  Colonel  Rockwood 
is  also  very  sick  and  quite  deranged.  A  company  of 
twenty-two  wagons,  mostly  ox  teams,  started  on  soon  af- 
ter dinner,  in  company  with  Elder  Pratt,  and  soon  after, 
Elders  Kimball  and  Egan  returned  to  the  back  company. 
The  day  has  been  very  hot  and  sultry,  and  mosquitoes  are 
very  troublesome. 

WEDNESDAY,  14xn.  The  day  has  been  very  hot, 
with  occasionally  a  light  breeze.  Several  of  the  brethren 
have  been  out  hunting,  and  brought  in  several  antelope 
which  appear  to  abound  in  this  region.  Brothers  Wood- 
ruff and  Barnabas  Adams  went  back  to  the  other  wag- 
ons this  morning.  They  returned  at  night  and  reported 
that  President  Young  is  considerably  better,  but  Brother 
Rockwood  remains  very  sick.  There  are  one  or  two 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  293 

new  cases  of  sickness  in  our  camp,  mostly  with  fever 
which  is  very  severe  on  the  first  attack,  generally  render- 
ing its  victims  delirious  for  some  hours,  and  then  leaving 
them  in  a  languid,  weakly  condition.  It  appears  that  a 
good  dose  of  pills  or  medicine  is  good  to  break  the  fever. 
The  patient  then  needs  some  kind  of  stimulant  to  brace 
his  nerves  and  guard  him  against  another  attack.  I  am 
satisfied  that  diluted  spirits  is  good  in  this  disease  after 
breaking  up  the  fever.  At  night  had  a  light  shower.  The 
following  is  a  list  of  the  names  of  those  who  are  gone  on 
to  look  out  and  make  a  road,  etc.,  viz. :  Orson  Pratt,  com- 
mander of  company,  O.  P.  Rockwell,  Jackson  Redding, 
Stephen  Markham,  Nathaniel  Fairbanks,  Joseph  Egbert, 
John  S.  Freeman,  Marcus  B.  Thorpe,  Robert  Crow,  Ben- 
jamin B.  Crow,  John  Crow,  Walter  H.  Crow,  Walter 
Crow,  George  W.  Therlkill,  James  Chesney,  Jewis  B. 
Myers,  John  Brown,  Shadrack  Roundy,  Hans  C.  Hanson, 
Levi  Jackman,  Lyman  Curtis,  David  Powell,  Oscar 
Crosby,  Hark  Lay,  Joseph  Mathews,  Gilbert  Summe, 
Green  Flake,  John  S.  Gleason,  Charles  Burke,  Norman 
Taylor,  A.  P.  Chesley,  Seth  Taft,  Horace  Thornton, 
Stephen  Kelsey,  James  Stewart,  Robert  Thomas,  C.  D. 
Barnham,  John  S.  Eldridge,  Elijah  Newamn,  Francis 
Boggs,  Levi  N.  Kendall,  David  Grant.  First  division : 
seven  wagons,  fifteen  men ;  second  division :  sixteen 
wagons,  twenty-seven  men  besides  Crow's  family  of 
women  and  children.  Total,  twenty-three  wagons  and 
forty-two  men. 

THURSDAY,  ISiH.  Morning  pleasant  but  cloudy.  At 
twelve  o'clock  President  Young,  Kimball  and  all  the  rear 
wagons  arrived,  eight  in  number.  The  President  is  much 


294  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

better.  Brother  Rockwood  is  considerably  better.  Orders 
were  given  for  this  company  to  harness  up,  and  during 
the  time  till  we  started  onward  at  half-past  one  we  had 
a  very  refreshing  shower.  After  traveling  two  miles  we 
passed  another  spring  of  good  water  at  the  foot  of  a 
high  hill  a  little  to  the  right  of  the  road.  At  half-past 
three  we  formed  our  encampment  at  the  foot  of  some  high 
red  bluffs,  having  traveled  four  and  a  half  miles,  and 
enjoyed  two  more  pleasant  showers.  Feed  here  good  and 
a  beautiful  spring  of  good,  clear,  cold  water  a  little  to 
the  left  of  the  road.  The  evening  fine  and  pleasant. 

FRIDAY,  16xH.  This  morning  we  have  had  two  pleas- 
ant showers  accompanied  by  pretty  loud  thunder.  At 
8:45,  we  proceeded  onward,  passing  through  a  narrow 
ravine  between  very  high  mountains.  After  traveling  one 
and  a  quarter  miles  passed  a  deep  ravine,  where  most  of 
the  teams  had  to  double  to  get  up.  One-half  mile  farther, 
crossed  the  creek  and  found  the  crossing  place  very  bad. 
Harvey  Pierce  broke  his  wagon  reach  and  bolster.  The 
wagon  had  to  be  unloaded,  but  with  little  delay  was  soon 
repaired,  during  which  time  a  number  of  the  brethren 
fixed  a  new  place  to  cross  the  creek.  After  passing  this 
place,  following  the  course  of  the  creek,  the  mountains 
seem  to  increase  in  height,  and  come  so  near  together 
in  some  places  as  to  leave  merely  room  enough  for  a 
crooked  road.  At  half  past  twelve  we  halted  to  feed, 
having  traveled  six  and  three-quarters  miles  and  are  yet 
surrounded  by  high  mountains.  As  we  halted,  O.  P. 
Rockwell  came  up  from  Elder  Pratt's  company.  He 
reports  that  it  is  about  twenty-five  or  thirty  miles  to  the 
canyon.  They  have  found  the  road  leading  over  the 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  295 

mountains  to  avoid  the  canyon  and  expect  to  be  on  top 
today  at  noon.  The  day  is  pleasant  with  a  nice  breeze. 
Grass  plentiful  and  pretty  high,  but  no  timber  yet,  except 
small  cedar  on  the  sides  of  the  mountains.  Numerous 
springs  of  clear  water  all  along  the  base  of  the  moun- 
tains. During  the  halt  two  of  the  brethren  went  to  the 
top  of  the  mountain  on  the  north  of  the  camp.  They 
looked  like  babes  in  size.  At  1 :40,  we  proceeded  onward 
and  found  the  pass  between  the  mountains  growing  nar- 
rower, until  it  seemed  strange  that  a  road  could  ever 
have  been  made  through.  We  crossed  creek  a  number 
of  times,  and  in  several  places  found  the  crossing  diffi- 
cult. After  proceeding  a  few  miles,  we  saw  patches  of 
oak  shrubbery  though  small  in  size.  In  the  same  place 
and  for  several  miles  there  are  many  patches  or  groves 
of  the  wild  currant,  hop  vines,  alder  and  black  birch.  Wil- 
lows are  abundant  and  high.  The  currants  are  yet  green 
and  taste  most  like  a  gooseberry,  thick  rind  and  rather 
bitter.  The  hops  are  in  blossom  and  seem  likely  to  yield 
a  good  crop.  The  elder-berries,  which  are  not  very  plen- 
tiful, are  in  bloom.  In  some  places  we  had  to  pass  close 
to  the  foot  of  high,  perpendicular  red  mountains  of  rock 
supposed  to  be  from  six  hundred  to  a  thousand  feet  high. 
At  a  quarter  to  seven  we  formed  our  encampment,  hav- 
ing traveled  this  afternoon  nine  and  a  half  miles,  and 
during  the  day  sixteen  and  a  quarter.  We  are  yet  en- 
closed by  high  mountains  on  each  side,  and  this  is  the  first 
good  camping  place  we  have  seen  since  noon,  not  for 
lack  of  grass  or  water,  but  on  account  of  the  narrow  gap 
between  the  mountains.  Grass  is  pretty  plentiful  most  of 
the  distance  and  seems  to  grow  higher  the  farther  we  go 


296  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

west.  At  this  place  the  grass  is  about  six  feet  high,  and 
on  the  creek  eight  or  ten  feet  high.  There  is  one  kind  of 
grass  which  bears  a  head  almost  like  wheat  and  grows 
pretty  high,  some  of  it  six  feet.  There  is  a  very  singular 
echo  in  this  ravine,  the  rattling  of  wagons  resembles 
carpenters  hammering  at  boards  inside  the  highest  rocks. 
The  report  of  a  rifle  resembles  a  sharp  crack  of  thunder 
and  echoes  from  rock  to  rock  for  some  time.  The  lowing 
of  cattle  and  braying  of  mules  seem  to  be  answered  be- 
yond the  mountains.  Music,  especially  brass  instruments, 
have  a  very  pleasing  effect  and  resemble  a  person  stand- 
ing inside  the  rock  imitating  every  note.  The  echo,  the 
high  rocks  on  the  north,  high  mountains  on  the  south 
with  the  narrow  ravine  for  a  road,  form  a  scenery  at  once 
romantic  and  more  interesting  than  I  have  ever  witnessed. 
Soon  after  we  camped,  I  walked  up  the  highest  moun- 
tain on  the  south.  The  ascent  is  so  steep  that  there  is 
scarce  a  place  to  be  found  to  place  the  foot  flat  and  firm, 
and  the  visitor  is  every  moment,  if  he  makes  the  least  slip 
or  stumbles,  in  danger  of  being  precipitated  down  to  the 
bottom  and  once  overbalanced,  there  is  no  possibility  of 
stopping  himself  till  he  gets  to  the  bottom,  in  which  case 
he  would  doubtless  be  dashed  to  pieces.  After  resting 
about  half  a  dozen  times  I  arrived  at  the  top  and  found 
the  ascent  equally  steep  all  the  way  up.  In  many  places 
I  had  to  go  on  my  hands  and  feet  to  keep  from  falling 
backwards.  From  this  mountain  I  could  see  the  fork  of 
Weber  River  about  a  mile  west  of  the  camp  ;  looking  back 
I  could  see  the  road  we  had  come  for  several  miles,  but  in 
every  other  direction  nothing  but  ranges  of  mountains 
still  as  much  higher  than  the  one  I  was  on  as  it  is  above 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  297 

the  creek.  The  scenery  is  truly  wild  and  melancholy. 
After  surveying  the  face  of  the  country  a  little  while,  I 
began  to  descend  and  found  the  task  much  more  difficult 
than  ascending,  but  by  using  great  care  and  taking  time, 
I  got  down  without  accident  a  little  before  dark.  Solo- 
mon Chamberlain  broke  his  forward  axle  tree  about  two 
miles  back.  A  wagon  was  unloaded  and  sent  back  to 
fetch  him  up.  He  is  yet  very  sick. 

SATURDAY,  I?TH.  Arose  to  behold  a  fine  pleasant 
morning,  my  health  much  better.  This  is  my  thirty-third 
birthday.  My  mind  naturally  reverts  back  to  my  family 
and  my  heart  is  filled  with  blessings  on  their 
heads  more  than  my  tongue  is  able  to  express. 
The  richest  blessings  that  ever  were  bestowed  up- 
on the  head  of  woman  or  child  could  not  be 
more  than  I  desire  for  them,  whatever  be  my  lot.  Pres- 
ident Young  is  reported  as  having  had  a  very  sick  night. 
A  forge  was  set  up  and  some  repairs  done  to  wagons  and 
Brother  Chamberlain's  repaired  also.  The  cattle  and 
mules  seem  very  uneasy  and  continue  lowing  and  bray- 
ing all  the  morning.  I  suppose  it  is  in  consequence  of  the 
singular  echoes,  they  no  doubt  thinking  they  are  an- 
swered by  others  over  the  mountains.  At  9 :40  the  camp 
renewed  the  journey  and  one  mile  farther  arrived  at  the 
Red  fork  of  the  Weber  River.  We  also  seem  to  have  a 
wide  space  to  travel  through  and  now  turn  to  the  right  in 
a  western  course,  the  ravine  having  run  mostly  south- 
west. The  distance  we  have  traveled  through  this  nar- 
row pass  is  twenty-three  miles.  Yesterday  was  the  first 
day  we  have  been  out  of  sight  of  snow  a  whole  day  since 
we  arrived  at  Fort  John.  We  could  not  see  it  for  the 


298  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

high  mountains  although  surrounded  by  it.  On  arriving 
at  this  stream  we  see  it  again  on  the  mountains  to  the 
east.  This  stream  is  about  four  rods  wide,  very  clear 
water  and  apparently  about  three  feet  deep  on  an  aver- 
age. Its  banks  lined  with  cottonwood  and  birch  and 
also  dense  patches  of  brush  wood,  willows,  rose  bushes, 
briers,  etc.  By  stepping  to  the  top  of  a  small  mound  at 
the  bend  of  the  road,  the  mouth  of  the  canyon  can  be 
seen  very  plainly,  as  also  the  mountains  between  which 
we  pass  to  avoid  it.  The  canyon  appears  to  be  about 
eight  or  ten  miles  west  of  us.  I  should  judge  not  over 
that.  President  Young  being  so  very  sick  found  he  could 
not  endure  to  travel  farther.  Accordingly  Elder  Kim- 
ball  and  some  others  went  to  select  a  camping  ground 
and  soon  returning  reported  a  place  a  little  farther.  The 
camp  moved  on  and  formed  encampment  on  the  banks 
of  the  river  having  traveled  two  and  a  half  miles,  the 
day  very  hot  and  mosquitoes  plentiful.  Several  of  the 
brethren  have  caught  some  fine  trout  in  this  stream 
which  appears  to  have  many  in  it.  In  the  afternoon  El- 
ders Kimball,  Richards,  Smith,  Benson  and  others  went 
onto  a  mountain  to  clothe  and  pray  for  President  Young 
who  continues  very  sick.  On  returning  they  rolled  down 
many  large  rocks  from,  the  top  of  the  mountain  to  witness 
the  velocity  of  their  descent,  etc.  Some  would  roll  over 
half  a  mile  and  frequently  break  to  pieces.  John  Nixon 
found  and  brought  to  camp  a  very  singular  kind  of  thistle 
which  I  have  never  seen  before  nor  recollect  of  ever 
reading  of  the  like.  He  found  it  on  the  low  land  near 
the  camp  and  says  there  are  many  more  like  it.  It  is  a 
great  curiosity  and  worthy  of  description.  The  stem  is 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  299 

about  four  feet  long,  about  six  inches  wide  and  a  quar- 
ter of  an  inch  thick.  It  is  formed  of  a  double  leaf  or  case 
and  when  broken  is  hollow,  although  the  stem  lies  close 
together,  perfectly  flat.  It  is  ornamented  with  prickles 
from  bottom  to  top.  These  leaves  are  but  sparsely  scat- 
tered all  along  up  the  stem.  The  top  is  a  kind  of  crown 
and  bush  formed  by  the  same  kind  of  prickly  leaves  and 
is  about  ten  inches  long  by  five  inches  broad,  forming  a 
very  handsome  head  or  crown.  But  the  great  curiosity 
of  this  thistle  is  a  perfect  resemblance  of  a  snake  coiled 
around  the  crown  as  though  in  the  act  of  guarding  it 
against  foes.  The  head  of  the  snake  lies  on  the  top  of 
the  crown  at  one  end  and  is  ornamented  by  a  small  bunch 
of  flowers  like  common  thistle  flowers  on  the  snake's 
head.  At  the  extremity  of  the  tail  is  a  bunch  of  small 
burrs  covered  with  prickes  something  resembling  the 
rattles  on  a  rattlesnake's  tail.  The  body  of  the  snake  is 
formed  of  the  same  kind  of  substance  as  the  thistle  itself 
and  has  a  very  singular  appearance.  It  seems  that  two 
of  the  great  enemies  of  mankind  have  combined,  the  most 
bitter  and  destructive  guarding  the  more  innocent.  The 
serpent  tempted  the  woman  causing  her  to  sin,  in  conse- 
quence of  which  the  earth  was  cursed  and  decreed  to  pro- 
duce thorns  and  thistles,  etc.,  but  this  is  the  first  time  I 
ever  saw  the  snake  guard  the  thistle.  In  the  evening  El- 
ders Kimball,  G.  A.  Smith  and  Howard  Egan  rode  down 
the  river  to  visit  the  canyon.  They  returned  about  ten 
o'clock  and  said  they  had  been  eight  miles  down  the  river 
but  at  that  distance  did  not  arrive  at  the  canyon  and  being 
late  they  concluded  to  return  to  camp. 

SUNDAY,  18xH.     This  morning  the  camp  was  called 


300  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

together  and  addressed  by  Elder  Kimball.  He  reports 
President  Young  as  being  a  very  sick  man.  He  proposed 
to  the  brethren  that  instead  of  their  scattering  off,  some 
hunting,  some  fishing,  and  some  climbing  mountains, 
etc.,  that  they  should  meet  together  and  pray  and  exhort 
each  other  that  the  Lord  may  turn  away  sickness  from 
our  midst  and  from  our  President  that  we  may  proceed 
on  our  journey.  It  was  decided  to  assemble  at  ten  o'clock 
and  at  the  sound  of  the  bugle  the  brethren  met  in  a  small 
grove  of  shrubbery  which  they  have  made  for  the  purpose 
opposite  the  wagons.  During  the  meeting,  Elder  Kimball 
proposed  to  the  brethren  that  all  the  camp,  except  Presi- 
dent Young's  and  eight  or  ten  other  wagons  with  breth- 
ren enough  to  take  care  of  him,  etc..  proceed  on  tomor- 
row and  go  through,  find  a  good  place,  begin  to  plant  po- 
tatoes, etc.,  as  we  have  little  time  to  spare.  The  proposi- 
tion was  acceeded  to  by  unanimous  vote  and  after  a  num- 
ber had  expressed  their  feelings  the  meeting  adjourned 
till  two  o'clock  at  which  time  they  again  assembled  and 
listened  to  remarks  from  a  number  of  the  brethren.  El- 
der Kimball  again  gave  much  good  instruction  and  proph- 
ecied  of  good  things  concerning  the  camp.  The  bishops 
broke  bread  and  the  sacrament  was  administered.  Good 
feelings  seem  to  prevail  and  the  brethren  desire  to  do 
right.  A  number  yet  continue  sick,  but  we  expect  all 
will  soon  recover.  The  day  is  very  hot  with  very  little 
air  moving.  Elder  Kimball  consented  for  me  to  go  on 
tomorrow  with  the  company  that  goes  ahead. 

MONDAY,  19xH.  Morning  fine  and  warm,  President 
Young  considerably  better.  At  7:45  we  started  onward 
leaving  President  Young  and  Kimball's  wagons  and  sev- 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  301 

eral  others.  We  found  the  road  very  rough  on  account 
of  loose  rocks  and  cobble  stones.  After  traveling  two 
and  a  quarter  miles,  we  forded  the  river  and  found  it 
about  eighteen  inches  deep  but  proceeded  without  dif- 
ficulty. Soon  after  we  were  over,  Elder  Snow  came  up 
and  said  the  camp  were  requested  to  halt  awhile  till  Dr. 
Richards  came.  One  of  his  oxen  is  missing  and  he  wished 
to  go  on.  We  concluded  to  move  on  a  little  to  where  the 
road  should  turn  off  between  the  mountains  to  avoid  the 
canyon.  Elder  Pratt  went  three  miles  out  of  his  road 
and  had  to  return  again.  Three-quarters  of  a  mile  from 
the  ford  we  found  the  place  to  make  the  cutoff  and  there 
halted  awhile.  I  put  a  guide  board  up  at  this  place 
marked  as  follows:  "Pratt's  Pass  to  avoid  canyon.  To 
Fort  Bridger  74j4  miles."  Brother  Pack,  having  charge 
of  the  company,  concluded  to  move  on  slowly  and  be 
making  our  way  up  the  mountains.  We  accordingly 
started  and  after  traveling  a  mile  from  the  forks  began 
to  ascend  and  wind  around  the  mountains.  We  found 
the  road  exceedingly  rough  and  crooked  and  very  dan- 
gerous on  wagons.  Three  and  a  half  miles  from  the 
forks  of  the  road  the  brethren  made  a  bridge  over  a  small 
creek  over  which  we  crossed  having  passed  a  number  of 
springs  near  the  road.  Two  and  a  quarter  miles  farther 
we  arrived  on  the  summit  of  the  dividing  ridge  and  put 
a  guide  board  up,  "80  miles  to  Fort  Bridger."  At  this 
place  Elders  Kimball,  Woodruff,  G.  A.  Smith  and  H. 
Egan  rode  up  to  view  the  road,  etc.  The  descent  is  not 
very  steep  but  exceedingly  dangerous  to  wagons  being 
mostly  on  the  side  hill  over  large  cobble  stones,  causing 
the  wagons  to  slide  very  badly.  After  traveling  a  little 


302  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

way,  G.  A.  Smith's  wagon  wheels  gave  way  going  down 
a  steep  pitch.  The  spokes  are  loose  in  the  hub,  and 
worked  about  so  that  when  the  wagon  slides  they  dish 
inward,  etc.  At  two  o'clock,  we  halted  beside  a  small 
creek  to  water  teams,  having  traveled  ten  and  a  half 
miles  over  exceedingly  rough  road.  A  wagon  was  un- 
loaded' and  sent  for  G.  A.  Smith's  loading  which  is  re- 
ported to  be  two  miles  back.  While  they  were  gone, 
many  turned  out  their  teams  to  graze.  At  3  :30  the  men 
returned  with  the  wagons,  putting  the  loading  into  sev- 
eral so  as  to  proceed  and  at  3  :35  we  started  forward,  the 
road  turning  suddenly  to  the  right  for  about  three-quar- 
ters of  a  mile  and  then  a  southwest  course  again.  Here 
we  ascend  a  very  long  steep  hill  for  nearly  a  mile,  then 
descend  by  a  very  crooked  road.  I  think  a  better  road 
might  be  made  here  and  this  high  hill  avoided  and  save 
a  mile's  travel.  After  traveling  a  little  over  three  miles, 
we  crossed  a  creek  about  a  rod  wide  and  eighteen  inches 
deep,  pretty  steep  going  down  but  good  going  out.  \Ye 
went  on  a  little  farther  and  at  half  past  five  camped  on 
a  small  spot  surrounded  by  willow  bushes  full  of  mosqui- 
toes, having  traveled  this  afternoon  three  and  a  quarter 
miles  and  during  the  day  thirteen  and  three-quarters. 
The  day  has  been  hot  and  no  wind.  Teams  sweat  much 
and  it  has  been  a  pretty  hard  day's  travel.  There  is  not 
much  grass  here,  but  is  said  to  be  more  plentiful  a  little 
farther.  Several  accidents  have  happened  to  wagons  to- 
day but  nothing  serious  except  Brother  G.  A.  Smith's. 
Dr.  Richards'  wagons  arrived  in  camp  at  the  same  time 
the  rest  did.  The  sick  are  getting  better.  In  the  evening 
the  brethren  picked  up  a  lot  of  dry  willows  and  made  a 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  303 

coal  pit  to  set  G.  A.  Smith's  tire  before  \ve  can  leave  to- 
morrow.    The  evening  and  night  were  very  cold. 

TUESDAY,  20rH.  This  morning  fine  and  warm.  The 
coal  pit  is  burned  and  Burr  Frost  set  Elder  Smith's 
wagon  tire  and  did  various  other  repairs  to  a  number  of 
other  wagons  which  took  till  nearly  eleven  o'clock,  about 
which  time  the  camp  started  onward.  One  of  Brother 
Crow's  men  returned  from  Elder  Pratt's  company  and 
reported  that  their  camp  is  about  nine  miles  from  here. 
He  is  hunting  stray  cattle.  He  says  the  road  is  very 
rough  from  here  and  about  a  mile  beyond  where  they  are 
camped  the  road  begins  to  ascend  over  a  high  range  of 
mountains.  Elder  Pratt  has  been  to  the  top  but  cannot 
see  the  Salt  Lake  from  there.  Their  company  is  gone  on. 
I  walked  ahead  of  the  camp  nearly  four  miles  and  picked 
many  gooseberries  nearly  ripe.  They  are  very  plentiful 
on  this  bottom.  The  brethren  spent  much  time  cutting 
brush  wood  and  improving  the  road.  After  traveling 
four  miles,  halted  about  half  an  hour  to  water  teams 
and  eat  dinner.  The  road  over  which  we  have  traveled 
is  through  an  uneven  gap  between  high  mountains-  and 
is  exceedingly  rough  and  crooked.  Not  a  place  to  be  met 
with  scarcely  where  there  would  be  room  to  camp  for 
the  dense  willow  groves  all  along  the  bottom.  We  then 
proceeded  on  and  traveled  over  the  same  kind  of  rough 
road  till  a  little  after  5  :00  p.  m.  then  camped  on  a  ridge, 
having  traveled  today  seven  and  a  quarter  miles.  The 
last  three  miles  has  been  the  worst  road  of  the  two,  it 
being  through  willow  bushes  over  twenty  feet  high,  also 
rose  and  gooseberry  bushes  and  shaking  poplar  and 
birch  timber.  Although  there  has  been  a  road  cut 


304  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

through,  it  is  yet  scarcely  possible  to  travel  without  tear- 
ing the  wagon  covers.  We  have  crossed  this  creek  which 
Elder  Pratt  names  Canyon  Creek  eleven  times  during 
the  day  and  the  road  is  one  of  the  most  crooked  I  ever 
saw,  many  sharp  turns  in  it  and  the  willow  stubs  standing 
making  it  very  severe  on  wagons.  As  we  proceed  up, 
the  gap  between  the  mountains  seems  to  grow  still  nar- 
rower until  arriving  at  this  place  where  there  is  room  to 
camp,  but  little  grass  for  teams.  There  are  many  springs 
along  the  road  but  the  water  is  not  very  good.  In  one 
place  about  a  mile  back  there  is  a  very  bad  swamp  where 
the  brethren  spent  some  time  cutting  willows  and  laying 
them  in  to  improve  it.  We  have  got  along  today  without 
much  damage  which  is  somewhat  favorable  for  the  road 
is  awful.  At  this  place  the  ground  around  is  represented 
as  being  swampy  and  dangerous  for  cattle.  It  is  reported 
that  there  is  no  place  to  camp  beyond  this  till  where 
Elder  Pratt's  company  camped  and  this  is  so  small  they 
have  to  huddle  the  wagons  together.  The  soil  continues 
•sandy,  except  in  the  low  moist  places  where  it  looks 
black^nd  good.  There  is  some  pine  occasionally  in  sight 
on  the  mountains,  but  timber  here  is  scarce.  We  have 
passed  through  some  small  patches  today  where  a  few 
house  logs  might  be  cut,  but  this  is  truly  a  wild  looking 
place. 

WEDNESDAY,  21sx.  We  started  onward  at  half  past 
six,  the  morning  fine  and  pleasant.  We  crossed  the  creek 
once  more  and  about  a  half  a  mile  from  where  we 
camped,  the  road  turns  to  the  right  leaving  the  creek  and 
ascending  the  mountains  gradually.  Much  time  was  ne- 
cessarily spent  cutting  down  stumps,  heaving  out  rocks 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  305 

and  leveling  the  road.  It  is  an  exceedingly  rough  place. 
There  are  several  springs  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  and 
one  a  mile  from  the  top  which  runs  above  the  ground  a 
little  distance,  then  sinks  under  again.  The  last  half 
mile  of  the  ascent  is  very  steep  and  the  nearer  the  top 
the  steeper  it  grows.  There  is  considerable  timber  up  this 
gap  but  mostly  destroyed  by  fire.  We  saw  a  prairie 
pheasant  while  going  up  and  some  wild  gooseberries.  At 
eleven  o'clock,  the  teams  began  to  arrive  on  the  dividing 
ridge  and  in  less  than  an  hour,  all  were  safely  up.  From 
this  ridge  we  can  see  an  extensive  valley  to  the  west  but 
on  every  other  side  high  mountains,  many  of  them  white 
with  snow.  It  seems  as  though  a  few  hours'  travel  might 
bring  us  out  from  the  mountains  on  good  road  again. 
We  halted  on  the  ridge  a  little  while  and  then  prepared 
to  descend,  many  locking  both  hind  wheels,  a  precaution 
not  at  all  unnecessary.  We  found  the  road  down  exceed- 
ingly steep  and  rendered  dangerous  by  the  many  stumps 
of  trees  left  standing  in  the  road.  The  brethren  cut  up 
many  of  them  which  delayed  us  much.  About  a  mile  down 
is  a  bridge  formed  of  small  trees  laid  one  on  another  to 
fill  up  a  deep  ravine.  It  is  steep  on  both  sides  and  here 
Joseph  Rooker  turned  his  wagon  over,  however,  without 
much  damage.  A  mile  and  a  half  from  the  top  is  a 
spring  and  small  stream  of  very  good  cold  water  where 
we  halted  to  let  teams  drink.  This  would  make  a  tol- 
erably good  camp  ground  in  case  of  necessity.  After  this, 
the  road  is  not  so  steep  but  is  very  rough  and  winds  be- 
tween high  hills  or  mountains  through  willows  and  brush 
wood  and  over  soft  places,  crossing  the  creek  a  number 
of  times.  At  four  and  a  half  miles  from  the  top  of  the 

21 


306  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

ridge,  we  arrived  at  a  good  spring  of  cold  water,  plenty 
of  grass  and  a  good  place  to  camp.  Our  teams  have  now 
been  in  the  harness  about  ten  hours  without  eating  and 
the  feeling  of  many  was  to  stay  here,  but  some  wanted 
to  go  on  and  we  continued.  Turning  suddenly  to  the 
right  a  little  below  this  spring  we  began  to  ascend  an- 
other high  ridge  and  while  ascending  some  of  the  teams 
began  to  fail.  There  are  a  great  many  service  berries 
on  this  ridge  growing  on  what  we  supposed  to  be  wild 
apple  trees.  The  berries  are  good  and  rich  when  ripe. 
The  descent  from  this  ridge  is  not  nearly  so  steep  as 
the  other  one,  yet  many  locked  both  hind  wheels.  After 
descending,  we  found  another  small  creek  and  a  very 
rough  road  again.  At  7  :30,  we  formed  our  encampment 
near  the  creek,  having  traveled  fourteen  miles  in  thirteen 
hours.  There  is  but  little  grass  here  and  a  poor  chance 
for  cattle.  Orson  Pratt's  company  are  camped  a  half  a 
mile  ahead  of  us  and  our  camp  was  formed  by  Colonel 
Markham.  He  says  they  have  had  many  new  cases  of 
sickness  but  mostly  getting  better.  The  cannon  is  left 
back  on  the  other  side  of  the  mountains.  About  a  mile 
back  from  this  place  there  is  a  small  grove  of  sugar  maple 
and  considerable  other  timber  along  the  creek.  There 
are  also  beds  of  nice  green  rushes  in  several  places. 

THURSDAY,  22xn.  This  morning  is  cloudy  and  some 
like  for  rain.  We  started  on  at  8:30  and  soon  came  up 
with  Elder  Pratt's  company.  There  were  several  bad 
places  in  the  road  where  the  brethren  spent  considerable 
time  fixing  them.  As  we  near  the  mouth  of  the  canyon, 
there  is"  a  small  grove  of  elder  bushes  in  bloom  and  con- 
siderable oak  shrubberv.  We  named  this  a  canyon  be- 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  307 

cause  of  the  very  high  mountains  on  each  side  leaving  but 
a  few  rods  of  a  bottom  for  the  creek  to  pass  through  and 
hardly  room  for  a  road.  It  is  evident  that  the  emigrants 
who  passed  this  way  last  year  must  have  spent  a  great 
deal  of  time  cutting  a  road  through  the  thickly  set  tim- 
ber and  heavy  brush  wood.  It  is  reported  that  they  spent 
sixteen  days  in  making  a  road  through  from  Weber  River 
which  is  thirty-five  miles  but  as  the  men  did  not  work  a 
quarter  of  their  time  much  less  would  have  sufficed. 
However,  it  has  taken  us  over  three  days  after  the  road 
is  made  although  a  great  many  hours  have  been  spent  in 
improving  it.  In  this  thick  brush  wood  and  around  here 
there  are  many  very  large  rattlesnakes  lurking,  making  it 
necessary  to  use  caution  while  passing  through.  After 
traveling  one  and  three-quarters  miles,  we  found  the  road 
crossing  the  creek  again  to  the  north  side  and  then 
ascending  up  a  very  steep,  high  hill.  It  is  so  very  steep 
as  to  be  almost  impossible  for  heavy  wagons  to  ascend 
and  so  narrow  that  the  least  accident  might  precipitate  a 
wagon  down  a  bank  three  or  four  hundred  feet, — in 
which  case  it  would  certainly  be  dashed  to  pieces.  Colonel 
Markham  and  another  man  went  over  the  hill  and  re- 
turned up  the  canyon  to  see  if  a  road  cannot  be  cut 
through  and  avoid  this  hill.  While  passing  up,  a  bear 
started  near  them  but  soon  was  out  of  sight  amongst 
the  very  high  grass.  Brother  Markham  says  a  good  road 
can  soon  be  made  down  the  canyon  by  digging  a  little  and 
cutting  through  the  bushes  some  ten  or  fifteen  rods.  A 
number  of  men  went  to  work  immediately  to  make  the 
road  which  will  be  much  better  than  to  attempt  crossing 
the  hill  and  will  be  sooner  done. 


308  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

Agreeable  to  President  Young's  instructions,  Elder 
Pratt  acompanied  by  George  A.  Smith,  John  Brown,  Jo- 
seph Mathews,  John  Pack,  O.P.  Rockwell  and  J.  C.  Little 
started  on  this  morning  on  horses  to  seek  out  a  suitable 
place  to  plant  some  potatoes,  turnips,  etc.,  so  as  to  pre- 
serve the  seed  at  least.  While  the  brethren  were  cutting 
the  road,  I  followed  the  old  one  to  the  top  of  the  hill  and 
on  arriving  there  was  much  cheered  by  a  handsome  view 
of  the  Great  Salt  Lake  lying,  as  I  should  judge,  from 
twenty-five  to  thirty  miles  to  the  west  of  us ;  and  at 
eleven  o'clock  I  sat  down  to  contemplate  and  view  the 
surrounding  scenery.  There  is  an  extensive,  beautiful, 
/  level  looking  valley  from  here  to  the  lake  which  I  should 
judge  from  the  numerous  deep  green  patches  must  be 
fertile  and  rich.  The  valley  extends  to  the  south  prob- 
ably fifty  miles  where  it  is  again  surrounded  by  high 
mountains.  To  the  southwest  across  the  valley  at  about 
twenty  to  twenty-five  miles  distance  is  a  high  mountain, 
extending  from  the  south  end  of  the  valley  to  about  op- 
posite this  place  where  it  ceases  abruptly  leaving  a  pleas- 
ant view  of  the  dark  waters  of  the  lake.  Standing  on  the 
lake  and  about  due  west  there  are  two  mountains  and 
far  in  the  distance  another  one  which  I  suppose  is  on  the 
other  side  the  lake,  probably  from  sixty  to  eighty  miles 
distance.  To  the  northwest  is  another  mountain  at  the 
base  of  which  is  a  lone  ridge  of  what  I  should  consider 
to  be  rock  salt  from  its  white  and  shining  appearance. 
The  lake  does  not  show  at  this  distance  a  very  extensive 
surface,  but  its  dark  blue  shade  resembling  the  calm  sea 
looks  very  handsome.  The  intervening  valley  appears 
to  be  well  supplied  with  streams,  creeks  and  lakes,  some 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  309 

of  the  latter  are  evidently  salt.  There  is  but  little  timber 
in  sight  anywhere,  and  that  is  mostly  on  the  banks  of 
creeks  and  streams  of  water  which  is  about  the  only  ob- 
jection which  could  be  raised  in  my  estimation  to  this 
being  one  of  the  most  beautiful  valleys  and  pleasant 
places  for  a  home  for  the  Saints  which  could  be  found. 
Timber  is  evidently  lacking  but  we  have  not  expected  to 
find  a  timbered  country.  There  may  be  timber  on  the 
mountains  which  the  long  distance  would  render  impos- 
sible to  be  seen  with  the  naked  eye,  but  the  mountains 
through  which  we  have  passed  have  very  little  on  them. 
In  some  places  may  be  seen  a  grove  of  small  fir  or  cedar 
or  pine  and  in  the  valleys  some  cottonwood  and  other 
small  timber.  There  is  doubtless  timber  in  all  passes  and 
ravines  where  streams  descend  from  the  mountains.There 
is  no  prospect  for  building  log  houses  without  spending 
a  vast  amount  of  time  and  labor,  but  we  can  make 
Spanish  brick  and  dry  them  in  the  sun ;  or  we  can  build 
lodges  as  the  Pawnee  Indians  do  in  their  villages.  For 
my  own  part  I  am  happily  disappointed  in  the  appear- 
ance of  the  valley  of  the  Salt  Lake,  but  if  the  land  be  as 
rich  as  it  has  the  appearance  of  being,  I  have  no  fears 
but  the  Saints  can  live  here  and  do  well  while  we  will 
do  right.  When  I  commune  with  my  own  heart  and  ask 
myself  whether  I  would  choose  to  dwell  here  in  this  wild 
looking  country  amongst  the  Saints  surrounded  by 
friends,  though  poor,  enjoying  the  privileges  and  bless- 
ings of  the  everlasting  priesthood,  with  God  for  our 
King  and  Father ;  or  dwell  amongst  the  gentiles  with  all 
their  wealth  and  good  things  of  the  earth,  to  be  eternally 
mobbed,  harassed,  hunted,  our  best  men  murdered  and 


310  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

every  good  man's  life  continually  in  danger,  the  soft 
whisper  echoes  loud  and  reverberates  back  in  tones  of 
stern  determination ;  give  me  the  quiet  wilderness  and 
my  family  to  associate  with,  surrounded  by  the  Saints 
and  adieu  to  the  gentile  world  till  God  says  return  and 
avenge  you  of  your  enemies.  If  I  had  my  family  with 
me,  how  happy  could  I  be,  for  I  dread  nothing  so  much 
as  the  journey  back  again  and  when  I  think  o£  the  many 
dangers  from  accident  which  families  traveling  this  roac1 
are  continually  liable  to  and  especially  this  last  mountain 
road  from  Weber  River,  it  makes  me  almost  shudder  to 
think  of  it  and  I  could  almost  envy  those  who  have  got 
safely  through,  having  their  families  with  them,  yet  they 
will  doubtless  have  a  hard  time  of  it  the  coming  winter. 
Brother  Crow's  family  especially  have  very  little  bread 
stuff  with  them,  they  say  enough  to  last  them  two  months 
and  they  are  dependent  on  the  success  of  their  hunter 
for  support  through  the  winter.  This  valley  appears  to 
be  fortified  by  mountains,  except  on  the  banks  of  the 
lake,  on  many  of  which  there  is  still  snow  lying  in  large 
quantities.  It  is  certain  that  good  limestone  abounds  in 
these  ridges  and  it  is  supposed  coal  can  be  found  with 
little  labor.  From  this  hill  I  passed  down  the  creek 
which  we  named  the  Last  Creek  about  a  mile  and  there 
saw  a  bed  of  bull  rushes  of  the  largest  kind  I  ever  saw, 
some  of  them  being  fifteen  feet  high  and  an  inch  and 
a  half  in  diameter  at  the  bottom.  The  grass  on  this  creek 
grows  from  six  to  twelve  feet  high  and  appears  very 
rank.  There  are  some  ducks  around  and  sand  hill  cranes. 
Many  signs  of  deer,  antelope,  and  bears,  but  not  many 
have  been  seen  here.  There  have  been  fresh  buffalo 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  311 

signs  seen  a  few  days'  travel  back,  but  those  animals 
evidently  do  not  stay  in  this  region  unless  some  come  to 
winter.  The  ground  seems  literally  alive  with  the  very 
large  black  crickets  crawling  around  up  grass  and  bushes. 
They  look  loathsome  but  are  said  to  be  excellent  for  fat- 
tening hogs  which  would  feed  on  them  voraciously.  The 
bears  evidently  live  mostly  on  them  at  this  season  of  the 
year.  After  spending  about  four  hours'  labor  the  breth- 
ren succeeded  in  cutting  a  pretty  good  road  along  the 
creek  and  the  wagons  proceeded  on,  taking  near  a  south- 
west course.  We  found  the  last  descent  even  but  very 
rapid  all  the  way.  At  half  past  five,  we  formed  our 
encampment  on  a  creek  supposed  to  be  Brown's  Creek, 
having  traveled  seven  and  a  quarter  miles  today.  We 
are  now  five  and  a  quarter  miles  from  the  mouth  of  this 
canyon  making  the  whole  distance  of  rough  mountain 
road  from  the  Weber  River  to  the  mouth  of  the  canyon 
on  this  side  a  little  less  than  thirty-five  miles  and  de- 
cidedly the  worst  piece  of  road  on  the  whole  journey. 
At  this  place,  the  land  is  black  and  looks  rich,  sandy 
enough  to  make  it  good  to  work.  The  grass  grows  high 
and  thick  on  the  ground  and  is  well  mixed  with  nice 
green  rushes.  Feed  here  for  our  teams  is  very  plentiful 
and  good  and  the  water  js  also  good.  There  are  many 
rattlesnakes  of  a  large  size  in  this  valley  and  it  is  sup- 
posed they  have  dens  in  the  mountains.  The  land  looks 
dry  and  lacks  rain,  but  the  numerous  creeks  and  springs 
must  necessarily  tend  to  moisten  it  much.  The  grass 
'ooks  rich  and  good.  A  while  after  we  camped,  Elder 
Pratt  and  company  returned  and  reported  that  they  had 
been  about  fifteen  miles  north  from  here  and  this  re- 


312  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

gion  is  as  suitable  a  place  to  put  in  our  seeds  as  they 
have  seen.     Approaching  nearer  the  lake,  the  land  is 
mostly  sunken  and  many  small  lakes  in  it.     A  few  miles 
north  of  this,  is  a  good  spot  to  break  up  and  plant  po- 
tatoes, sow  our  seeds,  etc.     There  is  a  little  timber  on 
the  creek.   From  twelve  to  fifteen  miles  north  at  the  foot 
of  the  mountain  they  saw  many  hot  sulphur  springs  is- 
suing from  the  rocks,  as  many  as  fifty  in  number.    One 
of  them,  the  largest,  falls  out  of  the  rocks  and'  then  forms 
a  pool  apparently  ten  feet  deep  and  a  rock  is  in  the  cen- 
ter.   The  water  of  this  is  so  hot  a  person  cannot  bear  his 
hand  in  it  but  a  very  few  seconds.     It  is  strong  of  salt 
and  sulphur  and  the  bottom  appears  green  as  though  it 
was  covered  with  verdigris.     A  council  was  held  at  the 
Doctor's  wagon  and  it  was  decided  to  move  early  to- 
morrow to  the  place  designated ;  also,  to  send  two  men 
back  to  the  President  and  company  to  report  our  prog- 
ress, etc.,  then  to  commence  forthwith  and  plow  and  plant 
about  ten  acres  with  potatoes  this  week  if  possible  and 
thus  continue  till  the  seed  is  secured.     John  Pack  and 
Joseph   Mathews   were  selected  to  return  to  President 
Young's  company.     The  evening  was  fine  and  pleasant 
and  the  night  feels  much  warmer  than  in  the  ravines  of 
the  mountains. 

FRIDAY,  23RD.  This  morning  Elders  Pack  and 
Mathews  started  to  meet  the  President  and  at  the  same 
time  the  camp  moved  on  to  the  final  location.  We  trav- 
eled two  miles  and  then  formed  our  encampment  on  the 
banks  of  the  creek  in  an  oblong  circle.  The  grass  here 
appears  even  richer  and  thicker  on  the  ground  than 
where  we  left  this  morning.  The  soil  looks  indeed  rich, 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  313 

black  and  a  little  sandy.  The  grass  is  about  four  feet 
high  and  very  thick  on  the  ground  and  well  mixed  with 
rushes.  If  we  stay  here  three  weeks  and  our  teams  have 
any  rest  they  will  be  in  good  order  to  return.  As  soon 
as  the  camp  was  formed  a  meeting  was  called  and  the 
brethren  addressed  by  Elder  Richards,  mostly  on  the 
necessity  and  propriety  of  working  faithfully  and  dili- 
gently to  get  potatoes,  turnips,  etc.,  in  the  ground.  El- 
der Pratt  reported  their  mission  yesterday  and  after 
some  remarks  the  meeting  was  dismissed.  At  the  open- 
ing, the  brethren  united  in  prayer  and  asked  the  Lord 
to  send  rain  on  the  land,  etc.  The  brethren  immedi- 
ately rigged  three  plows  and  went  to  plowing  a  little 
northeast  of  the  camp;  another  party  went  with  spades, 
etc.,  to  make  a  dam  on  one  of  the  creeks  so  as  to  throw 
the  water  at  pleasure  on  the  field,  designing  to  irrigate 
the  land  in  case  rain  should  not  come  sufficiently.  This 
land  is  beautifully  situated  for  irrigation,  many  nice 
streams  descending  from  the  mountains  which  can  be 
turned  in  every  direction  so  as  to  water  any  portion  of 
the  lands  at  pleasure.  During  the  afternoon,  heavy 
clouds  began  to  collect  in  the  southwest  and  at  five 
o'clock  we  had  a  light  shower  with  thunder.  We  had 
rains  for  about  two  hours.  The  brethren  have  plowed 
up  considerable  land  and  broken  several  of  their  plows, 
but  there  have  been  three  plows  going  nearly  all  day. 
At  night,  the  camp  was  called  together  and  addressed 
by  Elder  Richards  on  a  subject  which  seemed  little  wel- 
come to  many  from  the  way  it  was  handled.  It  was  a 
sermon  of from  end  to  end.  Some  felt  a  little  in- 
sulted but  it  all  passed  off  well  and  jokingly. 


314  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

SATURDAY,  24xH.  The  plowing  is  renewed  and  many 
are  gone  to  planting  potatoes.  There  is  one  drag  going. 
Others  are  still  at  work  on  the  dams.  John  Pack  and 
Joseph  M^athews  returned  at  dark  last  night  and  re- 
ported the  President  and  company  a  few  miles  up  Last 
Creek.  They  have  gone  back  this  morning  to  fix  two 
bridges  at  the  mouth  of  the  canyon.  The  day  is  fine  and 
hot  with  a  nice  breeze.  At  a  quarter  to  twelve,  Presi- 
dent Young  and  Kimball  arrived  and  the  wagons  also 
began  to  arrive  at  the  same  time.  The  President  seems 
much  better  and  the  sick  generally  are  getting  better. 
Most  of  the  brethren  express  themselves  well) pleased  with 
the  place,  but  some  complain  because  there  is  no  timber. 
There  appears  to  be  a  unanimous  agreement  in  regard  to 
the  richness  of  the  soil  and  there  are  good  prospects  of 
sustaining  and  fattening  stock  with  little  trouble.  The 
only  objection  is  a  lack  of  timber  and  rain.  The  latter 
God  will  send  in  its  season  if  the  Saints  are  faithful 
and  I  think  yesterday  was  a  proof  that  He  listens  to  and 
answers  the  prayers  of  the  Saints.  We  can  easily  irri- 
gate the  land  at  all  events  which  will  be  an  unfailing  and 
certain  source  of  water,  for  the  springs  are  numerous 
and  the  water  appears  good.  About  5  :00  p.  m.  we  were 
favored  with  another  nice  shower  accompanied  by  thun- 
der and  some  wind.  It  continued  raining  till  nearly 
dark;  the  balance  of  the  evening  fine.  Elder  Kimball 
says  that  it  is  contemplated  to  send  out  an  exploring 
party  to  start  on  Monday  and  proceed  north  to  the 
Bear  River  and  Cache  valleys.  They  design  taking 
several  wagons  with  then  and  Presidents  Young  and 
Kimball  accompany  the  expedition.  Another  company 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  315 

is  to  start  at  the  same  time  and  go  west  to  the  lake,  then 
south  to  the  Utah  lake  and  return  down  this  valley. 

SUNDAY,  25iH.  Morning  fine  and  pleasant.  At  ten 
o'clock  a  meeting  was  held  in  the  camp  and  the  brethren 
addressed  successively  by  Elders  G.  A.  Smith,  H.  C. 
Kimball  and  E.  T.  Benson  these  mostly  expressing  their 
feeling  of  gratification  for  the  prospects  of  this  country, 
each  being  highly  satisfied  with  the  soil,  etc.  Elder  Kim- 
ball  referred  especially  to  the  manifold  blessings  we  have 
been  favored  with  during  the  journey.  Not  a  man, 
woman,  or  child  has  died  on  the  journey,  not  even  a 
horse,  mule,  ox,  cow  or  chicken  has  died  during  the 
whole  journey.  Many  exhortations  were  given  to  the 
brethren  to  be  faithful,  obey  the  council  of  those  in  au- 
thority and  we  shall  be  blessed  and  prosperous.  At  1 :00 
p.  m.  by  request  of  Elder  Kimball,  the  following  per- 
sons viz. :  Howard  Egan,  Hans  C.  Hanson,  Jackson 
Redding,  Carlos  Murray,  Thomas  Cloward,  George  Bill- 
ings, Philo  Johnson,  Charles  Harper,  Edson  Whipple, 
Wm.  A.  King,  Hosea  Cusing,  Robert  Byard,  Orson  K. 
Whitney  and  Horace  Whitney,  assembled  themselves 
in  a  willow  grove  adjacent  to  the  camp  where  Elder 
Kimball  addressed  them  in  substance  as  follows: 

*"Most  of  you  here  present  have  become  adopted 
into  my  family,  except  a  very  few — calling  them  by 
name — and  Horace,  who  hase  become  connected  with  my 
family  by  marriage,  but  I  do  not  care  for  that,  you  are 
all  the  same  to  me,  and  your  interest  is  my  interest  for 
what's  mine  is  yours  and  what's  yours  is  your  own.  If 
I  have  the  privilege  of  building  a  house,  I  want  you  to 


•The  whole  reported  by  Horace  Whitney. 


316  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

help  me  and  I  will  help  you.  Horace  will  want  to  build 
a  house  for  some  of  his  father's  family  if  they  should 
come  up  and  there  is  plenty  of  timber  in  the  hills.  When 
my  family  comes  up,  we  may  conclude  to  settle  some- 
where else.  If  so,  there  will  be  plenty  to  buy  us  out  if 
we  shall  have  made  any  improvements.  I  want  you 
all  to  be  prudent  and  take  care  of-  your  horses,  cattle 
and  everything  entrusted  to  your  care.  It  would  be  a 
good  plan  and  probably  will  be  done  for  those  who  stay 
here,  to  go  back  on  the  Sweet  Water  and  kill  buffalo, 
etc.,  for  winter  consumption.  We  shall  go  tomorrow 
if  Brigham  is  well  enough,  in  search  of  a  better  loca- 
tion— if  indeed,  such  can  be  found — if  not,  we  shall  re- 
main here.  There  should  be  an  enclosure  made  for  the 
purpose  of  keeping  the  horses  and  cattle  in  nights  for 
there  are  plenty  of  Indians  in  the  vicinity.  I  should  ad- 
vise you  to  keep  the  Sabbath  day  holy  whether  others  do 
or  not.  I  want  you  to  put  all  the  seed  into  the  ground 
that  you  think  will  come  to  maturity.  I  am  satisfied 
that  buckwheat  will  do  as  well  here  as  any  other  seed 
we  can  grow.  I  want  also  some  peach  stones  and  ap- 
ple seeds  to  be  planted  forthwith.  Brother  Byard  and 
Hans  I  would  like  to  have  immediately  engage  in 
making  garments  of  buck  skins,  Brother  Cloward  in 
making  shoes  and  Brother  Johnson  in  making  hats  as 
soon  as  practicable.  If  you  wish  to  go  hunting,  fishing, 
or  to  see  the  country,  select  a  week  day  and  not  the  Lord's 
day  for  that  purpose.  Do  not  let  us  get  giddy  and  light 
minded  as  the  Nephites  did  of  old,  but  strive  to  work 
righteousness  in  the  beginning,  inasmuch  as  we  have 
reached  the  promised  land.  If  it  is  advisable  to  work 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  317 

in  a  family  capacity,  we  will  do  so ;  and  if  in  a  church 
capacity,  we  should  be  equally  willing  to  do  that.  I  am 
going  out  on  a  scout  with  the  brethren  and  I  shall  prob- 
ably want  one  or  two  of  you  to  go  with  me  and  also  one 
or  two  wagons.  I  am  not  going  to  take  anything  back  with 
me  to  Winter  Quarters  except  what  is  actually  neces- 
sary,— even  some  of  my  clothes  I  shall  leave  behind.  I 
shall  leave  Bishop  Whipple  with  you.  He  is  quite  a  steady 
and  economical  man,  and  as  such  I  recommend  him  to 
you.  I  want  every  man  to  be  as  industrious  as  possible 
while  I  am  gone  and  get  into  the  ground  all  the  tur- 
nips, cabbage  and  other  seeds  you  can.  In  case  a  storm 
of  snow  should  come  on,  it  would  be  advisable  to  drive 
all  the  cattle  among  the  willows  where  they  can  remain 
until  the  snow  goes  off.  I  want  you  all  to  work  together 
until  such  time  as  every  man  can  have  his  inheritance 
set  off  to  him.  I  feel  towards  you  as  a  father  towards 
his  children  and  I  want  you  to  banish  all  peevishness 
from  your  midst  and  accommodate  yourselves  as  much 
as  possible  to  each  other's  wishes.  I  have  it  to  say  that 
my  boys  have  been  faithful  to  their  various  duties  on  this 
journey  and  other  people  have  noticed  it  and  expressed 
the  opinion  that  they  never  saw  such  an  attentive  set  of 
men  in  their  lives,  and  I  consider  that  their  conduct  is 
worthy  of  imitation.  I  want  you  to  be  sober  and  pray- 
erful and  remember  me  and  my  family  in  your  prayers." 
A  number  of  other  good  ideas  were  advanced  by  Brother 
Heber  and  then  we  closed  the  meeting  by  prayer. 

At  2:00  p.  m.  the  brethren  again  assembled  within 
the  camp  and  were  successively  addressed  by  Elders 
Woodruff,  Orson  Pratt  and  W.  Richards  sustaining  the 


318  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

ideas  advanced  by  the  other  brethren  this  morning.  Some 
remarks  followed  from  Lorenzo  Young,  John  Pack  and 
others  and  the  meeting  was  dismissed.  It  is  contem- 
plated to  send  some  wagons  back  to  lighten  the  loads 
and  assist  the  next  company  over  these  rough  roads. 
It  is  now  certain  that  there  is  considerable  timber  in  the 
ravines  and  valleys  between  the  mountains,  several  large 
bodies  having  been  seen  by  the  brethren  since  our  ar- 
rival. There  is  a  mountain  lying  northeast  from  here  on 
which  is  considerably  large  timber.  It  is  supposed  to 
be  about  ten  miles  distance.  The  northern  expedition 
is  given  up  for  the  present  on  account  of  President 
Young's  health.  A  company  intend  to  go  tomorrow  to 
the  lake  and  survey  that  region.  If  they  go,  they  will 
probably  be  gone  a  day  or  two. 

MONDAY,  26xH.  Morning  cloudy  and  pleasant. 
The  brethren  commenced  plowing  early,  others  are  gone 
to  planting,  etc.,  and  the  brethren  appear  to  feel  well. 
Some  of  the  sick  have  been  to  bathe  in  one  of  the  hot 
springs  and  pronounce  the  effects  wonderfully  bene- 
ficial. Others  are  going  this  morning  to  try  the  same 
experiment.  Another  company  are  gone  to  make  a  road 
to  the  timber  through  a  ravine  a  little  north  of  this. 
About  ten  o'clock,  President  Young  sent  me  a  horse  with 
instructions  to  join  him  and  some  others  going  on  a 
short  exploring  expedition.  I  immediately  started  and 
found  the  company  consisted  of  President  Young,  Elders 
Kimball,  Woodruff,  G.  A.  Smith,  Benson,  Richards  and 
Carrington.  We  took  a  course  northward  passing  by 
the  land  where  the  brethren  are  plowing  and  planting. 
The  land  indeed  looks  rich  and  light.  About  three- 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  319 

quarters  of  a  mile  north  of  the  camp,  we  arrived  on  a 
beautiful  table  land,  level  and  nicely  sloping  to  the  west. 
Here  \ve  halted  to  view  it  and  the  more  we  viewed,  the 
better  we  were  satisfied  that  it  is  as  handsome  a  place  for 
a  city  as  can  be  imagined.  At  the  east  part  there  is 
a  considerable  creek  of  clear  cold  water  descending  from 
the  mountains  and  just  above  this  place  it  branches  into 
two  forks,  one  running  northwest  the  other  southwest 
and  the  two  nicely  surrounding  this  place,  and  so  well 
arranged  that  should  a  city  be  built  here  the  water  can 
be  turned  into  every  street  at  pleasure.  We  passed  or 
and  began  to  ascend  the  mountains,  the  President  sig- 
nifying a  wish  to  ascend  a  high  peak  to  the  north  of  us. 
After  some  hard  toil  and  time  we  succeeded  in  gaining 
the  summit,  leaving  our  horses  about  two-thirds  the 
way  up.  President  Young  felt  pretty  well  fatigued  when 
he  got  up.  Some  of  the  brethren  feel  like  naming  this 
Ensign  Peak.  From  this  place,  we  had  a  good  view  of 
the  Salt  Lake  and  could  see  that  the  waters  extend  for 
a  great  many  miles  to  the  north  of  us.  There  appears 
to  be  land,  although  white  with  salt,  all  the  way  to  the 
mountain  on  the  northwest  which  we  had  previously  sup- 
posed was  surrounded  by  water.  We  can  see  a  pretty 
large  stream  winding  from  the  south  to  the  north 
through  the  valley  but  keeping  not  many  miles  distant 
from  these  mountains  towards  the  lake.  After  satisfy- 
ing ourselves  we  began  to  descend,  President  Young  and 
Lorenzo,  who  joined  us  a  while  before  we  went  up, 
going  down  on  the  east  side  where  they  were  joined  by 
Elders  Woodruff,  Benson,  and  Richards  with  the  horses. 
Elders  Kimball.  Smith,  Carrington  and  myself  descended 


320  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

on  the  northwest  corner  and  found  the  descent  very 
lengthy  and  difficult.  These  hills  are  mostly  rocky  of  a 
kind  of  soft  stone  in  some  places,  in  others  a  harder  kind 
of  flint  stone.  On  arriving  on  the  level  again,  we  wound 
our  way  southward  to  meet  the  other  brethren  and  after 
passing  a  little  way  saw  one  of  the  sulphur  springs 
where  a  pretty  large  stream  of  sulphur  water  boils  out 
of  the  rock  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  and  thence 
branches  out  into  several  smaller  streams  for  some  dis- 
tance till  these  enter  a  small  lake.  This  water  is  about 
as  warm  as  dish  water  and  very  salty.  There  is  much 
filthy  kind  of  substance  collected  on  it  and'  the  smell  aris- 
ing from  it  is  truly  nauseating  and  sickly,  though  gen- 
erally supposed  to  be  in  no  way  unhealthy.  Elder  Kim- 
ball  left  us  here  on  seeing  Elder  Woodruff's  .carriage 
and  the  other  brethren  returning  back  towards  the  camp. 
In  the  meantime,  Elders  Smith,  Carrington  and  myself 
went  lower  down  towards  the  lake  in  search  of  some 
fresh  water  to  quench  our  thirst.  We  found  a  nice  clear 
stream  of  cold  water  but  a  little  way  from  the  sulphur 
spring  and  having  drunk  of  it,  we  concluded  to  go  on 
and  see  the  river  which  we  had  noticed  from  the  moun- 
tain. We  took  nearly  a  west  course  and  soon  struck  the 
old  road  made  by  emigrants  last  year.  We  found  the 
land  exceedingly  rich  all  along,  good  grass  and  abund- 
ance of  rushes.  We  found  many  wet  places  but  no 
signs  of  swamps,  nor  danger  of  miring.  After  traveling 
about  two  miles,  we  arrived  at  the  river  having  followed 
the  road  to  the  ford.  This  river  is  about  five  rods  wide 
on  an  average,  three  and  a  half  feet  deep  at  the  ford  but 
in  other  places  much  deeper.  The  current  is  slow  and  the 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  321 

water  of  a  dark  lead  color.  The  hanks  are  about  five 
feet  high  and  the  soil  to  the  water  level  of  a  rich,  black 
alluvial.  There  is  no  timber  on  the  banks  here  and  not 
man\'  willow  bushes.  \Ye  went  over  the  river  and 
found  the  soil  equally  good  on  the  other  side.  While 
here  we  observed  Elder  Woodruff's  carriage  and  the 
brethren  again  proceeding  northward.  \Ye  -:arted  back- 
to  meet  them,  it  being  the  intention  to  go  to  the  large, 
hot  sulphur  spring.  YYe  could  but  remark  all  along,  the 
richness  of  the  soil  and  the  abundance  of  high,  good 
looking  grass.  On  arriving  at  the  foot  of  the  moun- 
tain beside  another  sulphur  spring,  we  saw  the  carriage 
come  on  to  the  first  spring  but  apparently  judging  it  un- 
safe to  cross,  they  wheeled  around  and  returned  back  to 
camp.  Elders  Smith.  Carrington  and  myself  then  con- 
cluded to  go  on  and  view  the  big  spring  which  we 
found  to  be  about  two  miles  farther.  Before  arriving 
at  it,  there  is  a  large  shoal  salt  lake  and  on  the  banks  arc- 
numerous  sulphur  springs  van-ing  in  the  appearance  of 
the  surface  and  losing  themselves  in  the  lake.  There 
were  many  plovers  on  and  around  this  lake.  Wre  arrived 
at  .the  big  spring  about  four  o'clock  and  making  our 
horses  fast,  we  went  down  to  where  it  boils  out  of  the 
rock.  This  spring  is  also  situated  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountains  and  at  the  base  of  a  large  rock,  perpendicular 
on  the  west  side  and  gradually  losing  itself  on  the  east 
in  the  mountain.  The  spring,  as  I  have  said,  is  at  the 
base  of  this  rock.  There  is  a  circular  hole  about  four 
'feet  wide  and  a  yard  high  from  the  top  to  the  surface 
of  the  water  from  whence  the  water  boils  out  in  a  con- 
siderable stream.  The  water  itself  in  the  spring  seems 

2-2 


322  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

to  be  about  two  feet  deep.  There  is  a  rock  at  the  mouth 
of  the  spring  where  a  person  can  stand  and  see  inside. 
Standing  on  this  rock  with  your  face  near  the  mouth  of 
the  spring  a  strong  warm  sulphurous  air  is  felt  to  come 
in  gusts  out  of  the  rock  and  it  is  so  hot  that  it  requires 
only  a  few  minutes  to  start  the  perspiration.  On  putting 
my  hand  in  the  spring,  1  was  startled  with  the  heat  and 
found  I  could  not  bear  to  hold  my  hand  in  five  seconds. 
It  is  as  hot  as  ithe  hottest  dish  water  ever  used  for 
dishes.  Immediately  on  emerging  from  the  rock,  the 
water  forms  a  lake  about  three  rods  in  diameter  and 
evidently  pretty  deep.  The  water  is  exceedingly  clear 
and  nice  to  look  at  but  very  salty  indeed.  We  could  see 
the  water  boil  up  in  many  parts  of  the  lake.  The  water 
escapes  at  the  north  side  of  the  lake  at  the  base  of  the 
rock  and  there  forms  a  stream  about  four  feet  wide  and 
eighteen  inches  deep.  We  concluded  we  would  go  down 
the  stream  six  or  eight  rods  to  wash  our  feet,  naturally 
expecting  the  water  to  be  cooler,  but  on  taking  off  our 
boots  and  socks  we  found  it  impossible  to  hold  our  feet 
in  it  a  moment  and  could  barely  wash  by  dashing  the 
water  on  with  our  hands  and  suddenly  dipping  them  in 
and  out.  It  is  supposed  this  would  boil  an  egg  in  about 
ten  minutes.  At  five  o'clock  we  returned  back  to  camp 
and  supposed  that  the  spring  is  about  four  miles  dis- 
tance. We  arrived  in  camp  at  six  o'clock.  The  breth- 
ren have  planted  about  three  acres  of  potatoes,  some 
peas,  beans,  and  are  now  planting  four  or  five  acres  of 
corn.  Elder  Kimball  stated  that  on  returning  with  the. 
carriage  to  the  creek  near  the  camp  to  get  some  water, 
lie  discovered  that  he  had  lost  his  spy  glass.  He  re- 


WILLIAM   CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  323 

traced  his  steps  on  foot  to  the  top  of  the  peak  and  back 
without  finding  it,  and  on  arriving  at  the  bottom  he  saw 
Elders  Richards  and  Benson  bathing  in  one  of  the 
warm  sulphur  springs.  Although  wet  with  perspiration 
he  took  off  hi.s  clothes  and  plunged  in  and  found  the 
effects  very  pleasant  and  beneficial.  After  bathing 
they  started  back  for  camp  and  but  a  few  rods  dis- 
tance found  the  glass  near  the  road.  Some  of  the  breth- 
ren have  commenced  making  a  garden  about  two  miles 
to  the  southeast  and  indeed  their  operations  and  in- 
dustry are  truly  pleasing  and  noble.  The  more  I  view 
the  country,  the  better  I  am  satisfied  that  the  Saints 
can  live  here  and  raise  abundant  crops.  Elder  Kimbail 
has  kindly  offered  me  a  horse  to  ride  and  view  the  coun- 
try as  much  and  when  I  have  a  mind  to  while  we  stay 
here.  This  morning  Joseph  Mathews  and  John  l>rown 
started  west  to  go  to  the  mountain.  They  returned  this 
evening  and  report  that  they  have  been  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountain  and  judge  it  to  be  about  sixteen  miles  distance. 
They  say  the  wild  sage  is  very  plentiful  on  the  other  side 
the  valley,  showing  that  the  land  is  not  so  rich  there 
as  here.  They  found  a  horse,  near  the  mountain  and 
have  brought  it  to  camp,  supposed  to  have  strayed  from 
emigrants  who  have  previously  passed  this  wav.  To- 
wards sundown  heavy  clouds  were  noticed  in  the  south 
and  southwest.  We  expected  a  shower,  but  it  passed 
off  to  the  east. 

TfKSDAY.  27 in.  Morning  fine  and  warm.  The 
atmosphere  appears  very  different  here  to  what  it  did 
amongst  the  mountains.  The  evenings  and  nights  are 
very  warm  and  pleasant  and  the  air  appears  pure.  Two 


324  WIT.UAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

of  the  Utah  Indians  came  to  camp  early  this  morning 
io  trade.      Two  ponies  were  bought  of  them  for  a  rifle 
and  musket.    These  two  are  but  of  moderate  size,  pleas- 
ing countenance  and  dressed  in  skins.    At  half  past  eight 
Amasa   Lyman,   Rodney  Badger,   Roswell   Stevens,   and 
Hrother  Brannan  arrived  in  camp.    They  report  that  the 
Pueblo  company  will  be  in  tomorrow  or  the  day  after. 
The  brethren  are  still  busy  plowing  and  planting.    Burr 
Frost  has  his  forge  up  and  quite  a  number  of  plows  have 
been  rigged  up  by  the  assistance  of  the  carpenters.  El- 
der Lyman,  I  understand,  reports  that  they  heard  of  a 
large  company  on  their  way  and  he  thinks  we  may  expect 
them  in    15   or  20  days.     Elders   Lyman  and   Brannan 
joined  the  exploring  party  with   President  Young  and 
Kimball  and  the  company  started  off  soon  after  their  ar- 
rival.    A  company  of  brethren  have  been  to  the  moun- 
tains to  get  more  lumber  to  build  a  skiff.    They  returned 
this-  evening  bringing  a  very  handsome  pine  log  about 
twenty  inches  through  and  which,  probably,  when  whole, 
would  measure  sixty  feet  long.     The  day  has  been  very 
fine  and  warm.     The  horses  and  cattle  seem  in  good 
spirits  and  are  getting  fat.     They  are  full  of  life  and 
ambition.       Presidents    Young   and    Kimball     have   had 
their  wagons  moved  a  little  distance  from  the  camp  to 
the   other   side   the   creek.      During   the   afternoon,   two 
more  Indians  came  in  to  trade.     Some  of  the  brethren 
are    making    unwise    trades,    giving  twenty   charges   of 
powder  and  balls  for  a  buck  skin,  while  the  usual  price 
is  three  charges.     This  is  Wrong. 

WEDNESDAY,  28TH.     Morning  fine  and  warm.   Sev- 
eral of  the  Indians  have  remained  in  camp  over  nigh  I. 


\\II.LIA.\1  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  325 

The}'  seem  very  peaceable  and  gentle  and  anxious  to 
trade.  The  brethrn  are  making  a  saw  pit  to  saw  lum- 
ber for  a  skiff.  Joseph  Hancock  and  Lewis  Barney  have 
been  off  hunting  in  the  mountains  two  days.  They  state 
there  is  abundance  of  good  timber  for  building  in  the 
mountains  but  difficult  to  get  at  it.  The  timber  is  mostly 
balsam  fir  and  poplar  and  many  sticks  will  make  two 
god  logs.  At  half  past  three  President  Young  and  com- 
pany returned.  They  have  been  at  the  Salt  Lake  and 
report  it  to  be  about  twenty-five  miles  distance.  No  wa- 
ter auer  thev  leave  the  river  except, salt  water.  The 
lake  is  very  clear  and  the  water  heavy,  so  much  so,  that 
a  man  cannot  possibly  sink.  Even  not  where  more  than 
four  feet  deep  and  they  tried  to  fall  down  on  their 
knees  but  could  not  touch  the  bottom.  They  can  sit  or 
lie  in  the  water  perfectly  easily  without  touching  the 
bottom.  One  of  the  brethren  lay  down  on  the  water 
and  another  got  on  him  but  could  not  sink  him.  They 
suppose  the  water  will  yield  35%'  pure  salt.  They  gath- 
ered some  off  the  rocks  which  is  as  pure,  white  and  fine 
as  the  best  that  can  be  bought  in  market. 

There  is  a  cave  in  the  mountain  west  of  the  camp 
which  is  sixty  feet  from  the  entrance  to  the  far  end. 
The  Indians  appear  to  have  frequently  visited  it  and 
there  are  yet  the  remains  of  their  fires. 

There  appears  to  be  no  fresh  water  beyond  the  river 
and  the  brethren  are  more  and  more  satisfied  that  we 
are  already  on  the  right  spot.  At  eigljt  o'clock  the  breth- 
ren were  called  together  and  addressed  by  I 'resident 
Young  on  various  subjects,  pointing  out  items  of  law 
which  would  he  put  in  force  here,  his  feelings  towards 


326  \VILUAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

the  gentiles,  etc.  He  said  they  intended  to  divide  the. 
city  into  blocks  of  ten  acres  each  with  eight  lots  in  H 
block  of  one  and  a  quarter  acres  each.  The  streets  to  be 
wide.  Xo  house  will  be  permitted  to  be  built  on  the 
corners  oi\the  streets,  neither  petty  shops.  Each  house 
will  have  to  be  built  so  many  feet  back  from  the  street 
and  all  the  houses  parallel  with  each  other.  The  fronts 
are  to  be  beautified  with  fruit  trees,  etc.  Xo  filth  will 
be  allowed  to  stand  in  the  city  but  the  water  will  be 
conducted  through  in  such  a  manner  as  to  carry  all  the 
filth  off  to  the  River  Jordan.  Xo  man  will  be  suffered 
to  cut  up  his  lot  and  sell  a  part  to  speculate  out  of  his 
brethren.  Each  man  must  keep  his  lot  whole,  for  the 
Lord  has  given  it  to  us  without  price.  The  temple  lot 
will  be  forty. acres  and  adorned  with  trees,  ponds,  etc. 
The  whole  subject  was  interesting  to  the  brethren  and 
the  items  will  probably  be  given  more  fully  hereafter. 
The  Twelve  were  appointed  a  committee  to  lay  off  the 
city,  etc. 

,  THURSDAY,  29'rn.  \Ye  have  had  a  very  strong  cold 
east  wind  all  the  night  and  the  morning  is  tolerably 
cool.  At  eleven  o'clock  I  was  moved  up  to  the  other 
camp  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile.  At  ten  o'clock  we 
had  a  light  shower.  It  rained  pretty  heavily  all  around 
but  mostly  passed  by  here.  At  three  o'clock,  the  Pueblo 
brethren  came  in  sight,  the  soldiers  appearing  in  military 
order,  many  of  them  mounted.  They  have  twenty-nine 
wagons  in  the  company  and  one  carriage.  Presidents 
Young,  Kimball  and  the  Twelve  went  to  meet  the  breth- 
ren and  met  them  in  the  canyon.  They  report  that  they 
had  very  heavv  rain  there,  the  water  rising  in  the  creek 


WILLIAM   CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  327 

three  feet  in  a  very  short  time,  caused  by  the  rush  from 
the  mountains.  The  brethren  arrived  at  the  lower  cam]) 
at  half  past  three  and  marched  in  headed  by  the  fifes  and 
side  drum.  They  have  camped  a  little  west  of  the  other 
camj).  The  brethren  are  represented  as  feeling  well  and 
cheerful.  At  five  o'clock  the  Twelve  returned  here  and 
an  hour  later  went  over  north  to  the  mountains.  1  sup- 
pose to  hold  a  council. 

FRIDAY,  3Oni.  Day  warm.  Twelve  held  a  coun- 
cil with  the  officer  of  the  battalion,  then  rode  up  to  the 
hot  spring.  Evening  a  general  meeting  of  the  camp 
and  addressed  by  President  Young.  He  told  his  feel- 
ings concerning  the  soldiers,  they  have  saved  the  people 
by  going  when  required,  etc.  He  rejoiced  that  they  are 
here.  He  expressed"  his  feelings  warmly  towards  tin- 
brethren  and  also  told  his  feelings  towards  the  gentiles. 
The  meeting  was  opened  by  hosannas  three  times  and 
closed  by  requesting  the  battalion  to  build  a  bower  to- 
morrow on  the  temple  lot  where  we  can  assemble  for 
meetings,  etc. 

SATI-KDAY.  31sT.  This  morning  the  brethren  com- 
menced making  the  bower  on  the  temple  lot  a  little  south- 
west from  our  camp.  They  will  make  it  about  forty  feet 
long  and  twenty-eight  feet  wide.  Walked  with  Presi- 
'clent  Young.  Kimball.  Richards  and  others  to  the  Mis- 
sissippi cam]).  Brother  Thomas  Richardson  is  very  sick 
and  several  others  of  the  soldiers.  Soloman  Tindal  is 
yet  alive  but  looks  feeble.  Elder  Kimball  conversed 
sometime  with  Captain  James  Brown.  There  are  from 
twenty  to  thirty  of  the  I'tah  Indians  here  and  some 
squaws  trading  with  the  brethren.  They  are  generally 


328  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

of  low  stature,  pleasing  countenance  but  poorly  clad. 
\Yhile  we  were  there,  a  dispute  arose  between  two  of  the 
young  men  and  they  went  to  fighting  very  fiercely.  One 
broke  his  gun  stock  on  the  other's  head  and  I  expected 
to  see  a  pretty  serious  affray,  many  of  the  others  gath- 
ering around.  Soon  an  old  man  came  up,  father  to 
one  of  the  young  men  engaged  in  the  quarrel  and  he 
used  his  heavy  whip  very  freely  about  both  their  heads 
and  faces.  The  antagonist  of  the  son  struck  the  old  man 
and  he  immediately  gathered  a  long  pole  and  broke  it 
over  the  young  man's  head.  He  succeeded  in  quelling 
the  broil  and  gave  them  a  long  lecture.  They  then 
mostly  left  and  resumed  their  trading  a  little  distance 
from  the  camp.  In  the  afternoon,  we  had  a  pretty  smart 
thunder  shower  and  considerable  wind.  In  the  evening 
I  walked  down  to  the  Pueblo  camp  and  there  learned 
the  following  particulars : 

These  Indians  who  are  now  here  are  of  the  Sho- 
shones, about  fifteen  or  twenty  in  number^  and  several 
women  among  them.  There  were  four  or  five  of  the 
Utahs  here  this  morning  when  the  Shoshones  came 
up.  One  of  the  Utahs  had  stolen  a  horse  from  one  of  the 
Shoshones  and  the  latter  party  saw  him  with  the  horse 
here.  He  had  traded  the  horse  for  a  rifle  but  was  un- 
willing either  to  give  up  the  horse  or  rifle  hence  the 
quarrel  spoken  of  above.  When  the  old  man  separated 
them,  the  thief  went  down  and  hid  himself  in  the  camp 
below.  Soon  after,  he  saw  another  horse  walking  by, 
which  he  knew  to  belong  to  the  Shoshones.  He  sprang 
on  his  own  horse  and  drove  the  other  one  before  him  to- 
wards the  mountains  on  the  southeast  as  hard  as  he 


WILLIAM   CLAYTON'S  JOl'KNAL. 

could  ride.  The  Shoshones  being  informed  of  it,  four  of 
them  started  in  pursuit  and  as  he  got  in  between  the 
mountains  they  closed  in  on  him,  one  of  the  pursuers 
shooting  him  dead  while  another  one  shot  his  horse. 
They  returned  and  made  this  report  to  the  others  of 
the  tribe  at  the  camp  at  the  same  time  exhibiting  fresh 
blood  on  one  of  the  rifles.  They  appear  to  be  much  ex- 
cited and  continually  on  the  watch.  When  the  men  re- 
turned, they  sat  down  and.  made  a  meal  of  some- of  these 
large  crickets.  They  appear  to  be  crisped  over  the  fire 
which  is  all  the  cooking  required.  Many  of  the  breth- 
ern  have  traded  muskets  and  rifles  for  horses  and  ordi- 
nary muskets  will  buy  a  pretty  good  horse.  They  appear 
to  be  displeased  because  we  have  traded  with  the  Utahs 
and  say  they  own  this  land,  that  that  the  Utahs  have  come 
over  the  line,  etc.  They  signified  by  signs  that  they 
wanted  to  sell  us  the  land  for  powder  and  lead.  The 
Shoshones  are  poorer  clad  than  the  Utahs.  They  are 
about  the  same  in  stature  and  there  are  many  pleasing 
countenances  among  them.  Colonel  Markham  reports 
that  there  are  three  lots  of  land  already  broke.  One 
lot  of  thirty-five  acres  of  which  two-thirds  is  .already 
planted  with  buckwheat,  corn,  oats,  etc.  One  lot  of  eight 
acres  which  is  all  planted  with  corn,  potatoes,  beans,  etc. 
And  a  garden  of  ten  acres,  four  acres  of  which  is  sown 
with  garden  seed.  He  says  there  are  about  three  acres 
of  corn  already  up  about  two  inches  above  the  ground 
and  some  beans  and  potatoes  up  too.  This  is  the  result  of 
eight  days'  labor,  besides  making  a  road  to  the  timber, 
hauling  and  sawing  timber  for  a  boat,  making  and  re- 


330  WILLIAM   CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

pairing  plows,  etc.     There  have  been  thirteen  plows  and 
three  harrows  worked  during  the  week. 

SUNDAY,  IST.  We  have  had  another  cool  windy 
night.  At  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning  the  brethren  as- 
sembled for  meeting  under  the  bower  on  the  temple  lot, 
all  the  members  of  the  quorum  of  the  Twelve  being  pres- 
ent except  President  Young  who  is  quite  sick  again.  Af- 
ter the  meeting  had  been  opened  by  singing  and  prayer 
by  Elder  G.  A.  Smith.  Elder  Kimball  arose  and  made 
some  remarks  to  the  following  effect,  as  reported  by 
Brother  Bullock:  "I  would  enquire  whether  there  is  a 
guard  out  around  our  cattle  ;  if  not,  let  one  be  placed  im- 
mediately. The  Indians  left  here  very  suddenly  this 
morning  and  we  don't  know  their  object.  If  we  don't 
take  good  care  of  what  we  have,  we  will  not  have  any- 
more. It  is  all  in  the  world  we  shall  ever  have,  for  'to 
him  that  receiveth  I  will  give  more.'  \Ye  are  the  sons  of 
God  and  He  will  do  with  us  as  we  would  do  to  our  chil- 
dren, and  inasmuch  as  I  am  faithful  in  taking  care  of  my 
leighbors'  goods,  I  shall  be  entitled  to  the  same  from 
them,  for  we  are  commanded  to  do  unto  others  as  we 
want  others  to  do  to  us.  Every  penurious  man  who  takes 
advantage  of  others  will  come  down  to  poverty.  If  we 
have  to  follow  the  steps  of  our  Savior  we  have  to  fol- 
low and  experience  the  same  things  :  you  will  have  to  feel 
for  men  so  as  to  know  how  to  sympathize  with  them  and 
then  you  can  feel  for  them.  I  feel  for  this  people  and 
grow  more  feeling  for  them  every  day.  Our  Father  in 
Heaven  is  more  tender  to  us  than  any  mother  to  her  lit- 
tle child.  If  I  am  faithful  to  serve  others,  others  will 
be  willing  to  serve  me." 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  331 

Orson  Pratt  requested  the  prayers  of  the  Saints  in 
his  behalf :  "It  is  with  peculiar  feelings  that  I  arise  be- 
fore so  many  of  the  Saints  in  this  uncultivated  region  in 
habited  by  savages.  My  mind  is  full  of  reflection  on  the 
scenes  through  which  we  have  passed  and  being  brought 
through  the  deserts  of  sage  to  this  distant  region.  God's 
ways  are  not  as  our  ways.  Tt  is  not  wisdom  that  the 
Saints  should  always  foresee  the  difficulties  they  have  to 
encounter  for  then  they  would  not  be  trials.  We  ex- 
pected some  revelations  to  take  place  and  behold  they  arc 
revealed  in  the  Hook  of  Mormon  and  Doctrine  and  Cov- 
enants, for  we  are  to  congregate  among  the  remnants  of 
Joseph.  \Ye  did  think  our  wives  and  children  would  be 
built  up  among  the  strongholds  of  the  gentiles,  we 
thought  we  should  be  as  M'issourians  to  them.  Jehovah 
had  different  purposes.  He  designed  that  this  people 
should  be  brought  out  almost  as  an  entire  people.  The 
Book  of  Mormon  never  would  have  been  fulfilled  if  the 
Saints  had  not  left  the  gentiles  as  a  people,  for  when  the 
gentiles  rejected  the  Gospel  it  was  to  be  taken  among  the 
Lamanites.  So  long  as  the  Gospel,  the  Priesthood  and 
the  main  body  of  the  people  remained  with  them,  the  full- 
ness of  the  Gospel  was  not  taken  away  from  the  gen- 
tiles. This  movement  is  one  of  the  greatest  that  has 
taken  place  among  this  people.  1  feel  thankful  as  one  of 
the  Twelve  for  the  privilege  of  coming  out  as  one  of  the 
pioneers  to  this  glorious  valley  where  we  can  build  up  a 
city  to  the  Lord.  For  many  years  I  have  not  read  that 
good  old  book,  but  I  remember  the  predictions  in  it  and 
some  that  are  now  very  nearly  fulfilled  by  us.  Isaiah 
says.  (  Chapter  62)  speaking  of  the  City  of  Zion.  it  shall 


3.32  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

be  'Sought  out,  a  city  not  forsaken,'  etc.  Many  in  this 
congregation  know  what  is  meant  by  the  garments  of 
salvation  and  the  robe  of  righteousness.  Righteousness 
and  praise  shall  spring  forth  'before  all  the  nations  of 
the  earth  and  they  will  not  hold  their  peace.  There  are 
many  of  you  that  feel  you  can  cry  day  and  night  to  the 
people  in  the  cause  of  righteousness  until  it  shall  tri- 
umph. 'For  as  a  young  man  marrieth  a  virgin,'  etc., — 
this  belongs  and  refers  to  us.  'I  will  no  longer  give  thy 
corn  to  be  meat  for  thine  enemy.'  This  has  not  been  ful- 
filled heretofore  but  will  be.  The  corn  that  we  toil  to 
raise  from  the  earth,  it  shall  not  be  given  to  our  enemies, 
they  that  gather  it  shall  eat  it,  and  they  shall  drink- 
in  the  courts  of  His  holiness.  This  wine  is  also  to  be 
drunk  in  the  courts  of  the  Lord's  house.  We  have  gath- 
ered out  the  stones  out  of  the  road  and  thousands  will  yet 
fulfil  this  prophecy.  It  has  reference  to  the  latter  times 
that  were  to  dawn  upon  the  world  in  the  last  dispensa- 
tion. 'Thou  shalt  be  called,  Sought  out,  A  city  not  for- 
saken.' If  ever  there  was  a  place  sought  out  it  is  this, 
we  have  enquired  diligently  and  have  found  it.  This 
cannot  refer  to  Jerusalem,  but  to  this  very  place,  point 
and  spot  that  the  pioneers  have  found  where  a  city  shall 
be  built  unto  the  Lord,  where  righteousness  will  reign 
and  iniquity  not  be  allowed.  Isaiah  and  Joel  both  spake 
very  plainly  on  this  subject.  'It  shall  come  to  pass  in 
the  last  days  that  the  house  of  the  Lord  shall  be  estab- 
lished,' etc.  In  what  part  of  the  earth  could  it  be  estab- 
lished more  than  in  this  place  where  this  congregation  is 
gathered.  In  the  midst  of  the  spires  of  the  mountains 
we  have  found  a  place  large  enough  to  gather  a  few 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  333 

thousand  of  the  Saints.  You  may  travel  Europe,  Asia, 
Africa  and  America  but  yon  cannot  find  a  place  much 
higher  where  any  people  can  raise  crops  and  sustain 
themselves.  The  house  of  the  Lord  will  be  established 
on  the  tops  of  the  mountains  when  we  shall  have  once 
reared  here.  The  experience  of  the  Saints  proves  that 
there  was  no  house  of  the  Lord,  and  we  can  say :  travel 
over  this  earth  but  yon  cannot  find  the  bouse  of  the 
Lord.  The  Lord  must  give  the  pattern  of  the  building 
and  order  it,  and  give  directions  to  His  servants.  The 
Lord  wants  His  house  built  precisely  to  the  pattern  that 
He  gives  and  He  is  bound  to  speak  to  and  bless  and 
make  them  His  own  children  in  that  house  and  I  verily 
believe  I  shall  see  it  and  see  thousands  come  flocking  to 
the  house  to  learn  the  way  of  salvation.  And  I  want 
to  see  the  time  that  I  shall  see  thousands  raising  their 
voices  on  this  consecrated  land.  There  are  many  testi- 
monies in  the  prophets  all  bearing  upon  this  subject. 
Joseph,  in  the  Book  of  Doctrine  and  Covenants  speaks  of 
this  very  subject  and  it  appears  there  will  be  some  sin- 
ners in  Zion  who  will  be  afraid  and  a  devouring  fire 
will  rest  upon  every  dwelling  place  in  Zion.  'He  that 
walketh  righteously'  etc.,  'He  shall  dwell  on  high,  bread 
shall  be  given  him,  his  water  shall  be  sure.'  Isaiah  was 
on  the  eastern  continent  when  he  spoke  this  and  was 
speaking  of  a  very  distant  place.  It  will  be  pretty  dif- 
ficult to  get  a  ship  of  war  up  to  this  place.  When  we  get 
used  to  this  healthy  climate,  the  people  will  not  say,  I 
am  sick,  but  will  be  able  to  smite  the  gentiles.  They  will 
grow  up  strong  and  will  not  be  in  jeopardy  from  sick- 
ness.  The  wilderness  shall  become  as  a  fruitful  field  and 


3.W  WILLIAM   CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

a  fruitful  field  as  a  forest.  We  know  the  time  will  come 
that  the  great  Jehovah  will  cause  springs  of  water  to 
gush  out  of  the  desert  lands  and  we  shall  see  the  lands 
survive  that  the  gentiles  have  defiled.  Isaiah  speaks  of 
the  heritage  of  Jacob  being  in  a  high  place.  This  is  about 
four  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  and  the 
high  mountains  will  still  catch  the  hail  and  we  shall  he  in 
a  low  place.  We  will  not  feel  discouraged  but  will  feel 
full  of  vigor  and  circumscribe  all  things  to  the  very 
heavens,  for  this  is  what  we  desire  above  all  things.  Let 
us  endeavor  to  covenant  in  our  hearts,  that  we  will  serve 
the  Lord ;  that  we  will  keep  His  commandments  and  obey 
His  counsel.  I  wish  that  all  of  us  should  be  faithful  and 
as  President  Young  said  the  other  evening,  every  man  is 
expected  to  do  his  duty.  The  Lord  will  be  with  us  still ; 
He  will  shield,  guard  and  defend  us  by  day  and  be  our 
refuge  by  night,  and  our  salvation.  I  feel  to  say  in  the 
name  of  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ,  you  shall  be  blest  if  you 
keep  the  commandments  of  God.  Amen." 

Elder  Kimball  hopes  the  brethren  will  be  attentive 
to  what  they  hear  for  if  you  bring  an  evil  upon  this  peo- 
ple you  will  bring  destruction  upon  yourself.  If  you  do 
things  according  to  counsel  and  they  are  wrong,  the  con- 
sequences will  fall  on  the  heads  of  those  who  counseled 
you,  so  don't  be  troubled.  I  do  not  want  to  be  wrapt  in 
the  skins  of  some  men  who  have  taken  a  course  that  has 
brought  destruction  upon  themselves  and  others,  and  they 
will  have  to  answer  for  it.  I  am  a  man  that  would  not 
speak  to  a  man's  daughter  to  marry  her  until  1  have 
first  spoken  to  her  father  and  mother  also,  and  then  it  is 
done  by  common  consent.  But  I  preach  the  truth,  every 


WILLIAM   CLAYTON'S  JOI'RXAI..  335 

word  of  it.  President  Young  instructed  the  Battalion 
last  evening  and  counseled  them  for  their  comfort  and  the 
counsel  is  for  the  brethren  to  keep  their  guns  and  their 
powder  and  their  halls  and  lead  and  not  let  the  Indians 
have  it  for  they  will  shoot  down  our  cattle.  They  stole 
guns  yesterday  and  had  them  under  their  blankets  and  if 
you  don't  attend  to  this  you  are  heating  a  kettle  of  boil- 
ing water  to  scald  your  own  feet.  If  you  listen  to  counsel 
you  will  let  them  alone  and  let  them  eat  the  crickets, 
there's  a  plenty  of  them.  I  understand  they  offered  to 
sell  the  land  and  we  were  to  buy  it  of  them,  the  L'tahs 
would  want  pay  for  it  too.  The  land  belongs  to  our 
Kather  in  Heaven  and  we  calculate  to  plow  and  plant  it 
and  no  man  will  have  power  to  sell  his  inheritance  for  he 
cannot  remove  it ;  it  belongs  to  the  Lord.  I  am  glad  I 
have  come  to  a  place  where  I  feel  free.  I  am  satisfied 
and  we  are  in  a  goodly  land.  My  family  is  back,  my 
teams  are  helping  on  several  families  and  leaving  ours. 
I  f  my  family  were  here  1  would  not  go  over  that  road 
again.  I  believe  in  Brother  Joseph's  religion  which  he 
said  was  a  key  that  would  save  every  man  or  woman,  and 
that  it  is  for  every  man  to  mind  his  own  business  and  let 
oilier  people's  business  alone.  \Ye  will  all  have  farms 
and  cultivate  them  and  plant  vineyards,  and  if  we  are 
faithful,  five  years  will  not  pass  away  before  we  are  bet- 
ter off  than  we  ever  were  in  Xauvoo.  If  we  had  brought 
our  families  along  everybody  else  would  have  come ;  and 
we  must  lose  another  year.  \Ye  could  not  bring  all  the 
soldier's  families  for  the  same  reason  that  we  did  not 
bring  our  own  families.  I  thank  the  Lord  that  there 
are  so  manv  of  the  soldiers  here.  If  thev  had  tarried 


336  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

in  Winter  Quarters  there  would  have  been  many  more 
deaths  among  them.  We  brought  many  of  these  pioneers 
to  save  their  lives,  many  of  them  were  very  sick  and  were 
carried  out  of  their  beds  and  put  into  the  wagons.  They 
have  mostly  recovered  their  health  and  we  have  been 
prosperous  and  have  been  permitted  to  arrive  here  alive. 
There  has  not  one  died  on  the  journey,  nor  an  ox  nor 
horse  nor  anything  except  one  of  Brother  Crow's  oxen 
which  was  poisoned.  We  lost  several  horses  by  acci- 
dent and  we  shall  be  prosperous  on  our  journey  back 
again  if  we  are  faithful,  those  of  us  who  go,  and  we 
shall  see  and  enjoy  the  society  of  our  families  again. 
We  will  one  day  have  a  house  built  here  and  have  the 
forts  and  go  into  the  house  and  administer  for  our  dead." 
Elder  Richards  then  read  an  order  from  Lieut.  Cooke 
of  the  Mormon  Battalion  on  the  Pacific,  after  which 
Elder  Bullock  read  a  letter  from  Jefferson  Hunt  to 
James  Brown,  dated  July  6,  1847,  after  which  and  a 
few  other  remarks,  the  meeting  was  dismissed. 

At  2 :25  the  congregation  assembled  and  opened  by 
singing  and  prayer  by  Elder  Woodruff.  Bread  and  wa- 
ter were  then  administered  by  the  bishops  after  which  El- 
der Richards,  after  a  few  preliminary  remarks  read  the 
"Word  and  will  of  ithe  Lord,"  as  given  in  Winter  Quar- 
ters. Elder  Kimball  made  some  remarks  and  the  breth- 
ren manifested  that  they  received  and  would  obey  the 
revelations  by  uplifted  hand.  He  was  followed  by  re- 
marks by  Elder  Amasa  Lyman,'  mostly  sustaining  the 
positions  taken  by  the  previous  speakers.  Elder  Kimball 
again  rose  to  lay  before  the  brethren  some  items  of 
business,  whereupon  it  was  decided  that  the  three  com- 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  337 

panics  form  into  one  camp  and  labor  together  ;that  the  of- 
ficers be  a  committee  to  form  the  corral,  and  that  the  cor- 
ral be  formed  tomorrow.  That  horses  and  mules  be  tied 
near  the  camp  at  nights:  that  we  build  houses  instead  of 
living  in  wagons  this  winter;  that  we  go  to  work  im- 
mediately putting  up  houses;  that  we  work  unitedly:  that 
the  houses  form  a  stockade  or  fort  to  keep  out  the  In- 
dians ;  that  our  women  and  children  be  not  abused  and 
that  we  let  the  Indians  alone. 

Colonel  Rockwood  remarked  that  a  log  house  16  by 
15  would  cost  forty  dollars  and  one  of  adobes  half  as 
much.  Captain  Brown  was  in  favor  of  setting  men  to 
work  building  both  log  and  adobe  houses  to  hasten  the 
work.  Captain  Lewis  said  that  inasmuch  as  timber  is 
scarce  and  we  have  spades  and  shovels  and  tools  enough, 
as  many  as  can  be  used,  he  is  in  favor  of  building  adobe 
houses  and  saving  the  timber.  Lieutenant  Willis  said 
you  can  put  up  an  adobe  house  before  a  man  could  get 
the  logs  for  a  log  house.  Adobe  houses  are  healthy  and 
are  the  best  for  equinoxial  gales.  Elder  Brannan  has  a 
man  in  Canifornia  who  will  take  three  men,  make  adobes 
for  a  thirty  foot  house,  build  the  house  and  put  a  family 
in  it  in  a  week.  His  printing  office  was  put  up  in  four- 
teen days  and  a  paper  printed.  Elder  Richards  said  we 
want  brick  made  and  lime  burned.  If  wood  is  put  into 
houses  it  will  be  a  waste  of  it.  We  want  all  the  timber 
to  make  floors  and  roofs.  We  want  the  walls  up  and  we 
are  men  enough  to  put  them  up  in  a  few  days  and  have 
the  women  protected.  It  was  voted  to  put  up  a  stockade 
of  adobe  houses.  Samuel  Gould  and  James  Drum  re- 
ported themselves  as  lime  burners.  Sylvester  H.  Earl, 

23 


338  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

Joel  T-  Terrill,  Ralph  Douglas  and  Joseph  Hancock  re- 
ported themselves  as  brick  makers.  Elder  Kimball  then 
remarked  that  those  who  intend  to  send  ox  teams  back 
to  Winter  Quarters  must  be  ready  a  week  from  tomorrow 
morning.  If  the  cattle's  feet  are  too  tender,  have  them 
shod,  or  have  new  shoes  in  the  wagons.  Those  oxen  to 
rest  and  be  released  from  plowing,  etc.  Do  not  get  the 
Indians  around  here.  I  want  you  to  have  nothing  to 
do  with  them.  After  a  few  remarks  on  general  items, 
the  meeting  dismissed. 

MONDAY,  2ND.  We  have  had  another  cool  night, 
but  morning  fine.  The  other  companies  commenced  mov- 
ing their  wagons  up  and  we  also  moved  a  little  farther 
east.  During  the  day  the  whole  camp  was  formed  in  an 
oblong  circle.  About  noon  Ezra  T.  Benson  and  sev- 
eral others  started  back  to  meet  the  next  company.  They 
carried  a  letter,  the  following  being  a  copy  of  the  same : 

"Pioneer  camp.  Valley  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake, 
August  2,  1847.  To  General  Chas.  C.  Rich  and  the  Pres- 
idents and  Officers  of  the  emigrating  company.  Be- 
loved Brethren :  We  have  delegated  our  beloved  Brother 
Ezra  T.  Benson  and  escort  to  communicate  to  you  by  ex- 
press the  cheering  intelligence  that  we  have  arrived  in 
the  most  beautiful  valley  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  that 
every  soul  who  left  Winter  Quarters  writh  us  is  alive  and 
almost  everyone  enjoying  good  health.  That  portion  of 
the  battalion  that  was  at  Pueblo  is  here  with  us  together 
with  the  Mississippi  company  that  accompanied  them  and 
they  are  generally  well.  We  number  about  450  souls  and 
we  know  of  no  one  but  who  is  pleased  with  our  situa- 
tion. We  have  commenced  the  survev  of  a  citv  this 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  339 

morning.  \\V  feel  that  the  time  is  fast  approaching 
when  those  teams  that  are  going  to  Winter  Quarters  this 
fall  should  he  on  the  way.  Every  individual  here  would 
he  glad  to  tarry  if  his  friends  were  here,  but  as  many 
of  the  battalion,  as  well  as  the  pioneers,  have  not  their 
families  here  and  do  not  expect  that  they  are  in  your 
camp,  we  wish  to  learn  by  express  from  you,  the  situa- 
tion of  your  camp  as  speedily  as  possible  that  we  may 
be  prepared  to  counsel  and  act  in  the  whole  matter.  We 
want  you  to  send  us  the  names  of  every  individual  in 
your  camp,  or  in  other  words,  a  copy  of  your  camp  roll, 
including  the  names,  number  of  wagons,  horses,  muies, 
oxen,  cows,  etc.,  and  the  health  of  your  camp,  your  lo- 
cation, prospects,  etc.  If  your  teams  are  worn  out,  if 
your  camp  is  sick  and  not  able  to  take  care  of  them- 
selves, if  you  are  short  of  teamsters  or  any  other  cir- 
cumstance impeding  your  progress.  We  want  to  know 
it  immediately  for  we  have  help  for  you,  and  if  your 
teams  are  in  good  plight  and  will  be  able  to  return  to 
Winter  Quarters  this  season  or  any  portion  of  them,  we 
want  to  know-  it.  We  also  want  the  mail,  which  will 
include  all  letters  and  papers,  and  packages  belonging 
to  our  camp,  general  and  particular.  Should  circum- 
stances permit,  we  would  gladly  meet  you  some  dis- 
tance from  this,  but  our  time  is  very  much  occupied. 
Notwithstanding,  we  think  you  will  see  us  before  you 
see  our  valley.  Let  all  the  brethren  and  sisters  cheer  up 
their  hearts  and  know  assuredly  that  God  has  heard  and 
answered  their  prayers  and  ours  and  led  us  to  a  goodly 
land,  and  our  souls  are  satisfied  therewith.  Brother 
Benson  can  give  yon  many  particulars  that  will  be  grati- 


340  WILLIAM    CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

fying  and  cheering  to  you  which  we  have  not  time  to 
write,  and  we  feel  to  bless  all  the  Saints.  In  behalf  of 
the  council.  Willard  Richards,  Clerk.  Brigham 
Young,  President. 

This  morning,  Elders  Pratt  and  Sherwood  com- 
menced surveying  the  city  to  lay  it  off  in  lots  but  finally 
concluded  to  wait  until  the  chain  could  be  tested  by  a 
standard  pole  which  will  have  to  be  gotten  from  the 
mountains.  Some  of  the  brethren  are  preparing  to  make 
moulds  for  adobes.  In  the  evening.  Elder  Kimball's 
teams  returned  from  the  mountains  with  some  good  house 
logs  and  poles  for  measuring,  etc.  The  day  has  been 
very  warm  but  the  nights  begin  to  be  very  cool.  The 
northeast  winds  seem  to  prevail  here  at  this  season  and 
coming  from  the  mountains  of  snow  are  cold  when  the 
sun  is  down.  After  dark  President  Young  sent  for  me 
to  come  to  his  wagon  and  told  his  calculations  about  our 
starting  back.  He  wants  me  to  start  with  the  ox  teams 
next  Monday  so  as  to  have  a  better  privilege  of  taking  the 
distances,  etc.  He  calculates  the  horse  teams  to  start 
two  weeks  later,  and  if  the  first  company  arrives  at 
Grand  Island  before  the  other  comes  up  to  wait  for  them 
there,  kill  and  dry  buffalo,  etc.  He  wants  the  roado- 
meter  fixed  this  week  and  Elder  Kimball  has  selected 
William  King  to  do  the  work. 

TUESDAY.  3RD.  Morning  fine,  but  cool.  Elder  Car- 
rington  starts  for  the  mountains  to  look  for  limestone. 
During  the  day  I  went  and  bathed  at  Bullock's  bathing 
place  in  one  of  the  warm  sulphur  springs.  I  found  the 
effects  very  refreshing  and  beneficial.  Spent  most  of 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  341 

the  day  making  a  table  of  distances,  etc.     The  day  very 
hot. 

WKDXKSDAY,  4Tii.  This  morning  William  A.  King 
has  commenced  making  a  new  roadometer.  The  day 
very  hot  and  close. 

THURSDAY.  5'nr.  Again  at  the  roadometer,  day  very 
warm.  J.  C.  Little  and  others  have  returned  and  report 
that  they  have  been  at  the  Utah  Lake.  As  they  went 
up  they  saw  bodies  of  two  dead  Indians  lying  on  the 
ground  proving  that  there  was  one  of  each  tribe  killed 
the  other  day.  They  consider  it  to  be  about  forty  miles 
to  the  Utah  Lake  and  on  the  east  side  is  a  handsome  val- 
ley about  sbc  or  eight  miles  wide.  They  are  now  con- 
vinced that  the  stream  which  runs  a  few  miles  below 
here  is  the  Utah  outlet,  they  having  followed  it  to  its 
junction  with  the  lake. 

FRIDAY,  6TH.     The  day  very  warm. 

SATURDAY,  /TII.  Today  William  A.  King  has  fin- 
ished the  roadometer  which  will  now  tell  the  distance 
for  one  thousand  miles  without  keeping  any  account. 
About  noon  a  very  large  whirlwind  struck  the  south  side 
of  the  camp  forming  a  cloud  of  dust  about  twenty  feet 
in  diameter  and  making  a  loud  roar.  It  carried  a  chicken 
up  some  distance,  tore  up  the  bowers,  and  shook  the 
wagons  violently  in  its  course.  It  passed  off  to  the 
northeast  and  seemed  to  break  at  the  mountains.  This 
morning  fifteen  of  the  brethren  commenced  building  a 
dam  a  little  above  the  camp  so  as  to  bring  the  water 
around  and  inside  the  camp.  They  finished  early  in  th" 
afternoon  and  we  have  now  a  pleasant  little  stream  o" 
cold  water  running  on  each  side  the  wagons  all  around 


342  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

the  camp.  Where  the  water  runs  off  or  overflows  the 
gutters,  it  soon  becomes  miry  and  cattle  will  sink  a  half 
a  yard  in  mud.  This  is  owing  to  the  lightness  of  the 
soil,  it  being  very  light  and  rich.  In  the  evening,  many 
of  the  brethren  went  and  were  baptized  in  the  dam  by 
Elder  Kimball  for  the  remission  of  sins.  Elders  Pratt, 
Woodruff,  and  Smith  attending  to  confirmation.  I  went 
and  was  baptized  amongst  the  rest.  It  has  been  recom- 
mended for  all  the  camp  to  be  baptized  and  this  evening 
they  have  commenced  it.  . 

SUNDAY,  STH.  Morning  cloudy  with  strong 
northeast  wind.  The  brethren  have  resumed  baptizing 
and  a  number  have  obeyed  the  ordinance  both  male  and 
female.  At  ten  o'clock,  a  meeting  was  'held  in  the  bow- 
ery and  instructions  given  to  the  brethren.  At  two 
o'clock,  sacrament  was  administered  and  110  of  the 
brethren  selected  to  make  adobes.  Wrote  a  letter  for 
Heber  to  Elder  Martin  and  others. 

MONDAY,  9xn.  At  eleven  o'clock,  Brannan,  Cap- 
tain James  Brown  and  several  others  started  for  San 
Francisco.  Elder  J.  C.  Little  accompanies  them  to  Fort 
Hall.  I  spent  three  hours  taking  observations  with  the 
barometer  with  Elder  Pratt  to  ascertain  the  height  of 
the  land,  on  the  creek  above  the  city.  Ensign  Peak,  etc. 
The  twelve  had  decided  on  a  name  for  this  place  and  a 
caption  for  all  letters  and  documents  issued  from  this 
place,  which  is  as  follows:  Salt  Lake  City,  Great  Basin. 
North  America. 

TUESDAY,   lOra.     This   morning,   President  Young 

*— ' '  o 

and  Kimball  have  gone  to  the  adobe  yard  to  commence 
building  some  houses  in  that  region.  They  have  already 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  .W 

got  many  good  logs  on  the  ground.  Colonel  Markham 
reports  that  in  addition  to  the  plowing  done  week  before 
last,  they  have  plowed  about  thirty  acres  which  is  mostly 
planted,  making  a  total  of  about  eighty  acres.  The  plow- 
ing ceased  last  week  and  the  brethren  are  now  making 
adobes,  hauling  logs,  etc.  Elder  Sherwood  continues 
surveying  the  city.  Tanner  and  Frost  are  setting  wagon 
tires  and  have  set  fifty-two  today.  The  brethren  who 
went  to  the  lake  on  Monday  to  boil  down  salt  have  re- 
turned this  evening  and  report  that  they  have  found  a 
bed  of  beautiful  salt  ready  to  load  into  wagons.  It  lies 
between  two  sand  bars  and  is  about  six  inches  thick. 
They  suppose  they  can  easily  load  ten  wagons  without 
boiling.  T  have  received  from  Elder  Kimball  a  pair  of 
buckskin  pants,  as  a  present  I  suppose,  but  as  I  have  on 
similar  occasions  been  branded  with  the  idea  of  receiv- 
ing a  great  many  kindnesses  without  consideration,  I  will 
for  this  once  state  a  little  particular  on  the  other  side  the 
question.  I  acknowledge  that  I  have  had  the  privilege 
of  riding  in  a  wagon  and  sleeping  in  it.  of  having  my 
victuals  cooked  and  some  meat  and  milk,  and  occasion- 
ally a  little  tea  or  coffee  furnished.  My  flour  I  fur- 
nished myself.  I  have  had  no  team  to  take  care  ot. 
Howard  Egan  has  done  most  of  my  washing  until  a 
month  ago  in  consideration  of  the  privilege  of  copying 
from  my  journal,  using  my  desk,  ink.  etc.  The  balance 
of  my  washing  I  have  hired.  Now  what  have  T  done  for 
Brother  Kimball?  Am  I  justly  indebted  on  this  journey? 
Answer:  I  have  written  in  his  journal  124  pages  of 
close  matter  on  an  average  of  600  words  to  a  page,  which 
if  paid  at  the  price  of  recording  deeds  in  Illinois  would 


344  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

amount  to  over  $110.00.  I  have  collected  the  matter 
myself,  besides  writing  letters,  etc.  This  has  been  for 
his  special  benefit.  I  have  kept  an  account  of  the  dis- 
tance we  have  traveled  for  over  800  miless  of  the  jour- 
,.ey,  attended  to  the  measurement  of  the  road,  kept  the 
distances  from  creek  to  creek  and  from  one  encamp- 
ment to  another;  put  up  a  guide  board  every  ten  miles 
from  Fort  John  to  this  place  with  the  assistance  of 
Philo  Johnson.  I  have  mapped  some  for  Dr.  Richards 
and  keeping  my  own  journal  forms  the  whole  benefit 
to  be  derived  by  my  family  by  this  mission.  I  have  yet 
considerable  to  write  in  Elder  Kimball's  journal  before 
I  return.  I  am  expected  to  keep  a  table  of  distances  of 
the  whole  route  returning  from  here  to  Winter  Quarters 
and  make  a  map  when  I  get  through,  and  this  for  public 
benefit.  Now  how  much  am  I  considered  to  be  in  debt, 
and  how  often  will  it  be  said  that  I  was  furnished  by 
others  with  victuals,  clothing,  etc.,  that  I  might  enjoy 
this  journey  as  a  mission  of  pleasure.  I  have  spent  most 
of  this  day  calculating  the  height  of  this  spot  above  the 
level  of  the  sea  for  Elder  Pratt. 

WEDNESDAY,  Urn.  Early  this  morning,  a  large 
company  of  the  Utah  Indians  came  to  visit  the  camp  and 
it  was  with  difficulty  they  could  be  kept  outside  the 
wagons.  There  are  few  of  them  who  have  any  clothing 
on  except  the  breech  clout  and  are  mostly  of  low  stature. 
They  have  scarcely  anything  to  trade  and  not  many 
women  and  children  with  them.  They  are  camped 
about  three  miles  north  of  west  and  supposed  to  be  going- 
north  hunting.  One  of  them  was  detected  stealing  some 
clothing  which  lay  on  the  bushes  to  drv,  but  was  made 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  345 

to  leave  it.  When  they  found  they  were-  not  permitted 
inside  the  circle,  they  soon  moved  off  to  their  camp. 
The  brethren  have  commenced  laying  the  adobe  wall  to- 
day which  will  be  twenty-seven  inches  thick  and  nine  feet 
high.  The  adobes  are  18  inches  long,  9  inches  broad 
and  4  1/2  inches  thick.  The  brethren  in  camp  have 
finished  the  skiff  and  launched  her  in  the  creek  to  soak. 
About  five  o'clock,  a  child  of  Therlkill's  was  found  in 
the  creek  south  of  the  camp  drowned.  Various  efforts 
were  made  to  restore  it  but  unsuccessfully.  The  child 
was  about  three  years  old  and  its  parents  mourn  the  ac- 
cident bitterly.  The  day  has  been  very  hot,  but  as  usual, 
at  sundown  we  have  a  strong,  cool  wind  from  the  north- 
east. 

TIITKSDAV.  12ni.  Spent  the  forenoon  with  Elder 
Pratt  in  taking  observations  to  ascertain  the  height  of 
the  temple  block  above  the  Utah  outlet  which  he  found  to 
be  sixty-five  feet.  The  altitude  one  mile  up  the  creek 
above  the  temple  block  is  214  feet  and  the  altitude  of 
the  temple  block  above  the  level  of  the  sea  is  4300  feet. 
The  latitude  40°  45'  50".  The  blacksmiths  are  very  busy 
shoeing  oxen  and  there  is  prospect  that  the  ox  teams 
will  start  back  on  Monday  or  Tuesday.  The  soldiers  are 
getting  dissatisfied  at  being  kept  here  so  long  from  their 
families  and  yesterday  several  of  them  left  the  camp 
secretly  to  go  to  Winter  Quarters  and  this  morning- 
others  are  gone,  but  it  is  probable  that  President  Young 
knows  nothing  of  it  yet  although  about  a  dozen  are  al- 
ready gone  and  others  are  preparing  to  follow  them. 
On  Tuesday  President  Young  laid  a  foundation  for 
four  houses ;  Elder  Kimball  four,  Colonel  Markham  one. 


346  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

Dr.  Richards  one,  and  Lorenzo  Young  two.  and  today 
Dr.  Richards  has  laid  the  foundation  of  another,  George 
A.  Smith  two  and  Wilford  Woodruff  two.  making  a 
total  of  seventeen  houses  mostly  fourteen  feet  wide  and 
from  twelve  to  seventeen  long.  Elder  Kimball  has  his 
house  four  logs  high. 

FRIDAY,  13TH.  Spent  the  day  mostly  writing.  The 
brethren  have  got  130  bushels  of  salt  with  twenty-four 
hours  labor. 

SATURDAY,  14xH.  Started  at  8:40  in  company  with 
a  number  of  others  for  the  Salt  Lake.  We  arrived  at 
three  o'clock  and  estimated  the  distance  twenty-two 
miles.  We  all  bathed  in  it  and  found  the  reports  of  those 
who  had  previously  bathed  in  no  ways  exaggerated.  \Ve 
returned  back  to  the  river  where  we  arrived  at  eleven 
o'clock  at  the  beginning  of  a  light  thunder  shower.  There 
is  no  pure  fresh  water  between  the  river  and  the  lake. 

SUNDAY,  15xH.  President  Young  preached  on  the 
death  of  little  children,  etc.  Evening  the  company  com- 
posing those  who  are  returning  with  the  ox  teams  met 
and  voted  that  Shadrach  Roundy  and  Tunis  Rappleyee 
be  captains.  They  received  instructions  to  start  tomor- 
row and  travel  leisurely  to  Grand  Island  and  there  wait 
for  the  last  company  of  horse  teams.  J.  C.  Little  and 
company  returned  yesterday  from  Utah  Lake,  and  this 
morning  the  exploring  company  returned. 

MONDAY,  16rH.  Spent  most  of  the  day  fixing  the 
roadometer.  also  finished  marking  the  distances,  camp- 
ing places,  etc.,  on  Dr.  Richards'  map  from  Devil's  gate 
to  Little  Sandy.  Evening  took  the  wagon  in  company 
with  Jackson  Redding  and  Howard  Egan  to  the  warm. 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  347 

spring  to  try  the  roadometer.  We  found  the  distance 
to  1)0  one  and  a  half  miles.  Most  of  the  company  of 
ox  teams  have  started  today  for  Winter  Quarters.  They 
will  go  to  the  canyon  and  wait  there  till  morning.  After 
dark.  Elder  Kimball  called  a  number  of  us  together  in 
the  tent  and  each  one  present  selected  a  lot  for  himself 
and  family.  I  had  previously  selected  lots  1,  7  and  8  on 
block  95,  but  President  Young  broke  into  our  arrange- 
ments and  wished  7  and  8  reserved,  consequently  I  made 
choice  of  lots  1,  2  and  3  on  block  95. 

TUESDAY,  I/TIT.  Started  out  at  8:10  and  found  the 
distance  to  the  mouth  of  the  canyon  five  miles,  the  dif- 
ference arising  from  making  a  road  across  instead  of 
following  the  first  one.  One  and  three  quarters  of  a 
mile  farther  arrived  at  where  the  company  had  camped 
for  the  night  and  found  them  all  ready  to  start,  only 
waiting  for  President  Young  to  arrive  and  give  some 
instructions,  but  he  sent  word  he  should  not  come  and  we 
started  forward.  Elders  Kimball  and  Richards  soon  over- 
took the  company,  gave  some  instructions,  then  returned 
and  the  company  moved  on.  On  arriving  at  Birch 
Spring,  we  encamped  for  the  night,  having  traveled  thir- 
teen and  a  half  miles.  There  is  considerable  danger  of 
cattle  miring  near  the  spring  and  several  have  already 
had  to  be  pulled  out.  This  company  consists  of  seventy- 
one  men  with  thirty-three  wagons.  After  camping,  the 
brethren  w'ere  called  together  by  Captain  Roundy  for 
the  purpose  of  organizing.  He  briefly  stated  the  man- 
ner of  the  organization  of  the  camp  when  we  left  Winter 
Quarters  and  it  was  unanimously  voted  to  organi/e  after 
the  same  pattern  which  was  done  as  follows: 


34S  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

1ST  DIVISION. 
1ST  TEN 

Joseph  Skeen,  Captain.  Wm.  Burt 

Artemas  Johnson  James  Dunn 

James  Caxicr  Josepli  Shipley 

Geo.  Cummings  Samuel  Badham 

Thos.  Richardson  Roswel  Stevens 

2ND  TEN. 

Zebedee  Coltrin,  Captain.  Wm.  Bird 

Chester  Loveland  Josiah  Curtis 

Lorenzo  Babcock  John  S.  Eldridge 

Samuel  H.  Marble  Horace  Thornton 
Geo.  Scholes 

3RD  TEN 

Francis    Boggs,   Captain.       Geo.  Wardle 
Sylvester  H.  Earl     .  Seeley  Owens 

Almon  M.  Williams  Clark  Stillman. 

Tunis   Rappleyee,   Captain   of    1st   Division.   James 
Ca/ier  Captain  of  Guard  in  1st  Division. 

2ND   DIVISION. 
1ST  TEN. 

Jackson  Redding,  Captain  Robert  Biard 

\Vm.  Carpenter  Benj.  W.  Rolfe 

Henry  W.  Sanderson  Thos.  Cloward 

Bailey  Jacobs  Lisbon  Lamb 

John  Pack  Wm.  Clayton 


WILLIAM   CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 


349 


_'ND  TEN. 


John  II.  Tippets,  Captain 
Francis  T.  Whitney 
James  Stewart 
Chas.  A.  Burke 
\Ym.  McLellan 
Xorman  Taylor 

3RD   TEN 


J  .ynian  Stevens 
Lyman  Curtis 
John  S.  Gleason 
Myron  Tanner 
Kufus  Allen 


Allen  Cumpton,  Captain 
John  Byhee 
J.  Averett 
John  G.  Smith 
Philip  Garner 
l.arnabas  Lake 


l;ranklin  Allen 
David  Garner 
Harmon  D.  Persons 
Solomon  Tindal 
Chas.  Hopkins. 


4TH    TEN. 

Andrew  J.  Shoop,  Captain    Albert  Clark 


Francillo  Durfee 
Erastus  Bingriam 
Loren  Kenney 
Benj.  Roberts 
Jarvis  Johnson 


James  Hendrickson 
John  Calvert 
Daniel  Miller 
Luther  W.  Glazier 
Thos.  Bingham 


Shadrack   Roundy,   Captain   of  2nd   Division.  John 
( ileason.  Captain  of  Guard. 

The   soldiers  were  numbered  with   the  2nd   Division. 
3rd  and  4th  tens. 

Those  who  have  horses  to  ride  were  then  numbered 
and  their  duty  pointed  out,  which  is  to  lead  the  way  and 


350  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

fix  the  road  where  it  needs  it ;  look  out  camping  places ; 
drive  the  loose  cattle  and  hunt  for  the  camp.  Their 
names  are  as  follows:  John  Pack,  Captain,  Samuel  Bad- 
ham,  Francillo  Durfee,  Benj.  Roberts,  Thomas  Bing- 
ham,  James  Hendrickson.  John  Eld  ridge',  R.  I.  Redding, 
Seeley  Owens,  Barnabas  Lake,  Wm.  Bird,  Daniel  Miller, 
James  Cazier. 

WEDNESDAY,  ISiH.  We  had  a  little  rain  this  morn- 
ing and  the  air  very  cool.  We  started  at  8:00  a.  m. 
and  found  the  road  rough  indeed.  When  ascending  the 
mountain  from  Brown's  Creek,  most  of  the  teams  had  to 
double,  it  generally  requiring  six  yoke  of  oxen  to  bring 
up  an  empty  wagon.  The  descent  is  also  very  rough 
and  especially  where  the  road  crosses  the  dry  creek  which 
is  a  great  many  times.  Canyon  Creek  appeared  rougher 
than  when  we  first  went  up  it  and  it  took  till  near  night 
to  get  to  the  end  of  the  creek,  having  traveled  only  fif- 
teen and  three  quarters  miles  during  the  day. 

THURSDAY,  19rH.  We  got  started  again  about  8:00 
a.  m.,  all  except  Chas.  A.  Burke.  One  of  his  oxen  was 
missing.  Before  noon  several  of  the  loose  cattle  gave 
out  through  being  over  driven.  We  arrived  and  camped 
on  Red  Mountain  Creek  at  six  o'clock,  having  traveled 
sixteen  and  a  quarter  miles.  The  day  has  been  very  hot 
but  nights  are  very  cold. 

FRIDAY,  20TH.  Morning  very  cold.  Started  out 
at  seven  and  traveled  till  12:30,  the  day  being  cool,  then 
rested  and  baited  an  hour.  At  1  :30  proceeded  again 
and  arrived  at  Cache  or  Reddings  Cave  at  5 :00  p.  m.. 
having  traveled  twenty  and  a  half  miles,  but  it  was  nearly 
seven  o'clock  before  the  company  arrived. 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  351 

SATURDAY,  21  ST.  Started  at  7:30  a.  m.  and  trav- 
eled till  12:00  then  baited  an  hour.  We  found  Bear 
River  not  over  fifteen  inches  -deep.  We  camped  on  Sul- 
phur Creek  at  five  o'clock  having  traveled  sixteen  and 
a  half  miles  and  after  camping  I  went  with  the  brethren 
to  fill  their  tar  buckets  at  the  oil  spring.  We  followed  a 
wagon  trail  made  by  a  part  of  Hasting's  company  last 
year  about  a  mile  and  found  the  spring  situated  in  a  ra- 
vine a  little  to  the  left  of  the  road  just  at  the  edge  of  a 
high  bench  of  land.  The  ground  is  black  over  with  the 
oil  for  several  rods  but  it  is  baked  hard  by  exposure  to 
the  sun.  It  is  difficult  to  get  the  clear  oil,  most  of  it 
being  filled  with  -dust  and  gravel.  It  smells  much  like 
British  oil  and  is  said  to  do  well  for  greasing  wagons. 
John  Gleason  has  found  a  coal  bed  in  the  edge  of  the 
mountain  across  the  creek.  The  coal  looks  good  and 
burns  freely. 

STXDAY.  22xD.  Many  of  the  cattle  were  missing 
this  morning  but  after  much  search  were  found  about 
four  miles  southwest  from  camp.  We  started  at  nine 
o'clock  and  traveled  till  one,  then  halted  an  hour  at  the 
copperas  spring.  Most  of  the  wagons  halted  at  the  spring 
four  miles  back.  The  water  of  this  spring  is  not  bad, 
cattle  drink  it  freely.  At  two  o'clock  we  began  to  ascend 
the  ridge  and  at  five  formed  our  camp  near  the  Muddy 
fork  having  traveled  seventeen  and  three  quarters  miles, 
the  day  cool  and  cloudy. 

MONDAY,  23RD.  We  started  early  this  morning  and 
arrived  at  Fort  Bridger  at  one  o'clock.  We  found  the 
grass  pretty  much  eaten  off  and  only  stayed  an  hour 
and  a  half  while  some  of  the  brethren  traded  some,  then 


352  WILLIAM   CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

went  on  eight  miles  farther  and  camped  on  a  stream  two 
rods  wide,  having  traveled  twenty-one  and  a  half  miles, 
the  day  very  cool. 

TUESDAY,  24'rn.  This  morning  many  of  the  cattle 
had  strayed  several  miles  from  camp  which  prevented 
our  starting  till  eight  o'clock.  We  traveled  eight  and  a 
half  miles,  then  halted  an  hour  on  Black's  Fork.  We 
proceeded  again  and  had  a  pretty  heavy  thunder  shower 
and  arrived  at  Ham's  Fork  at  5 :20,  then  camped  for 
the  night,  having  traveled  twenty-three  miles.  Most  of 
the  wragons  did  not  arrive  till  nearly  night,  but  we  had 
no  place  to  camp  short  of  this  and  here  we  have  good 
range  for  cattle. 

WEDNESDAY,  25TH.  We  traveled  today  twenty-three 
miles  and  camped  on  Green  River.  We  found  several 
places  'where  the  road  is  shortened  some,  but  it  is  yet 
about  sixteen  miles  from  water  to  water.- 

THTRSDAY,  26xH.  Started  at  eight  o'clock  and  went 
on  to  the  Big  Sandy  and  before  the  majority  of  the  com- 
pany arrived,  E.  T.  Benson  and  escort  came  up  with 
letters  from  the  companies.  They  say  there  are  nine 
companies  between  here  and  the  Platte  with  566  wagons 
and  about  5,000  head  of  stock.  They  report  the  com- 
panies well  and  getting  along  tolerably  fast,  some  they 
expect  we  shall  meet  within  three  days.  After  eating 
they  proceeded  on.  After  sundown  a  large  party  of 
mounted  Indians  came  up,  and  camped  on  the  opposite 
side  the  river.  They  have  been  on  the  Sweet  Water 
hunting  and  are  said  to  be  of  the  Shoshone  tribe. 

FRIDAY,  2/TH.  Many  of  the  brethren  traded  sugar, 
powder,  lead,  etc.,  to  the  Indians  for  robes  and  skins 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  353 

and  meat.  We  started  soon  after  seven  and  traveled 
to  the  crossing  of  the  Big  Sandy.  Then  after  halting 
an  hour,  continued  to  the  Little  Sandy,  making  twenty- 
five  and  a  quarter  miles  today,  but  it  was  nine  o'clock 
before  some  of  the  wagons  arrived.  The  feed  is  mostly 
eaten  up  on  the  creeks  near  the  road  and  there  is  none 
except  on  the  banks  of  streams.  Bailey  Jacobs  killed  a 
large  antelope  which  is  a  matter  of  rejoicing  as  we  are 
nearly  out  of  bread  stuff  and  had  little  meat  for  several 
days.  We  started  back  from  the  valley  with  8  Ibs.  of 
flour,  9  Ibs.  of  meal  and  a  few  beans  each,  and  we  have 
to  depend  on  getting  meat  on  the  road  for  the  rest.  I 
was  told  there  were  25  Ibs.  of  flour  put  up  for  me,  but  I 
find  it  is  not  so. 

SATURDAY,  28TH.  Started  at  eight  o'clock  and  trav- 
eled till  half  past  three  before  halting  when  we  arrived 
at  the  crossing  of  the  Pacific  creek  and  halted  to  camp 
for  the  night  having  traveled  twenty-three  miles.  There 
is  no  grass  from  Little  Sandy  to  this  place  except  a  very 
little  on  Dry  Sandy  but  the  water  there  has  some  taste 
of  alkali  and  teams  do  not  like  it.  Here  there  is  con- 
siderable grass  along  the  creek  and  very  good  water  but 
no  wood  except  wild  sage.  We  had  a  heavy  thunder 
shower  about  four  o'clock  and  considerable  hail.  It  was 
dark  before  the  ox  teams  arrived.  Some  of  the  men  had 
killed  a  buffalo  a  few  miles  back,  but  it  is  very  poor. 

Si" x DAY,  29rH.  It  was  decided  to  remain  here  to- 
day to  rest  the  teams,  but  our  ten  obtained  leave  to  go 
on  to  Sweet  Water,  expecting  to  meet  the  company,  and 
after  reading  the  letter  of  instructions  from  the  coun- 
cil to  this  camp,  my  wagon  proceeded  on  slowly.  At 

24 


354  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

the  Springs,  we  saw  an  aged  Indian  squaw  near  the  road 
dwelling  in  a  shelter  composed  merely  of  wild  sage  and 
apparently  dependent  on  passing  emigrants  for  sub- 
sistence. She  is  doubtless  left  to  perish  on  account  of 
age  and  infirmity,  but  it  is  likely  she  will  live  some  time 
on  what  she  receives  from  those  who  pass  by.  When 
we  arrived  near  the  summit  of  the  dividing  ridge  or 
south  pass,  two  Indians  rode  towards  us  and  motioned 
for  us  to  stop.  Not  seeing  the  other  wagons  coming  after, 
we  stopped  to  wait  for  ihe  wagons  and  the  Indians  soon 
arrived.  They  made  signs  that  a  large  party  of  them 
were  over' the  mountain  north  and  they  wanted  to  "swap." 
\Yhile  they  were  conversing  a  number  more  rode  over 
the  ridge  and  soon  after  a  still  larger  number.  About 
this  time  the  wagons  came  in  sight  and  when  the  brethren 
saw  so  many  Indians  they  were  alarmed.  John  Pack 
rode  back  to  the  main  camp  to  get  some  of  the  brethren 
to  come  up,  but  J.  R.  said  he  would  not  budge  a  foot. 
The  brethren  behind  were  much  alarmed,  some  expect- 
ing to  be  scalped  and  one  W.  Carr  ran  and  hid  himself 
in  the  sage  bushes.  No  one  returned  with  John  Pack 
but  Norman  Taylor  and  the  wagons  proceeded  towards 
us.  In  the  meantime,  after  learning  the  object  for  which 
the  Indians  sought  us,  that  none  of  them  were  armed 
except  two,  and  by  a  certificate  that  the  first  visitor  was 
a  Shoshone  chief,  Brother  Lamb  and  myself  signified 
that  we  would  trade  with  them  and  soon  some  of  them 
returned  with  antelope,  buck  and  elk  skins  and  robes  to 
trade.  I  traded  some  balls  and  a  little  powder  for  one 
robe,  one  elk  skin,  two  buckskins  and  nine  antelope  skin? 
i'i»l  a  pair  of  moccasins.  Lamb  bought  five  antelope 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

skins.  While  we  were  trading,  the  other  wagons  ar- 
rived and  also  commenced  trading.  The  Indians,  about 
sixty  in  number,  about  twenty  of  them  boys,  all  mounted, 
seemed  highly  pleased  to  trade  with  us  which  we  did 
mostly  through  the  chief.  By  request  of  the  chief,  I 
gave  him  a  certificate  stating  that  he  appeared  friendly 
and  wanted  to  trade  with  the  whites,  etc.  The  chief 
gave  us,  a  very  strong  invitation  to  go  to  their  camp  to 
trade  and  made  signs  that  they  would  feed  us  well  and 
we  should  sleep  with  them.  I  answered  him  by  signs 
that  we  should  camp  when  we  arrived  where  the  road 
crossed  the  Sweet  Water  but  they  were  very  anxious  to 
have  us  then  turn  off  the  road  and  camp.  After  we 
started,  the  chief  came  up  and  wanted  to  swap  a  good 
mule  for  my  spy  glass  but  I  refused.  I  had  let  him  look 
through  it  and  he  seemed  very  wishful  to  try  it.  When 
they  saw  we  were  determined  to  go  on,  they  left  us  and 
returned  to  their  camp  while  we  pursued  our  journey  to 
the  first  crossing  of  Sweet  Water  where  we  arrived  and 
camped  at  six  o'clock,  having  traveled  fourteen  miles. 

MONDAY,  30rH.  This  morning  the  cattle  belonging 
to  the  camp  behind  came  to  us  early,  having  strayed 
away.  John  Pack  and  Bailey  Jacobs  went  to  drive  them 
back  and  to  trade  some  with  the  Indians.  We  calcu- 
lated to  go  on  about  eleven  miles  but  before  we  started. 
Father  Eldridge  came  up  with  his  wagon  and  said  he 
expected  Spencer's  1st  50  company  up  soon.  Wre  then 
concluded  to  stay  here  until  they  arrived  and  about  three 
o'clock,  their  wagons  began  to  cross  the  creek.  I  was 
glad  to  find  Aaron  and  Loren  Farr,  and  William  Walker 
in  this  company  with  their  families  all  well  and  in  good 


356  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

spirits.  From  Sister  Olivia,  I  received  some  articles 
sent  by  my  family  which  were  very  acceptable  indeed  and 
made  me  feel  grateful.  This  company  all  appear  well 
and  cheerful  and  are  not  much  troubled  on  account  of 
lack  of  teams.  I  spent  the  evening  with  Loren  and  their 
families.  The  balance  of  our  camp  arrived  before  dark. 

TUESDAY,  31sr.  Our  camp  except  this  ten  has  started 
on,  but  Brother  Spencer  has  concluded  to  halt  here  to- 
day and  I  spent  the  day  copying  tables  of  distances  for 
Loren  and  also  gave  him  a  plot  of  the  city. 

WEDNESDAY,  SEPTEMBER  IST.  We  bid  farewell  to 
Brother  Spencer's  company  and  proceeded  on.  After 
traveling  about  a  mile,  we  met  P.  P.  Pratt  going  to  see 
Brother  Spencer  and  to  get  some  cattle.  He  says  some  of 
the  back  companies  have  lost  many  head  and  can  scarcely 
move.  A  few  miles  farther  we  met  the  2nd  50  of  Spencer's 
company.  We  traveled  till  nearly  dark  and  camped  with 
the  returning  pioneers  at  the  cold  spring,  having  trav- 
eled twenty-two  and  a  quarter  miles.  The  day  fine  and 
pleasant.  We  find  the  grass  pretty  much  eaten  off  all 
the  way.  John  G.  Smith  was  appointed  captain  of  the 
2nd  division  in  place  of  Shadrach  Roundy  who  returns. 

THURSDAY,  2ND.  Started  about  eight  o'clock  and 
•after  traveling  two  miles  passed  Russell's  company  of 
50  and  about  five  miles  farther  we  passed  Elder  Rich's 
50  and  G.  B.  Wallace's  50.  They  all  agree  to  the  health 
and  prosperity  of  their  companies  but  have  lost  many 
cattle  and  have  had  hard  work  to  get  along.  We  passed 
Captains  Foutz  and  Hone  on  this  long  drive  with  their 
companies  all  well,  but  complaining  much  for  lack  of 
teams.  I  conversed  some  with  Edward  Hunter  and  Elder 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

Taylor.  Brother  Hunter  will  give  cash  for  some  cattle  if 
he  can  buy  them.  We  arrived  on  Sweet  Water  at  six 
o'clock  but  the  ox  teams  did  not  get  in  till  eight  o'clock, 
having  traveled  twenty-four  and  a  half  miles.  The  even- 
ning  was  very  cold,  windy  and  like  for  rain.  Brother 
Roundy  returned  back  to  the  valley  this  morning,  having 
met  his  family. 

FRIDAY,  3RD.  We  started  on  this  morning  follow- 
ing the  new  road  at  the  north  side  of  the  Sweet  Water, 
the  road  sandy  in  places  but  much  better  than  the  old 
road.  After  traveling  about  two  miles,  we  saw  a  lone 
buffalo  about  two  miles  to  the  south.  John  Pack  and 
Lisbon  Lamb  went  to  try  to  kill  him  and  finally  suc- 
ceeded, on  which  our  ten  halted  and  sent  back  a  wagon 
for  the  meat  which  detained  us  about  three  hours,  after 
which  we  proceeded  again.  A  little  before  the  road  fords 
the  river  the  second  time,  there  is  an  alkali  lake  a  little 
north  from  the  road.  We  joined  the  company  and  also 
met  J.  B.  Noble's  company  where  the  road  joins  the  old 
one  again.  Brother  Noble's  company  are  all  well  and 
not  so  bad  off  for  teams  as  some  of  the  other  companies. 
We  proceeded  on  a  few  miles  farther  and  met  J.  M.  Grant 
with  Willard  Snow's  50  which  is  the  last  company  on 
the  road.  Brother  Grant  had  a  child  die  last  night  and 
his  wife  is  yet  very  sick  and  not  much  expected  to  re- 
cover. This  company  have  lost  many  cattle  and  are  so 
bad  off  for  teams  as  not  to  be  able  to  travel  more  than 
ten  miles  a  day  which  would  make  it  some  day  in  Octo- 
ber before  they  get  'through.  We  went  on  nearly  two 
miles  farther,  then  camped  for  the  night  near  Bitter  Cot- 
tonwood  creek,  having  traveled  fifteen  and  three  quarters 


358  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

miles.  Most  of  the  company  camped  back  with  Brother 
Snow's  Company. 

SATURDAY,  4TH.  We  started  late  this  morning  and 
traveled  over  a  very  sandy  road  till  five  o'clock,  then 
camped  on  Ravine  Creek,  having  traveled  sixteen  miles. 

SUNDAY,  STH.  There  being  alkali  springs  near,  we 
concluded  to  go  to  Independence  Rock  at  which  place 
we  arrived  about  three  o'clock  having  traveled  twelve  and 
a  half  miles.  Soon  after  we  camped,  Lamb  and  Jacob 
Cloward  went  to  chase  some  buffalo  and  succeeded  in 
killing  one.  I  walked  over  the  rock  and  had  some  solemn 
meditations  and  felt  to  humble  myself  and  call  upon  the 
Lord  for  myself  and  family,  for  this  company,  the  twelve 
and  all  the  companies  on  the  road.  Experience  has  taught 
me  many  maxims  of  late  and  I  intend  to  profit  by  them. 
Be  not  hasty  to  promise,  lest  thy  promise  be  considered 
worthless.  Make  not  many  promises  without  reflection, 
lest  thou  fail  to  fulfill  them  and  it  dampen  the  confidence 
of  thy  friend.  If  thou  promise  many  things  and  regard 
not  to  fulfill  them  and  it  damp  the  confidence  of  thy 
friend,  then  be  assured  that  thy  friends  will  despise  thy 
promises  and  have  no  dependence  in  them.  Seek  not  to 
speculate  out  of  a  good  brother. 

MONDAY,  6xH.  This  morning  the  cattle  were  found 
down  the  Sweet  Water  about  six  miles  from  camp  which 
made  it  late  before  we  started.  While  passing  the  alkali 
lakes,  a  number  of  the  brethren  filled  the  bags  with 
saleratus.  We  found  the  road  very  sandy  to  Grease- 
wood  Creek  and  after  that  it  was  somewhat  better. 
About  three  o'clock  the  wind  began  to  blow  very  strong 
and  cold  and  we  had  heavy  rain  for  about  two  hours. 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  359 

We  proceeded  on  and  arrived  at  the  Willow  Spring  a 
little  before  dark  in  the  midst  of  a  heavy  shower  of 
rain.  Thomas  Cloward  left  one  of  the  old  oxen  sent 
back  by  Wallace  on  the  road.  It  died  before  morning. 
All  except  our  ten  and  William's  stayed  back  at  Grease- 
wood  Creek.  We  tried  in  vain  to  make  a  fire  but  finally 
went  to  bed  wet  and  cold,  having  eaten  nothing  since 
morning.  Some  of  the  teamsters  have  only  a  light  sum- 
mer coat  with  them  and  they  suffer  considerably.  We 
traveled  twenty-one  and  a  half  miles  today. 

TUESDAY,  7'ni.  This  morning  our  cattle  were  all 
missing  and  it  still  rains  and  snows  very  heavily.  Pack 
and  T.  Cloward  started  early  on  foot  to  hunt  the  cattle 
but  after  following  them  over  seven  miles  in  the  storm 
and  seeing  that  they  had  kept  on  the  road  towards  the 
Platte  river,  they  returned  to  camp.  It  rained  and  snowed 
heavily  till  eleven  o'clock  at  which  time  the  balance  of 
the  camp  arrived.  John  Pack  asked  the  company  to  let 
us  have  some  of  their  loose  cattle  to  bring  on  our  wagons 
till  we  overtook  ours  again,  but  the  captains  both  gener- 
ously refused  for  some  cause  or  other.  However,  some 
of  the  brethren  took  their  cattle  out  of  their  teams  and 
let  us  have  them  and  we  moved  onward.  After  travel- 
ing about  thirteen  miles  we  saw  our  cattle  about  four 
miles  to  the  left  of  the  road  at  the  foot  of  a  mountain. 
We  halted  and  Lamb  took  one  of  the  mules  to  fetch  the 
cattle  to  the  road.  Soon  after  Pack  and  Jackson  Redding 
came  up  and  learning  that  we  had  found  the  cattle,  they 
started  to  them  to  drive  them  to  camp  and  Lamb  being 
relieved,  returned  to  the  wagon.  We  harnessed  up  and 
arrived  at  the  mineral  spring  about  six  o'clock,  having 


360  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

traveled  sixteen  and  a  quarter  miles.  This  spring  has 
been  represented  as  poisonous  but  if  it  is  so,  it  must  be 
in  consequence  of  minerals  under  the  water.  The  water 
has  no  bad  taste  till  the  cattle  trample  in  it.  It  then  be- 
comes almost  black  as  ink  and  this  is  probably  what 
makes  it  poisonous. 

WEDNESDAY,  STH.  We  started  at  eight  o'clock  and 
arrived  at  the  Upper  Platte  ferry  soon  after  twelve 
o'clock.  We  found  N.  Jacobs  and  company  there  hunt- 
ing. We  forded  the  river  and  found  it  about  two  feet 
deep  in  the  channel.  We  halted  on  the  banks  about  two 
hours  at  which  time  the  whole  camp  arrived.  We  then 
proceeded  on.  The  main  company  went  about  five  miles 
but  we  went  till  we  found  a  good  camping  place  in  a 
grove  of  timber  on  the  banks  of  the  river  where  the  road 
runs  through,  then  halted  for  night,  having  traveled 
nineteen  miles. 

THURSDAY,  9TH.  This  morning  Norton  Jacob's  com- 
pany joined  us  at  eight  o'clock  and  we  moved  forward. 
Found  the  road  rough,  it  being  cut  up  by  the  other  com- 
panies in  wet  weather.  We  arrived  on  Deer  Creek  about 
sundown  and  camped  for  the  night,  having  traveled 
twenty-two  and  a  quarter  miles.  The  day  fine  and  very 
pleasant.  Joseph  Hancock  killed  an  elk  which  the  breth- 
ren packed  to  camp  on  horseback  about  sixteen  miles. 

FRIDAY,  K)TH.  We  have  had  a  strong  southwest 
wind  all  night  and  the  morning  is  somewhat  cool.  We 
started  a  little  before  eight  o'clock  and  had  good  travel- 
ing. We  saw  many  herds  of  buffalo  but  the  hunters  did 
not  get  any  while  passing.  We  arrived  at  the  river  A 
La  Perle  at  three  o'clock  and  camped  for  the  night  hav- 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  361 

ing  traveled  seventeen  and  a  half  miles.  A  while  before 
dark,  some  of  the  men  came  in  with  a  part  of  a  buffalo 
which  they  killed.  Lewis  Barney  also  killed  a  young  one 
which  was  considerably  fat.  The  meat  was  all  packed 
in  on  horses.  One  of  the  men  killed  a  wolf  out  of  which 
we  got  considerable  grease'  for  the  wagons.  It  was  de- 
cided to  have  a  guard  each  night  the  remainder  of  the 
journey,  every  man  to  stand  in  his  turn,  four  each  night. 

SATURDAY,  HTH.  Got  up  at  twelve  o'clock  and 
stood  guard  till  daylight.  The  morning  very  fine  and 
pleasant.  Three  of  the  brethren  arrived  from  the  camp 
back  and  said  that  during  the  night  before  last  the  Indians 
had  stolen  sixteen  or  seventeen  of  their  horses  and  they 
were  in  pursuit  of  them.  We  were  detained  some  on 
account  of  several  of  the  horses  having  rambled  off,  but 
about  nine  o'clock  we  started  on  and  traveled  to  the  La 
Bonte  River,  distance  nineteen  and  a  half  miles.  There 
are  many  buffalo  around  here  also  and  although  we  have 
plenty  of  meat,  the  brethren  continue  to  kill  them.  We 
find  the  feed  eaten  off  bare  almost  every  place  we  come 
to  and  it  is  difficult  to  find  grass  to  sustain  our  teams. 

SUNDAY,  12TH.  We  traveled  this  day  seventeen  and 
three  quarters  miles  and  camped  by  Heber's  Spring  on 
Horseshoe  Creek.  We  found  the  spring  had  ceased  run- 
ning but  there  was  water  in  the  creek  a  little  north.  The 
roadometer  has  broken  down  today  over  the  same  ground 
it  broke  as  we  went  west.  Our  bread  stuff  is  now  out 
and  we  have  to  live  solely  on  meat  the  balance  of  the 
journey.  John  Pack  has  got  flour  enough  to  last  him 
through.  We  have  all  messed  together  until  ours  was 
eaten,  and  now  John  Pack  proposes  for  each  man  to  mess 


362  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

by  himself.  He  has  concealed  his  flour  and  beans  to- 
gether with  tea,  coffee,  sugar,  etc.,  and  cooks  after  the 
rest  have  gone  to  bed.  Such  things  seem  worthy  of  re- 
membrance for  a  time  to  come. 

MONDAY,  13TH.  We  fixed  the  roadometer  this 
morning,  then  traveled  to  Dead  Timber  Creek,  distance 
fifteen  miles.  Here  we  find  good  feed  and  plenty  of 
wood  and  \vater. 

TUESDAY,  14-m.  Started  at  nine  o'clock  and  trav- 
eled till  about  five,  then  camped  on  the  Platte  River,  hav- 
ing traveled  twenty-four  and  a  quarter  miles.  In  conse- 
quence of  some  things  which  have  passed  and  some  which 
at  present  exist,  I  have  concluded  to  go  on  as  fast  as  cir- 
cumstances will  permit  to  Winter  Quarters  and  I  intend 
to  start  tomorrow.  Some  have  opposed  it,  but  not  with 
a  good  grace.  However.  I  have  no  fears  that  the  coun- 
cil will  censure  me  when  they  know  the  cause.  If  they 
do,  I  will  bear  the  censure  in  preference  to  what  I  now 
bear.  Before  dark  Luke  Johnson,  William  A.  Empey 
and  Appleton  Harmon  came  up  from  Laramie,  having 
learned  from  an  Indian  that  wagons  were  near.  They 
say  that  a  party  of  Sioux  warriors  have  got  the  breth- 
ren's horses,  seventeen  in  number,  on  the  Raw  Hide, 
about  eighteen  miles  north.  They  say  that  about  fifty 
armed  men  might  go  and  probably  get  them,  but  not 
fewer.  The  Sioux  are  at  war  with  the  Crows  and 
Pawnees  and  reports  say  that  there  is  a  large  party  of 
the  Pawnees  a  little  down  the  river. 

WEDNESDAY,  ISrii.  We  started  a  little  after  eight, 
forded  the  Platte  without  any  difficulty  and  at  three 
o'clock  concluded  to  stop  for  the  night,  having  traveled 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  363 

twenty-one  and  a  quarter  miles  over  very  sandy  road. 
The  ox  teams  have  kept  nearly  up  with  us  and  it  is  evi- 
dent they  intend  to  keep  with  us  or  kill  their  teams,  and 
being  aware  that  if  the  teams  are  injured  we  shall  be 
blamed  for  it,  we  have  given  up  going  ahead  to  save  the 
teams. 

THURSDAY,  16xH.  Today  we  traveled  nineteen  and 
a  half  miles  over  good  road  and  camped  near  the  river 
amongst  good  grass. 

FRIDAY,  I/TH.  This  morning  Thomas  Brown,  Ezra 
Beckstead,  Mathew  \Yelch,  Benjamin  Roberts,  David 
Perkins  and  William  Bird,  started  to  go  through  to 
Winter  Quarters  in  consequence  of  having  no  bread.  We 
traveled  nineteen  and  three  quarters  miles  and  camped 
again  on  the  Platte.  The  road  very  good. 

SATURDAY,  18TH.  Last  night  John  Pack's  gray  horse 
was  stolen  from  his  wagon.  He  lays  it  to  the  brethren 
ahead  and  \vith  Norton  Jacobs  and  Joseph  Hancock  has 
heaped  a  pretty  long  string  of  severe  abusive  language 
on  them  which  I  consider  to  be  premature,  unjustifiable 
and  wicked.  Two  Frenchmen  came  to  the  camp  and 
said  they  were  camped  below  on  a  trading  excursion 
among  the  Sioux.  Inasmuch  as  some  of  the  brethren 
wanted  to  trade  with  them,  it  was  concluded  to  move 
down  opposite  to  them.  We  accordingly  traveled  four 
and  a  quarter  miles  then  again  camped  on  the  banks  of 
the  river  and  the  brethren  bought  a  number  of  buffalo 
robes,  etc.  Norton  Jacobs  bought  five  robes  for  seven 
common  calico  shirts. 

SUNDAY,  19xH.  The  traders  say  they  will  move 
down  the  river  today  to  where  there  are  plenty  of  buf- 


364  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

falo.  Our  camp  also  traveled  ten  and  three  quarters 
miles. and  camped  a  little  below  Chimney  Rock.  There 
are  many  herds  of  buffalo  around  and  Lewis  Barney 
killed  one  which  Will  give  us  a  little  fresh  meat.  The 
weather  has  been  very  fine  and  warm  for  some  days 
past.  This  evening  there  are  some  signs  of  stormy 
weather. 

MONDAY,  20m.  Today  we  traveled  seven  and  a 
quarter  miles,  the  day  very  hot.  We  turned  off  the  road 
to  camp  at  Rubidoos'  request  while  they  killed  some  buf- 
falo. They  gave  us  some  very  nice  meat. 

TUESDAY,  21  ST.  We  have  concluded  to  wait  here 
until  the  balance  of  the  company  arrives.  Afternoon 
went  over  the  river  and  had  a  good  feast  on  buffalo  ribs 
with  the  Frenchmen.  The  victuals  were  cooked  by  a 
squaw  but  looked  much  cleaner  than  our  men  cook  it. 
Evening  it  became  cloudy  and  soon  followed  by  cold 
rain  which  continued  till  two  o'clock. 

WEDNESDAY,  22ND.  At  one  o'clock,  I  got  up  to 
stand  guard  and  found  the  night  extremely  cold  and  un- 
pleasant on  account  of  rain.  The  morning  is  cloudy  and 
cold.  The  wagons  have  not  yet  come  in  sight  which 
makes  us  think  there  is  something  the  matter  with  them. 

THURSDAY,  23RD.  Today  Jackson  Redding  and 
Sanderson  went  back  to  see  if  they  could  see  the  other 
wagons.  They  returned  at  night  and  said  the  company 
were  within  a  few  miles  having  been  detained  at  Laramie 
to  recover  their  horses,  most  of  which  they  got.  They 
state  that  news  has  come  to  the  fort  by  a  Sioux  Indian 
that  the  twelve  and  their  company  had  all  their  horses 
stolen  at  the  Pacific  Springs  during  a  snow  storm.  The 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  365 

Sioux  stole  them  supposing  them  to  belong  to  the  Sho- 
shones.  The  man  that  brought  the  news  stole  seventeen 
but  lost  eight  in  the  mountains,  the  remainder  he  brought 
to  Laramie  and  the  brethren  there  knew  some  of  them 
and  demanded  them.  He  gave  them  up,  at  least  all  they 
could  prove  and  four  of  the  brethren  started  with  them  to 
meet  the  twelve.  The  Indian  says  there  were  nine  of 
them  who  stole  the  horses. 

FRIDAY,  24xH.  We  resumed  our  journey  this  morn- 
ing and  traveled  thirteen  and  a  half  miles,  then  camped 
where  the  road  runs  close  to  the  river.  The  weather  is 
again  fine  and  hot  in  the  day  time  but  the  nights  are  cold 
and  frosty.  Joseph  Hancock  killed  a  buffalo  cow  and 
John  Norton  an  antelope  which  will  supply  the  company 
with  a  little  meat  each,  most  of  whom  are  without. 

SATURDAY,  25xn.  The  day  cloudy  and  some  like 
for  a  storm.  We  made  an  early  start  and  traveled  to 
Crab  Creek,  distance  twenty  and  a  quarter  miles  then 
camped  for  the  night.  The  land  on  both  sides  the  river 
is  literally  spotted  with  vast  herds  of  buffalo,  but  oui 
hunters  are  not  very  lucky  as  yet.  From  the  fact  of 
there  being  so  many  buffalo  in  this  region,  we  are  in- 
clined to  believe  we  shall  see  but  few  lower  down  and 
this  is  probably  the  best  chance  we  will  have  to  lay  in  a 
supply  to  last  us  home.  During  the  afternoon,  Joseph 
Hancock  killed  a  buffalo  cow  and  Captain  Rappleyee 
sent  a  wagon  to  fetch  the  meat  to  camp.  When  it  arrived 
John  Pack  took  the  hind  quarters  and  the  best  meat  off 
the  rest  of  the  cow,  together  with  all  the  tallow,  then 
sent  for  Rappleyee  to  take  what  he  had  left  and  divide  it 
amongst  the  company.  When  Rappleyee  saw  what  he  had 


366  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

done,  he  felt  angry  and  Pack  and  he  had  some  high  words 
on  the  subject.  Brother  Pack's  conduct  has  caused  many 
unpleasant  feelings  against  him  among  the  brethren.  He 
takes  all  the  tallow  he  can  lay  his  hands  on,  and  all  the 
best  meat  and  has  now  got  more  than  will  serve  him 
home  while  many  of  the  rest  have  scarcely  any  and  that 
of  the  poorest  pieces.  He  has  plenty  of  flour,  meal, 
beans,  tea,  coffee,  sugar,  etc.,  while  most  of  the  camp 
are  destitute  of  everything  but  meat,  and  while  he  con- 
tinues to  take  the  tallow  and  best  of  the  meat  there  will 
be  hard  feelings  against  him.  He  has  disgraced  himself 
in  the  estimation  of  many  within  the  past  few  days.  I 
do  not  think  I  can  ever  forget  him  for  his  treatment 
of  me,  but  I  cherish  no  malice  nor  feelings  of  revenge, 
but  I  hope  and  pray  that  I  may  forever  have  wisdom  to 
keep  from  under  his  power.  There  have  been  six  or 
eight  buffalo  killed  by  the  camp  and  it  is  intended  to  stay 
here  tomorrow  and  try  to  get  meat  to  last  us  through  as 
it  is  not  likely  we  shall  have  another  privilege  as  good  as 
this.  Most  of  the  camp  now  begin  to  feel  that  it  is  ne- 
cessary for  us  to  make  our  way  home  as  fast  as  possible 
to  save  our  teams  and  escape  the  cold  rain  and  snow- 
storms. 

SUNDAY,  26TH.  Many  of  the  brethren  are  gone  out 
hunting.  The  weather  continues  fine  and  warm.  In  the 
afternoon  we  had  a  strong  northwest  wind.  During  the 
day  the  second  division  killed  more  than  enough  meat  to 
last  them  home,  but  were  totally  unwilling  to  let  the 
first  division  have  any  although  they  killed  none,  not 
having  but  two  or  three  guns  in  the  division.  This  also 
has  tended  to  increase  the  feeling  of  envy  and  bitterness 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  367 

which  already  exists  too  much.  Thomas  Cloward  has 
manifested  feelings  and  conduct  worse  than  the  general 
run  of  gentiles  and  unworthy  of  a  saint.  He  seems  to 
have  drunk  into  Pack's  spirit  for  they  act  very  much 
alike. 

MONDAY,  2?TH.  Those  of  the  first  division  who 
have  no  meat  have  concluded  to  move  on  a  few  miles  to 
where  there  are  more  buffalo  as  they  have  mostly  left 
here,  but  the  second  division  will  not  move  till  they  have 
dried  their  meat  some.  We  went  on  three  miles  and 
then  camped  where  there  are  plenty  of  buffalo  over  the 
river.  Lisbon  Lamb,  Lewis  Barney  and  John  Norton 
volunteered  to  go  and  kill  what  meat  they  can  for  those 
who  have  none.  They  have  got  enough  to  last  them 
through.  It  is  said  that  our  coming  down  here  has  given 
feelings  but  it  is  plain  and  evident  that  there  are  several 
men  who  will  find  fault  and  deal  out  wholesale  censure 
whatever  is  done,  and  for  my  part  I  shall  remember  John 
Pack,  Thomas  Cloward,  Norton  Jacobs  and  Joseph  Han- 
cock for  some  time  to  come.  Such  little,  selfish,  unmanly 
conduct  as  has  been  manifested  by  them,  is  rarely  ex- 
hibited except  by  the  meanest  classes  of  society.  A 
man  who  will  openly  and  boldly  steal  is  honorable  when 
compared  with  some  of  their  underhanded  conduct.  Dur- 
ing the  day  the  brethren  killed  five  cows  and  one  bull 
which  are  considered  sufficient  to  last  the  first  division 
home. 

TUESDAY,  28-m.  We  waited  till  after  nine  o'clock 
for  the  second  division  to  come  up  but  not  being  yet 
in  sight  we  moved  onward,  traveled  seventeen  and  a  half 
miles,  then  camped  on  Sand  Hill  Creek  about  a  mile 
from  the  river.  We  have  seen  more  buffalo  today  than 


368  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

I  ever  saw  in  one  day,  supposed  to  be  not  less  than  200,- 
000.  We  had  some  trouble  to  make  a  road  through  them 
safely.  We  also  saw  two  horses  with  the  herd.  Jack- 
son Redding  went  to  try  and  catch  them  but  found  them 
perfectly  wild. 

WEDNESDAY,  29TH.  We  got  an  early  start  this  morn- 
ing and  traveled  till  four  o'clock,  distance  twenty  and 
a  quarter  miles.  We  camped  near  the  river  in  high 
grass.  The  road  has  run  close  to  the  river  all  day  except 
a  few  miles  beyond  Castle  Creek  and  although  the  ground 
is  perfectly  dry,  it  is  very  rough,  it  having  been  cut  up 
in  wet  weather.  Watch  and  Wolfe  Creeks  had  abund- 
ance of  water  in  them,  as  much  as  when  we  went  up. 
Castle  River  was  about  a  foot  deep.  We  have  not  seen 
many  buffalo  today  but  after  we  camped,  John  Norton 
shot  two  at  one  shot.  L.  Barney  also  killed  a  young  cow. 
The  weather  is  yet  fine  and  very  warm. 

THURSDAY,  30xn.  This  day  we  traveled  only  six- 
teen and  a  quarter  miles,  then  camped  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
east  of  Rattlesnake  Creek  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  In 
this  creek,  there  is  still  a  very  heavy  current  of  water 
running.  It  appears  that  some  of  the  brethren  left  their 
fires  burning  this  morning  and  the  prairie  has  caught 
fire  and  is  still  burning  furiously. 

FRIDAY,  OCTOBER  IST.  This  morning  I  wrote  a  short 
letter  and  left  it  in  a  post  for  the  company  behind.  We 
traveled  twenty  miles  and  camped  on  Bluff  Creek.  The 
day  fine  and  very  warm. 

SATURDAY,  2ND.  This  morning  we  calculated  to 
travel  eleven  miles,  but  on  arriving  at  the  North  Bluff 
fork,  we  found  no  grass  and  were  compelled  to  continue 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  369 

on.  We  traveled  till  the  road  strikes  the  river  and  some 
grass,  then  camped,  having  traveled  eighteen  and  a  half 
miles.  Three  buffalo  have  been  killed  today  and  there 
are  considerable  in  this  region.  Two  of  the  oxen  gave 
out  and  had  to  be  left  on  the  road. 

SUNDAY,  SRD.  This  morning  we  traveled  four  and 
a  quarter  miles,  then  camped  opposite  some  islands  where 
there  is  pretty  good  feed  and  willows.  The  day  has 
been  exceedingly  warm  and  the  brethren  have  dried  a 
good  quantity  of  meat.  Considerable  anxiety  and  feel- 
ing has  originated  in  the  breasts  of  two  or  three  brethren 
in  consequence  of  a  rumor  being  circulated  which  deeply 
concerns  one  individual  but  it  is  not  known  whom.  In 
the  evening,  a  strong  north  wind  blew  up  which  made 
it  turn  very  cool. 

MONDAY,  4TH.  Cool  and  pleasant.  We  traveled 
twenty  and  three  quarters  miles  and  found  that  the  last 
company  have  made  a  new  road  near  the  bluffs  to  avoid 
a  very  bad  slough.  We  went  a  little  on  the  old  road  and 
.then  struck  across  to  the  new  road  but  had  considerable 
difficulty  in  crossing  the  slough.  We  camped  beside  a 
small  lake  of  not  very  good  water  and  several  miles 
from  timber. 

TUESDAY,  STH.  Pleasant  day.  We  traveled  nine- 
teen miles,  then  turned  off  the  road  about  a  half  a  mile 
to  camp  near  a  small  bunch  of  timber.  The  brethren 
have  killed  a  good  many  buffalo  today.  They  are  very 
plentiful  here,  and  wolves  abundant. 

WEDNESDAY,  6xH.  The  largest  part  of  the  company 
again  concluded  to  tarry  a  day  again  although  there  is 
little  feed  here.  Some  determined  to  go  on  a  piece  and 


370  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

amongst  the  rest,  I  felt  more  willing  to  go  on  than  to 
tarry.  Accordingly  eleven  wagons  started,  viz.  Jackson 
Redding,  William  A.  Empey,  Lewis  Barney,  Roswel 
Stevens,  Cummings,  Joseph  Hancock,  H.  W.  Sander- 
son, John  Pack,  Thos.  Cloward,  Zebedee  Coltrin  and 
Norton  Jacobs.  We  traveled  seventeen  and  a  half  miles 
and  then  turned  off  the  road  about  a  half  a  mile  to 
camp. 

THURSDAY,  7xn.  We  started  a  little  before  10:CO 
a.  m.  and  traveled  till  nearly  dark  and  had  then  to  run 
over  a  mile  from  the  road  to  camp.  We  traveled  nine- 
teen and  a  quarter  miles.  Wind  very  strong  from  the 
north  and  a  very  cold  day. 

FRIDAY,  STH.  Just  as  we  started  this  morning, 
twelve  or  fifteen  Indians  were  seen  running  over  the 
river  towards  us.  They  soon  came  up  to  the  wagons 
which  were  somewhat  scattered  and  although  they  shook 
hands,  they  showed  savage  hostility.  Four  of  the  oxen 
were  not  yet  yoked  up ;  these  they  drove  off  from  the 
wagons  which  now  began  to  draw  together.  They  soon 
satisfied  us  that  they  were  bent  on  robbing  us  and  with- 
out ceremony  took  Jack  Redding's  horse  from  behind  the 
wagon.  Lamb  went  to  take  it  from  them  and  seized  the 
lariat  which  another  immediately  cut  with  his  knife.  Lamb 
then  got  on  the  horse,  but  no  sooner  on  than  two  Indians 
pulled  him  off  and  marched  off  with  the  horse.  They 
stole  Jack  Redding's  knife  out  of  its  sheath  and  one 
from  John  Pack.  They  also  tried  to  get  Jack  off  the 
horse  he  was  riding,  but  he  kept  his  seat.  They  tried 
Skeen's  horse  but  he  kicked  one  of  them  over.  The  In- 
dians then  tried  to  get  the  men  out  of  their  wagons  so 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  371 

that  they  might  get  in  and  plunder,  but  every  man  kept 
in  his  wagon  to  guard  it  and  we  concluded  to  turn  about 
and  go  back  to  the  company.  We  accordingly  started 
and  the  Indians  turned  back  towards  the  timber  with 
the  horse,  four  oxen,  two  knives  and  a  sack  of  salt.  After 
traveling  back  about  six  miles,  we  met  the  company,  told 
the  story  and  bore  their  slang  and  insults  without  saying 
much,  but  not  without  thinking  a  great  deal.  The  whole 
company  were  then  formed  in  two  lines.  All  the  arms 
were  loaded  and  each  man  that  could  raise  a  gun  was 
ordered  to  walk  beskle  the  wagons,  the  horsemen  to  go 
ahead.  We  then  proceeded  on  and  when  we  came  opposite 
to  where  we  met  with  the  Indians,  the  horsemen  went 
down  and  found  the  oxen  where  we  left  them.  They 
brought  them  and  we  traveled  till  dark,  then  camped 
near  the  river,  having  traveled  five  and  a  quarter  miles 
from  last  night,  exclusive  of  the  distance  we  went  back. 
A  strong  guard  was  placed  around  the  cattle  and  camp 
and  kept  up  through  the  night.  Many  hard  speeches 
have  passed  among  the  brethren,  such  as  "damned  hypo- 
crites," "damned  liars,"  "mutineers,"  etc.,  and  most  of 
those  who  started  ahead  are  ordered  to  travel  in  the  rear 
all  the  time.  This  savage,  tyrannical  conduct  was  one 
thing  which  induced  some  to  leave  and  undertake  to  go 
through  alone  and  more  peaceably  and  it  will  still  leave 
feelings  of  revenge  and  hatred  which  will  require  some 
time  to  cover  up.  Young  Babcock  shook  his  fist  in  Ze- 
bedee  Coltrin's  face  and  damned  him  and  said  he  could 
whip  him.  For  my  part,  I  shall  be  glad  when  I  get  in 
more  peaceable  society,  and  I  think  I  shall  not  easily  be 
caught  in  such  a  scrape  again. 


372  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

SATURDAY,  9xn.  We  have  had  no  disturbance  from 
Indians.  We  started  at  six  o'clock  and  went  on  five 
miles  to  get  better  feed.  We  then  halted  for  breakfast. 
The  remainder  of  the  day's  travel  was  mostly  over  dog 
towns.  A  United  States  soldier  came  up  to  the  wagons 
and  went  with  us  a  few  miles.  He  says  there  are  ninety 
of  them  on  the  island  surveying  and  looking  out  a  place 
to  build  a  fort.  We  traveled  seventeen  and  a  quarter 
miles  today,  then  camped  near  a  low  bench  of  land  where 
there  is  plenty  of  grass  and  water  and  willows  for  fuel. 
A  number  of  the  soldiers  came  over  to  camp.  They  say 
the  Pawnees  are  perfectly  enraged  and  savage  and  that 
the  worst  band  of  between  four  and  five  hundred  are 
on  the  north  side  the  Platte  about  forty  miles  below. 

SUNDAY,  lOrn.  Morning  fine  but  cold  wind.  The 
captains  called  the  camp  together  and  asked  whether  we 
shall  wait  here  three  days  or  a  week  for  the  twelve,  or 
shall  we  continue  on  to  Winter  Quarters.  Thirty  men 
voted  to  go  on,  seventeen  voted  to  wait  and  the  remainder 
did  not  vote.  The  majority  having  voted  to  go  on,  we 
started  and  traveled  very  slowly  till  about  five  o'clock, 
then  turned  off  to  the  river  to  camp,  having  traveled  six- 
teen miles.  There  are  many  new  tracks  of  Indians  on 
the  sand  bar,  but  we  have  seen  none  today. 

MONDAY,  HTH.  Morning,  cloudy  and  cold.  We 
have  had  a  little  very  cold  rain  and  there  is  great  appear- 
ance for  more.  We  started  on  but  it  continued  to  rain 
heavily  till  near  noon.  The  afternoon  was  fair  but  very 
cold.  We  traveled  twenty-one  and  a  quarter  miles  and 
camped  amongst  high  grass  close  to  timber.  There  is 
every  chance  for  Indians  tonight  if  any  are  near.  The 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  373 

camp  in  general  are  much  dissatisfied  with  the  camping 
place. 

TUESDAY,  12xH.  This  morning  the  weather  was 
severely  cold  with  strong-  wind.  Some  of  the  cattle  were 
missing  and  the  owners  not  going  to  hunt  them  till  the 
rest  were  ready  to  start  on,  we  were  detained  till  eleven 
o'clock  and  then  proceeded.  We  found  plenty  of  water 
in  Wood  River  but  did  not  lose  much  time  crossing.  We' 
took  one  of  the  late  wagon  trails  and  arrived  on  Prairie 
Creek  a  little  before  sundown,  having  traveled  fifteen 
and  three  quarters  miles.  We  have  seen  no  Indians  yet 
and  all  goes  well  but  the  cold  weather. 

WEDNESDAY,  13xn.  Morning  very  cold  indeed  with 
strong  northwest  wind.  We  found  the  creek  difficult  to 
cross,  it  being  soft  and  miry,  but  all  soon  got  over  safely 
and  we  proceeded  on.  The  road  is  sandy  about  five  or 
six  miles  on  the  bluffs  and  very  crooked  all  the  way. 
We  arrived  and  camped  on  the  Loup  Fork  at  dark,  hav- 
ing traveled  twenty-one  and  three  quarters  miles.  The 
day  has  been  excessively  cold. 

THURSDAY,  14-TH.  Much  time  was  lost  this  morn- 
ing in  hunting  for  a  place  to  cross  the  river.  It  was 
finally  concluded  to  cross  a  mile  higher  up  and  we  pro- 
ceeded to  the  place.  While  going  up  we  saw  a  company 
of  horsemen  and  two  wagons  on  the  other  side  the  river, 
which  we  soon  recognized  to  be  our  brethren  from 
Winter  Quarters.  All  the  wagons  got  over  safely  and 
camped  on  the  hill,  having  traveled  two  miles.  The  com- 
pany is  a  part  of  the  old  police  going  to  meet  the  next 
company.  We  were  gladdened  with  the  news  they  bring 
from  Winter  Quarters. 

FRIDAY,  15xH.     The  brethren  of  the  police  started 


374  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

early  this  morning  to  go  on  and  meet  the  next  company. 
They  got  well  over  the  river  but  not  without  getting  into 
the  water  to  lift  at  the  wagon  wheels.  It  was  late  when 
we  started  on  account  of  some  oxen  being  'missing  and 
there  are  some  who  will  not  look  for  their  cattle  till  all 
the  rest  are  ready  to  start.  We  traveled  till  a  little  after 
three  and  camped  on  the  banks  of  the  Loup  Fork,  dis- 
tance twelve  and  three  quarters  miles,  day  warmer. 

SATURDAY,  16xH.  The  night  has  been  very  stormy, 
there  being  a  strong  wind,  rain,  and  very  cold.  We  made 
an  early  start  and  by  noon  arrived  at  the  mission  station. 
We  found  the  Pawnees  busy  gathering  corn,  probably 
nearly  a  thousand  of  men,  women  and  children.  They 
soon  began  to  come  to  the  wagons  and  their  chiefs  made 
inquiries  by  signs  about  the  Chirrarots  or  Sioux.  Some 
of  the  brethren  gave  them  to  understand  that  the  Sioux 
were  within  five  days  of  them.  The  chief  immediately 
gave  the  word  to  the  rest  and  in  half  an  hour  the  squaws 
had  loaded  their  corn  on  ponies  and  mules  and  then  be- 
gan to  march  towards  the  river.  They  show  great  fear 
of  the  Sioux.  They  were  very  anxious  to  have  us  camp 
with  them  tonight  but  we  kept  moving  on.  One  of  the 
wagons  was  upset  crossing  a  ravine.  Several  of  the 
brethren  traded  for  corn.  At  three  o'clock,  we  arrived 
and  turned  out  the  teams  on  Beaver  River,  having  trav- 
eled seventeen  and  a  qurter  miles.  Soon  after  we  ar- 
rived, some  of  the  Indians  came  up,  having  followed 
with  the  idea  of  trading.  They  have  conducted  them- 
selves peaceably  so  far,  but  they  are  not  to  be  trusted. 
In  consequence  of  their  following  us,  it  was  the  feeling 
of  most  of  the  brethren  to  go  on  a  few  miles  after  dark. 
At  5:45  we  started  on  and  traveled  till  8:30  being  six 


WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL.  375 

and  a  half  miles,  then  cumped  beside  the  lakes.  Evening 
very  fine  and  pleasant.  We  have  traveled  twenty-three 
and  three  quarters  miles  today. 

SUNDAY,  I?TH.  We  started  early  and  traveled  to 
Looking  Glass,  then  halted  for  breakfast.  Morning  wind) 
and  cold.  After  breakfast,  we  started  on  again  and  trav- 
eled till  four  o'clock,  distance  sixteen  and  a  quarter 
miles,  then  camped  at  a  point  of  timber  near  a  creek 
or  lake  and  not  far  from  the  Loup  Fork. 

MONDAY,  18xHv  Started  at  eight  o'clock  and  trav- 
eled to  Shell  Creek  distance  eighteen  and  three  quarters 
miles,  day  pleasant  but  cool. 

TUESDAY,  19rn.  The  night  was  excessively  cold  and 
this  morning  there  is  considerable  ice.  We  got  an  early 
start  and  traveled  to  where  the  road  leaves  the  river  and 
crosses  to  the  Horn.  At  this  place  there  is  a  liberty  pole 
set  up  by  some  of  the  brethren.  We  have  traveled  to- 
day twenty-three  and  a  quarter  miles  and  we  now  find 
that  the  grass  is  all  burned  off  ahead  of  us  as  far  as  we 
can  see,  probably  to  the  Elk  Horn.  We  are  cheered  by 
a  view  of  the  timber  on  that  stream. 

WEDNESDAY,  20TH.  We  started  early  and  found  the 
prairie  all  burned  off  to  the  Elk  Horn  except  in  small 
patches.  We  arrived  at  the  Horn  about  noon  and  soon 
after  commenced  crossing  where  Hosea  Stout  and  com- 
pany crossed.  The  water  was  nearly  three  feet  -deep  and 
the  bottom  somewhat  soft,  but  we  were  soon  all  over 
without  accident  except  John  Pack,  who  broke  his  wagon 
tongue.  We  then  had  to  make  a  road  through  high, 
strong  grass  for  upwards  of  half  a  mile  and  found  a 
very  bad  creek  or  slough  to  cross.  When  we  again  struck 
the  main  road,  we  found  it  good  and  started  for  the  Papea 


376  WILLIAM  CLAYTON'S  JOURNAL. 

where  we  arrived  soon  after  dark,  all  except  one  wagon 
which  was  left  a  mile  back.  The  evening-  cool  and  windy. 
THURSDAY,  21sx.  This  morning,  Brother  Empey, 
Lamb  and  myself  started  early  accompanied  by  six  horse- 
men and  arrived  in  Winter  Quarters  a  little  before  noon. 
I  found  my  family  all  well  except  Moroni  who  is  very 
sick  and  his  mother  is  somewhat  sick.  Their  circum- 
stances are  not  good,  but  in  other  respects  they  have 
been  prosperous  for  which  I  thank  my  God.  There  has 
been  much  sickness  here  and  many  deaths  during  the 
fall  and  many  are  now  suffering  for  lack  of  some  of  the 
comforts  of  life.  We  have  been  prosperous  on  our  jour- 
ney home  and  have  arrived  in  nine  weeks  and  three  days, 
including  a  week's  delay  waiting  for  the  twelve  and  kill- 
ing buffalo.  Our  health  has  been  remarkably  good,  but 
we  have  lacked  provisions,  many  of  us  having  nothing 
but  dry  buffalo  meat.  I  have  succeeded  in  measuring 
the  whole  distance  from  the  City  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake 
to  this  place,  except  a  few  miles  between  Horse  Creek 
and  the  A  La  Bonte  River  which  was  taken  from  the 
measurement  going  up.  I  find  the  whole  distance  to  be 
1032  miles  and  am  now  prepared  to  make  a  complete 
traveler's  guide  from  here  to  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  having 
been  careful  in  taking  the  distance  from  creek  to  creek, 
over  bluffs,  mountains,  etc.  It  has  required  much  time 
and  care  and  I  have  continually  labored  under  disad- 
vantages in  consequence  of  the  companies  feeling  no  in- 
terest in  it.  The  health  of  my  family  has  encouraged  me 
for  all  that  is  past  and  my  secret  gratitude  shall  ascend 
to  Heaven  for  the  unbounded  kindness  and  mercies  which 
the  Almighty  has  continually  poured  upon  them  in  my 
absence. 


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